Abstract: A composition useful in a delivery system for water-insoluble ingredient(s) containing at least one organic phospholipid capable of forming bilayers in aqueous solution; at least one amphoteric surfactant present in an amount by weight equal to or greater than the amount of the phospholipid; at least one nonionic surfactant present in an amount by weight equal to or greater than the amount of the phospholipid; and at least one cationic polymer, wherein the cationic polymer functions to control the amount of water-insoluble ingredient(s) deposited on keratinous substances. A method for treating keratinous substances with the compositions and delivery systems is also disclosed. In addition, the amount of water-insoluble ingredient(s) to be deposited can be controlled by varying the amount of the phospholipid, the nonionic surfactant, or both.

Abstract: A novel oxidizing system comprising ascorbic acid, at least one metal ion and an oxidizing agent capable of generating an oxidizing potential of from about 100 to about 500 millivolts at a pH ranging from about 2 to about 10. The oxidizing system can be used in quenching or neutralizing permanent wave processes and in developing oxidative hair color.

Abstract: Compositions containing at least one organic phospholipid capable of forming bilayers in aqueous solution; and at least one amphoteric surfactant and at least one nonionic surfactant, each present in an amount by weight equal to or greater than the amount of the phospholipid; where the phospholipid and surfactants are present in a combined amount sufficient to allow at least one water-insoluble ingredient selected from waxes and unneutralized and partially neutralized water-insoluble polymers, resins, and latexes to be incorporated into an aqueous solution. A delivery system containing the composition and methods for styling hair and for treating keratinous substances are also disclosed.

Abstract: A composition containing at least one organic phospholipid capable of forming bilayers in aqueous solution;at least one amphoteric surfactant; and at least one nonionic surfactant present in an amount by weight equal to or greater than the amount of the phospholipid. The invention also relates to a delivery system for water-insoluble ingredients containing the above components, at least one water-insoluble ingredient, and an aqueous phase, wherein the organic phospholipid, amphoteric surfactant, and nonionic surfactant are present in a combined amount sufficient to allow the water-insoluble ingredient to be incorporated into the system. A method of treating keratinous susbstances is also disclosed.

Abstract: A composition containing an organic phospholipid capable of forming bilayers in solution, a nonionic surfactant, and an amphoteric surfactant in a combined amount sufficient to allow lipophilic ingredients to be incorporated into an aqueous solution, and method for making such compositions.

Abstract: Keratin fiber condition is evaluated by testing dry hair to determine analysis factors. For each factor, two values of elongation are determined by measuring the force required to obtain a first value and a second value of elongation of the fiber. The percent total elongation of the fiber to its break point is also determined. The ratio of the two measured forces is used with the percent total elongation in empirically derived nonlinear equations to determine analysis factors, such as a condition factor and a moisture factor. It is found that each factor is independent of fiber diameter or the source of the fiber. It is also found that the factors change as a function of subjective or objective measures of chemical damage to, and moisture content of, the hair fiber. The factors can, therefore, be used for identifying hair care products suitable for application to the hair without inducing unacceptable damage.

Abstract: A process for the permanent waving of hair in which hair wound on a mandrel is exposed to the action of a reactive waving solution containing at least one reducing agent capable of cystine cleavage to achieve cystine cleavage and the step of applying an oxidizing agent to the hair to reform the cystine bonds, is improved by contacting the hair for from about 5 to 15 minutes with the reactive waving solution to achieve a substantially-maximum cystine bond cleavage; blotting the hair to remove the reactive waving solution; and contacting the hair with a protein flow solution for a period of time sufficient to induce protein flow in the hair to achieve a desired curl configuration prior to application of the oxidizing agent to reestablish the cystine bonds to fix the curl. The protein flow solution is an aqueous protein flow solution having a pH of from about 2 to about 10.

Abstract: An aqueous permanent wave solution employing one or more compounds for cleaving keratin interprotein disulfide bonds is enhanced by including a biocompatible 1,3-alkyldiol. Preferably from two to seven percent by weight of 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol or 1,3-butanediol is employed. Such compositions provide a useful neutral permanent wave solution employing ammonium thioglycolate, the first permanent wave solution with a pH in the same acidic range as the isolectric point of hair, or a five minute permanent wave with either an acid or alkaline solution.

Abstract: A process for the permanent waving of hair in which hair wound on a mandrel is exposed to the action of a reactive waving solution containing at least one reducing agent capable of cystine cleavage to achieve cystine cleavage and the step of applying an oxidizing agent to the hair to reform the cystine bonds, is improved by contacting the hair for from about 5 to 15 minutes with the reactive waving solution to achieve a substantially-maximum cystine bond cleavage; blotting the hair to remove the reactive waving solution; and contacting the hair with a protein flow solution for a period of time sufficient to induce protein flow in the hair to achieve a desired curl configuration prior to application of the oxidizing agent to reestablish the cystine bonds to fix the curl. The protein flow solution is an aqueous protein flow solution having a pH of from about 2 to about 10.

Abstract: This hair waving composition has a self-limiting reaction so that reduction of sulfhydryl bonds and reduction of cystine is effectively discontinued after an interval, for minimizing potential for damage to hair when making a permanent wave. The self-limiting effect is obtained by using a composition containing both the ammonium and monoethanolamine salts of a suitable mercaptan, preferably thioglycolic acid. In a composition having a pH in the range of 9 to 9.5 the ratio of ammonium thioglycolate to monoethanolamine thioglycolate is in the range of from 2:1 to 8:1. Preferably the total concentration of ammonium thioglycolate plus monoethanolamine thioglycolate is in the of from 3% to 12% by weight. Such a composition may also include from 1% to 10% by weight surfactant, up to 1.5% by weight sequestrant for metal ions, and conditioners, colors, fragrances and the like.

Abstract: A scalp treatment for reducing average daily hair loss periodically applies to the scalp a composition containing an active chelating agent sufficient to chelate at least 0.3 milligrams of divalent calcium ion per milliliter of the composition and leaving the chelating agent in contact with the scalp for at least eight hours. Particularly preferred chelating agents comprise ethylene diamine tetraacetic acid, citric acid, and soluble salts thereof.

Abstract: Hair and skin treating compositions containing hydrolyzed proteins having an average molecular weight in the range of from 500 to 2,000 are enhanced with an approximately equimolar quantity of amino acid derived zwitterion having a molecular weight less than 200, such as taurine. Preferably the taurine is present in such a composition in the range of from 1 to 5% by weight, and the composition has a pH in the range of from 3 to 10, the most preferably from 3 to 7.

Abstract: The ability of a hair styling material to enhance the holding power of a curl is determined by a comparison with the holding power of hair set only with water. A tress of hair is wetted and wrapped around a cylinder and held in place until dried. A similar curled tress is treated with a hair styling material. Each of the tresses is compressed across a diameter and the force and deflection are measured. The work of deformation of the treated loop of hair is compared with the work of deformation of the water treated loop of hair by finding the ratio between the two works of deformation. This ratio is a "hold factor" for the hair styling material.

Abstract: Fatty acid lactylates and/or glycolates are combined with sodium hydroxide or at least one reducing agent for hair and used in a hair straightening operation.

Abstract: Fatty acid lactylates and/or glycolates are combined as humectant compounds with at least one reducing agent for hair and used in a permanent waving operation. In comparison to hair permanently waved without their use, the humectant compounds impart increased moisture retention to the hair without sacrificing waving efficiency while, in most instances, showing improved waving efficiencies, particularly at elevated humidities.