Jewelry having a pave mounted gem stone

Abstract

A jewelry article in which one or more gem-stones of non-circular cross-sectional shape may be mounted within a metal framework forming part of the jewelry article. In each case, each gem-stone, including for example, square gem-stones, baguette gem-stones, and the like, may be readily and suitably retained within the metal framework by pavé mounting where portions of the metal are raised and effectively engage the gem-stone and slightly bend over the gem-stone to retentively hold the gem-stone in a cavity formed in the metal.

Description

RELATED APPLICATIONS

This application is based on and claims for priority U.S. provisional patent application Ser. No. ______, in the name of Harout Dagesian et al., filed Sep. 22, 2005, for JEWELRY HAVING A PAVÉ MOUNTED GEM STONE

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

1. Field of the Invention

This invention relates in general to certain new and useful improvements in jewelry articles having one or more pavé mounted gem-stones in a metal framework forming part of the jewelry article, as well as a method of mounting gem-stones, which may be of other than circular cross-sectional shape, in a recess in the metal framework of the jewelry article.

2. Brief Description of Related Art

Jewelry articles containing a metal framework, such as in rings, bracelets and the like, are constructed so as to hold and display one or more gem-stones. In the case of a ring, the metal framework is a ring-shaped piece of metal, which may be formed in such matter that a cavity is presented at the top portion thereof and a gem-stone is mounted in that cavity. In many cases, a plurality of cavities are formed at the upper portion of the article, such as the ring, and gem-stones of differing sizes are mounted in the cavities.

Gem-stones are cut in a variety of shapes and sizes to accommodate the design which is attempted to be achieved by a user. Thus, in some cases, the gem-stone may be a square-shaped stone, or a circularly shaped stone. The gem-stone may also adopt the form of a rectangularly-shaped stone, or so-called “baguette” gem-stone or an octagon-shaped gem stone or any other shape for a jewelry article. In each case, the metal framework is constructed with a recess to accommodate the gem-stone, and some means of holding the gem-stone in that recess is provided. The metal framework may be that of a ring-shaped structure for rings, or it may be in the form of one or more arcuately shaped band sections, which together form a ring constituting a bracelet or an anklet (bracelet for the ankle). Moreover, the metal framework may also constitute a plurality of links, which together, form a somewhat flexible bracelet or anklet, or for that matter, even a necklace. The jewelry article in the invention may be in any form, such as a pendant or a pair of earrings. The metal framework may be formed in such manner as to form the frame to be the jewelry article, or otherwise, it may merely serve as the vehicle to hold one or more gem-stones, as aforesaid.

There are numerous known techniques for mounting gem-stones into the metal framework. However, among these known numerous techniques, are the pavé setting, the channel setting and the so-called “invisible setting”. The pavé setting has been primarily used for circularly-shaped stones, and the channel setting and the invisible setting have been used largely with non-circularly shaped gem-stones, such as square shaped gem-stones and baguette shaped stones.

The pavé setting relies upon the formation of two or more prongs, equally spaced around the circularly-shaped gem-stone and which are bent over the upper portion of the gem-stone, (commonly referred to as the “head” or “crown” of the gem-stone) and hold the same in the recess. In the channel setting, a recess is also formed to receive this gem-stone, and which recess is bounded by at least a pair of opposed oppositely facing walls. The gem-stone has an anchoring portion which sits below the surface of the metal and is provided with edges to snap into edges formed in opposite walls of the metal. The upper surface of the metal surrounding the head usually has a bevel and this beveled surface forms an outwardly projecting peripheral edge on the stone, such that the stone is forced to snap-fit in the recess.

The invisible setting, commonly used with the square shaped gem-stone, is used when the gem-stones are mounted in such manner that each gem-stone has a portion in contact with each other stone. Thus, where a plurality of stones are mounted in side-by-side relationship in a groove in the metal, this method is highly effective. Usually, each gem-stone is cut with a grove on the peripheral side-wall and a ridge on the walls facing the stones are used to engage and extend into these grooves.

There are also numerous other methods used for mounting gem-stones within a metal framework. One method, referred to as the prong setting, forms at least two, if not more, enlarged prongs in the metal which extend over the head of the gem-stone. Usually, the metal is heated to cause the same to extend over the head of the gem-stone and thereby retentively hold the gem-stone in place when the metal has cooled. This is possibly one of the easiest methods to use, but in many cases, is not completely effective in holding the gem-stone in position in the metal framework.

Another method used for mounting a gem-stone in the metal framework is the so-called “burnish” method. In this case, a hole is drilled into the metal framework. No prongs are formed to hold the gem-stone in the metal, but rather the metal is rolled toward the gem-stone until it effectively smashes onto the upper portion of the gem-stone. In substance, the metal forms a bead, which is rolled onto the bezeled surface of the stone and thereby clamps the stone in position in the metal.

A further method used to mount the gem-stone in the metal framework is the so-called “round invisible” method. In this case, the stone is mounted in wax to form a casting. The wax casting, when melted, allows the metal to replace the wax. A groove is formed internally within the cavity so that the metal actually extends into a side of the gem-stone when the latter is mounted within the cavity.

Although there have been numerous developed methods, the pavé method, which many consider to be the most attractive method of mounting a gem-stone, has been used only with round-shaped stones, as aforesaid. It was constantly believed that the pavé method was only effective with round stones and would not operate to effectively hold either a square stone or a baguette stone, or for that matter, any other shaped stone, other than a round stone, firmly within a cavity in the metal. Consequently, the pavé method was disregarded, except for round stones.

The pavé method, however, is deemed by many to be the most attractive setting for the gem-stones. In the pavé method, the metal prongs are formed and can be arranged in a pattern to actually compliment the stone itself. However, since this method has been all but disregarded for use with the other stones, other than circularly-shaped stones, it has found little use with such non-circularly shaped gem-stones.

It would be highly desirable to assume the advantage of the pavé mounting with non-circular stones, and the present invention provides such a mounting, as well as a method of achieving that result.

OBJECTS OF THE INVENTION

It is, therefore, one of the primary objects of the present invention to provide a jewelry article which includes a metal framework and one or more gem-stones mounted therein by the pavé mounting technique in which prongs formed in the metal are used to bend over an upper portion of the stone and retentively hold the gem-stone(s) in position in the metal framework.

It is another object of the present invention to provide a jewelry article in which one or more gem-stones can be mounted within a metal framework in an attractive setting and which will protectively hold one or more gem-stones in a secure position within that metal framework.

It is a further object of the present invention to provide a jewelry article of the type stated in which the pavé method of mounting gem-stones can be used for retentively, but attractively, securing gem-stones within a metal framework to form a ring, a necklace, earrings, or other body part in which a jewelry article can be used.

It is still another object of the present invention to provide a method of securing one or more gem-stones within a metal framework to form a jewelry article and in which the gem-stones are attractively mounted within the metal framework by prongs which enhance the appearance of the gem-stones within the metal framework.

It is still a further object of the present invention to provide a method of using a pavé mounting for non-circularly shaped gem-stones by hand-forming the metal with prongs capable of being bent over the gem-stone in such manner that they attractively retain the gem-stones in position on the metal framework.

With the above and other objects in view, our invention resides in the novel features of form, construction, arrangement, and combination of parts presently described and pointed out in the claims.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The present invention primarily resides in a discovery that a pavé method of mounting a gem-stone in a metal framework can be used for the mounting of essentially any type of gem-stone, including non-circular gem-stones, within a metal framework forming a jewelry article. The present invention also provides a unique method of using this pavé method of mounting the gem-stone to achieve a highly attractive jewelry article.

The term “pavé” has been used to refer to a setting of precious stones in a metal framework so closely that no metal shows. However, the term is also used to represent a type of setting in which circularly-shaped gem-stones, that is, gem-stones which are circular in horizontal cross section, can be mounted in a metal framework by bending prongs or portions of the metal over portions of the gem-stone.

It is known that the pavé method of forming prongs in a metal framework can be used largely to hold a circularly-shaped gem-stone within a metal framework, but it was also believed that the pavé method would be too expensive to utilize with and ineffective for holding a gem-stone within a metal framework if the gem-stone were of a non-circular shape. It remained for the present invention to provide such a jewelry article and a method of mounting non-circularly-shaped gem-stones within a metal framework forming part of that jewelry article. The present invention has provided and has now taught jewelry makers that it is now possible to attractively mount a gem-stone within a metal framework with pavé-type prongs capable of being bent over a bezeled portion of the gem-stone for retentively holding same.

It has also been found in connection with the present invention that it is not absolutely necessary to bend the prongs directly over the bezeled portion or even the head of the gem-stone in order to tightly retain the gem-stone in a cavity in the metal framework. Rather, it has been found that by forming the prongs in the metal, the metal is actually deformed sufficiently so that it actually engages and tightly grasps the side-walls of the gem-stone, or otherwise, the bezeled portion of the gem-stone to physically lock the gem-stone within the cavity formed in the metal framework.

In particular, the present invention thereby provides a jewelry article, and particularly a ring, having a circularly-shaped metal band, or other metal configuration, constituting the framework of the article and one or more gem-stones mounted within this band. The band is formed with one or more cavities, the number of which is designed to accommodate the number of gem-stones to be mounted within the band. The cavities are also preferably formed with a size and shape to generally accommodate the gem-stones.

The present invention shows various arrangements of mounting non-circular gem-stones in a metal framework, typically in a piece of jewelry. The term “metal”, frequently refers to a so-called “precious metal”, such as gold or silver, or the like. The term “gem-stone” as used herein refers essentially to any stone used in the making of a jewelry article, and particularly, although not exclusively, to the so-called “rare gem-stones”, including, for example, diamonds, rubies, sapphires, and the like.

In one embodiment of the invention, there is provided a jewelry article in which a plurality of gem-stones are mounted in a somewhat diamond configuration in a metal framework. Each of the gem-stones are essentially square gem-stones and are mounted in openings in the metal framework, but each opening is arranged so that the center line of the article would pass through opposed points or corners of each of the square shaped gem-stones. In another embodiment, each of the gem-stones are mounted in such manner that they are square in horizontal cross section, but are parallel to one another. In a further embodiment, the gem-stones are generally in the shape of the so-called “baguette” arrangement.

In several cases, the gem-stones are shown as being formed in the metal framework with grooves extending longitudinally along the sides of the gem-stones between the edges of the metal framework. In other cases, grooves and ridges are formed between each of the individual gem-stones and extend generally transversely across the metal framework. Generally, the grooves, and for that matter, the ridges, are actually formed by using metal to form the prongs which extend over and hold the gem-stone within an opening in the metal framework.

In accordance with this construction, it has been found that the metal actually serves as more than a mere holder of the gem-stone, but cooperates with the shape of the gem-stone to further enhance the appearance of the jewelry article. Thus, the actual formation of the grooves and the ridges, along with the prongs of metal used to hold the gem-stone, become blended so that there is a more attractive appearance.

The jewelry article of the invention can broadly be described as one in which a gem-stone of non-circular shape may be mounted by the pavé mounting technique. In this case, the article comprises a metal framework having an initially flat surface, except for the presence of gem-stone mounting openings. A gem-stone of non-circular cross-sectional shape is located in each of the gem-stone mounting openings. A plurality of projections are formed in the metal face and forming the metal framework. Further, a portion of each of the projections are bent to engage a surface portion of the gem-stone having a generally upwardly presented surface configuration so as to tightly hold the gem-stone in an opening in which the gem-stone is located.

The present invention also provides a method of making a jewelry article in which at least one gem-stone is mounted in a metal framework. The method comprises forming openings in the metal framework for each of the gem-stones, and thereafter locating an individual gem-stone in each opening. In one important aspect of the invention, the gem-stone is non-circular in cross-sectional shape and is typically located in a non-circular opening. The method also involves the moving of metal in the framework in such manner as to form lumps of metal largely in the shape of projections. The method further calls for the bending of the projections over the gem-stone and particularly at the top surface or crown of the gem-stone in order to hold the gem-stone in the opening.

This invention possesses many other advantages and has other purposes which may be made more clearly apparent from a consideration of the forms in which it may be embodied. These forms are shown in the drawings forming a part of and accompanying the present specification. They will now be described in detail for purposes of illustrating the general principles of the invention. However, it is to be understood that the following detailed description and the accompanying drawings are not to be taken in a limiting sense.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

Having thus described the invention in general terms, reference will now be made to the accompanying drawings in which:

FIG. 1 is a vertical sectional view of a prior art mounting of a gem-stone within a metal framework;

FIG. 2 is a top plan view of the prior art gem-stone of FIG. 1 mounted in the metal framework, and taken substantially along line 2-2 of FIG. 1;

FIG. 3 is a fragmentary perspective view of a portion of a jewelry article showing the formation of prongs used for holding a gem-stone in an opening in the jewelry article;

FIG. 4 is a fragmentary perspective view, similar to FIG. 3, and showing the bending of the prongs over a crown portion of a gem-stone to hold the gem-stone in the metal framework of the jewelry article;

FIGS. 5A through 5F are a series of successive views showing the actual mounting of a gem-stone in a metal framework of a jewelry article and in which:

FIG. 5A is a side elevational fragmentary schematic view showing an opening formed in a metal framework which will be used as part of a jewelry article;

FIG. 5B is a schematic fragmentary side elevational view of the framework of FIG. 5A with the opening formed in the framework being resized to accommodate a gem-stone;

FIG. 5C is a schematic fragmentary side elevational view showing the fitting of a gem-stone into the opening formed in the metal framework;

FIG. 5D is a schematic fragmentary side elevational view showing the initial step in the formation of a plurality of prongs from the metal framework and surrounding the opening with the gem-stone therein;

FIG. 5E is a schematic fragmentary side elevational view, similar to FIGS. 5A through 5E, and showing the complete formation of the prongs over the crown portion of a gem-stone in order to hold the gem-stone in the metal framework;

FIG. 6 is a fragmentary vertical sectional view, showing the actual formation of the prongs from a piece of metal, as well as the formation of a groove around the prongs, to highlight the gem-stone being set within the metal framework.

FIG. 7 is a fragmentary perspective view showing an alternate arrangement for mounting rectangularly arranged and rectangularly shaped gem-stones in a metal framework;

FIG. 8 is a fragmentary top plan view and showing formation of ridges between square-shaped gem-stones with no longitudinal grooves therein;

FIG. 9 is a fragmentary perspective view, somewhat similar to FIG. 8, and showing the arrangement of projections to hold the gem-stones in openings in the metal framework;

FIG. 10 is a fragmentary perspective view showing the formation of a transverse ridge between a pair of gem-stones in accordance with the present invention;

FIG. 11 is a fragmentary perspective view showing the formation of a serrated upper surface in the ridge of FIG. 10;

FIG. 12 is a perspective view of a modified form of jewelry article in accordance with the present invention;

FIG. 13 is a fragmentary perspective view of the mounting of the gem-stones of FIG. 12 in a jewelry article with a plurality of longitudinally extending diagonally or diamond-shaped arranged gem-stones and the mounting of the gem-stones within openings of the metal framework;

FIG. 14 is a top plan view of the jewelry article of FIG. 13 also showing the projection pattern formed therein;

FIG. 15 is a sectional view taken along line 15-15 of FIG. 14;

FIG. 16 is a partial perspective view showing the formation of lights or projections in the article of 12 using a tool therefor;

FIG. 17 is a perspective view of a modified form of jewelry article in accordance with the present invention;

FIG. 18 is a fragmentary enlarged plan view showing the mounting arrangement for holding gem-stones in the jewelry article of FIG. 17;

FIG. 19 is a sectional view taken along line 19-19 of FIG. 18;

FIG. 20 is a top plan view of a further modified form of jewelry article in which the molds therefore can be computer generated;

FIG. 21 is a side elevational view taken along line 21-21 of FIG. 20;

FIG. 22 is a top plan view of a modified form of jewelry article which can be produced from a computer generated mold in accordance with the present invention; and

FIG. 23 is an exploded perspective view showing one form of computer generated mold which can be used for producing the jewelry articles of the invention.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF A PREFERRED EMBODIMENT

Referring now in more detail and particularly with respect to FIGS. 1 and 2, these figures illustrate a prior art method of mounting a gem-stone of non-circular cross-sectional shape within an opening of a metal framework. In particular, there is provided a metal framework 30, such as a band of metal to form a ring, and a gem-stone 32 mounted within an opening 34 in that metal framework. In this case, the opening is merely a simple opening generally sized and shaped to correspond to the gem-stone. It can be observed that the opening 34 extends completely through the depth of the metal.

Returning to the prior art jewelry article of FIG. 1, it can be seen that each gem-stone has a belt portion 36, which is retentively and snugly fitted within a recess 38 formed in the wall of the metal framework. In this way, the gem-stone is retentively held within the metal framework. Moreover, it can be seen by reference to FIG. 2 that this belt portion 36 extends completely around the wall of the opening 38.

It should be recognized that the prior art technique for mounting the gem-stone is one of several prior art techniques which have been used. However, it is interesting in that with the gem-stone of FIGS. 1 and 2, that is a gem-stone of non-circular cross-sectional shape, the gem-stone is never mounted with prongs, as in the pavé method in the prior art. Rather, the gem-stone is always mounted by using the belt portion snugly pushed into the metal framework. This has a disadvantage in that the gem-stone is not as tightly held within the opening, as in accordance with the present invention, and moreover, it does not have the added advantage of the increased aesthetic cooperation between the metal and the gem-stone.

Referring now to FIGS. 3 and 4 of the drawings, there is shown a jewelry article 40 in accordance with the present invention. This jewelry article 40 is comprised of a metal framework, such as a band of metal 42, with an opening 44 formed within the metal framework. In the framework of FIG. 3, there is no gem-stone shown as being mounted within the framework. Initially, after the metal framework is formed in a desired shape, the openings 44 are formed in the metal framework, typically by drilling, or the like. The openings extend fully through the framework and open on the opposite side thereof.

A plurality of projections 46 are formed around each of the openings, in the manner as shown, and are essentially in the form of mounds of metal. Thereafter, the mounds of metal are effectively shaped into types of projections. After the gem-stone is inserted into the opening 44, the prongs can be bent over. FIG. 4 shows a gem-stone 48 mounted within the opening and would initially have an upper surface which is flat with and essentially coextensive with an upper surface 50 of the metal framework.

In one of the important aspects of the invention, the gem-stone typically is provided with a belt region, such as the belt portion 36, as shown in FIG. 1. For this purpose, the opening 44 is shown as being formed with a recess 52 (FIG. 3) to receive that belt portion. In actuality, even if the peripheral recess 52 were not perfectly formed, the belt of the gem-stone would force the softer metal apart to effectively sit in the recess. In this way, the gem-stone is tightly held within the opening because of the belt portion extending into the recess 52 and also because of the overlying engagement of the prongs 46.

FIGS. 5A through 5F show the actual technique of mounting the gem-stone within the opening of a metal framework. Initially, the metal framework, such as the band of metal 42, is formed with the opening 44. By reference to FIG. 5A, it can be observed that the openings are actually formed with tapered side walls 45. Moreover, the openings extend completely through the thickness of the metal, that is, from the top surface to the bottom surface, as shown in FIG. 5A. Thereafter, some of the metal in the opening is necessarily removed in order to ensure that the gem-stone fits within the opening 44.

FIG. 5B schematically shows the removal of some of the metal at 47. In addition, a peripherally extending groove or recess 60 is also formed in the side wall of the opening 44, as shown in FIG. 5D. Thereafter, the portions of the metal may be pushed upwardly to form mounds, such as mounds 56, as shown in FIG. 5D. Thereafter, when the gem-stone, such as a gem-stone 48, is inserted in the opening 44, the gem-stone 48 will have a belt region 58, which will be forced into the recess 60 in the side wall of the opening 44.

The metal mounds can be more specifically formed in the shape of prongs 62 by using some of the metal in the area surrounding the gem-stone and thereby forming recesses 60 surrounding the gem-stone. However, it is to be noted that the gem-stone has an upper flat surface 64, which becomes essentially parallel to an upper surface 66 of the metal framework. Finally, as a last stage, the prongs 62 are fully bent over, as shown in FIG. 5F. Moreover, if desired, the grooves 64 can be pronounced to further enhance the appearance of the stone. It is not necessary to form the groove 60 around the gem-stone. In essence, material can be pushed from a region further beyond the groove, such that the metal prongs are still formed.

FIG. 6 illustrates an embodiment of the invention in which there is a formation of a deep groove 70. In this case, the groove extends completely around the prongs 62. Moreover, FIG. 6 literally illustrates the cleaning out of metal from the groove 70 by means of a tool 72. The point of the tool is forced into the groove and literally cleans out any metal fragments which may be remaining within the groove 70. This forms a clean looking groove so as to enhance the appearance of the stone 48, which is surrounded by that groove.

FIG. 7 illustrates an embodiment of the invention in which a plurality of generally square-shaped stones 74 are mounted within a metal framework 76. In this case, it can be observed that each of the square-shaped stones are arranged parallel to one another and with respect to edges 78 of the metal framework. When examining FIGS. 7 and 8, it can be observed that each gem-stone 74 is flush with the surface of the metal framework 76, and in addition, prongs 80 extend over the crown portion of the gem-stone. These prongs are shown as being somewhat arcuately shaped. In actuality, it is only necessary to create the prongs so that they are similar in size and shape and arranged in an equally spaced pattern around the stone.

FIG. 7 more fully illustrates the embodiment of the invention in which the generally square-shaped stones 74 are held within the metal framework 76 by means of two pairs of prongs. In this case, each gem-stone 74 is slightly spaced with respect to the next adjacent gem-stone, in the manner as shown in FIG. 8. Moreover, only four prongs 80 are used at corners of each of the gem-stones 74. In this embodiment, there are longitudinal grooves 82 provided, and there are a pair of longitudinally extending edges 84 formed in the metal framework.

FIG. 8 further illustrates an embodiment of the invention having the metal framework 76 and a plurality of square-shaped stones 74 also held by prongs 80. In this case, the construction is similar, and the stones are also arranged in a parallel pattern, that is, each stone has edges essentially parallel to a corresponding edge of the next adjacent stone. In order to provide the metal necessary to form the prongs 80, longitudinal grooves 82 are formed in the upper surface 84 of the framework 76. In this case, the use of the metal to form the prongs results in continuous grooves 82 surrounded by an upper edge 84, which effectively forms ridges around the entire periphery of the framework.

FIG. 8 also shows transverse grooves 86 along transverse sides of each of a pair of opposed stones. These transverse grooves 86 again further set out the individual stones 74 and effectively highlight the same. In addition, metal which is used to form the grooves 86 can be used to form upstanding ridges 88. Thus, the metal from each of the grooves 86 is effectively pushed up to form the ridge 88 and which extends between the longitudinal grooves 82. These ridges are essentially perpendicular to the longitudinal grooves 82.

The actual formation of the ridge 88 is more fully shown in FIGS. 10 and 11 of the drawings. In this case, it can be observed that the grooves 86 are located on each of the opposite sides of the ridge 88. In addition, and if desired, the upper surface of the ridge 88 can also be serrated, that is, formed with an irregular surface 90, by means of a tool 92 having a roller 94 specifically designed to create the surface configuration, as shown in FIG. 11. Thus, when the roller is moved over the upper surface of the ridge, individual serrations are formed in the upper surface of the ridge.

FIG. 12 illustrates an embodiment of the invention in which a diamond-shaped pattern of square gem-stones is provided. In this case, there is a so-called “metal framework” 90 in the shape of a ring initially provided with a large number of openings sized to receive gem-stones 92. It can be seen that these gem-stones are arranged diagonally with respect to the longitudinal axis of the band and therefore are in the diamond-shaped pattern, that is, where points of one gem-stone abut against points of the next adjacent gem-stone. Each of the gem-stones 92 are retained in the respective openings by means of prongs, in the manner as previously described. However, here, there are a pair of prongs 96 at each of the opposite ends of each gem-stone. Where the points of two gem-stones meet, there will be a total of six prongs with two of the points holding the sides of one gem-stone and two of the opposite prongs 96 spaced therefrom at the corner of the opposite gem-stone. The pair of prongs 94 are for aesthetics. Thus, essentially, six individual prongs are used at each of the opposite ends of a pair of the gem-stones, in the manner as shown in FIGS. 12 and 13 of the drawings.

At the point where two gem-stones meet, two of the prongs are also bent over each of the ends of the individual gem-stones, such as specifically shown in FIG. 13. Again, a tool 98 of the type shown in FIG. 16 can be used to form and to bend the prongs so that they engage and hold the gem-stones in their respective openings.

The remaining prongs 94 which do not necessarily physically engage the gem-stones are present for aesthetic purposes and to essentially balance the prongs which are formed and used in the holding process.

By further reference to FIG. 13, it can be observed that the gem-stones 92 are placed in the metal framework 90 in such manner that they are closely bounded by a pair of rims 98 on each of the opposite sides of the metal framework 90. In the embodiment of the invention, as shown in FIG. 14, the rims are actually integral with recesses 100 formed along each of the opposite longitudinal margins. In effect, the rims are used to supply metal in order to form the prongs 94 and 96. By reference to FIG. 15, it can be seen that the rims 98 actually merge into the grooves 100. As the grooves 100 are formed, the individual mounds of metal, which are displaced, form the prongs 94 and 96, in the manner as best shown in FIG. 15.

Although FIG. 15 does not show the prongs as being bent over the individual gem-stones, it should be understood that these prongs would be so arranged in order to hold the various gem-stones in their positions in the metal framework of the ring.

An alternate embodiment of a jewelry article 110, is shown in FIGS. 17-19. Again, the article is provided with a metal framework 112 having a plurality of baguette gem-stones 114 which are longitudinally aligned and each of which is spaced slightly from or even abutting the next adjacent gem-stone in the framework 112. In this case, four actual prongs 116 are used to hold each individual gem-stone 114 within their respective openings 118. However, for purposes of aesthetics, an additional prong 120, or upstanding mound 110, can be provided, specifically as shown in FIGS. 17 and 18 of the drawings.

By reference to FIG. 19, it can be seen that the jewelry article 110 may be in the form of an initially rectangular band having openings 118 sized to receive the individual gem-stones 114. However, in order to form the necessary prongs 116 and 120, a portion of the metal is removed to form grooves 122, as shown in FIG. 19. These grooves 122, which surround the gem-stone 114, provide longitudinally extending rims 124. The use of the grooves 122 actually highlights the gem-stones and simultaneously provides the necessary metal to form the individual prongs 116 and 120.

It should be recognized that the above mounting arrangements are only a limited number of mounting arrangements which can be used in accordance with the present invention. One of the important facets, as indicated above, is that the gem-stones are mounted by the pavé mounting method, even though they are of non-circular cross-sectional shape, and even more particularly, square or rectangular cross-sectional shape. In addition, the various mounting arrangement, as shown in the drawings, are also unique and lend to an attractively designed jewelry article. However, it should thus be obvious that other gem mounting arrangements, and that other means for holding the gem-stones in place, can be employed in accordance with the teachings of these embodiments of the invention.

FIGS. 20 and 21 illustrate one form of jewelry article which can be produced in a mold which can be computer generated pursuant to the present invention. The jewelry article of FIG. 20 is designated by reference number 140 and is comprised of a metal band 142 having openings 144 for receiving gem-stones. In the article as shown in FIG. 20, no gem-stones are yet mounted within the band. However, the openings 144 are sized for receipt of gem-stones. In this case, the gem-stones would still be rectangularly shaped gem-stones, or for that matter, baguette gem-stones.

In accordance with the mold used to produce the article 140, individual bits or projections 144 are formed at the edges in the mold process where they would normally overly the gem-stone. In this particular case, the projections are conveniently and accurately formed during the molding operation. Thereafter, when the gem-stones are inserted in the respective openings 144, the projections 146 are bent over to retentively hold the gem-stones 148 in the respective openings 144.

FIG. 22 illustrates a modified form of jewelry article 150 in the nature of, for example, an earing, having a center hub 152 with an opening 154 to receive a gem-stone 148. The article is also provided with four quadralaterally arranged outwardly extending arms 156, and each of which is provided with openings 158 again sized to receive gem-stones. Surrounding each of the openings 158 are upstanding projections 160. This entire article is suitably formed within a mold, and in this case, the projections are again upwardly struck so that gem-stones can be inserted in the openings 158. Thereafter, the projections or bits 160 are then pushed over directly onto the top of the gem-stone in order to retentively hold same.

FIG. 23 illustrates one form of mold which can be generated through computer program instructions. In this case, there is a mold base 170 and a mold top 172. The base 170 is provided with a recess or depression 174 and the top 172 is provided with a downwardly struck projection 176. Moreover, there are a plurality of projections 178 on the top which extend into and form openings in the band of metal, as for example, a ring. In this way, the projections will automatically cause the formation of the openings in the metal when the latter has been poured into the mold.

Furthermore, the molds 170 and 172 would be constructed so that they actually cause the formation of the projections 146, as shown in FIGS. 20 and 22. In this way, there is no need to literally cause the formation of the projections by hand tools. Rather, this is accomplished by forming straight, upwardly struck projections, which are then easily bent over and are allowed to retentively hold the gem-stones in the respective openings.

Thus, there has been illustrated and described a unique and novel jewelry having a pavé mounted gem stone and which thereby fulfills all of the objects and advantages which have been sought. It should be understood that many changes, modifications, variations and other uses and applications which will become apparent to those skilled in the art after considering the specification and the accompanying drawings. Therefore, any and all such changes, modifications, variations and other uses and applications which do not depart from the spirit and scope of the invention are deemed to be covered by the invention.

Claims

1. A jewelry article comprising:

a) an elongate framework of a relatively malleable metal capable of being hand formed with tools;

b) a plurality of individual gem-stones of generally non-circular cross-sectional shape with each individual gem-stone mounted in a respective opening in said framework; and

c) a plurality of metal prongs formed in said framework and extending over the gem-stone mounted in each said opening, such that each non-circular gem-stone is held tightly in said metal framework.

2. The jewelry article of claim 1 further characterized in that each of said gem-stones are rectangularly arranged in said metal framework, such that an end point of each stone face an end point of the next adjacent stone.

3. The jewelry article of claim 1 further characterized in that each said gem-stone is generally rectangularly arranged and is parallel in said framework to the next adjacent gem-stone.

4. The jewelry article of claim 1 further characterized in that each of said gem-stones are baguette-shaped gem-stones and are endwise abutting.

5. The jewelry article of claim 1 further characterized in that each gem-stone has a flat surface, which is initially coextensive with a flat surface of the metal framework.

6. A jewelry article in which a gem-stone of non-circular shape may be mounted by the pavé mounting technique. Said jewelry article comprising:

a) a metal framework having an initially flat surface, except for the presence of at lease one gem-stone mounting opening;

b) a gem-stone of non-circular shape in horizontal cross-section and being located in that mounting opening;

c) a plurality of projections formed in the metal surface and from the metal forming said metal framework; and

d) a portion of each of said projections being bent to engage a surface portion of said gem-stone having a generally upwardly presented surface configuration, so as to tightly hold a gem-stone in an opening in which the gem-stone is located.

7. The jewelry article of claim 6 further characterized in that said projections further comprise:

a) end portions which engage the crown or upper surface of said gem-stone.

8. The jewelry article of claim 6 further characterized in that said gem-stone is mounted in said opening in such manner that:

a) said gem-stone has an uppermost surface; and

b) said uppermost surface of said gem-stone generally lies in the same plane as the initially flat surface of said metal framework.

9. The jewelry article of claim 6 further characterized in that said gem-stone comprises:

a) a peripherally extending belt portion; and

b) said belt portion of said gem-stone engages a portion of the metal forming part of the framework surrounding the opening and which precludes the gem-stone from being pushed though said opening.

10. The jewelry article of claim 1 further characterized in that said jewelry article comprises:

a) an elongate groove extending between an edge of said metal framework and each of a plurality of gem-stones mounted in said framework.

11. The jewelry article of claim 6 further characterized in that said jewelry article comprises:

a) a pair of spaced apart elongate grooves extending between opposite longitudinally extending edges of said metal framework; and

b) each of a plurality of gem-stones are mounted in said framework.

12. The jewelry article of claim 6 further characterized in that said jewelry article comprises:

a) an elongate groove extending transversely between a pair of opposed edges of said metal framework; and

b) an upstanding ridge located in said elongate transversely arranged groove.

13. The jewelry article of claim 6 further characterized in that said jewelry article comprises:

a) a plurality of gem-stones mounted in said metal framework;

b) each of said gem-stones are of a generally rectangular configurations in horizontal cross-section; and

c) a projection at ends of each of said gem-stones and being arranged to hold at least one of said gem-stones in place.

14. The jewelry article of claim 13 further characterized in that each of said gem-stones are arranged in said framework in end to end relationship.

15. The jewelry article of claim 13 further characterized in that each of said gem-stones are arranged in said framework in a layered configuration.

16. A method of making a jewelry article in which at least one gem-stone is mounted in a metal framework, said method comprising:

a) locating a gem-stone of non-circular cross-sectional shape in a non-circularly shaped opening in a metal framework;

b) moving metal in the framework into a plurality of lumps of metal surrounding the gem-stone;

c) hand forming each individual lump into a projection; and

d) forcing each projection over an upper portion of a gem-stone to engage the top surface or crown of the gem-stone and thereby tightly hold same into the metal framework.

17. The method of making a jewelry article of claim 16 further characterized in that each gem-stone has a peripherally extending belt portion, and that each belt portion engages a portion of the metal framework in the opening in which the gem-stone is located and which thereby precludes the gem-stone from being pushed through said opening.

18. The method of claim 16 further characterized in that said method comprises forming a pair of oppositely spaced apart elongate grooves in said metal framework extending along edges of the metal framework.

19. The method of making a jewelry of claim 16 further characterized in that the method comprises forming transverse grooves extending between edges of the jewelry article located between each of the individual gem-stones.

20. The method of making a jewelry article of claim 19 further characterized in that said method also comprises forming an upstanding ridge between each of the successive gem-stones in the metal framework.

21. A method of making a jewelry article in which at least one gem-stone is mounted in a metal framework, said method comprising:

a) providing a mold with a computer generated design for forming a metal framework with gem-stone receiving openings;

b) causing formation of a plurality of upwardly struck projections surrounding openings in the framework allowing for insertion of gemstones therein;

c) locating a gem-stone of a non-circular cross-sectional shape in each opening in a metal framework; and

d) manually bending each projection over an upper portion of a gem-stone to engage the top surface or crown of the gem-stone and thereby tightly hold same into the metal framework.

22. The method of making a jewelry article of claim 21 further characterized in that each gem-stone has a peripherally extending belt portion, and that each belt portion engages a portion of the metal framework in the opening in which the gem-stone is located and which thereby precludes the gem-stone from being pushed through said opening.

23. The method of claim 21 further characterized in that said method comprises molding a pair of oppositely spaced apart elongate grooves in said metal framework extending along edges of the metal framework.