Abstract: The present invention provides a process by which smoothness, body and a permanent wave pattern can be imparted to multi-textured hair of all types, from hair having an excessively tightly curled appearance, such as Negroid hair, to hair having a straight appearance, such as Caucasian hair, with substantially less damage to the hair. The process of the present invention uniquely combines the use of two hair structure altering chemicals--an alkaline hydroxide (such as sodium hydroxide) and a thioglycolate reducing agent (preferably ammonium thioglycolate)--to harmoniously bring about a desired wave pattern in the hair. Using the Wave Balance Scale (a hair reference scale) of the present invention, a sodium hydroxide formulation is chosen based on the type and natural curl level of the hair. The sodium hydroxide formulation is applied to the hair for a time sufficient to relax the natural curl in the hair by breaking some of the sulfide bonds in the hair.