Abstract: A sewing device (1) is provided with a programmable electronic control system (4) for sewing folds and tucks. Such that format-dependent parts (guide tongue, pressure pad) can be eliminated at the time of a change of the seam program the use of a guide tongue is eliminated that depends on the form of the seam and of a format-dependent pressure pad. The feed of the fabric is performed only with a folding tool (5) with straight folding edge and the holding and guiding of the fabric during the sewing operation using a straight pressure pad (7). The electronic control system (4) can be programmed such that the desired seam course is obtained exclusively by the superimposition of longitudinal and transverse movements of the pressure pad (7). Parameters (1′-7IV) that determine the seam course are preferably entered in a graphics-supported manner.

Abstract: A sewing unit for working in extra width in a single fabric layer, wherein a necessary gathering value is calculated by a computer of the sewing unit after the entry of the initial length of the fabric layer and the desired length to be obtained after gathering and sewing. Furthermore, the real number of stitches is calculated to control the end point of an extra width section. The particular current real stitch length value, in which the gathering values dependent on slip of the feeders of the sewing machine is taken into account, is read for this purpose from a memory.

Abstract: A process for accurately determining the needle zero point of the sewing machine (4) of an automatic sewing unit (1) in relation to a positioning opening (12) of a fabric holder (10). The fabric holder (10) is connected to two feed parts (13, 14) displaceable along a straight guide rail (15) via at least two connecting rods (7, 8) of a coordinate transmission (9), such that the displacement of the feed parts (13, 14) brings about corresponding X/Y movements of the fabric holder (10), and wherein the displacement of the feed parts (13, 14) along the guide rail (15) is performed by means of drives (16, 17), which can be actuated by means of an electronic control device (6) containing at least one memory (26).

Abstract: A sewing or embroidering machine with an electronic control device including a microcomputer. Access authorization for the individual modes of operation of the sewing and embroidering machine can be changed by the buyer of the machine. The assignment of access authorization to individual modes of operation of the sewing machine is stored in a first write-read memory in the form of a table, access authorization table. The first write-read memory is connected with the microprocessor and with a first input device such that after a corresponding operating function is called up or requested by a person authorized to do so, the access authorization can be correspondingly changed for the mode of operation in question by the input means.