Abstract: A composition for topical application to the skin for alleviation or prevention of dry flaky skin conditions, dandruff or ache comprising one or more stratum corneum trypsin-like enzymes. The composition may further comprise an additional enzyme selected from glycosidases, other proteases, lipases and mixtures thereof. Optional additional active ingredients include sunscreens, lipids, hydroxy carboxylic acids and ketocarboxylic acids.

Abstract: An efficient method of producing phytosphingosine-containing ceramide one comprising: (a) obtaining a phytosphingosine base from tetraacetylphytosphingosine (TAPS) by a deacetylation reaction wherein the TAPS is produced by fermentation of cells of the F-60-10 mating type strain of Hansenula ciferrii using a fed-batch mode and a non-fermentable carbon source; and (b) coupling together the phytosphingosine base and a fatty acid/.omega.-hydroxy fatty acid component wherein the .omega.-hydroxy fatty acid component is prepared by a process which includes Kolbe synthesis.

Abstract: Fatty acid amides, but not free fatty acids or fatty acid esters, in combination with either retinol or retinyl ester resulted in a synergistic enhancement in keratinocyte proliferation and synergistic inhibition of keratinocyte differentiation. The effects of the retinol or retinyl esters in combination with fatty acid amides were analogous to treatment with retinoic acid.

Abstract: A composition for topical application to skin which comprises:(i) from 0.0001 to 10% by weight of one or more ceramide pathway intermediates or precursors thereof and mixtures thereof; and(ii) a balancing amount of a cosmetically acceptable vehicle for the intermediate.

Abstract: A composition for topical application to the skin for alleviation or prevention of dry flaky skin condition, dandruff or acne comprising stratum corneum chymotrypsin-like enzyme.The composition may additionally comprise a second enzyme selected from glycosidases, other proteases, lipases and mixtures thereof.

Abstract: A composition for topical application to the skin for alleviation or prevention of dry flaky skin condition, dandruff or acne comprising one or more stratum corneum thiol proteases. The composition may further comprise a mild reducing agent and/or an additional enzyme selected from glycosidases, other proteases, lipases and mixtures thereof. Optional additional active ingredients include sunscreens, lipids, hydroxy carboxylic acids and ketocarboxylic acids.

Abstract: A new synthesis of .omega.-hydroxy acids, which employs commercially available starting materials and lowers the cost of production. The process involves coupling a fatty acyl group by enamine chemistry, followed by a ring expansion and selective reduction of ketoacid.

Abstract: Compositions for treating skin, hair and nails which contain 25-hydroxycalciferol in combination with a lipid ingredient. The compositions avoid the toxic effects of 1,25-dihydroxycalciferol, yet attain keratinocyte differentiation and provide additional benefits. Also disclosed is a method of improving or preventing the appearance of wrinkled, flaky, aged, photodamaged skin by applying to skin a composition containing in a cosmetically acceptable vehicle 25-hydroxycalciferol and a lipid ingredient.

Abstract: Skin treatment compositions for the enhancement of lipid production in the skin. Compositions contain a thiol, or an S-ester, in combination with L-serine or N-acetyl-L-serine.

Abstract: A method of synthesis of .omega.-hydroxy fatty acid containing ceramides having the general structure (1). ##STR1## where A represents CH.sub.2 or --CH.dbd.CH--Y represents a residue of a C.sub.14 to C.sub.22 fatty acid having the structure (2) ##STR2## where Z is --OH or an epoxy oxygenx is an integer of from 12 to 20y is an integer of from 20 to 40z is 0 or an integer of from 1 to 4a is an integer of from 8 to 50b is an integer of from 10 to 100and n is an integer of from 7 to 27.

Abstract: A composition for topical application to the skin for alleviation or prevention of dry flaky skin conditions, dandruff or acne comprising:(1) a glycosidase; and(2) a protease the components (1) and (2) being present simultaneously in the composition or being separately presented with indication for the application of component (1) before component (2) .

Abstract: The use of acyl lactylates having a C.sub.4 to C.sub.16 acyl group or of compositions containing such acyl lactylates to enhance the elasticity of skin, is provided.

Abstract: Modified ceramides are defined, together with their synthesis and compositions comprising them for topical application to human skin, hair and nails. The modified pseudoceramides have a structure: ##STR1## and an approximate summary is that R and R.sup.1 are aliphatic hydrocarbon, A is CH.sub.2, CHOR.sup.2, CH.dbd.CH or CHOY, and at least one of R.sup.2, R.sup.3 and R.sup.4 is sulphate, phosphate or similar. The presence of phosphate or sulphate facilitates skin absorption, after which the phosphate or sulphate is removed by enzymes present in vivo.

Abstract: A composition suitable for topical application to human skin comprises, in addition to a suitable vehicle an active ingredient which can control skin barrier functions. The active ingredient is (a) a long chain .omega.-hydroxy fatty acid or a carboxy-substituted derivative, (b) an hydroxy-or epoxy-derivative of an essential fatty acid or an ester formed between (a) and (b). Certain novel compounds of structures (a), (b) and (a)(b) esters are also claimed.

Abstract: A lipstick article is provided which houses a lipstick with a water content of from 0.5 to 30% by weight. The lipstick is packaged in a casing including a base, an elongated cylindrical inner body received in the base and containing the lipstick, a device for elevating-retracting the lipstick from within the inner body, a hollow elongated cap fitting over the inner body, and a hollow elongated plug sleeve inserted within the cap and formed of a material more flexible than a material forming the cap, the plug sleeve sealingly contacting an outer wall of the inner body to prevent evaporation of water from the lipstick.

Abstract: A powdered molded color cosmetic composition, especially a blush formulation, is provided that includes an ultrafine boron nitride and a magnesium fatty acid salt, the combination being held in a pharmaceutically acceptable vehicle.