Abstract: Method and apparatus for forming and joining large and small hems particularly on denim jeans and other types of trousers. An internally folded large hem is formed mechanically and in a highly accurate manner by engaging the end portion of a trouser leg under circumferential tension and folding a projected hem margin into the trouser leg while supporting opposite sides of the trouser leg in a region immediately adjacent to the desired hem fold line. A full depth small hem may be formed by compressing a limited portion of the large hem into a fold, with the raw edge of the fabric positioned substantially at the fold line of the large hem. The configuration of the compressed limited portion is retained until the sewing machine is in position to grip it and commence sewing. A continuous fold former is brought into position before sewing is commenced to complete the small hem folding initiated by the initial compression.