System and method for not-sew manufacturing

Abstract

A method and system for making garments is disclosed that does not require sewing and is amenable to continuous manufacturing. This method and system makes possible a seamless garment finish that is more comfortable than a finish having seams and other imperfections due to the need to tuck/sew edges and joints. The disclosed seamless technology employs a thin film of adhesive that is preferably an ether-based polyurethane although other comparable adhesives are acceptable. This adhesive is prelaminated on at least one surface prior to lamination to another surface under conditions to control adhesion, stretch, breathability, and longevity of the garment. Lamination also allows for a seamless finish without fraying at the edges resulting in even displacement of pressure against the skin of the wearer for greater comfort. Disclosed seamless manufacturing techniques can be applied in an iterative fashion to manufacture inserts and support elements incorporated into laminated garments.

Description

CROSS-REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS

This application, claiming priority from the pending provisional U.S. Patent Application No. 60/412,674 filed on Sep. 19, 2002, is also a continuation-in-part of co-pending non-provisional U.S. patent application Ser. No. 10/001,286 filed on Nov. 30, 2001, which includes a claim of priority to the U.S. Provisional Application 60/330,119 filed on Oct. 16, 2001, U.S. patent application Ser. No. 09/569,004 filed on May 11, 2000 and Ser. No. 09/690,800 filed on Oct. 17, 2000, which in turn claims priority to the U.S. patent application Ser. No. 09/309,441 filed on May 11, 1999 and which issued as U.S. Pat. No. 6,132,288. All of these applications and patents are herein incorporated by reference in their entirety.

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates generally to manufacturing of garments via fabric lamination and an intermediate pre-laminating step and without requiring stitching. More specifically, the laminate fabric has particular utility in conjunction with women's undergarments, such as panties and brasssieres as well as undergarments in general by providing cost effecient construction of reinforced garments with desired texture, function and porosity.

NOTICE REGARDING COPYRIGHTED AND TRADEMARKED MATERIAL

A portion of the disclosure of this patent document contains material in the drawings subject to copyright protection. In addition, NOT-SEW™ SEAMLESS TECHNOLOGY, and “nothing smoother” are trademarks and slogans variously protected against use in a manner interfering with the business of the owner of said marks. The assignee of the marks has no objection to the facsimile reproduction by anyone of the patent document or the patent disclosure as it appears in the Patent and Trademark Office file or records, but otherwise reserves all right whatsoever including said copyrights.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

This application incorporates the U.S. patent application Ser. No. 10/001,286 filed on Nov. 30, 2001 by reference in its entirety for its teachings and disclosure. This application also incorporates the U.S. Provisional Patent Application No. 60/330,119 filed on Oct. 16, 2001 by reference in its entirety for its teachings and disclosure.

The use of laminates and other reinforcing materials to provide additional support or control at selective portions of an undergarment is generally well known. For example, Prunesti et al. U.S. Pat. No. 4,776,9116 and Bell et al. U.S. Pat. No. 4,701,964 disclose the utilization of a powdered adhesive material. The utilization of the silk screen for applying the powdered adhesive limits the manufacturing speed and overall efficiencies in the fabrication of such a laminate and the resultant undergarments.

The selective reinforcement of portions of a foundation garment by an intermediate plastic layer having adhesive qualities is also shown in Byrne U.S. Pat. No. 3,228,401. In that patent the plastic reinforcing material is applied to the fabric as a flowable paste that flows into the fabric to embed the individual threads forming the fabric. The flowing of the plastic into the fabric results in an undesired stiffening of the fabric, changing its hand, a technical term for the feel, softness and appeal of the fabric, resulting in irritation to the skin of the wearer. Similarly, U.S. Pat. Nos. 3,225,768 and 3,320,346 issued to Galitzki et al show a cloth and plastic laminate for a breast support such as a bathing suit with the elastomeric polyethylene polymer bonding two fabrics together with the plastic flowing within the interstices of the fabric; Likewise, Storti U.S. Pat. No. 3,327,707 uses an elastomeric adhesive to secure a stomach control panel to a foundation garment with the adhesive flowing into the girdle fabric to lock itself around the individual stretch yams.

The utilization of stiffening panels or other elements within undergarments or other apparel products is also generally known, for instance, U.S. Pat. No. 3,021,844, issued to Flagg et al., shows a brassiere reinforced in the breast cup area by a stiffening liner; U.S. Pat. No. 3,750,673 is similarly directed to a brassiere having a plurality of plastic stays positioned below the cup portion; U.S. Pat. No. 2,915,067 illustrates stiffening elements adhesively secured to the lower cup portion of a brassiere, or waist band of a girdle; U.S. Pat. No. 4,172,002 teaches laminating a patch of mold able fabric as a brassiere undercup support element.

Brassieres present additional manufacturing challenges due to issues related to comfort, appearance and marketing. Typically, brassieres may be sheer, lined, or padded for reasons of appearance and comfort. There are essentially two varieties of lined or padded bras—cut-and-sew, and molded. The cut-and-sew variety creates the shape of its cup and padding by assembling pre-cut components while molded brassieres are provided cups by heat or pressure based shaping of materials and pads. Sheer or unlined brassieres have no lining whatsoever often resulting in nipples showing through, a quality that is often regarded with disfavor by many, but not all, customers. Lined brassieres are both more comfortable than sheer brassieres and are better at concealing nipples while retaining a more realistic look when worn. Typically lined brassieres contain an additional layer that is one eighth to a quarter inch thick. Padded brassieres are heavier than lined brassieres and are often designed to enhance the apparent size of the bust or provide increased comfort to the wearer. Padded brassieres are almost always sewn with the undesirable feel of sewn edges and inserts.

With regard to brassieres, hanger appeal refers to the customer's first impression when they see the garment on the hanger at retail. In particular, a lightly lined brassiere has greater hanger appeal than an unlined version specifically because the unlined bras droop in the breast due to the lack of support, whereas the lined version is better at holding its shape. Thus, the consumer can immediately envision how it will look when worn without having to try it on. Thus, a manufacturing challenge is to make a lined brassiere without uncomfortable seams that is economical to make, perspiration resistant, does not discolor with use or light and still provide a good hand and hanger appeal. To this end lamination has been attempted unsuccessfully for both lined and padded brasseires.

U.S. Pat. No. 4,372,321 provides a brassiere having a unitary molded breast cup including an intermediate lower cup support panel adhesively bonded to the cup by a polyester hot melt adhesive typically applied through a screen that allows dotted coverage of the surface. Such an adhesive pattern makes the orientation of the adhesive a factor in controlling the overall laminate elongation characteristics. U.S. Pat. No. 3,317,645 discloses another method for forming a laminate or molded article such as brassiere cups with an intermediate plastic layer while U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,375,445 and 4,419,997 are directed to molded cup brassiere in which the cup is formed of a laminate consisting of two layers of stretchable material which include a non-stretchable crown portion, a substantially non-stretchable longitudinal cup portion and a unitary multi-directional stretchable periphery portion. These attempts fail at providing the lightness associated with lined brassieres while requiring the use of plastic cups and the like. It should also be noted that making large cup sizes is a problem with the molding technique described above. In general, it is not possible to economically make cup sizes larger than a size 38 due to problems associated with material thinning, fraying, and other quality issues.

Lining or padding is typically made from either fiber or foam that simply lack the stretch needed to bubble mold. Therefore, when making a padded, seamless bra, manufacturers have historically turned to form molding.

Form molding does not require much stretch at all; instead, male and female molds are heated and pressed together to essentially melt the foam or fiber padding into the desired shape. This method is however, not suitable for providing cups in a completed bra since the pads are molded first, and then assembled into the garment later. The reason for this limitation is that once the underwire has been placed into the bra, e.g., as channeling, it is almost impossible to place the bra within the male and female molds in a manner that will not damage the garment by placing stress on the underwire. The molds tend to press against the wires in a manner that unacceptably increases the likelihood of tearing the outer fabric.

Some problems in providing thinner and differential lamination to manufacture flexible laminated fabrics have been addressed. U.S. Pat. No. 3,383,263 is directed to a method for preparing a fabric laminate by laminating two fabrics by means of regularly recurring spaced geometric units of substantially dry adhesive film sandwiched between the outer fabric surfaces, with the result laminate having a raised pattern portion as determined by the adhesive pattern. U.S. Pat. No. 3,497,415 forms a laminate including fabrics of different elasticity secured together with a conventional adhesive, such that the laminate characteristics are primarily determined by the elasticity of the two fabric layers and U.S. Pat. No. 4,135,025 teaches varying the stretch characteristics of a fabric by selective insertion of different warp and weft threads into the fabric.

Similarly, aforementioned U.S. Pat. No. 5,447,462, incorporated herein in its entirety by reference, discloses fabric laminates formed such that both the characteristics and orientation of the adhesive layer, primarily a polyamide material, plays an important role in the laminate elongation characteristics. The adhesive comprises an integral adhesive, web which has differential elongation characteristics, characterized as offering different magnitudes of resistance to elongation when subjected to distortion in its different directions. Moreover, the adhesive web is confined to between the fabric layers without any appreciable penetration into the individual fabrics forming the laminate. The use of such an adhesive web is undesirable from the perspective of low-cost, high quality manufacturing due to the required handling during manufacturing, the desired stability of the adhesive upon repeated exposure to moisture and perspiration and introduction of pores without employing excessively thick adhesive layers.

In view of the above discussion it is clear that laminated brassieres are difficult to manufacture due to the various restrictions and desirable properties. For instance, this task is made difficult due to the presence of support wires in channeling in laminated brassieres that further requires that any cup molding step not stress or stretch the fabric excessively or damage the garment irreparably.

Therefore, it is desirable to improve manufacturing techniques and reduce cost for the mass production of laminated garments, typically including laminated support panels, e.g., panties and brassieres and other undergarments, with better adhesives, inserts and manufacturing procedures to resist damage due to garment wear and tear caused by exposure to moisture, heat and perspiration while providing superior feel and comfort to a person wearing the garment.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

A method and system for designing and making garments is disclosed without requiring sewing to either join or finish one or more edges. This method and system, referred to as Not-Sew™ technology makes possible several advantages properties. For instance, a seamless garment finish is more comfortable than a finish having seams and other imperfections due to the need to tuck/sew edges and joints. Seamless undergarments are less apparent under close fitting outer clothing, thus, creating a more pleasant appearance and greater aesthetic appeal. In addition, lamination allows for the edges of a garment to remain unsewn by providing a fraying resistant seamless finish due to the presence of the adhesive. This results in even displacement of pressure against the skin of the wearer and greater comfort than other seamless garments. Not-Sew™ manufacturing techniques are more efficient and less costly than traditional sewing techniques. The Not-Sew™ technology employs a film of adhesive that is preferably an ether-based polyurethane although other adhesives are acceptable. This adhesive is prelaminated and laminated under conditions to control adhesion, stretch, breathability, and longevity of the garment.

The disclosed invention further encompasses efficient manufacturing techniques for manufacturing of laminated garments. These techniques include continuous production from rolls, including “slit” roles, of material rather than a “sheeted” method using small pieces of fabric and material. Such techniques reduce or eliminate the time for repeated loading and unloading of sheets. Continuous production techniques include cutting of patterns to yield a greater number of garments and/or undergarments from a given amount of material by reducing wastage. In addition, the invention encompasses the manufacturing of brassieres with large cup sizes, such as cup sizes greater than 38 C, and even cup sizes as large as 44 DD. The larger cup sizes are believed to be made possible, without intending to be bound by any theory, by the providing of a lining that also acts as a heat buffer, extra support and an extra layer of adhesives by the method and system disclosed by the invention. The invention also encompasses brassieres with inserts to make push-up brassieres for an improved appearance.

The invention also encompasses universal tooling for manufacturing stabilizers with channeling with low tolerances. Pieces so manufactured may have sealing and other operations performed, if desired, in a single operation/machine stage.

The invention is further described in detail with the help of illustrative figures described briefly next.

DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

FIG. 1 illustrates a brassiere with an insert, shown in both inserted into a pocket and partially withdrawn positions, to provide an uplift in appearance;

FIG. 2 is an illustration of a pre-lamination machine with fabric and adhesive roles loaded thereon and suitable for continuous manufacturing that seamlessly incorporates the batch procedure;

FIG. 3 is a view of a cutting arrangement for preparing rolls of a desired width for prelamination;

FIG. 4 provides an illustrative view of a prelamination setup showing the adhesive and fabric feeds;

FIG. 5 illustrates an example universal tool for making center-front stabilizers;

FIG. 6 illustrates feeding of fabric and prelaminated fabric in a lamination machine suited for continuous production line with alignment of pieces with the aid of lasers in the course of a production line based manufacturing set-up;

FIG. 7 shows an illustrative pattern placement for reducing wastage by interleaving patterns in continuous manufacturing using rolls, including slit roles;

FIG. 8 shows a bubble molding apparatus and process for creating a cup in a brassiere; and

FIG. 9 shows an example brassier with a cup size of 44 double D manufactured in accordance with the invention.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

Lamination based manufacturing of garments although known in the art, is not as widely used as might be expected in view of the labor intensive nature of standard sewing techniques. One of the reasons is that the nature of the known adhesives was not suitable to provide long-lasting comfortable garments. Plastic does not allow for ready exchange of gases resulting in excessive buildup of moisture, odors and provides a less than desirable feel for the wearer. Other adhesives are susceptible to hydrolysis, particularly in undergarments, upon exposure to sweat, and other bodily fluids. Applicants have also determined that adhesives in the form of films are preferable to adhesives in the form of webs for laminating fabrics together. This is due to, in part, the improved consistency in adhesion following lamination made possible by films.

On the other hand, lamination makes possible easy construction of reinforced garments such that the reinforcement is in areas in need of reinforcement. Such reinforcement does not make the garment excessively bulky while providing desirable fabric feel close to the skin. The outer layer of an exemplary laminated garment can be selected for other properties such as removing moisture, appearance and the like without compromising on the feel of the garment or its durability. The glue that holds this all together is the adhesive used to laminate the plurality of layers together.

Aforementioned art describes various laminated garments and adhesives that are deficient in one or more respects. Applicants have discovered that use of thin films of adhesives, such as polyurethanes, is particularly suitable for manufacturing laminated garments. Preferably the thickness of the thin film is at least 0.5 mils and less than 20 mils. and ranges there between. More preferably the thickness of the film is from 0.5 mils to 2.0 mils. Even more preferably the thickness of the film is from 1.0 mils to 5.0 mils and most preferably the thickness of the film is from 1.0 mils to 1.5 mils. The use of a thin film enables pre-lamination, as described later, and adhesion while maintaining porosity, stretch, softness of hand, and avoiding imparting a bulky feel to the laminated garment.

Suitable films and webs of adhesives for practicing various embodiments of the invention exhibit high resistance to moisture and perspiration, in addition to possessing elastomeric and thermoplastic properties. An example film comprises ether-based polyurethane, and suitable lubricants, if any. The proportion of lubricants in such films is typically less than 1%, preferably less than 0.5% and even more preferably less than 0.1%. The preferred lubricant resists discoloration caused by exposure to UV or moisture/perspiration without intending to be bound by theory. An example film comprising a suitable lubricant is the “NOT-SEW ADHESIVE FILM” manufactured and supplied by JPS Elastomerics of Holyoke, Mass. (also supplied as item #1310). Additional exemplary films comprise treated ester-based polyurethane and suitable lubricants, if any. The films can be composites of various thermoplastic materials. Preferably the adhesive film comprises at least 50% ether-based polyurethane, even more preferably 90% ether-based polyurethane and most preferably at least 99% ether-based polyurethane.

Resistance to moisture, perspiration, and hydrolysis is desirable in laminated garments and particularly in undergarments. Hydrolytic stability testing of polyester-based polyurethane and polyether-based polyurethane adhesives revealed that polyether-based polyurethane is preferable to polyester-based polyurethane. Polyurethanes are a thermoplastic material that exhibit elastomeric properties although they do not have internal cross-links to any appreciable degree. This makes them suitable for use as adhesives in lamination, especially in view of the tackiness of ether-based polyurethanes at suitable temperatures below their melt points, or glass transition temperatures. Typical glass transition temperatures are greater than or about 200 oF and may often be as high as 375 oF. Of course, a consideration is the stability of the fabric being laminated at the temperatures for making the adhesive tacky or actually melt. Next, the resistance to moisture (and perspiration) of various polyurethanes is discussed to illustrate the need to shift to better adhesives in preparing laminated garments.

FIG. 1 illustrates insert 100 half inserted in pocket 105 in a brassiere manufactured by the lamination techniques of the invention. FIG. 1 also illustrates the brassiere with insert 110 fully placed in pocket 115. The pocket may be manufactured by various methods including those described next. A slit in a laminated sheet provides a pocket in an embodiment of the invention. In another preferred embodiment, another prelaminated sheet is laminated in area where the slit is made to provide the requisite edge finish and prevent fraying with age.

The Not-Sew™ technology enables construction of a variety of different garments, including complex garments requiring inserts, supports and wires, with a simple procedure that interfaces well with traditional manufacturing techniques. In order to attach two layers, one of the layers is prelaminated with the adhesive layer by first heating the adhesive to a softness sufficient for tacking it to the fabric layer. This tacking helps in ease of handling thin films since often the fabric layer itself is quite thin and the tacking step allows the adhesive and fabric to reinforce each other. The tacking temperature is preferably below the temperature for melting the adhesive, even more preferably at least 2 oF below the melt temperature for the adhesive film.

Following prelamination, the other layer is placed as desired on the prelaminated layer followed by application of additional heat and pressure for a defined amount of time, often termed cycle time to complete the lamination process. Naturally, the temperature for lamination is dependent on the particular adhesive film employed. Preferably, in the case of ether-based polyurethane films having thickness of less than 4 mils, the lamination temperature is about 300° F., more preferably the lamination temperature is about 350° F., and even more preferably the lamination temperature is about 375° F. These temperatures are accurate to about 20° F. It should be noted that the respective times for application of heat and pressure need not be the same. Consequently, use of a single cycle time in a described example embodiment of the invention is not intended to be a limitation on the scope of the invention. Different shaped panels can be placed in a desired manner to provide greater support or stability to particular areas. The entire garment can consist of as few as two layers.

FIG. 2 illustrates a pre-lamination machine in operation with re-winding machine 305 shown. FIG. 3 shows roll-slitter 310 for preparing rolls of a desired width. Pre-lamination machine of FIG. 2 also shows fabric 315 and adhesive 320 roles as they are fed into it.

Support for undergarments like brassieres includes padding, providing wires in sleeves known as channeling, contoured cups for imparting a desired shape and support, and the like. Providing wires for supporting breasts for increased comfort is done by inserting wires in a pair of sleeves to hold the wire securely placing it relative to the other wire accurately and firmly as well as provide padding of wire for comfort of the wearer. Naturally, this requires construction of sleeves, typically by stitching resulting in significant expense due to the need for accuracy and extensive positioning, sewing, and insertion of wires. The entire process is termed “channeling.” Similar operational details are encountered in making stiff collars for shirts and other garment shape imparting components.

In an example embodiment of the invention, two layers of non-stretch fabric, for instance taffeta, are laminated together to create a center-front-stabilizer channeling that prevents stretching of fabric between the cups in a brassier as a substitute for aforementioned channeled wires. FIG. 4 illustrates pre-lamination of channeling material with a heating source 505, which may be radio frequency (RF) as shown or other methods of providing heat, and input adhesive 610, and fabric 605 in an continuous process of pre-lamination to produce a pre-laminated channeling with an adhesive having desirable resistance to hydrolysis.

FIG. 5 illustrates a universal tool for further producing center-front stabilizers. Stops 705, for instance, prepared from foam, provide aids for positioning the center-front stabilizer assembly. Stops 705 are adjustable in many ways to allow production of various center-front stabilizers using the same tooling. For instance, pitch canal 710 allows adjustment of their relative pitch with a selected position maintained by pitch canal clamp 715. FIG. 5 also shows the universal tool with further adjustments including compensating seal pitch adjuster 810 held by diameter adjustment clamp 815 in diameter adjustment canal 820. Also shown for positioning the center of the center-front stabilizer is center-front spacing adjuster 825 held by center-front spacing clamp 805.

FIG. 5 also shows a center-front stabilizer held in the universal tool. Channeling 905, is held with center 915 of the center-front stabilizer and other end 910 of the center-front stabilizer stabilized with suitable stops, the entire assembly placed on bed 920 to carry out lamination operations and sealing of the ends of the channeling to hold the wires held therein. Advantageously the surface (not shown) that presses on the assembly also may carry one or more stops to support various parts of the center-front stabilizer.

FIG. 6 shows a lamination machine with top fabric roll 1005 and pre-laminated fabric roll 1010 being fed into the lamination machine. FIG. 6 further shows the use of lasers 1105 to help accurately, reproducibly and speedily place inserts, such as center-front stabilizers, on the spots 1110 formed by the lasers for continuous manufacturing. Following placement the lamination process produces a composite that may be cut to prepare a plurality of brassieres after adding one or more of buckles, clamps, hooks, and/or straps.

FIG. 8 illustrates an advantage of continuous production in reducing wastage. Traditional manufacturing by the sheet fed method typically prepares a composite sheet. Continuous manufacturing allows placement of interleaved brassiere blanks 1210 as shown with reduced wastage due to the eventual recovery of blanks that fall outside the boundaries of the sheet in the next cycle of lamination. The interleaved pattern may be varied, and need not be periodic only (quasi-crystalline placement patterns are also intended to be included). A typical production procedure allows side feeding of material corresponding to the size of the lamination platten in a cycle rather than the traditional front-loading of individual sheets. Thus, rolls and slit rolls of material are advantageously combined with the need to place inserts and other structures that preclude the use of rollers for providing the lamination heat and pressure.

FIG. 6 also shows a typical lamination machine with its platten that may be raised or lowered. FIG. 6 further illustrates an example feeding mechanism in a lamination machine. Shown is pneumatic piston drive 1505 for pulling a specified length of material for lamination. The lamination machine in FIG. 6, further shows feed clamp 1605 for holding the material being pulled in by the pneumatic piston drive 1505. Feed clamp 1605 for holding the material is, in turn, controlled and driven by one or more synchronized pneumatic feed clamp pistons 1610. In addition, initial loading/release toggle 1615 facilitates the start or stopping of a production run.

Many lining patterns are possible including those included in the patent applications incorporated by reference herein. These lining patterns do more than merely add to comfort, they actually provide support and allow the manufacturing of larger cup sizes which had not been commercially possible for laminated brassiers.

FIG. 8 illustrates some steps in the bubble molding process for creating a cup, including large cup sizes, in a brassiere by application of heat and pressure. Bubble molding is a method typically used for unlined bras and is ideal for what is known as “post molding.” Post molding is basically molding a completed bra as the final stage of its production, when it has been fully assembled. A typical bubble molding machine 1700 has a top plate 1705 and bottom plate 1710 (these hold the flat bra in place clamped between the top plate 1705 and bottom plate 1710) with matching holes 1715, a “bullet” shaped heated mold 1720, driven, e.g. via rod 1725, that comes down into the hole 1715—stretching the fabric and heating the inner cup, while a heated can 1730 below the hole, into which the bullet 1720 is pressed heats the outer layer of the cup being bubble molded as well. To ensure a firm grip and minimal, if any damage to the brassiere, the inside surfaces 1735 of the top plate 1705 and bottom plate 1710 are padded. Moreover, the top and bottom plates are aligned and guided through any one of many possible mechanisms such as the depicted pins 1740. Alternative embodiments may include lasers beams, precision machined gears and other mechanisms known in the art to ensure proper alignment between the top plate 1705 and bottom plate 1710, along with a workpiece clamped between them.

As previously mentioned, bubble molding has not worked well with lined or padded bras. The reason for this is that bubble molding requires a great deal of stretch and give from the fabrics used, and whereas it is easy enough to find fabrics that will do this, it is not so easy to find lining or padding that will fit this criteria.

The use of a woven moldable stretch fabric allows production of a lined bra using the bubble molding method. A woven spacer fabric that, although a moldable stretch fabric, also has the thickness, and stiffness needed to meet the definition of a lined bra. Accordingly, the lining is first pre-laminated on one side with the adhesive film, cut to the desired cup shape, placed according to the garment's pattern within the “sandwich.” Since the plates on a bubble-molding machine are padded and not heated, there is no stress on the fabric around the underwires, if any, that are provided for supporting breasts encased in the cups when the brassier is being worn.

In addition, the invention encompasses the manufacturing of brassieres with large cup sizes, such as cup sizes greater than 38 C, and even cup sizes as large as 44 DD. The larger cup sizes are believed to be made possible, without intending to be bound by any theory, by the providing of a lining that also acts as a heat buffer, extra support and an extra layer of adhesive(s) by the method and system disclosed by the invention. The invention also encompasses brassieres with inserts to make push-up brassieres for an improved appearance. Furthermore, it should be noted that the bubble molding apparatus and method disclosed herein admits of various variations including temperature, number of molds, making of intermediate sized cups and adding material/adhesives in the course of making larger cups, providing inserts, and other push-up elements to the brassiere, and the like.

FIG. 9 illustrates an example lined brassiere with bubble molded cups of size 44 DD (pronounced as double D), the brassier having a desired soft feeling and hanger appeal, adequate support as well as unsewn edges 1805 that resist fraying.

Although the invention can be utilized to make a variety of different garments of greater or lesser complexity, the general method and applications remain the same. That is, two or more layers of fabrics (or other components, such as underwires) are laminated together with layer(s) of adhesive in between, using heat and pressure to soften the adhesive and press it into the fibers of the material. Different shaped panels can be pre-cut and positioned to provide greater support or stability to needed areas, or the entire garment may simply consist of two or more layers which are first laminated and then cut to the desired shape.

At this point, garments may be modified further by molding (such as with bra cups), by using ultrasonic or radio-frequency seals (such as for attaching straps), or even by sewing (for joining ends).

Fabrics are selected that a) have two-way stretch, b) are moldable, c) are not treated with dyes or softeners that will inhibit the adhesive, and d) fabrics to be laminated together have like physical properties compatible with being laminated together. The ‘like physical properties’ is not a limitation on the scope of the invention but merely a detail in this embodiment so that when the fabrics are stretched, molded, etc., they will act together and not put unnecessary strain on the adhesive.

Tests are then run to determine the optimum thickness and melt-point of the film, in order to create the best bond and least strain (from heat of the laminating process) for said fabric(s). The main components of the N-S bra are the inner and outer layers of fabric; these act as a kind of sandwich for the majority of the other components (such as underwires, channeling, padding, stabilizing, and support fabrics, etc.). The inner side of one of these fabrics, as well as one side of all components to be placed within the “sandwich, is pre-laminated with the desired adhesive.”

Pre-lamination is a process whereby the N-S film adhesive, typically an ether-based polyurethane film, preferably 1 to 1.5 mils (thousandths of an inch) thick is tacked to the fabrics to be used. The tacking is accomplished by using a lower temperature and less pressure than that of the actual laminating to avoid loss of the adhesive in the fibers of the fabric while allowing for easier handling of both adhesive and fabrics. Many fabrics are thin and susceptible to damage by excessive heat. Thus, tacking a thin adhesive film results in the combination being stronger and easier to handle in addition to providing better control over the subsequent lamination process itself. In this regard it should be noted that often adhesives lack a well defined melting point since they are similar to glasses and tend to soften progressively with increasing temperature. Consequently, the temperature for pre-laminating can be advantageously empirically determined to suit a particular fabric and production setup within the scope of the invention.

With pre-lamination completed, any components (pads, stabilizers, channeling) to be placed within the “sandwich” are die-cut or slit to the proper size/shape. In the case of channeling, underwires are inserted into the channels and sealed. The outer fabrics (both the pre-laminated and the non-laminated) are often cut into sheets corresponding in size to the bra patterns (three or four or even more can be cut from a single sheet). The bottom sheet (pre-laminated) is placed (adhesive side up) on the bed of the laminating press (a pressurized press with both top and bottom heated plates) using a system of pins and holes, which have been pre-located on the comers of the sheets. Using lasers to locate the proper placement, the internal components are placed upon the sheet (adhesive side up as well).

The top sheet is placed on top using the same system of pins and holes. The “sandwich” is then laminated corresponding to the temperature, cycle-time, and pressure designated by the previous testing. Using a “bubble molding” machine, the cups of the bra are molded to the proper circumference to complete the manufacturing process.

The invention provides a practical and cost effective method and system to manufacture laminated garments with a comfortable seamless finish and reduced visibility under tight-fitting clothing. The unfinished edges do not exhibit fraying resulting in even displacement of pressure against the skin of the wearer and even greater comfort than other seamless garments. Moreover, the disclosed manufacturing techniques are more efficient and less costly than traditional sewing techniques. In addition, use of sewing to add loops, belts, straps and other additions to a laminated garment or portion thereof prepared in accordance with the invention allows the invention to synergistically extend the range of methods and technologies for manufacturing garments.

Advantageously, an adhesive made in the form of a film provides more consistent physical properties than webs, powders, or liquid adhesives. This, naturally, is of significance in imparting resistance to delamination and fraying, the peeling apart of laminated surfaces. Moreover, an adhesive made from ether-based polyurethane (versus the known untreated ester-based polyurethane resins) is superior to previously employed adhesives. The disclosed cycle-time, temperature and pressure engineered processes (both adhesive and machinery) optimize adhesion, stretch, breathability, and longevity of garment manufactured in accordance therewith.

The disclosed method and system teach producing garments without, or with reduced amounts of, traditional sewing techniques. In lieu of sewing, fabrics are joined using a laminating process that is superior due to its unique adhesive and manufacturing process. It is particularly applicable to the manufacturing of intimate apparel (bras, panties), shapewear, and activewear, which because of their complex construction—that often need to withstand much more stretch than other garments—typically requires a great deal of bulky and expensive stitching.

Alternative means for placing or aligning fabrics, the order of cutting the fabrics and other similar details are not intended to be limiting in the described embodiments that are primarily intended to be illustrative.

It will be appreciated that the various features described herein may be used singly or in any combination thereof. Thus, the present invention is not limited to only the embodiments specifically described herein. While the foregoing description and drawings represent a preferred embodiment of the present invention, it will be understood that various additions, modifications, and substitutions may be made therein without departing from the spirit and scope of the present invention as defined in the accompanying claims. In particular, it will be clear to those skilled in the art that the present invention may be embodied in other specific forms, structures, and arrangements, and with other elements, and components, without departing from the spirit or essential characteristics thereof. One skilled in the art will appreciate that the invention may be used with many modifications of structure, arrangement, and components and otherwise, used in the practice of the invention, which are particularly adapted to specific environments and operative requirements without departing from the principles of the present invention. The presently disclosed embodiment is therefore to be considered in all respects as illustrative and not restrictive, the scope of the invention being indicated by the appended claims, and not limited to the foregoing description.

Claims

1. A fabric laminate comprising at least a first fabric, a second fabric and a heat sensitive adhesive layer; the adhesive layer pre-laminated on the first fabric in the form of a film tacked on the first fabric by application of pressure and temperature less than that required for lamination followed by placement of the adhesive layer between opposed surfaces of the first and second fabrics for adhesively securing said first and second fabrics together along their opposed surfaces in a lamination step by positioning the second fabric on the pre-laminated first fabric and applying sufficient pressure and temperature.

2. A method of manufacturing the laminated garment of claim 1, the method comprising the steps of:

determining a melt temperature of the adhesive layer;

selecting a tacking temperature below the melt temperature of the adhesive layer;

placing the adhesive layer on the first fabric layer;

applying a tacking pressure and the tacking temperature to the adhesive layer and the first fabric layer to generate a first prelaminated fabric layer;

placing the first prelaminated fabric layer against the second fabric layer sandwiching the adhesive layer between the first fabric layer and the second fabric layer;

applying a lamination pressure for a pressure cycle time to the sandwich;

applying a lamination temperature for a temperature cycle time to the sandwich such that the lamination temperature is not less than the melt temperature of the adhesive layer; and

shaping the laminated garment.

3. A method for manufacturing a laminated garment of claim 2 further including the step of diecutting the laminated sandwich to shape the laminated garment.

4. A method for manufacturing a laminated garment of claim 3 further including the step of finishing the edges following the step of diecutting with a hot surface to contain fraying fibers generated by the diecutting step.

5. A method of molding a cup in the laminated garment of claim 1, the method comprising the steps of:

placing a woven moldable stretch fabric between a prelaminated first fabric, the prelaminated first fabric having tacked on a first fabric a layer of adhesive, and a second fabric to create a pre-bubble mold assembly;

laminating the pre-bubble mold assembly by applying sufficient pressure and temperature for a cycle time;

placing the laminated pre-bubble mold assembly in a bubble molding assembly between padded holding first and second plates; and

applying heat in a bin connected to the first plate via a first hole; and applying heat and pressure via a plunger pressed through an opening aligned with a second hole in the second plate that is aligned with the first hole.

6. The method of molding a cup in a laminated garment of claim 5 further comprising the step of selecting a plunger shape corresponding to a desired size and shape for the cup.

7. The method of molding a cup in a laminated garment of claim 5 wherein the plunger creates a cup size selected from greater than a C size, and at least a DD size.

8. The method of molding a cup in a laminated garment of claim 5 further comprising shaping, prior to bubble molding, the woven moldable stretch fabric to have an embossed trim just inside a bustline corresponding to the cup, with an ornamentally shaped die, to form a slot, or to form a slot to receive a wire insert adjacent to the woven moldable stretch fabric.

9. The method of molding a cup in a laminated garment of claim 8 wherein the die is scalloped.

10. The method of molding a cup in a laminated garment of claim 8 wherein the woven moldable stretch fabric is a spacer fabric shaped to adjacently receive a center-front stabilizer channeling.

11. A brassiere for providing support to at least one breast of a wearer, the brassier comprising:

at least two layers that are laminated together by an adhesive layer between them by application of heat and pressure;

a third layer of woven stretch fabric, having an adhesive layer prelaminated thereon, sandwiched between the at least two layers;

at least one cup formed by a bubble molding process such that the at least two layers and the third layer in the area suitable for bubble molding are shaped into a cup having a desired size by the application of pressure; and

at least one unsewn edge finished by lamination only.

12. The brassiere of claim 11 further having at least one strap cushioned by laminating a woven, stretch fabric between the at least two layers.

13. The brassiere of claim 11 wherein the adhesive layer is applied to one of the at least two layers in a prelaminating step at a temperature and pressure sufficient to make the adhesive layer tacky without melting followed by contacting another layer of the at least two layers to the prelaminated layer and laminating at sufficient temperature and pressure to melt the adhesive into the fibers of the at least two layers.

14. The brassier of claim 11 further including at least one wire in association with the at least one cup.

15. An insert for providing support to the brassiere of claim 11 by providing support and definition to at least two cups placed in the brassiere, the insert comprising:

a bottom layer that is initially prelaminated with an adhesive layer by contacting them at a temperature and pressure that is not sufficient to completely melt the adhesive;

a set of precisely placed wire inserts to define the separation between the cups in a brassiere;

a top layer, made from a stretch resistant fabric, placed on the prelaminated side of the bottom layer so as to sandwich the wire inserts between the top and the bottom layers following lamination of the top and bottom layers by application of a pressure and temperature sufficient to melt the adhesive for a prescribed cycle time; and

a shape formed by diecutting the laminated top and bottom layers to yield the insert having two appropriately spaced apart wires.

16. A method for continuous manufacturing of garments comprising inserts, the method comprising the steps of:

placing at least one insert on a section of material;

sandwiching the at least one insert prior to lamination;

drawing a length of material including the section of material into a lamination machine;

laminating the at least one insert by application of pressure and temperature; and

removing laminated material from the lamination machine.

17. The method of claim 16 wherein the step of placing the at least one insert is carried out with a placing aid.

18. The method of claim 17 wherein the first placing aid is one or more of a spot formed by at least one focused light source, at least one stop, and a spot formed by at least one laser.

19. A method for continuous manufacturing of inserts, including inserts for the method of claim 16, comprising insert components, the method comprising the steps of:

setting a universal tool to a set of specifications including desired curvature and spacing

placing at least one insert component with the aid of a first placing aid;

placing another insert component overlapping the at least one insert component

with the aid of a second placing aid;

laminating the at least one insert component to the another insert component by application of pressure and temperature; and

removing a laminated insert from the lamination machine.

20. The method of claim 19 wherein the first placing aid is one or more of a spot formed by at least one focused light source, at least one stop, and a spot formed by at least one laser.