Abstract: The present invention relates to a method of modulating a selected biological activity of a naturally occurring material having one or more biological activities in an extract of the naturally occurring material, the method comprising incubating the extract in a medium in the presence of an aerobically metabolizing microorganism, under suitable aerobic conditions, for a period of time sufficient to modulate the selected activity with respect to baseline activity of the unincubated extract. The invention also relates to the bioconverted material so prepared, and the use of same in cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions.

Abstract: The invention relates to a composition for topical application to the skin comprising effective amounts of a protease inhibitor and a cell differentiation enhancer. The composition is useful in promoting skin lipid barrier repair and maintaining the integrity of the lipid barrier. In this regard, the compositions can be used in the treatment and prevention of dry skin, and associated chrono/proto-aging conditions, in the treatment and prevention of irritation on the skin, in the treatment and prevention of UV-related damage to the skin, and in the enhancement of the retention of self-tanning.

Abstract: The present invention relates to a method of modulating a selected biological activity of a naturally occurring material having one or more biological activities in an extract of the naturally occurring material, the method comprising incubating the extract in a medium in the presence of an aerobically metabolizing microorganism, under suitable aerobic conditions, for a period of time sufficient to modulate the selected activity with respect to baseline activity of the unincubated extract. The invention also relates to the bioconverted material so prepared, and the use of same in cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions.

Abstract: The present invention provides a method of retarding desquamation of the stratum corneum, and maintaining stratum corneum thickness, by applying to the skin an effective amount of cholesterol sulfate. The retardation of desquamation can be useful in enhancing the skin's own UV protection, in prolonging the retention time of a sunless tan, and generally reducing the appearance of lines and wrinkles associated with both photo- and chronoaging.

Abstract: The present invention provides a method of retarding desquamation of the stratum corneum, and maintaining stratum corneum thickness, by applying to the skin an effective amount of cholesterol sulfate. The retardation of desquamation can be useful in enhancing the skin's own UV protection, in prolonging the retention time of a sunless tan, and generally reducing the appearance of lines and wrinkles associated with both photo- and chronoaging.

Abstract: The invention relates to lipid mixture compositions comprising one or more cholesteryl esters in an amount of at least about 25% by weight of the composition, and less than about 5% by weight of sphingolipid, as well as cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulations for topical application to the lips containing the lipid mixture.