Abstract: Keratin fiber condition is evaluated by testing dry hair to determine analysis factors. For each factor, two values of elongation are determined by measuring the force required to obtain a first value and a second value of elongation of the fiber. The percent total elongation of the fiber to its break point is also determined. The ratio of the two measured forces is used with the percent total elongation in empirically derived nonlinear equations to determine analysis factors, such as a condition factor and a moisture factor. It is found that each factor is independent of fiber diameter or the source of the fiber. It is also found that the factors change as a function of subjective or objective measures of chemical damage to, and moisture content of, the hair fiber. The factors can, therefore, be used for identifying hair care products suitable for application to the hair without inducing unacceptable damage.

Abstract: A process for the permanent waving of hair in which hair wound on a mandrel is exposed to the action of a reactive waving solution containing at least one reducing agent capable of cystine cleavage to achieve cystine cleavage and the step of applying an oxidizing agent to the hair to reform the cystine bonds, is improved by contacting the hair for from about 5 to 15 minutes with the reactive waving solution to achieve a substantially-maximum cystine bond cleavage; blotting the hair to remove the reactive waving solution; and contacting the hair with a protein flow solution for a period of time sufficient to induce protein flow in the hair to achieve a desired curl configuration prior to application of the oxidizing agent to reestablish the cystine bonds to fix the curl. The protein flow solution is an aqueous protein flow solution having a pH of from about 2 to about 10.

Abstract: The condition of hair or other keratin fibers can be evaluated by measuring the force required to obtain a first value of elongation of the fiber in the yield region of the force-elongation curve, and the force required to obtain a second value of elongation of the fiber in the yield region. The ratio of these two measured forces is then determined as a damage index for the fiber. It is found that a constant force ratio is obtained for wet virgin keratin fiber independent of fiber diameter or the source of the fiber. It is also found that the force ratio changes as a function of subjective or objective measures of chemical damage to the hair fiber. The force ratio or damage index can, therefore, be used for identifying hair care products suitable for application to the hair without inducing unacceptable damage. The tests may be performed with simple tensile testing apparatus without tedious examination of the hair under a microscope.

Abstract: An aqueous permanent wave solution employing one or more compounds for cleaving keratin interprotein disulfide bonds is enhanced by including a biocompatible 1,3-alkyldiol. Preferably from two to seven percent by weight of 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol or 1,3-butanediol is employed. Such compositions provide a useful neutral permanent wave solution employing ammonium thioglycolate, the first permanent wave solution with a pH in the same acidic range as the isolectric point of hair, or a five minute permanent wave with either an acid or alkaline solution.

Abstract: A process for the permanent waving of hair in which hair wound on a mandrel is exposed to the action of a reactive waving solution containing at least one reducing agent capable of cystine cleavage to achieve cystine cleavage and the step of applying an oxidizing agent to the hair to reform the cystine bonds, is improved by contacting the hair for from about 5 to 15 minutes with the reactive waving solution to achieve a substantially-maximum cystine bond cleavage; blotting the hair to remove the reactive waving solution; and contacting the hair with a protein flow solution for a period of time sufficient to induce protein flow in the hair to achieve a desired curl configuration prior to application of the oxidizing agent to reestablish the cystine bonds to fix the curl. The protein flow solution is an aqueous protein flow solution having a pH of from about 2 to about 10.

Abstract: This hair waving composition has a self-limiting reaction so that reduction of sulfhydryl bonds and reduction of cystine is effectively discontinued after an interval, for minimizing potential for damage to hair when making a permanent wave. The self-limiting effect is obtained by using a composition containing both the ammonium and monoethanolamine salts of a suitable mercaptan, preferably thioglycolic acid. In a composition having a pH in the range of 9 to 9.5 the ratio of ammonium thioglycolate to monoethanolamine thioglycolate is in the range of from 2:1 to 8:1. Preferably the total concentration of ammonium thioglycolate plus monoethanolamine thioglycolate is in the of from 3% to 12% by weight. Such a composition may also include from 1% to 10% by weight surfactant, up to 1.5% by weight sequestrant for metal ions, and conditioners, colors, fragrances and the like.

Abstract: A scalp treatment for reducing average daily hair loss periodically applies to the scalp a composition containing an active chelating agent sufficient to chelate at least 0.3 milligrams of divalent calcium ion per milliliter of the composition and leaving the chelating agent in contact with the scalp for at least eight hours. Particularly preferred chelating agents comprise ethylene diamine tetraacetic acid, citric acid, and soluble salts thereof.

Abstract: Hair and skin treating compositions containing hydrolyzed proteins having an average molecular weight in the range of from 500 to 2,000 are enhanced with an approximately equimolar quantity of amino acid derived zwitterion having a molecular weight less than 200, such as taurine. Preferably the taurine is present in such a composition in the range of from 1 to 5% by weight, and the composition has a pH in the range of from 3 to 10, the most preferably from 3 to 7.

Abstract: The invention comprises compositions for cosmetic skin treatment utilizing the application of heat to the skin. The compositions include between 30 and 70 percent by weight of petrolatum, between 20 and 68 percent by weight of triglycerides, preferably capric, caprylic and stearic triglycerides, and between 0.1 and 5 percent by weight of polyethylene.

Abstract: The ability of a hair styling material to enhance the holding power of a curl is determined by a comparison with the holding power of hair set only with water. A tress of hair is wetted and wrapped around a cylinder and held in place until dried. A similar curled tress is treated with a hair styling material. Each of the tresses is compressed across a diameter and the force and deflection are measured. The work of deformation of the treated loop of hair is compared with the work of deformation of the water treated loop of hair by finding the ratio between the two works of deformation. This ratio is a "hold factor" for the hair styling material.

Abstract: A shampoo cape has a central C-shaped opening connected to one edge of the cape by a slit. A flap is secured on the back of the cape on the outside with a U-shaped opening in the flap secured along a portion of the C-shaped opening in the cape. A crescent shaped neck pad is sealed in a pocket integral with the flap. When used, the flap hangs into a backbar sink for retaining water in the sink and the neck cushion supports the nape of the user's neck away from the hard edge of the sink.

Abstract: A cosmetic preparation is disclosed which is effective in moisturizing and softening skin, improving texture and feel of skin, and diminishing superficial and deep wrinkles in skin. The preparation comprises gibberellic acid and lysine as active ingredients. The preparation can contain as additional active ingredients gliadin, ascorbic acid and urea.

Abstract: Fatty acid lactylates and/or glycolates are combined with sodium hydroxide or at least one reducing agent for hair and used in a hair straightening operation.

Abstract: Fatty acid lactylates and/or glycolates are combined as humectant compounds with at least one reducing agent for hair and used in a permanent waving operation. In comparison to hair permanently waved without their use, the humectant compounds impart increased moisture retention to the hair without sacrificing waving efficiency while, in most instances, showing improved waving efficiencies, particularly at elevated humidities.

Abstract: A replica of biological surface tissue with negative topography lying on a platform is illuminated by means of light from a light source disposed inside a base on which the platform is mounted. Illuminating light from the source is transmitted to a location above the platform from which it is directed onto the platform such that the illuminating light impinges upon the replica at an angle approximately between 20.degree. and 42.degree. to the surface of the replica. Preferably, the illuminating light is transmitted by a fiber optical bundle and/or mirrors with flat or varying focal lengths. The platform is rotatable and tiltable, and is adjusted for viewing of the replica with positive topography. The illuminated replica is magnified by a microscope and projected thereby onto a screen for observation.

Abstract: A projection microscope is provided in which light from a light source in the base of the microscope may be directed either up through a specimen mounted on a stage to provide transmitted lighting or obliquely downwardly onto the specimen to provide surface lighting. An objective lens above the illuminated area enlarges the image and focuses it on a projection lens mounted within a fully enclosed housing. Light from the projection lens is reflected by an adjustable mirror either onto the back of a ground glass viewing screen along a first optical axis, or onto a photographic film in a film holder positioned at the top of the housing.

Abstract: Polypeptides with sterically unhindered positive charges can be incorporated into a cosmetic formulation for human hair, skin and nails. The polypeptides, which can be prepared by trypsin catalyzed hydrolysis of proteins, have the formula: ##STR1## wherein n is an integer sufficient to provide a molecular weight of the polypeptide of from about 200 to about 2,000 each R.sub.1 is independently a side group attached to the alpha carbon of a naturally occurring amino acid; and R.sub.