Abstract: A single formula, mild permanent wave reducing composition and method of permanently waving or reshaping human hair that provides a strong, long lasting curl and leaves the hair soft while minimizing further damage to already damaged hair. The composition contains a cysteamine reducing agent compound selected from the group consisting of cysteamine, a cysteamine salt, and mixtures thereof. The cysteamine compound should be present in an amount of about 7.8% to about 9.0% by weight; and sufficient additional alkali, if necessary, to bring the pH of the composition to about 7.8 to about 8.5. Optionally, a hair softening and/or moisturizing agent, such as glycerine is included in the composition in an amount of about 0.1% to about 15% by weight of the composition.

Abstract: A process for relaxing hair in which the hair fibers undergo minimal swelling is provided, using a composition that decreases the swelling of hair fibers. Use of the composition or process decreases hair fiber swelling during the relaxing process, thereby decreasing structural damage to the hair while increasing hair fiber strength.

Abstract: Simultaneous permanent waving and dyeing of hair fibers is attained by incorporating a silk amino acid and a water soluble or emulsifiable silicone based compound in the permanent waving lotion and intermixing the dyestuff with the oxidizing or neutralizing composition. Preferably, the combined dyeing and neutralizing composition is adjusted to have a pH ranging between about 7 and 9. In this preferred embodiment, the hair is warmed after receiving the combined dyeing and neutralizing composition with said composition preferably being processed on the hair at a temperature ranging between 40.degree. C. and 65.degree. C. In addition, further enhanced coloring and permanent waving is attained by incorporating a lipotropic material into the dye additive composition.

Abstract: A process for permanent waving of hair by a reaction in which cystine bridges are reduced to cysteine, the hair reshaped, and the reaction reversed. The improvement in the process resides in the step of reversing the reaction by applying to hair a composition which includes a vinyl functional silicone, a solvent, and a free radical photoinitiator. The free radical photoinitiator is a compound which undergoes intramolecular photocleavage and contains the acetophenone chromophore, such as dimethoxyphenylacetophenone; diethoxyacetophenone; hydroxydimethylacetophenone; 1-benzoylcyclohexanol; 1-phenyl-1,2-propanedione-2-O-benzoyl oxime; and 2-hydroxy-2-methyl-1-phenylpropan-1-one. Both cyclic and linear vinyl functional silicones can be employed. Permanent hair waving neutralizer compositions are also described.

Abstract: Hair is waved or straightened by maintaining it in tightly curled or in straightened configuration in contact with an aqueous waving lotion containing sulfite, bisulfite, or hydrosulfite together with a water-soluble mercaptan, at a molar ratio of 5:1 to 1:7.5, rebuilding with an aqueous lotion at pH 7 to 12 free from cross-linking, oxidizing, or reducing agents, and subsequently applying a neutralizer solution. Minimal damage to the hair results from use of the specified molar ratio. When waving hair, an optional additional step between cross-linking and neutralizing comprises maintaining the rebuilt hair in stress-free condition in contact with the ambient atmosphere to permit the curled hair to relax to the desired extent.

Abstract: A hair relaxer and post-relaxer hair brightener system and method is disclosed which overcomes the undesirable alteration of the natural tone of hair, especially of naturally gray hair, by highly-alkaline hair-relaxing systems. The natural tone of such alkali-relaxed hair is desirably brightened, enhanced and restored in a hair brightening step by certain disclosed post-relaxer aqueous hair brightener compositions which contain an active hair brightening agent. In a particularly preferred embodiment, the hair brightening agent comprises a relatively low active concentration of hydrogen peroxide.

Abstract: A process for permanent waving of hair by a reaction in which cystine bridges are reduced to cysteine, the hair reshaped, and the reaction reversed. The improvement in the process resides in the step of reversing the reaction by applying to hair a composition which includes a vinyl functional silicone, a solvent, and a catalyst. The catalyst is either a carboxylic acid salt of a metal or a metal carbonyl compound. Both cyclic and linear vinyl functional silicones can be employed. Permanent hair waving neutralizer compositions are also described.

Abstract: A mild permanent waving process for human hair including the steps of applying a reducing composition containing at least one thio compound, subsequently pre-fixing with a composition containing at least one dithio compound without previous rinsing, and finally fixing with a composition containing an oxidant, especially hydrogen peroxide, in a low concentration.

Abstract: A process for permanent waving of hair by a reaction in which cystine bridges are reduced to cysteine, the hair reshaped, and the reaction reversed. The improvement in the process resides in the step of reversing the reaction by applying to hair a composition which includes a vinyl functional silicone, a carrier fluid, and an oxidizing agent such as hydrogen peroxide. Permanent hair waving neutralizer compositions are also described.

Abstract: A method of treating hair that has been damaged and/or dulled as a result of an alkaline hair treatment including contacting the hair with a solution of weak acid having a pH in the range of about 2.0 to about 5.0, preferably about 2.0 to about 3.8 and having at least 0.75 milliequivalent of free acid per milliliter of solution, to restore natural shine to the dulled hair and to repair uplifted cuticles, if any, that have resulted from the alkaline hair treatment.

Abstract: A cosmetic reducing composition for use in the permanent deformation of hair contains, as a reducing agent, a combination of an ester of thioglycolic acid and an N-(C.sub.2 -C.sub.4) acyl cysteamine, the pH of the composition being lower than 8. This composition is employed in a process for waving the hair or straightening the hair.

Abstract: A method for determining the effectiveness of hair relaxer treatments immediately after treatment, and a method for determining the amount of curl reversion at specified time periods after relaxer treatment.

Abstract: Treatment of human or animal hair for purposes of waving, straightening or softening using compositions containing thioglycolic acid compounds commonly leave an undesirable odor due to the presence of residual trace amounts of the thio compound. The compositions of the present invention contain siliceous crystalline molecular sieves either as the sole active ingredient or in combination with hair conditioners. When applied to hair containing conventional, acid or soft wave hair perming solutions, the molecular sieve constituent effectively adsorbs and holds the residual odor-causing thioglycolic acid compound so that its odor is reduced to below its olfactory detection level threshold.

Abstract: A new and improved cysteinamide reducing agent, such as cysteinamide hydrochloride, capable of breaking sulfur to sulfur cystine bonds in human hair for use in permanent wave and hair straightening compositions, to provide additional set retention in hair sprays, styling aids, mousse and hair bodifying compositions, and to provide the hair with additional body when incorporated into shampoos, conditioners and conditioning shampoo compositions. In one embodiment, the cysteinamide reducing agent compounds are used for the reducing agent in permanent waving of human hair in the form of a mild alkaline permanent wave reducing composition and in a method of permanently waving or reshaping human hair that provides a strong, long lasting curl.

Abstract: This invention relates to a method of straightening, texturing and strengthening hair undergoing an alkaline straightening procedure and to nonacidic aqueous hair texturing and strengthening compositions for use in conjunction therewith. The texturing and strengthening compositions have a pH value from at least 8 to about 11 containing at least one water-dispersible hair texturing and strengthening agent including a quarternary nitrogen atom with at least one aliphatic alkyl group directly or indirectly bonded to the quarternary nitrogen atom, the aliphatic alkyl group having from about 3 to about 22 carbon atoms. Methods for applying the compositions in post-straightening and pre-straightening procedures are disclosed.

Abstract: A heat generating hair permanent composition is disclosed. The composition has a pH of about 6.8 to 10. It is the reaction product of a mixture of about 6 to 10 parts of an aqueous hair reducing composition containing from 5 to 20 weight percent reducing agent with about 0.5 to 3 parts of an aqueous oxidizing solution which contains 1 to 6 weight percent hydrogen peroxide.

Abstract: Cosmetic compositions for treating the hair, nails and skin are described which contain, in a solvent medium, at least one amphoteric polymer of betainised dialkylaminoalkyl (meth)acrylate or dialkylaminoalkyl(meth)acrylamide, containing at least units of the formula: ##STR1## in which R.sub.1 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, R.sub.2 denotes an alkylene group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Y denotes O or NH and R.sub.3 and R.sub.4 independently of one another denote hydrogen or alkyl having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and at least one cationic derivative.

Abstract: A method of obtaining a hair damage rating is obtained by determining the change in hair structure, such as measuring the amount of free sulfhydryl groups after hair treatment or exposure to agents, comparing this with a number of such groups before treatment to obtain a percentage change, establishing a rating scale having a range of percentage change values, and selecting the hair damage factor a number corresponding to the determined percentage change after treatment.

Abstract: An end wrap comprising a substrate containing hair-waving chemicals. Also disclosed is a method for waving hair comprising applying end wraps having hair-waving chemicals to hair sections, activating the end wraps and dissolving the end wraps. A kit for use in the method is included.

Abstract: A method and apparatus for the protection of hair from permanent wave chemicals is disclosed. To accomplish protection, paper sheets are coated with protein. The protein is applied in an amount efficient to enable protein delivery from the sheets to the hair during the permanent wave process. Preferably, a composition containing about 45-65% by weight protein is applied to the sheets so that each sheet is about 20-60% by weight protein. The protein chemically protects the hair from structural damage during the permanent wave process in a highly effective manner.

Abstract: Cosmetic compositions for treating the hair, nails and skin are described which contain, in a solvent medium, at least one amphoteric polymer of betainised dialkylaminoalkyl (meth)acrylate or dialkylaminoalkyl(meth)acrylamide, containing at least units of the formula: ##STR1## in which R.sub.1 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, R.sub.2 denotes an alkylene group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Y denotes O or NH and R.sub.3 and R.sub.4 independently of one another denote hydrogen or alkyl having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and at least one cationic derivative.

Abstract: A cosmetic composition for the first stage of a permanent deformation of the hair contains, in a cosmetically acceptable vehicle, as a reducing agent, an amino mercaptoalkylamide having the formula ##STR1## wherein A represents the divalent radical, --(CH.sub.2).sub.n -- wherein n is a whole number ranging from 2 to 5, or the divalent radical --(CH.sub.2)--O--(CH.sub.2).sub.2 --, m is 0 or a whole number ranging from 1 to 4, and (i) when m is 0, R.sub.2 represents hydrogen methyl, ethyl, isopropyl, isobutyl, 2-methyl butyl, benzyl, 4-amino butyl, 3-guanidino propyl, 2-methylthio ethyl, carboxymethyl or 2-carboxyethyl, and (ii) when m is a whole number from 1 to 4, R.sub.1 represents hydrogen or lower alkyl having 1-5 carbon atoms, and the salts of the compound of formula I.

Abstract: An improved method for giving a permanent comprising the steps of wrapping the hair around perm rods, applying permanent wave solution to the hair, placing the head in a heated environment, rinsing the head with water, towel drying the hair, applying neutralizer to the hair, again rinsing the head with water, and removing the rods is disclosed. The improvement comprises applying the neutralizer to the hair by an air brush with the neutralizer being applied to the hair in conjunction with a gas in a gas/neutralizer mix with the gas being at a pressure above the ambient pressure of the air. Further, the gas/neutralizer mix when applied to the hair preferably has a temperature less than the ambient temperature of the neutralizer. Preferably the neutralizer is applied to each rod more than once.

Abstract: The second lotion used for permanent wave process by two lotions method comprising a hydrogen peroxide solution having a pH value in excess of 4.5, but not exceeding 7.5 and a hydrogen peroxide concentration of 0.3 wt % or lower, and a process for permanent waving of hair using the said hydrogen peroxide solution as the second lotion.In the process for permanent waving of hair according to the invention, treating with the second lotions preferably carried out at a temperature of 37.degree..about. 40.degree. C.Use of the permanent waving lotion of the present invention can prevent damage of the hair due to the decline of modulus of the hair after repeated permanent waving process.

Abstract: A highly alkaline, no-base hair relaxer cream composition is disclosed which is phase-stable on ageing. A composition of this invention is a highly alkaline cosmetic cream base that may be used directly as a no-base hair relaxer or as a no-lye cream that may be converted for use as a no-base, no-lye relaxer by admixture with an aqueous activator solution. A method for preparing such a phase-stable no-base hair relaxer cream composition is also disclosed.

Abstract: This invention relates to a method of straightening, texturing and strengthening hair undergoing an alkaline straightening procedure and to nonacidic aqueous hair texturing and strengthening compositions for use in conjunction therewith. The texturing and strengthening compositions have a pH value from at least 8 to about 11 containing at least one water-dispersible hair texturing and strengthening agent including a quaternary nitrogen atom with at least one aliphatic alkyl group directly or indirectly bonded to the quaternary nitrogen atom, the aliphatic alkyl group having from about 3 to about 22 carbon atoms. Methods for applying the compositions in post-straightening and pre-straightening procedures are disclosed.

Abstract: The use of siloxanes for conditioning of hair is disclosed. They hold particular usefulness as substitutes for oxidizing agents in the hair waving process. A novel polymeric composition which comprises a silanol endblocked polydiorganosiloxane, cyclic siloxanes, a chlorobenzyl-functional siloxane and a catalyst is also disclosed.

Abstract: Keratinous material, such as human hair, in which disulfide linkages have been ruptured to form sulfhydryl groups can be permanently set using transition metal oxide compounds.

Abstract: By combining an aqueous chlorite solution with an organic or inorganic buffer salt and a divalent metal ion, a stable aqueous chlorite solution is attained for use in substantially improving the durability and resulting visual appearance of permanently waved hair. In addition, the present invention is equally effective as a post treatment for freshly permanently waved hair or as the oxidizer in the permanent waving process. Furthermore, this aqueous chlorite solution can be intermixed with conventional oxidizers to attain the desirable beneficial results.

Abstract: A process for the permanent waving of hair in which hair wound on a mandrel is exposed to the action of a reactive waving solution containing at least one reducing agent capable of cystine cleavage to achieve cystine cleavage and the step of applying an oxidizing agent to the hair to reform the cystine bonds, is improved by contacting the hair for from about 5 to 15 minutes with the reactive waving solution to achieve a substantially-maximum cystine bond cleavage; blotting the hair to remove the reactive waving solution; and contacting the hair with a protein flow solution for a period of time sufficient to induce protein flow in the hair to achieve a desired curl configuration prior to application of the oxidizing agent to reestablish the cystine bonds to fix the curl. The protein flow solution is an aqueous protein flow solution having a pH of from about 2 to about 10.

Abstract: The permanent shaping agent containing one or more hair keratin-reducing active substances is adjusted by means of stiffening additives to a consistency that is viscous to cream-like at room temperature with a viscosity of over 100 mPa.times.s.The stiffening additives are selected such that the permanent shaping agent, upon warming to a temperature with a temperature range between 25.degree. and 42.degree. C., undergoes a decided loss of viscosity of over 60% with respect to the initial viscosity, to a value under 50 mPa.times.s, i.e., becomes fluid within this temperature range.The permanent shaping agent of raised viscous or creamy consistency is applied to curled hair on curlers and then the viscosity of the permanent shaping agent is lowered, by elevating its temperature in situ, so that the liquified agent penetrates into the hair on the curlers.

Abstract: The use of siloxanes for conditioning of hair is disclosed. They hold particular usefulness as substitutes for oxidizing agents in the hair waving process. A novel polymeric composition which comprises a silanol endblocked polydiorganosiloxane, cyclic siloxanes, a chlorobenzyl-functional siloxane and a catalyst is also disclosed.

Abstract: A hair treatment process and end wrap laminate for use in permanent hair waving, the process including wrapping hair to be shielded with an end wrap laminate comprising an exterior sheet of impermeable flexible plastic, an interior sheet of absorbent flexible paper and a middle layer of adhesive uniformly bonding the sheets together. Preferably the interior sheet is impregnated with a hair waving solution counteractant. The unique process and end wrap protects the hair from unwanted exposure to hair waving solution and counteracts the solution during the permanent hair waving process.

Abstract: In a method for the oxidative dyeing of human or animal hair a hair dyeing agenet is prepared from at least one oxidation dye in creme or gel form, which is adjusted to a pH of 5.9 to 6.9.The preparation is performed with the addition of at least one alkali metal salt or alkaline earth metal salt as catalyst, which is added simultaneously with or immediately after the mixing of the oxidation dye with the oxidizing agent, the amount added being such that it is contained in the treatment-ready hair dyeing agent in proportions between 0.0001 and 1.00 wt.-%, preferably between 0.0004 and 0.001 wt.-%.

Abstract: An improved permanent waving process is disclosed. The improved waving process produces hair styles characterized as bouncier, more full bodied with an open/looser pattern of curls. Furthermore, the waving process of the invention provides for improved humectant properties that results in significantly less maintenance than is typically required when conventional waving processes are used. This waving process is a step-by-step procedure involving the addition of a rearranger, a wrapping lotion, and a neutralizer, in combination with intermittent rinsing. The improved quality and settability of the hair is believed to be attributable to a synergistic effect of an improved rearranging composition and an improved wrapping lotion. The rearranging composition comprises a homogenous mixture of a salt of thioglycolic acid and a homopolymer of methyacrylamidopropyltrimethyl ammonium chloride (MAPTAC).

Abstract: In a method for the oxidative dyeing of human or animal hair a hair dyeing agent is prepared from at least one oxidation dye in creme or gel form, which is adjusted to a pH of 5.9 to 6.9.The preparation is performed with the addition of at least one metal salt as catalyst, which is added simultaneously with or immediately after the mixing of the oxidation dye with the oxidizing agent, the amount added being such that it is contained in the treatment-ready hair dyeing agent in proportions between 0.001 and 1.00 wt.-%, preferably between 0.0004 and 0.001 wt.-%.The metal salts used as catalyst are preferably selected from the group containing copper(II) chloride, copper(II) sulfate, cobalt chloride, cerium sulfate and vanadium sulfate.

Abstract: Disclosed is a method of perming hair by applying to the hair a solution containing an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal siliconate. The siliconates are used in place of typical reducing agents. The perms produce no odor due to the absence of --SH functionality in the perming solutions.

Abstract: The present invention provides a method by which hair which is tightly curled or kinked can be consistently relaxed and reformed into a looser curl or wave configuration, with substantially less damage to the hair. The process of the present invention includes the steps of: (a) contacting the hair with an aqueous relaxant composition comprising five to ten weight percent monoethanolamine thioglycolate; (b) rinsing the hair; (c) contacting the hair with an aqueous suspending composition; (d) wrapping the hair onto curling rods; (e) contacting the hair with a heat generating composition comprising a first and second solution provided in separate containers; (f) contacting the hair with an oxidizing composition; (g) removing the curling rods; and (h) contacting the hair with an acidic protein final rinse.

Abstract: The present invention invention provides a method by which hair which is tightly curled or kinked can be consistently relaxed and reformed into a looser curl or wave configuation, with substantially less damage to the hair. The process of the present invention includes the steps of: (a) contacting the hair with an aqueous relaxant composition comprising five to ten weight percent alkaline thioglycolate; (b) rinsing the hair; (c) contacting the hair with an aqueous suspending composition; (d) wrapping the hair onto curling rods; (e) contacting the hair with a heat generating composition comprising a first and second solution provided in separate containers; (f) contacting the hair with an oxidizing composition; (g) removing the curling rods; and (h) contacting the hair with an acidic protein final rinse.

Abstract: A single formula, mild, alkaline permanent wave conditioning composition provides a strong, long lasting curl like an alkaline permanent wave composition but leaves the hair soft like an acid permanent wave composition while minimizing further damage to already damaged hair. The composition contains a water-soluble alkali salt of thioglycolic acid, such as ammonium thioglycolate in an amount of about 2% to about 22% by weight; a water-soluble alkaline dithiodiglycolate, such as diammonium dithiodiglycolate in an amount of about 0.1% to about 18% by weight; a hair softening and/or moisturizing agent, such as glycerine in an amount of about 0.1% to about 20% by weight; and sufficient additional alkali, if necessary, to bring the pH of the composition to about 7.5 to 8.7. This composition is easy to use and apply without damaging the hair while providing a strong, tight curl and leaving the hair unexpectedly soft. The composition can be lotion or water wrapped and can be used with or without heat.

Abstract: A no-base type, aqueous alkali-based hair-straightening composition having a pH between 12 and about 14 initiates and enhances the permanent hair-straightening effect. The hair-straightening composition comprises, as an active hair-straightening agent, a strong alkali, and a water-soluble hair-straightening initiating agent. The initiating agent is a mercapto (C.sub.4 -C.sub.6) dicarboxylic acid having a sulfhydryl functional group on a carbon atom alpha to one or both of the carboxy acid groups, salt thereof or derivative thereof, and is a hair keratin-disulfide reducing agent. The initiated composition particularly augments and enhances the permanent hair-straightening benefits of sodium hydroxide, yet substantially overcomes negative hair conditioning problems normally associated therewith. Thiomalic acid and 2,5-dimercaptoadipic acid are preferred initiating agents. Also disclosed is a hair-straightening system and method for straightening hair with the foregoing compositions.

Abstract: An improved rearranging composition and permanent waving process is disclosed. The improved waving process produces hair that is characterized as thicker, more full bodied with improved humectant properties and requiring significantly less maintenance than is typically required when conventional waving processes are used. The waving process is a step by step procedure involving the addition of a rearranger, a wrapping lotion, and a neutralizer, in combination with intermittent rinsing. The improved quality and settability of the hair is believed to be attributable to the improved rearranging composition. The rearranging composition comprises a homogeneous mixture of a salt of thioglycolic acid and a homopolymer of methylacrylamidopropyltrimethyl ammonium chloride (MAPTAC). A preferred rearranging composition includes a weight ratio of ammonium thioglycolate to monoethanolamine thioglycolate of from about 4:6 to about 7:3 and between about 1.0 to about 3.0% by weight of a cationic homopolymer of MAPTAC.

Abstract: A composition comprising an aqueous preparation on the basis of keratin softening, which contains as a hair swelling and penetration agent, a quaternized amino lactam having the formula: ##STR1## wherein m is an integer having a value of from 1 to 4; R is alkylene having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms and is optionally substituted with C.sub.1 to C.sub.4 alkyl; R.sub.1, R.sub.2 and R.sub.3 are each independently selected from the group of alkyl, alkyleneoxy alkyl, alkylhydroxy, alkoxy, aryl, aralkyl, alkaryl, and alkylene amidoalkyl radicals, said groups each having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms and at least one of R.sub.1, R.sub.2 and R.sub.3 is a radical having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms; and X.sup.- is a chloride, bromide or iodide anion. The invention also relates to the use of said quaternized compounds in hair structure altering compositions.

Abstract: The use of dipropylene glycol monomethyl ether in a quantity of 2 to 25 percent by weight as a swelling and penetrating material in hair shaping compositions based on a keratin softening active ingredient or an oxidizing active ingredient.The use of dipropylene glycol monomethyl ether brings about a clear increase in the effect of hair shaping compositions with an equally good or improved physiological compatibility.

Abstract: A method of setting hair or fur comprises applying to the hair or fur a composition for reducing keratin disulfide bonds, allowing the hair or fur to stand in a desired configuration, applying to the hair or fur a composition to set the hair or fur in a desired wave or straightened configuration, and washing or drying the hair or fur, where the composition to set the hair or fur is an ionic, water-soluble compound, which is substantially non-oxidizing to the products of keratin reduction and which reforms substantially all the keratin disulfide bonds, while substantially avoiding precipitation. The kit comprising and facilitating the same method is included.

Abstract: A process for the permanent waving of hair in which hair wound on a mandrel is exposed to the action of a reactive waving solution containing at least one reducing agent capable of cystine cleavage to achieve cystine cleavage and the step of applying an oxidizing agent to the hair to reform the cystine bonds, is improved by contacting the hair for from about 5 to 15 minutes with the reactive waving solution to achieve a substantially-maximum cystine bond cleavage; blotting the hair to remove the reactive waving solution; and contacting the hair with a protein flow solution for a period of time sufficient to induce protein flow in the hair to achieve a desired curl configuration prior to application of the oxidizing agent to reestablish the cystine bonds to fix the curl. The protein flow solution is an aqueous protein flow solution having a pH of from about 2 to about 10.

Abstract: Keratinous material, such as human hair, in which disulfide linkages have been reptured to form sulfhydryl groups can be set using glutathione disulfide.