BRIEF SUMMARY OF INVENTION The question is how can you make an object float above right under the ceiling, anywhere in the room space, for about 40 feet movement and 360°, without damaging/drilling the ceiling in more than 1 small point?
My product is loved and needed by all smokers!
My product is needed in many other places like restaurants, chemistry laboratories, manufacturers which melts and produce toxic/bad smelling compounds.
AirChaser it's the new replacement to the weld smoke also called ‘fume extractor’, and his brother called ‘industrial vacuum’.
I needed this for my room, right now i have only the prototype, which looks kinda big because is only a prototype made home. I imagine this made by a good manufacturer and taken to another level where is smooth, a lot smaller, mostly black and with very futuristic look and control.
All my friends wants to get one piece. Basically no damage to the ceiling and ventilation ‘kitchen-hood like’ extremely lightweight, zero noise alien-floating toy.
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- My product is needed and is a totally NEW CONCEPT IN LIGHTING ALSO. Only the rods mechanism of function explains it (hanging, expansion and attachment mechanisms); instead of the hose and the umbrella, a hidden wire with a light at the end (any kind of electric lighting) can be chosen, same with HEATING and FILMING (registering video, most commonly used in security needs).
- When in Closed-Mode the whole device stays at <4 inches from the ceiling; the small size vent (for home personal use).
- The soft end rods (points which are touching/pushing on ceiling) can be replaced (included in the same package will be advised) with a button-actioned semi-stationary wheel, when the AirChaser is needed to be in constant reposition during the day.
- The vent hose it's air-sealed magnetic-connection (easy detachable) to the ceiling, other way longer hose is needed for window emission.
Emanuel Serban
425 300 7277; redanoldepo@yahoo.com
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS FIG. 1—Shape-example of the finished product.
FIG. 2—Shape-example of the finished product.
FIG. 3—Shape-example of the finished product.
FIG. 4—Shape-example of the finished product.
FIG. 5—Shape-example of the finished product.
FIG. 6—Shows with green arrows the only part which attaches to the ceiling (2 screws), and with red arrow ‘C’ marked shows the hole in which the screw of the ‘Lock Bar’ goes into (FIG. 14)
FIG. 7—Views of the Hole U Shaped Connector Bracket.
FIG. 8—Views of the Hole U Shaped Connector Bracket.
FIG. 9—Anti-brushing rubber square covers, which the screws pinch thru, for the sealing-attachment.
FIG. 10—Views of the Hole “U” Shaped Connector Bracket.
FIG. 11—Shows how i marked the ceiling exactly on the stud area of my room with the help of the ‘Stud Detector’ and where the screws goes in.
FIG. 12—Bar-Child Proof Sliding Door Lock Bar, already sold on the market as a whole piece.
FIG. 13—Closer view of the ‘Door Lock Bar’.
FIG. 14—Closer view of the ‘Door Lock Bar’; to the point where it connects with the ‘Hole U Shaped Connector Bracket’ (FIG. 6).
FIG. 15—Shows that the ‘Sliding Door Lock Bar’ part which attaches to ‘Hole U Shaped Connector Bracket’ moves at 210 degrees angle.
FIG. 16—Shows that the ‘Sliding Door Lock Bar’ part which attaches to ‘Hole U Shaped Connector Bracket’ moves at 210 degrees angle.
FIG. 17—FIG. 17,18, 19 All ‘B’ marked, shows how i connected a second Stainless Steel Tube to make the ‘Door Securyty Bar’ longer. A small update the manufacturer gonna understand easily, this does not affect the system though, but the final product will be only one tube, explained and shown in (FIG. 19) with red color.
FIG. 18—Closer image for the connection marked with ‘B’. This does not really matters; this is only a simple extention of a metal tube.
FIG. 19—Closer image for the connection marked with ‘B’. This does not really matters; this is only a simple extention of a metal tube.
FIG. 20—This piece comes attached to the end of the first extensible stick ‘Door Securyty Bar’, for the second extensible stick go thru the ‘Worm gear hose’(FIG. 25,26,29).
FIG. 21—Views of the ‘Worm gear hose’.
FIG. 22—Inserted 1 screw thru the ‘Worm gear hose’.
FIG. 23—Inserted 1 screw thru the ‘Worm gear hose’.
FIG. 24—Attached the ‘Worm gear hose’ to the end of the first extensible stick ‘Door Securyty Bar’.
FIG. 25—Make a round hole in the middle of an umbrella's material without destroying the umbrella's mechanism.
FIG. 26—Attach nylon taffeta material, tube-shape, to the hole of the umbrella.
FIG. 27—Shows where the force it's pressed on.
FIG. 28—Shows where the force it's pressed on; larger picture.
FIG. 29—Telescopic Aluminum Extension Pole, already sold on the market as a whole piece. (FIG. 26,27,28)
FIG. 30—Shows the alternative each costumer has, to evacuate the air to the ceiling(FIG. 30,31,60)
FIG. 31—Shows the alternative each costumer has, to evacuate the air to the ceiling(FIG. 30,31,60)
FIG. 32—Shows where the force it's pressed on. Also shows that i use a simple wood box for the counterbalance pushing against the ceiling from the first stick (FIG. 12,27). Final model will not be a wood box of course, but an aluminum ‘Door Stopper’ covered with rubber for the ceiling protection.
FIG. 33—Shows how i cutted an umbrella's canopy without damaging the umbrella and attached a nylon taffeta tube.
FIG. 34—Shows with letter ‘D’ where the connection attaches with the can termination marked nr. 1 (FIG. 38,44,45)
FIG. 35—I sewed the nylon taffeta to the umbrella before adding the Heat-Resistant red silicone over, but this entire process does not matter, as the attachment of the ‘nylon taffeta tube’ will not go like this in the real life final product, this is a home made attachment.
FIG. 36—I took a plastic, classic, supplement can and cut its ages off in straight circle shape, to attach uniform on the ‘Rubber-wrap-bands’ (FIG. 36,37,38,43).
FIG. 37—I took a plastic, classic, supplement can and cut its ages off in straight circle shape, to attach uniform on the ‘Rubber-wrap-bands’ (FIG. 36,37,38,43).
FIG. 38—Shows which surface of the can attaches on which: ‘D’ attaches on nr. 1 (FIG. 45), nr. 2 stops by the rubber bands (FIG. 42,43)
FIG. 39—Closer image of the can.
FIG. 40—Shows how the ‘can’ goes smooth in the Acrylic-tube.
FIG. 41—Shows how the ‘can’ goes smooth in the Acrylic-tube. ‘E’ letter shows where it connects with the PVC hose along the Telescopic Aluminum Extension Pole termination ‘F’ (FIG. 55,29)
FIG. 42—Shows how the Acrylic-tube is covered with Rubber-wrap-bands to form a stopper for the cup.
FIG. 43—Shows how the cup is stopped by the Rubber-wrap-band.
FIG. 44—Shows how the cup is stopped by the Rubber-wrap-band.
FIG. 45—Shows how the umbrella hangs on by the nylon taffeta tube which is glued on the cup tip.
FIG. 46—Shows how all 3 pieces are bonded to each other and how it looks.
FIG. 47—Shows how all 3 pieces are bonded to each other and how it looks.
FIG. 48—Shows how all 3 pieces are bonded to each other and how it looks.
FIG. 49—Shows how to close the umbrella and put in back in the acrylic-tube.
FIG. 50—Shows how to close the umbrella and put in back in the acrylic-tube.
FIG. 51—Shows how to close the umbrella and put in back in the acrylic-tube.
FIG. 52—Shows how to close the umbrella and put in back in the acrylic-tube.
FIG. 53—Shows how to close the umbrella and put in back in the acrylic-tube.
FIG. 54—Shows how to close the umbrella and put in back in the acrylic-tube.
FIG. 55—Shows around where ‘E’ and ‘F’ part meets (FIG. 29,41)
FIG. 56—Dwv Test Cap which covers the termination of the tube after each use.
FIG. 57—Dwv Test Cap which covers the termination of the tube after each use.
FIG. 58—Shows about where to cut the shaft/pole of the umbrella once is closed.
FIG. 59—The shaft/pole of the umbrella its extensible in the final product.
FIG. 60—Examples of Dryer Hose Quick-Connect models; i prefer the magnetic one for my product use.
