PRODUCTION OF A BRASSIERE AND BRASSIERE PRODUCED THEREBY
A method of manufacture of a brassiere comprising the steps of providing a first substrate layer; providing thermoplastic polyurethane (hereinafter “TPU”) base material; heating the TPU base material to a molten state; providing a printing roller having recesses on its outer surface; transferring molten TPU material into a recess on a printing roller; transferring the molten TPU onto the first substrate layer by rolling the printing roller over at least part of a surface of the substrate layer; providing a second substrate layer; compressing the first substrate layer and second substrate layer together with the transferred TPU in between the first substrate layer and second substrate layer; heating the compressed first substrate layer and second substrate layer to melt the transferred TPU between the substrate layers, thereby bonding at least part of the first substrate layer and at least part of second substrate layer together to form a laminate; cutting the laminate to form a shape suitable for use in a brassiere; and merging the cut laminate to other components to form a brassiere.
The present invention relates to improvements in or relating to the production of a brassiere and brassiere produced thereby. More particularly but not exclusively it relates to the use of a particular method of lamination used in the manufacture of a brassiere, and a brassiere manufactured by use of this lamination method.
BACKGROUND TO THE INVENTIONA large number of brassieres are commercially available worldwide. A vast variety of manufacturing processes and laminating processes are available for the lamination of a wide variety of textiles and fabrics. A high demand can be expected for brassieres which meet the public's general requirements for brassieres, which relate to a wide variety of aspects. In particular, brassieres are required to have the comfort as a second skin, have to be “breathable”, have a high washability (durability), a good textile “hand-feel” and softness, and high stretchability.
Currently, various coating methods are used in the manufacture of lingerie products in order to laminate layers of material together. Some use spray coating methods, while others use dot coating methods. Spray coating methods involve the spraying of a layer of material with an adhesive and/or solvent, and then the application under pressure of a second or subsequent layer of material. This method is disadvantageous, as it negatively influences the breathability of the material layers. The known dot-coating methods include the steps of adhering dots of paste or powder type adhesives to a layer of material, and then combining the application of a second layer of material and the application of water or possibly a solvent to the paste or possibly powder to activate the adhesive to bond the two layers of material together.
However, these currently used processes are disadvantageous in that they may not be environmentally friendly, may not create a satisfactory bond between the layers of material, and may result in the production of garments that are not satisfactorily durable. In particular, lingerie and/or undergarments are required commercially to be washable between 10 and 20 times at 60 degrees Celsius, and for this reason must offer a degree of heat resistance. Current processes may not meet the required standards of heat resistance, wash resistance, stretchability and durability that are required of such a garment.
Further, once the various layers of fabric are initially laminated together by the above processes, lingerie in particular may be subjected to further processes such as moulding processes (such as in a bra cup moulding process) and to which the viscosity of the bonded adhesive used currently may not be suited. Another disadvantage is that the bonded adhesives used currently may not be suited to the production of seamless garments, as they may not create a suitable bond strength between the material layers.
“Melt print” application processes are known. Using these processes, engraved rollers apply molten “hotmelt” Co-polyamide or Co-polyester adhesive patterns onto web-like substrates. The adhesive dots are formed by melting granules in a heating system, and extruding the melted adhesive from an extruder through a heated hose into the coating head with an engraved roller. The extruded melted adhesive is applied into the engravings of the engraved roller by a doctor blade. The melted adhesive in the engravings is then applied to the surface of a substrate by feeding the substrate between the engraved roller and a pressure roller. The dots may be applied in a wide variety of patterns, from regularly spaced dots to regularly spaced rhombic shaped patterns, or any other pattern. A second layer of substrate is then laid over the first layer of patterned substrate, and heat is applied, thereby re-melting the patterned adhesive, causing it to bond to the second layer of substrate.
The advantages offered by melt print processes are that high running speeds are possible, no emissions are given off since no solvents are used, high bonding strengths may be achieved between bonded substrates, a large working width of the substrate is possible, and direct lamination is possible.
In this specification, where reference has been made to external sources of information, including patent specifications and other documents, this is generally for the purpose of providing a context for discussing the features of the present invention. Unless stated otherwise, reference to such sources of information is not to be construed, in any jurisdiction, as an admission that such sources of information are prior art or form part of the common general knowledge in the art.
It is an object of the present invention to provide improvements in or relating to the production of a brassiere and brassiere produced thereby, that overcomes or at least ameliorates some of the above mentioned disadvantages or which at least provides the public with a useful choice.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTIONIn a first aspect the present invention broadly consists in a method of manufacture of a brassiere comprising the steps of:
-
- providing a first substrate layer;
- providing thermoplastic polyurethane (hereinafter “TPU”) base material;
- heating said TPU base material to a molten state;
- providing a printing roller having recesses on its outer surface;
- transferring molten TPU material into a recess on a roller;
- transferring the molten TPU onto said first substrate layer by rolling the printing roller over a surface of the substrate layer;
- providing a second substrate layer;
- compressing the first substrate layer and second substrate layer together with the transferred TPU in between the first substrate layer and second substrate layer;
- heating the compressed first substrate layer and second substrate layer to melt the transferred TPU between the substrate layers, thereby bonding at least part of said first substrate layer and at least part of second substrate layer together to form a laminate;
- cutting the laminate to form a shape suitable for use in a brassiere;
- merging the cut laminate to other brassiere components to form a brassiere.
Preferably, the method may include the step of moulding the cut laminate to form at least part of a breast cup shape suitable for use in a brassiere.
Alternatively, the method may include the step of simultaneously moulding at least part of the substrate layers to an at least partial breast cup shape while laminating the first substrate layer and second substrate layer.
Preferably, the step of moulding the cut laminate may be performed by the application of any or both properties selected from pressure and/or heat.
Preferably, the method may include the step of providing one or both of strengthening and/or padding members;
Preferably, the step of transferring molten TPU material into a recess on a roller may be by extrusion.
Preferably, the method may include the step of layering the first substrate layer, the second substrate layer and the strengthening and/or padding members in a configuration suitable for use in a brassiere before laminating the first substrate layer and the second substrate layer.
Preferably, the strengthening and/or padding members may be laminated together with the first substrate layer and the second substrate layer as intermediate layer(s).
Preferably, the TPU may be solvent free
Preferably, the TPU base material may be in granular form
Preferably, the first substrate layer may be fabric.
Preferably, the second substrate layer may be fabric
Preferably, the recesses on the outer surface of the printing roller may be engraved and/or machined.
Preferably, the recesses on the outer surface of the printing roller may be apertures into a central compartment.
In another aspect the invention may be said to broadly consist in a laminate adapted for use in the manufacture of a brassiere comprising
-
- a first substrate layer; and
- a second substrate layer;
- wherein the first substrate and second substrate have been laminated by means of a solvent-free heated thermoplastic polyurethane printing process, and the laminate has been shaped for application as a part of a brassiere.
Preferably, the laminate is cut into a two-dimensional shape defining at least part of a pair of breast cups with an intermediate bridge member between them.
Preferably, the laminate has been press moulded into a three-dimensional shape defining at least part of a pair of breast cups.
Preferably, the laminate is shaped to at least partially define fastening straps.
Preferably, the laminate is adapted to be merged with other brassiere components to form a brassiere.
In another aspect the invention may be said to broadly consist in a brassiere comprising
-
- a laminate including
- a first substrate; and
- a second substrate;
- wherein the first substrate and second substrate have been laminated by means of a solvent-free heated thermoplastic polyurethane printing process.
- a laminate including
Preferably, the laminate is shaped for application in a brassiere.
Preferably, the laminate is shaped to define a pair of breast cups connected by a bridge member.
Preferably, the shape of the laminate further at least partially defines fastening straps.
In another aspect the invention may be said to broadly consist in a brassiere formed at least in part by the method as hereinbefore described.
In another aspect the invention may be said to broadly consist in a brassiere that includes a laminate as hereinbefore described.
Other aspects of the invention may become apparent from the following description which is given by way of example only and with reference to the accompanying drawings.
As used herein the term “and/or” means “and” or “or”, or both.
As used herein “(s)” following a noun means the plural and/or singular forms of the noun.
This invention may also be said broadly to consist in the parts, elements and features referred to or indicated in the specification of the application, individually or collectively, and any or all combinations of any two or more of said parts, elements or features, and where specific integers are mentioned herein which have known equivalents in the art to which this invention relates, such known equivalents are deemed to be incorporated herein as if individually set forth.
By seamless is meant the bra is visibly substantially seamless, in that the edges of the bra are finished in a seamless way, for example by ultrasonic welding, or by folding the edge of an outer layer over and affixing it to an inner layer by a non-stitching means, or by some other means that is substantially without seams. Seams may however be found inside the bra structure where it is not externally visible, or at visibly less conspicuous external places such as the region where the shoulder strap is attached to a bra cup region, or the region where hook or eye tape is connected to the chest bands or fastening straps.
Where there is reference to the word “layer” it is to be understood that it may have its common definition and, but not limited to, that the layer could consist of one panel or may have regions that are defined by two or more panels that are joined and that may each be of a different characteristic (e.g. color, thickness, material, orientation, size).
Where there is reference to the word “layer” it is to be understood that it may have its common definition and, but not limited to, that the layer may be of one ply or of more plies of the same or dissimilar characteristics (e.g. color, thickness, material, orientation, size) that are engaged to each other such as by lamination or other in an at least partial overlapping configuration.
The term “comprising” as used in this specification and claims means “consisting at least in part of”. When interpreting statements in this specification and claims which include that term, the features, prefaced by that term in each statement, all need to be present but other features can also be present. Related terms such as “comprise” and “comprised” are to be interpreted in the same manner.
To those skilled in the art to which the invention relates, many changes in construction and widely differing embodiments and applications of the invention will suggest themselves without departing from the scope of the invention as defined in the appended claims. The disclosures and the descriptions herein are purely illustrative and are not intended to be in any sense limiting.
The invention will now be described by way of example only and with reference to the drawings in which:
With reference to the above drawings, a brassiere according to a first aspect of the invention is generally indicated by the numeral 100.
In one embodiment the brassiere 100 (as shown in
In another aspect of the invention, it is envisaged that the brassiere 100 will be formed by a manufacturing process as detailed below:
Initially a first substrate layer 120 comprised of for example fabric will be provided (as shown in
The first substrate layer 120 is rolled between the printing roller 310 and a pressure roller 312, thereby transferring the molten TPU 300 to the first substrate layer 120 in the same pattern that it is received into the recesses 320 on the printing roller 310. It is envisaged that the TPU material 300 that has been transferred onto the first substrate layer 120 will be allowed to cool at this stage, thereby solidifying in the printed pattern. However, the TPU material 300 may not necessarily be allowed to cool and solidify, and may remain molten.
In one embodiment strengthening and/or padding members 180 (such as bra cup stiffening inserts and the like, which will be apparent to a person skilled in the art) are then disposed intermediate a second substrate layer 130 (composed for example of fabric) and the first patterned substrate layer 120, with the patterned TPU disposed between the second substrate layer 130 and the first patterned substrate layer 120, and these are compressed together while being heated. It should be appreciated that such strengthening and/or padding members do not necessarily need to be present. For example, the second substrate layer can be applied directly to the first substrate layer without any strengthening and/or padding member being disposed between the two substrate layers. It will also be appreciated that if desired, the second substrate layer or any of the strengthening and/or padding members may also be coated with TPU in a similar manner.
The heat (shown as arrows A in
In a preferred embodiment the laminate 110 is then cut into a shape defining a pair of beast cups joined by an intermediate bridge (or alternatively into any shape defining a single breast cup or any other single or combined component of a brassiere). At this stage, the laminate 110 is moulded on a press to take on the shape of a pair of breast cups. It is further envisaged that application of pressure and heat to form the laminate can be carried out in a shaped mould, so that the layers are moulded to form a breast cup shape while lamination of the first substrate layer 120, second substrate layer 130 and strengthening and/or padding members 180 is simultaneously occurring. It is further envisaged that the laminate 110 may be shaped in a mould to a breast cup shape before cutting of the laminate 110. The order of these operations is not important.
This cut laminate 110 is used as a component to form a brassiere 100, by merging and attaching various other typical components, such as hooks and eyes 200, straps 210 and bows 220 to it.
In this manner, the advantages offered by using solvent free TPU in a “hotmelt” printing process to bond substrate layers (for example fabric layers, foam layers, membrane film, etc.) together in a laminate for use in the manufacture of a brassiere, may be utilised. In particular, this process offers exceptional synergistic advantages (which are particularly relevant in the manufacture of undergarments) in:
-
- the strength of the bond between layers,
- the washability of the laminate,
- the heat resistance of the bond,
- the softness of the feel of the laminated layers,
- the stretchability of the laminated layers,
- the breathability of the laminate,
- less toxic/dusty working conditions for workers,
- the mouldability of the laminate into breast cup shapes,
- the aesthetic value of the patterned laminate.
Additionally, the applicability of the process to high volume processes, and the ability to insert intermediate layers of strengthening and/or padding 180, makes this process ideally suited to the production of undergarments, and in particular brassieres.
Where in the foregoing description reference has been made to elements or integers having known equivalents, then such equivalents are included as if they were individually set forth.
Although the invention has been described by way of example and with reference to particular embodiments, it is to be understood that modifications and/or improvements may be made without departing from the scope or spirit of the invention.
In addition, where features or aspects of the invention are described in terms of Markush groups, those skilled in the art will recognise that the invention is also thereby described in terms of any individual member or subgroup of members of the Markush group.
Claims
1. A method of manufacture of a brassiere comprising the steps of:
- providing a first substrate layer;
- providing thermoplastic polyurethane (hereinafter “TPU”) base material;
- heating said TPU base material to a molten state;
- providing a printing roller having recesses on its outer surface;
- transferring molten TPU material into a recess on a printing roller;
- transferring the molten TPU onto said first substrate layer by rolling the printing roller over at least part of a surface of the substrate layer;
- providing a second substrate layer;
- compressing the first substrate layer and second substrate layer together with the transferred TPU in between the first substrate layer and second substrate layer;
- heating the compressed first substrate layer and second substrate layer to melt the transferred TPU between the substrate layers, thereby bonding at least part of said first substrate layer and at least part of second substrate layer together to form a laminate;
- cutting the laminate to form a shape suitable for use in a brassiere; and
- merging the cut laminate to other components to form a brassiere.
2. A method as claimed in claim 1, including the step of moulding the cut laminate to form at least part of a breast cup shape suitable for use in a brassiere.
3. A method as claimed in claim 1, including the step of simultaneously moulding at least part of the substrate layers to an at least partial breast cup shape while laminating the first substrate layer and second substrate layer.
4. A method as claimed in claim 1, wherein the step of moulding the cut laminate is performed by the application of any or both elements selected from pressure and/or heat.
5. A method as claimed in claim 1, including the step of providing one or both of strengthening and/or padding members disposed between the first and the second substrate layers.
6. A method as claimed in claim 1, including, the step of transferring molten TPU material into a recess on a roller may be by extrusion.
7. A method as claimed in claim 5, including the step of layering the first substrate layer, the second substrate layer and the strengthening and/or padding members in a configuration suitable for use in a brassiere before laminating the first substrate layer and the second substrate layer.
8. A method as claimed in claim 5, wherein the strengthening and/or padding members is laminated together with the first substrate layer and the second substrate layer as at least one intermediate layer.
9. A method as claimed in claim 1, wherein the TPU is solvent free.
10. A method as claimed in claim 1, wherein the TPU base material is in granular form.
11. A method as claimed in claim 1, wherein the first substrate layer is fabric.
12. A method as claimed in claim 1, wherein the second substrate layer is fabric.
13. A method as claimed in claim 1, wherein the recesses on the outer surface of the printing roller are engraved.
14. A method as claimed in claim 1, wherein the recesses on the outer surface of the printing roller are machined.
15. A method as claimed in claim 1, wherein the recesses on the outer surface of the printing roller are apertures into a central compartment.
16. A laminate adapted for use in the manufacture of a brassiere comprising
- a first substrate layer; and
- a second substrate layer;
- wherein the first substrate layer and second substrate layer have been laminated by means of a solvent-free heated thermoplastic polyurethane printing process, and the laminate has been shaped for application as a component of a brassiere.
17. A laminate as claimed in claim 16, wherein the laminate is shaped to define a pair of breast cups with an intermediate bridge member between them.
18. A laminate as claimed in claim 17, wherein the laminate is shaped to at least partially define fastening straps.
19. A brassiere comprising
- a laminate including a first substrate; and a second substrate;
- wherein the first substrate and second substrate have been laminated by means of a solvent-free heated thermoplastic polyurethane printing process.
20. A brassiere as claimed in claim 19, wherein the laminate is shaped for application in a brassiere.
21. A brassiere as claimed in claim 19, wherein the laminate is shaped to define a pair of breast cups connected by a bridge member.
22. A brassiere as claimed in claim 19, wherein the shape of the laminate further at least partially defines fastening straps.
23. A brassiere formed at least in part by the method according to claim 1.
24. A brassiere that includes a laminate according to claim 16.
Type: Application
Filed: Apr 30, 2007
Publication Date: Oct 30, 2008
Inventors: Guoxian Huang (Kwai Chung), Kam Chau Chang (Kwai Chung), Arnoldus Johannes Maria Berkhout (Kwai Chung)
Application Number: 11/742,152
International Classification: A41C 3/00 (20060101);