Abstract: A sewing system that is smaller and more simple in construction than the prior art. The cloth holding means and cloth clamping means are part of a X-Y-Z motion apparatus that is supported solely from the top arm of the sewing system frame.Because the spaced twin needles of the sewing system will be required to penetrate up to 14 layers of thick cloth in some anticipated applications, considerable rigidity and stability is imparted to the single needed clamp that supports the two needles by reciprocating the needle clamp with two symmetrically spaced needle bars. This minimizes canting of the needle clamp and bending of the needle bar, thereby assuring more uniform stitch lines and minimizes missed stitches.

Abstract: A method and apparatus for forming belt loops and transferring the formed loop to a sewing station where the loop may be stitched to the waistband of a pair of trousers. The invention is particularly useful in sewing belt loops onto the waistbands of trousers of the blue jeans type.

Abstract: A method for folding and stitching a shirt placket uses a remote placket forming assembly to facilitate formation of a shirt placket while a previously-formed placket is being stitched. To provide this operation, a transfer arm assembly supports the placket forming assembly at a location remote from the sewing machine of the apparatus. Following the formation of a placket on a first workpiece, the transfer arm assembly clamps and delivers the first workpiece to the sewing machine. Thereafter, the placket is clamped into a working position, and the transfer arm assembly is returned to its original position to receive a second workpiece. As the transfer arm assembly is returned, the sewing machine is actuated to stitch the previously-formed placket.

Abstract: In a method of constructing patch pockets, adhesive (16) is provided adjacent to the bottom and side edges of a patch pocket blank (10). Preferably, the adhesive (16) is located on the obverse side so that inward folding of the edges orients said adhesive in the reverse direction. The folded patch pocket blank (10) is positioned against a garment (22) and the adhesive (16) is activated to effect bonding. If desired, a stitch (24) can be added along the edges of the adhesively secured pocket.In a method of constructing flaps, a flap blank (30) is provided with adhesive (35) adjacent to the top edge. Preferably, the adhesive (35) is provided on the obverse side so that downward folding of the top edge orients the adhesive in the reverse direction. The flap blank (30) is positioned against a garment (22) and the adhesive (35) is activated to effect bonding. If desired, a stitch (38) can be added along the top edge of the flap.

Abstract: A sewing machine attachment (12) for sewing a label to a workpiece or sewing other 360 degree operations having a sliding cloth plate (22), cloth clamps (24 and 26), a backup clamp (32) and a template (30) for clamping the workpiece and label is disclosed. The template has first and second peripheral surfaces, and at least part of the contour of the first peripheral surface in a first position substantially aligns with at least part of the contour of the second peripheral surface in a second position. The template is moved between the first position and the second position during the 360 degree operation.

Abstract: An apparatus (100) for applying a strip of adhesive (22) to a workpiece (10) is provided. The apparatus (100) includes an applicator (150) reciprocally mounted to a support member (108) such that a working position and a standby position are established. If desired, a pair of applicators (150, 152) can be provided to apply parallel strips of adhesive (22) and one of the applicators (150) may be pivoted relative the support member (108) to allow access to the interior of the applicators (150, 152) for maintenance or inspection. The applicators (150, 152) include a feed pulley assembly (190) located between a roll (184) of adhesive ribbon (182) and a cutter assembly (220) for cutting the adhesive into discrete strips (322). The feed pulley assembly (190) maintains a slack condition in the adhesive ribbon (182), thereby preventing undue tension from being applied to the adhesive ribbon (182) during advancement. The apparatus (100) also includes a stripper-feeder assembly ( 280) which includes a carriage (282).

Abstract: In a system (10) for prefabricating strings of pocket facing strips and welts on a continuous basis, the assembly proceeds in parallel along opposite sides of a table (12). Along the facing strip fabrication portion (18) of the system (10), adhesive backed tape (28) from a supply reel is directed to a bonding station (84) where facing strips (108) are positioned and adhesively attached to the tape, after which the tape and attached facing strips are wound onto a takeup reel. In the welt fabrication portion (20) of the system (10), adhesive backed tape (48) from a supply reel is indexed along a feedpath to a bonding station (84') where sections of fabric (154) are positioned and adhesively secured to the tape. From there the tape (48) is indexed to an adhesive application station (172) where adhesive (174) is applied to the top surface of the tape, after which each fabric section (154) is folded over and adhesively secured to the tape at a folding/bonding station (230) prior to collection on a takeup reel.

Abstract: In a system (300) for prefabricating strings of pocket welts on a continuous basis, the assembly proceeds along one side of a table (12). Adhesive backed fabric tape (48) from a supply reel (50 ) is indexed into a bonding station where sections of fabric (154) are positioned by photoelectric sensors (306, 308) and adhesively attached to the fabric tape. The fabric tape (48) is indexed to an adhesive application station (310) where an adhesive layer is bonded to the fabric tape and the backing layer separated at a backing separator (356). The fabric tape (48) then moves to a bonding/folding station (420) where the fabric pieces are folded and bonded to form the welts. Forward and rearward centering assemblies (424,426) employ front and rear positioning fingers (428, 430) to center the fabric tape in the folding/bonding station (420).

Abstract: A welt applicating apparatus (10) is disclosed which positions welts (12) on individual garment panels (14) for adhesive attachment. The apparatus (10) includes a holding clamp assembly (136) which moves the tape sideways against fixed guide surfaces (176) to align the welt. A transfer clamp assembly (138) clamps the welt with a transfer clamp (202) and moves the welt into a preselected position between side plates (240-242) of the apparatus (10). A trimming assembly (248) is activated to move inwardly to trim the edges of the welt with cutting blade assemblies including movable blades (266-268) and stationary blades (262-264). A vacuum nozzle (278) collects the material trimmed and the backing layer cut by the cutting assemblies. A setting clamp assembly (282) clamps the welt in the preselected position with an extendable setting clamp mounted on a setting clamp arm (284). The arm pivots adjacent the garment panel. The setting clamp is extended to position the welt against the garment panel (14).

Abstract: A method and apparatus for folding a piece of welt material along longitudinal and transverse fold lines. The method and apparatus produce a folded piece of welt material with sharply defined transverse and longitudinal folds in a safe and efficient manner. A preferred embodiment of the garment welt folder (26) utilizes a template (30) having a recessed area (34) and a slot (38) with sharply defined longitudinal and transverse edges corresponding to longitudinal and transverse folds to be made in the welt material (64). Finger blades (50, 52) are positioned to secure the welt material (64) at the longitudinal fold lines by a vertical double-acting fluid cylinder (44) and two horizontal double-acting fluid cylinders (46, 48). Two portions (68, 70) of the welt material (64) extending beyond the longitudinal fold line are folded over the portion (66) of the area of the welt material (64) within the longitudinal fold lines by two folding blades (58, 60).

Abstract: A system (10) for transporting sets of garment panels and pocket bags through work stations functioning to implant substantially finished pockets in the garment panels includes a transfer machine (12) with an endless belt (24) mounted for movement around the machine, and a plurality of carriers (14) secured to the belt. A template (46) is mounted on each carrier (14) for releasably holding a garment panel and pocket bag in proper relationship as the carriers are indexed. Means (60), (110) are provided for selectively opening the templates (46) for loading and unloading.

Abstract: In a method of constructing patch pockets, adhesive (16) is provided adjacent to the bottom and side edges of a patch pocket blank (10). Preferably, the adhesive (16) is located on the obverse side so that inward folding of the edges orients said adhesive in the reverse direction. The folded patch pocket blank (10) is positioned against a garment (22) and the adhesive (16) is activated to effect bonding. If desired, a stitch (24) can be added along the edges of the adhesively secured pocket.In a method of constructing flaps, a flap blank (30) is provided with adhesive (35) adjacent to the top edge. Preferably, the adhesive (35) is provided on the obverse side so that downward folding of the top edge orients the adhesive in the reverse direction. The flap blank (30) is positioned against a garment (22) and the adhesive (35) is activated to effect bonding. If desired, a stitch (38) can be added along the top edge of the flap.

Abstract: In a method of constructing pockets, a pocket blank is preferably folded first along both longitudinal edges, and then transversely so that the folded edges are inside the two resultant pocket panels. The inner pocket panel is adhesively secured to the inside of a garment wherein a pocket is desired. Following formation of a slit of predetermined shape in the adhesive connection between the garment and inner pocket panel, the flaps formed thereby are folded back and adhesively secured to produce a pocket slot. Alternatively, the slot can be formed directly by cutting or punching a rectangular opening through the garment and inner pocket panel. In accordance with the preferred construction, a pocket welt is then adhesively secured across the bottom of the slot. A reinforcing stitch is preferably added through the welt and the folded back bottom edge of the slot. If desired, another welt or a pocket flap extending through the slot can be adhesively secured across the top of the slot.

Abstract: An apparatus (10) for incorporating a pocket bag (30) into a garment panel (84) includes several operational stations (12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24). The pocket bag (30) and the garment panel (84) are held in place by a manually moveable template (44). The pocket bag (30) and garment panel (84) are adhesively interconnected at the first station (12). A slit (122) is formed at the second station (14). The edges of the slit (122) are folded back and secured to form a pocket slot (184) at the next two stations (16, 18). If desired, a welt (240) can be installed at another station (20). If desired, a facing strip (268) can be installed over the welt (240) and/or slot (184) at another station (22). The periphery of the closed pocket bag (30) is secured at the last station (24), after which the panel (84) can be assembled into a garment.

Abstract: In an apparatus for and method of depositing adhesive strips, a ribbon including a layer of adhesive is directed along a predetermined input path. In the first two embodiments, the ribbon is engaged between a measuring roller and a driven roller responsive thereto, and fed into positioning structure. The material on which the adhesive is to be deposited is located between the positioning structure and a head, which can be heated. Separation means is provided adjacent the input path for selectively separating at least a portion of the ribbon to form adhesive strips, after which the strip of adhesive, the material and the head are engaged to effect deposition of the activated adhesive strip onto the material. In a third embodiment, the ribbon is engaged by a feed pulley and directed toward a revolving wheel rotatably interconnected with the feed pulley.

Abstract: In an apparatus for and method of depositing adhesive strips, a ribbon including a layer of adhesive is directed along a predetermined input path. In the first two embodiments, the ribbon is engaged between a measuring roller and a driven roller responsive thereto, and fed into positioning structure. The material on which the adhesive is to be deposited is located between the positioning structure and a head, which can be heated. Separation means is provided adjacent the input path for selectively separating at least a portion of the ribbon to form adhesive strips, after which the strip of adhesive, the material and the head are engaged to effect deposition of the activated adhesive strip onto the material. In a third embodiment, the ribbon is engaged by a feed pulley and directed toward a revolving wheel rotatably interconnected with the feed pulley.

Abstract: In a method of constructing pockets, a pocket blank is preferably folded first along both longitudinal edges, and then transversely so that the edges are inside the two resultant pocket panels. The inner pocket panel is adhesively secured to the inside of a garment, followed by formation of a slit of predetermined shape in the adhesive connection therebetween. The edges of the slit are then folded back and adhesively secured to produce a pocket slot. Preferably, a pocket welt is secured next across the bottom of the slot. If desired, another welt or a pocket flap can be secured across the top of the slot followed by placement of a facing strip thereover. Stitched bar tacks are then provided adjacent the slot, after which the pocket panels are closed and sealed to complete construction of the pocket.In another embodiment, a pocket blank is positioned beneath a pocket opening formed in the garment panel. The lower edge of the opening is then folded back and adhesively secured to one end of the pocket blank.

Abstract: An apparatus (10) for incorporating a pocket bag (30) into a garment panel (84) includes several operational stations (12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24). The pocket bag (30) and the garment panel (84) are held in place by a manually moveable template (44). The pocket bag (30) and garment panel (84) are adhesively interconnected at the first station (12). A slit (122) is formed at the second station (14). The edges of the slit (122) are folded back and secured to form a pocket slot (184) at the next two stations (16, 18). If desired, a welt (240) can be installed at another station (20). If desired, a facing strip (268) can be installed over the welt (240) and/or slot (184) at another station (22). The periphery of the closed pocket bag (30) is secured at the last station (24), after which the panel (84) can be assembled into a garment.

Abstract: An apparatus (10) for providing stitching along the edges of material panels on a semi-automatic basis includes a sewing machine (28) and a material locator assembly (30). The locator assembly (30) incorporates a guide member (62) with a predetermined guide edge for engaging the edges of the material panels prior to sewing. Sensor (46) senses the presence of a material panel in proximity with the sewing machine (28). Sensor (70) senses engagement with guide member (62) by a material panel. A clamp assembly (122) selectively immobilizes each material panel after sewing and before collection by stacker assembly (34). Preferably, air flow is directed through ports (50) formed in a portion of the working surface adjacent to the sewing machine (28) to facilitate advancement of each material panel.