Abstract: A sewn seam monitoring system for evaluating selected characteristics of seam formed from a plurality of fabric plies is disclosed comprising a vertically displaceable wheel for compressing and monitoring the thickness of a seam being sewn as the seam passes therebeneath and a transducer operatively connected to the wheel to measure vertical movement and generate a signal corresponding to the vertical displacement of the wheel. Computer means is electrically connected to the transducer for analyzing the seam being sewn to detect any defects therein sensed by the wheel when in compressing contact with the seam passing therebeneath.