Abstract: Methods and compositions for improving the appearance of skin are provided. The methods and compositions are especially suited for improving sallow-looking skin by enhancing bilirubin degradation in skin. The methods and compositions herein utilize one or more sucrose esters, which demonstrate a surprising ability to reduce bilirubin levels. The method involves applying a skin care composition containing an effective amount of a sucrose ester to a target portion of skin where a reduction in bilirubin level is desired.

Abstract: An improved method of treating a skin barrier condition is disclosed. The method involves identifying a target portion of skin on a person where treatment is desired and applying a low-pH composition to the target portion of skin. The low-pH composition contains an effective amount of a vitamin B3 compound and has a pH of less than 5.0.

Abstract: Cellular energy levels in skin cells affected by oxidative stress can be improved through the use of a skin care composition that includes a sucrose ester and a fatty alcohol present at a specific ratio. The fatty alcohol and sucrose ester, when incorporated into a skin care composition at a specific ratio, can provide a synergistic improvement in cellular ATP level for skin cells suffering from the effects of oxidative stress.

Abstract: Low pH cosmetic compositions and methods for improving the appearance of skin. The low pH cosmetic compositions herein include a saccharide and, optionally, one or more additional skin care actives to improve the appearance of skin. The lower pH reduces or even eliminates some of the skin health and appearance drawbacks associated with saccharide induced glycation.

Abstract: An improved connectivity mapping method for identifying connections between a potential skin care agent associated with an instance and genes associated with a skin hyperpigmentation condition. The system includes a non-transitory computer readable medium having a plurality of instances stored thereon, and a biased gene expression signature associated with a skin condition. The biased condition signature is constructed by filtering an unbiased condition signature through a benchmark signature.

Abstract: A method of making a skin composition that includes an effective amount of skin care agent selected to inhibit HMGB1 stimulation of human melanocytes. The method includes determining the level of high-mobility group protein B1 (HMGB1), messenger RNA associated with the expression and/or regulation of HMGB1 (HMGB1 mRNA), and/or micro-RNA associated with the expression and/or regulation of HMGB1 (HMGB1 miRNA) present in the test sample, and identifying the test agent as a skin tone agent when there is no increase in HMGB1 level, a downregulation in transcription of HMGB1 mRNA, and/or an upregulation of HMGB1 miRNA. The method also includes identifying a test agent as a skin tone agent when the test agent inhibits or prevents an increase in melanocyte dendricity and/or body size caused by HMGB1, and incorporating the skin tone agent in a dermatologically acceptable carrier.

Abstract: A cosmetic composition for topical application to skin is provided. The cosmetic composition includes vitamin B3 compound, a ricinoleate compound and a dermatologically acceptable carrier. The vitamin B3 compound and the ricinoleate beneficially or even synergistically up-regulate proteasomal protease activity as evidenced by a higher observed net luminescence value relative to the calculated net luminescence value in B16 melanoma cells.

Abstract: Human skin tissue sample methods and models for validating hypotheses for mechanisms driving skin pigmentation as well as methods for driving skin pigment levels in ex-vivo skin tissue. The method includes providing a first cultured human skin tissue sample and testing the effectiveness of the test agent for driving skin pigmentation, and comparing the transcriptional profile generated from the treated human skin tissue sample to the transcriptional profile of a control to validate the hypothesis that the test agent drives skin pigmentation.