Abstract: An article of apparel having an improved collar and/or lapel structure, as well as the method of making same, and the patterns for making same. A collar made from a unitary pattern piece is provided for a garment, the collar being double-layered and having a seam extending from each tip thereof to a base thereof between edges forming each tip. Such a seam acts as a stay, and prevents the tip from curling, and also provides a desirable look. Right and left lapels are each constructed from unitary pattern pieces separate from the collar and garment body portion, and each lapel tip includes a seam formed on the underside of a double-layer portion of the lapel, extending from the tip toward a terminal edge of the lapel underside, disposed between the edges forming the tip. The terminal edge of each lapel underside is attached to a terminal edge of the body portion, or a yoke portion thereof. Join seams may be employed.