JEWELRY ASSEMBLY
A jewelry assembly comprises a shank (30, 70, 110, 156, 172, 198) and a collet (10, 50, 108, 150, 164, 186) and a locking element (26, 28, 46, 48, 64, 66, 92, 94, 105, 107, 152, 162, 166, 170, 182, 184, 196, 202) on each of the collet (10, 50, 108, 150, 164, 186) and shank (30, 70, 110, 156, 172, 198) arranged to mechanically cooperate to hold the collet (10, 50, 108, 150, 164, 186) and shank (30, 70, 110, 156, 172, 198) in a predetermined relative position. Two locking elements (26, 28, 46, 48, 64, 66, 92, 94, 105, 107, 152, 162, 166, 170, 182, 184, 196, 202) may be provided on each side of the collet which are rounded protrusions and which cooperate with corresponding holes in the shank.
The present invention relates to jewelry assemblies and methods of manufacturing jewelry assemblies.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTIONJewelry assemblies, such as ring assemblies, are commonly formed by casting a collet and a shank separately. The collet and the shank are generally moulded from different materials. For example, the collet may be moulded from 18 ct white gold and the shank from 18 ct yellow gold. In order to provide a finished assembly, the collet and the shank need to be held in a predetermined relative position and fixed together for example by soldering. However, owing to the shape of the collet, it is difficult to hold the components in the correct position for the soldering process.
In the prior art, the base of the collet is generally provided with a support bar which provides an extension on either side of the base of the collet and which can rest against the inner circumference of the shank. The support bar can then be used to clamp the collet to the shank whilst the solder is applied to fix the assembly together. Once the collet and the shank have been soldered together, the support bar can be removed by filing it down.
In order to perform the above mentioned procedure, considerable jeweller time and skill is required to place and clamp the collet in the correct orientation with respect to the shank. Slight variations in the relative position or orientation of the collet and shank will have a significant effect on the aesthetic appearance of the finished product. If the collet is designed to accept a diamond or other precious stone to make a high quality and expensive item of jewelry, the slightest imperfection can result in rejection of the entire item of jewelry.
The inadequacy of clamping can also lead to unwanted gaps if the collet and the shank are misaligned, or if the collet and the shank do not fit precisely.
The orientation of the collet with respect to the shank is very important in producing an aesthetically acceptable ring. Accordingly, if it is not clamped in the correct position, the application of solder to secure the collet to the shank can result in an imperfect article that cannot be corrected. This inevitably leads to significant wastage and lower production yield.
The wastage in terms of materials as well as time caused by these problems inevitably increases the cost of production.
In addition to the problem of aligning the collet and shank before applying solder, there is the additional problem that the clamping of the collet to the shank will not be sufficient to prevent the components from moving or rotating with respect to each other as the solder is applied. Accordingly, considerable expertise and professional time is required, but even this can not remove the possibility of errors being introduced at this stage which can lead to imperfect articles being manufactured.
Once the collet and the shank have been soldered together, the support bar still remains as an unattractive and potentially uncomfortable feature on the inside surface of the shank. As mentioned above, it is therefore necessary for this to be removed, often by filing. However, this inevitably results in wastage of some of the expensive material from which the collet has been moulded. In addition, this tidying up process has only a small margin of error. If an insufficient amount of the support bar is filed off, the shank remains with an unattractive bulge below the collet. On the other hand, if too much is filed away, then part of the shank is also removed, adversely affecting the appearance and strength of the finished assembly.
Problems also occur at the casting stage. In order to cast a component, a sprue needs to be connected to a mould to inject molten material which, when cooled, forms the component.
There is therefore always a point at which the sprue connects to the mould, and this point is generally less well finished and an apparent imperfection in the final article. This occurs because the mould is not sealed at the point at which it opens into the sprue, and the edge of the moulded article is therefore often poorly defined. Such an imperfection is most noticeable on the collet, since this is the centrepiece of the ring assembly and is specifically designed for aesthetic appeal.
There are known ring assemblies in which the collet is changeable with respect to the shank. One such example is described in US2007/0056321, in which a ring is formed with a circular body with two angled ends in between which an interchangeable setting can be secured by a tensile force fit. The setting is provided with laterally extending tabs which can fit into slots in the angled ends of the circular body to resist this being ejected by the tensile force fit.
JP8173222 discloses an annular ring member and a rotary stone carrying body, wherein the body is rotatably coupled to the annular ring member. The stone carrying body can be rotated such that any one of a plurality of faces is located as the outer-most face of the ring. In one embodiment, this is achieved by having a cuboidal (square) body which is positioned between two parallel square ends of the annular ring member. The cuboidal body is provided with two laterally extending shanks which extend from the rotary body into corresponding bores in the faces of the annular ring member. Four small protrusions are provided around the shanks which align with recesses in the square ends of the ring to form a ratchet effect by cooperating with corresponding holes in the faces of the annular ring member to allow the rotary body to be clipped into any one of the four positions.
WO 96/33633 discloses a device in which a removable setting for a jewelry item includes a threaded stem and locking pins. U.S. Pat. No. 4,220,017 discloses a component which can be converted into a ring, a pendent, or potentially a brooch by providing a riveting bar which can be placed through the shank and collet to connect them together. JP 11305671 discloses a device in which a base holding a jewel can be detachably connected to a sample body by magnetic means and by their relative rotation to enable two engaging parts to cooperate. DE 1242030 discloses the retention of a jewel which utilises stamped claws that are then held together with the use of an outer ring. U.S. Pat. No. 5,433,090 discloses a ring in which the bead or ball is held in position either by the tensile strength of the shank ends, or by being fitted into notches in the end portions.
It is considered that the above described devices on the whole are not suitable for high value rings which carry high value gemstones. In addition, for rings in which the collet is interchangeable, the features necessary to enable the interchangeability generally impose significant limitations on the possible designs that can be used and are on the whole unsuitable for delicate jewelry items. Furthermore, interchangeability in some devices requires distorting parts of the ring which can lead to permanent deformation.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTIONThe present invention seeks to provide an improved article of jewelry and an improved method of manufacturing jewelry.
According to an aspect of the invention, there is provided a method of manufacturing a jewelry assembly, comprising the steps of:
-
- (a) providing a shank with a first mechanical locking element;
- (b) providing a collet with a second mechanical locking element;
- (c) mounting the collet onto the shank such that the first mechanical locking element mechanically cooperates with the second mechanical locking element to hold the collet and shank in a predetermined relative position; and
- (d) fixing the collet to the shank to inhibit their subsequent separation;
- wherein one of the first and second mechanical locking elements is a rounded protrusion, and the other is a co-operating rounded recess.
Preferably, the mechanical locking elements have substantially spherical or part-spherical shapes.
In a preferred embodiment, at least one mechanical locking element on the collet and at least one mechanical locking element on the shank provides the assembly with a means to hold the two components in a reliable position relative to one another. This is able to address many of the problems previously associated with assembly. It removes the need to provide a support bar since the collet no longer needs to be clamped to the shank when the two are soldered together, significantly reducing the operator time and expertise that is otherwise required to align the collet and shank, and reducing or avoiding the dependency on a clamping device, which can be unreliable. Instead, the collet and shank are guided together by the locking elements into the required predetermined relative position.
In addition, the cooperation of the locking elements preferably serves not just to hold the two components in relative position, but also serves to guide them into the correct position. In the preferred embodiment there is provided a plurality of first locking elements and a plurality of second locking elements most preferably four of each type. In some embodiments, the first locking elements are all located on the shank and the second locking elements are all located on the collet, although it is envisaged that in some embodiments each of the shank and the collet could be provided with at least one first and at least one second locking element.
In the preferred embodiments, the cooperation of the locking elements also leads to a closer fit of the collet and shank, thereby reducing the likelihood of unwanted gaps in the finished assembly. With a cooperating recess and protrusion of similar dimensions, the protrusion is retained tightly within the recess, and the freedom of the collet to move with respect to the shank is thereby inhibited.
In addition, unlike with the support bar of the prior art fitting method, the mechanical locking elements allow the shank and the collet to be positioned only in the predetermined relative position. Accordingly, there is a significantly reduced risk of the collet and shank being pushed out of alignment during the soldering process since the locking elements do not permit movement of two components relative to one another, and in the preferred embodiments, prevents also their relative rotation.
Furthermore, since one of the locking elements is a protrusion and the other is preferably a recess of corresponding dimensions, once the two are engaged they are no longer visible. Accordingly, there is no necessity to file away any part of the ring assembly. Its susceptibility to being damaged after final fixing is therefore also reduced, increasing the manufacturing yield.
In the preferred embodiment the locking elements are able to hold the collet and the shank together before they have been fixed for example by welding or soldering. This means that a user can try the jewelry assembly with different collets or different shanks before the assembly is finished, allowing the user to select the design they prefer without requiring the complete fabrication of a ring in advance. This can thus provide for customisation of a ring.
It has been discovered that many configurations of mechanical locking elements restrict the freedom of design for manufacturing collets and shanks. This is particularly the case when the desired shank is a very thin ring or is a ring in which the shanks splits into a plurality of support bars in the region of the collet.
The system taught herein, by providing the rounded mechanical locking elements, is able to provide mechanical locking elements which can be discreetly placed on even very thin or small support elements and small collets to provide a reliable holding effect before the assembly is finally fixed.
An advantage of the provision of the mechanical locking elements as a ball-shaped (i.e. substantially semi-spherical) protrusion and a corresponding ball-shaped (i.e. substantially semi-spherical) recess, is that the protrusion tends to roll into the recess as the collet and shank are placed together. This means that the locking elements are easy to engage, but also means that the elements are more tolerant to a slight discrepancy in their manufacture, unlike for example locking elements with sharp edges which would require more precise manufacture.
The fact that the recess and protrusion are rounded without corners enables dust and manufacturing residue to be cleaned easily as sharp edges and inaccessible corners are avoided. These would otherwise provide locations for dust accumulation which can prevent the locking elements achieving a snug fit. Rotation of the collet with respect to the shank can be prevented by providing at least two locking elements on either side of the collet to cooperate with corresponding locking elements on the shank. Each set of locking elements provides spaced locking positions which act to prevent rotation of the shank and collet relative to one another.
Preferably, a protrusion is on and integrally moulded with the collet. Since, when assembled into the jewelry assembly, the protrusion is inconspicuously retained within the corresponding recess, integrally moulding the protrusion to the collet means that the protrusion can serve as an effective connection point for a sprue and runner system during moulding. As described herein, the point at which the sprue and runner system connects to the mould is generally an imperfection of the finished article. The present method combines the improvement of the assembly of the collet and shank with providing an inconspicuous point of entry for moulding the collet. This is especially important for the collet, as the collet is the centrepiece of the finished ring assembly.
In one embodiment, the axis of the second locking element is transverse to a major axis of the collet, and the second locking element is provided at the base of the collet. Locking elements transverse to the major axis of the collet can be effective at restricting rotation of the collet about that axis.
Preferably, the step of providing a collet with a second mechanical locking element comprises integrally moulding the collet and the second locking element.
Preferably, the step of providing a shank with a first mechanical locking element comprises integrally moulding the shank and the first locking element.
Preferably, the second locking element is a protrusion, and the first locking element is a recess, and the second locking element provides a point by which a collet mould can be connected to a sprue for injecting molten material.
Preferably, step (b) comprises mounting the collet on the shank removably, such that different collets can be sequentially mounted on the shank, and then soldering a chosen collet into place to finish the assembly.
According to another aspect of the invention, there is provided a jewelry assembly comprising a shank and a collet, wherein the shank is provided with a first mechanical locking element and the collet is provided with a second mechanical locking element, wherein the first and second locking elements are arranged to mechanically cooperate to hold the collet and the shank in a predetermined relative position; wherein one of the first and second mechanical locking elements is a rounded protrusion, and the other is a co-operating rounded recess wherein the collet is fixed to the shank to inhibit their subsequent separation.
According to another aspect of the present invention, there is provided a kit for the manufacture of a ring, the kit including a plurality of shanks and a plurality of collets as herein specified wherein at least one of the plurality of shanks and the plurality of collets includes at least two different designs.
In an embodiment, the kit includes shanks and collets of non-valuable material, such as of base metal or an alloy or a plastics material. Such a kit can be particularly beneficial where the customer is not able to visit the premises where the ring is manufactured or sold. The manufacturer or seller is able to send a plurality of either shanks or collets, possibly in a less expensive base material. The customer is then able to select the combination that they prefer.
Preferred embodiments of the invention will now be described, by way of example only, with reference to the accompanying drawings, in which:
In the following description, examples and embodiments will be described assuming that each of the components is in the orientation as it would be in a ring assembly which is orientated such that a collet is at the top of a shank. However, this is done for facility of description only, the relations between the components being equivalent in any other orientation.
The collet 138 comprises a substantially frusto-conical body 140 and a support bar 142. The collet body 140 is provided with a displaced internal shelf 144 for accepting a jewel stone or precious metal. The support bar 142 substantially follows the arc of a circle and is formed below the base of the collet 138.
The shank 146 is a substantially annular member provided with a gap 148 in which the collet 138 can sit such that the support bar 142 rests against the inner circumference of the shank 146.
When the collet and shank are to be assembled together, the collet can be clamped to the shank by support bar 142. While the support bar 142 provides a convenient means by which to clamp the two elements together, the support bar 142 can slide and rotate against the inner circumference of the shank 146. Accordingly, there can be a problem of tilting and imperfect position, leading to a misaligned collet or unwanted gaps in the ring assembly. It is sometimes the case that the application of the solder is of sufficient force to tilt or move the collet if the clamping is not sufficiently strong.
Furthermore, once the collet 138 and shank 146 have been successfully soldered together, the ring assembly, depicted in
Additionally, since the support bar 142 is moulded integrally with the collet, it is composed of the same high-value material. The filing of this support bar 142 is therefore itself a wastage which adds significantly to the cost of production.
Meanwhile, the problems of low production yield and the consequent wastage of imperfect products still persist.
With reference to
Within the body 12, an inner shelf 20 is provided around the internal circumference of the body 12. A top surface 22 of the inner shelf 20 is slightly displaced into the body 12 from the top surface 14 of the body 12. The inner shelf 20 is also a hollow frusto-conical element extending to the base 16. The base 16 is therefore formed by both the inner shelf 20 and the body 12 and defines the minimum diameter of a circular hole 24 which passes through the body 12 along its major axis.
Extending from the external surface 18 of the body 12 are two locking elements in the form of first and second protrusions 26, 28. The protrusions 26, 28 are preferably diametrically opposed with regard to the body 12 and are both displaced from the base 16 by the same predetermined amount dependent upon the size of the article of jewelry and manufacturer preferences. However, the protrusions 26, 28 are preferably closer to the base 16 than to the top surface 14.
In one example, the protrusions 26, 28 have a cross section which is a square with sides of approximately 1 mm by 1 mm, and the protrusions 26, 28 extend about 1 mm from the external surface 18 of the body 12. However, many different shapes and sizes of protrusion can alternatively be employed provided that they cooperate with corresponding recesses in a shank (described below) to maintain a predetermined relative position of the collet and shank. The protrusions 26, 28 can extend radially from the body 12 with regard to the circular cross-section of the body 12. In other words, in one example the protrusions 26, 28 are perpendicular to the major axis of the body 12. However, protrusions perpendicular to the external surface 18, or that project along some other axis, can be employed in other examples.
Preferably, the protrusions 26, 28 are diametrically opposed such that they are capable of cooperating with recesses located either side of a gap in an annular shank, as will be described below.
With reference to
The top ends 34, 36 of the shank 30 are tapered from the outer to the inner surface of the shank 30 to correspond with the frusto-conical shape of the collet 10. This tapering allows the collet 10 and the shank 30 to be slid together so that the protrusions 26, 28 and recesses 46, 48 described below, form a snap fit. This means that the shank does not need to be expanded by a device exerting radial force on the inside surface of the shank 30 for the collet to be inserted. Such expansion has been found to displace and/or distort some of the components and can therefore compromise the quality of the finalised assembly.
The shank 30 may be provided with a decorative coating 44 on the outermost surface.
Each of the top ends 34, 36 contains a locking element in the form of a recess 46, 48. The recesses 46, 48 are located facing each other and are displaced from the inner circumference of the shank 30 by the same predetermined amount which corresponds to the displacement of the protrusions 26, 28 from the base 16 of the collet 10. In one example, the recesses 46, 48 have a 1 mm by 1 mm square cross-section, and are 1 mm deep, but are in any event arranged to correspond with the protrusions 26, 28 of the collet 10.
In another example, one or more of the protrusions 26, 28 on the collet 10 can be interchanged with its corresponding recess(es) 46, 48 in the shank 30, such that each of the shank and collet is provided with two diametrically opposed locking elements to form two sets of mechanically cooperating locking elements, each set comprising one locking element on the shank, and one on the collet.
With regard to
Two crossbars 58 are provided such that each crossbar 58 connects two adjacent arms 52, and such that the crossbars 58 face each other. Each crossbar 58 is provided with a semi-circular hole 60 through its centre with an axis perpendicular to the crossbar 58. The two holes 60 in the crossbars 58 are arranged to be co-axial. Each of the crossbars 58 is provided with an inset section 62. The inset sections 62 are configured to conform to the surface of an imaginary sphere which rests on the top of crossbars 58. However, different shapes of the inset sections 62 can be employed depending on the purpose of the collet 50, as explained below.
Towards the base 56 of the collet 50, slightly displaced in the direction of the top surfaces 54 of the arms 52, are provided two locking elements, as described in connection with any of the examples of the collet described above, between the base 56 and a point 68 at which the arms 52 separate. In the example depicted in
With regard to
Each of the inner arms 80, 82 substantially continues the curvature of the arm from which it has split. The ends of each of the lower first and second arms 80, 82 are tapered from an outer point 88, which is outer with regard to the radius of the shank 70, to an inner point 90. The inner points 90 are configured to accept between them the base of a tapering collet, and the taper between the outer points 88 and the inner points 90 is configured to correspond to the surface of the collet for the reasons explained in connection with the shank of
At the tapering surface between outer points 88 and inner points 90, each of the inner arms 80, 82 is provided with a locking element as described in connection with any of the examples of the shank described above. In the embodiment depicted in
The outer arms 84, 86 curve away from the inner arms 80, 82 and outwardly with respect to the shank 70 to top ends 96, 98. A support bar 100 is releasably placed between top ends 96, 98. The support bar 100 is a cup 102 with a partial spherical segment inset (not shown) into the top surface, connected to two side supports 104, 106 which rest on top ends 96, 98 respectively. The support bar 100 is configured such that the side supports 104, 106 are able to pass through holes 60 in the crossbars 58 of a collet 50 described above such that the partial spherical segment inset of the cup 102 matches the inset sections 62 of the crossbars 58 to form parts of the same spherical section support capable of supporting a spherical jewel stone or precious metal. As mentioned above, the inset sections can be configured to accept an article which is not a sphere, such as a diamond or polygonal jewel stone.
The shank 70 depicted in
Devices for moulding the collet 50 of the embodiment of
The sprues 118 are in fluid communication with a semi-circular delivery tube which is in fluid communication with a runner 120 via the sprue and runner system 116 main body 122.
The examples described above are described mainly for locking elements of square cross-sections. However, such a geometry of locking elements can still have drawbacks.
One such drawback is that the recess and the protrusion must match each other very closely in order that their corners and hard edges can fit together smoothly. In addition, elements of square cross-section or with other polygonal cross-sections provide corners and recesses which are difficult to access. In such regions, particles of dust, wax or debris from the moulding process can accumulate and restrict the smooth and close cooperation of the locking elements.
Furthermore, polygonal locking elements require a substantial amount of space on the end surfaces of the shank in order to be fitted. Accordingly, they can serve to restrict the freedom of the jewelry designer. Rather than being able to add the locking elements to his design, to a certain degree he must design his jewelry assembly around the required locking elements.
One example in which designs can be so limited is where the designer wishes to use a Tiffany® shank, which are currently very popular in the United Kingdom. These shanks are very thin (at only a couple of mm wide) and are therefore unable to support a polygonal locking element without distorting the final appearance of the jewelry assembly.
In the collet 150, locking elements 152 extend only from outer edges 153 of the end collet sections 154. The locking elements 152 are substantially hemispherical protrusions, in this embodiment, and they extend perpendicular to the side of the collet 150.
The collet of
The hemispherical protrusions can be from about 0.5 mm to about 1.0 mm preferably from 0.6 mm to 0.8 mm, in diameter. In some embodiments, the diameter of the protrusions is greater than 0.8 mm, but the greater the diameter, the greater the restriction on the freedom of the designer for the reasons described above. In some embodiments, the diameter of the protrusions is less than 0.5 mm, but this is less likely to a provide a satisfactory hold.
By providing the protrusions as hemispherical, they can be manufactured smaller than the protrusions of polygonal section described above and can therefore be included in a range of designs. The corresponding recess for these protrusions, described below, is more reliably manufactured and can be included on even Tiffany® shanks, allowing a more extensive choice of shank for a collet with these locking elements.
In addition, the hemispherical geometry allows a greater margin of error in the manufacture of a corresponding protrusion and recess and the ability to finish these, particularly the recesses, by simply cleaning/filing. The lack of sharp corners allows the protrusion and recess to roll into each other smoothly, allowing easier cooperation and a greater tolerance of geometrical discrepancies.
The protrusions do not need to be hemispheres, but could be any rounded shape such as a part of a sphere or other three-dimensional oval or ellipse shape. However, a hemisphere is a preferred geometry for the reasons described above. A further advantage of hemispherical locking elements is that the corresponding recesses can easily be cleaned by a jeweller's ball fraze as this will match the inside surface of the hemispherical recesses to remove any debris which may otherwise restrict the cooperation of the locking elements.
The protrusions (and corresponding recesses) need not be of the same size, for instance there may be provided one larger protrusion and one smaller protrusion.
In one embodiment, the protrusion closer to the base of the collet has a diameter of 0.8 mm; the protrusion further from the base of the collet has a diameter of 0.5 mm.
The fact that two locking elements are provided on each of opposite sides means that each locking element of each side serves to restrict rotation of the collet about the other locking element of that side, further increasing the reliability of the hold in the predetermined relative position when the collet is mounted onto the shank.
The protrusions do not need to be longitudinally aligned; they can be in any configuration in which they do not share an axis of rotation. Furthermore, there can be more than two protrusions on each side 153 of the collet 150.
In some embodiments, there is only one rounded protrusion on each or on one side of the collet 150. However, in such an embodiment, there may be some rotation between the shank and collet when they are placed together.
As mentioned above, the ends 160 comprise locking elements in the form of preferably hemispherical recesses 162. However, these recesses 162 are configured in any appropriate shape, size and location to receive the protrusions 152 of the collet 150 to form a close fit, and can therefore be the inverse of any of the shapes suggested above for the protrusions 152.
As will be apparent in particular from
Where hemispherical recesses are used, the taper of the gap in which the collet is to sit is even more effective. As described above, the hemispherical protrusions easily roll into the hemispherical recesses. The taper allows the two components 150, 156 to slide and clip together easily, removing any requirement for pulling apart or otherwise distorting the shank or assembly which could result in damage or weakening of the final assembly.
As described above, some or all of the locking elements 152, 162 in this or other embodiments can be interchanged such that one or more of the protrusions is provided on the shank 156 to co-operate with a corresponding recess in the collet 150.
Cross-bars 168 are provided but are not provided with semicircular holes as in the embodiment of
Accordingly, the combination of protrusions 166 and 170 provides two locking elements on each side of the collet 164, providing the advantages described with respect to the embodiment of
On the end edges 194 of end collet sections 188 of the collet 186, the annular member 192 is provided with an extended section that closes the gap between the annular member 192 and the side arms 190 adjacent to the end edge 194.
Onto this section are provided two locking elements in the form of protrusions 196, as described in connection with the collet of
A ring assembly is constructed in the following way.
Firstly, the collet and the shank 30, 70 are moulded. In the embodiment of
Once the collet mould 114 is filled with molten material, the material is allowed to cool and harden before it is removed from the mould 114 in a conventional manner.
In the embodiment of
Corresponding moulding procedures are employed for moulding the collet and shank according to other embodiments.
In some embodiments, the collet 10, 50 may then have a jewel stone or precious metal placed on the top surface 22 of the inner shelf 20 or to sit in the inset section 62 and fixed into place using conventional techniques.
The collet 10, 50, 108, 150, 164, 186 is then introduced into its place on the shank 30, 70, 110 156, 172, 198 such that its base faces radially inwards with respect to the shank 30, 70, 110 156, 172, 198. The collet 10, 50, 108, 150, 164, 186 is arranged such that the locking elements of the collet 10, 50, 108, 150, 164, 186 cooperate with the locking elements of the shank 30, 70, 110, 156, 172, 198 as described above. As described, in one embodiment, the locking elements comprise protrusions on the collet which are diametrically opposed and are the same shape and size, and the locking elements on the shank comprise corresponding recesses. In this embodiment, the collet can be inserted in either of two configurations since it does not matter which of the protrusions cooperates with which of the recesses. However, in other embodiments described above, the protrusions and recesses can be arranged so that only one configuration is possible. This can be achieved for example by providing one protrusion and one recess on the collet and the corresponding recess and protrusion on the shank.
The locking elements hold the collet 10, 50, 108, 150, 164, 186 substantially in place with respect to the shank 30, 70, 110, 156, 172, 198. The mechanical cooperation of the collet 10, 50, 108, 150, 164, 186 and shank 30, 70, 110, 156, 172, 198 prevents the collet 10, 50, 108, 150, 164, 186 from sliding in a direction perpendicular to the circumference of the shank 30, 70, 110, 156, 172, 198. The shank itself prevents movement parallel to the circumference of the shank.
As described above, in one embodiment, the protrusions and their corresponding recesses have square cross-sections of the same dimensions which restrict the rotation of the protrusions within their corresponding recesses and therefore restricts the rotation of the collet to reduce tilting with respect to the shank. However, preferably, the protrusions and recesses are hemispherical, and tilting is restricted by providing two locking elements on each side of the collet. However, tilting can also be restricted by other configurations of the locking elements. For example, the recesses and protrusions can be of any cross-section that allows close cooperation of each set of locking elements but arranged such that the two sets of locking elements are axially offset such that there is no common axis about which the collet can rotate.
As described, the collet 10, 50, 108, 150, 164, 186 is at this point held in place with respect to the shank 30, 70, 110, 156, 172, 198 by mechanical cooperation of the locking elements. In the embodiments described, the collet and shank combination forms a ring assembly which can be placed on a user's finger. The user can therefore see the ring assembly as it would appear when finished and can decide whether the design, colour and/or selection of jewel stones or precious metals are what they desire.
If the user decides that he wishes to substitute the collet for one, say, with a different jewel stone, the collet can be removed by separating the sets of locking elements and removing the collet from the shank. The new collet can then be introduced to the shank by repeating the procedure above.
In addition, the user may wish to substitute the shank for a different shank. As described above, an advantage of providing hemispherical locking elements is that the freedom of design is less restricted as such locking elements can also be included on a range of designs including the popular but extremely thin Tiffany® shanks.
One way in which this method of selection may be performed is for a remote sale operation. It can be difficult to select jewelry remotely, such as by mail-order or over the internet, since it can be difficult to tell from a picture whether a particular item will suit or fit a customer.
The embodiments described herein allow a plurality of shanks and/or a plurality of collets to be sent to a customer, possibly in a base metal or other non-valuable material. Owing to the ease with which the shanks and collets with the mechanical locking elements can be interchanged, the customer can interchange the collet and shanks until he finds one that meets his requirements. As explained above, with hemispherical locking elements, the range of deigns of shanks and collets that can be interchanged is greatly increased.
Once the customer has made his selection; he can return the possibly base metal samples and the jewelry assembly of his choice can be assembled, finally fixed, such as by soldering or laser welding, and sent to him. In this way, it is not necessary to manufacture finalised assemblies for every different permutation of collets and shanks that a customer may desire.
Once the user has selected the collet and shank combination desired, the collet is finally fixed to the shank. One method of performing this is by soldering, although other methods, such as laser welding, are possible. Unlike in conventional soldering procedures in which the collet needs to be held by an external clamp while the solder is applied, in this embodiment, the collet is held in place with respect to the shank by the sets of locking elements. The likelihood of the collet shifting or rotating during the soldering procedure is significantly reduced, typically avoided altogether, for the reasons given above.
There do not need to be exactly two locking elements provided on each of the collet and shank. There can be only one set of cooperating locking elements, or there can be multiple sets.
The embodiments have been described with respect to a ring assembly. However, by varying the dimensions and details of the collet and shank, the aspects described above can be used in the manufacture of many sorts of jewelry assemblies, such as bracelet or necklace assemblies.
Features and/or modifications of the various embodiments can be combined or interchanged as required.
Claims
1. A method of manufacturing a jewelry assembly, comprising the steps of:
- (a) providing a shank with a first mechanical locking element;
- (b) providing a collet with a second mechanical locking element;
- (c) mounting the collet onto the shank such that the first locking element mechanically cooperates with the second locking element to hold the collet and the shank in a predetermined relative position;
- (d) fixing the collet to the shank to inhibit their subsequent separation;
- wherein one of the first and second mechanical locking elements is a rounded protrusion, and the other is a co-operating rounded recess.
2. A method of manufacturing a jewelry assembly according to claim 1, wherein at least two mechanical locking elements are provided on each side of the collet.
3. A method of manufacturing a jewelry assembly according to claim 2, wherein the locking elements on one side of the collet are the same.
4. A method of manufacturing a jewelry assembly according to claim 1, wherein step (b) comprises integrally moulding the collet and the second locking element.
5. A method of manufacturing a jewelry assembly according to claim 4, wherein each locking element provided on the collet is a protrusion which is integrally moulded with the collet.
6. A method of manufacturing a jewelry assembly according to claim 1, wherein at step (c) the collet is mounted on the shank removably such that the jewelry assembly is capable of being tried on with different collets and/or different shanks before fixing.
7. A method of manufacturing a jewelry assembly according to claim 1, wherein the rounded locking elements are hemispherical.
8. A jewelry assembly comprising:
- a shank, and
- a collet,
- wherein the shank is provided with a first mechanical locking element and the collet is provided with a second mechanical locking element,
- wherein the first and second locking elements are arranged to mechanically cooperate to hold the collet and the shank in a predetermined relative position,
- wherein one of the first and second mechanical locking elements is a rounded protrusion and the other is a co-operating rounded recess, and
- wherein the collet is fixed to the shank to inhibit their subsequent separation.
9. A jewelry assembly according to claim 8, wherein the collet comprises a tapering outer surface and the shank comprises a corresponding tapering gap to receive the collet.
10. A jewelry assembly according to claim 8, wherein at least two mechanical locking elements are provided on each side of the collet.
11. A jewelry assembly according to claim 10, wherein the locking elements on one side of the collet are the same.
12. A jewelry assembly according to claim 8, wherein each locking element provided on the collet is a protrusion which is integrally moulded with the collet.
13. A jewelry assembly according to claim 8, wherein the rounded locking elements are hemispherical.
14. A jewelry assembly according to claim 8, wherein there are a plurality of each of the shank and the collet and wherein at least one of the plurality of shanks and the plurality of collets includes a design that differs from one another.
15. A method of providing a jewelry assembly, comprising the steps of:
- (a) providing a plurality of collets and a plurality of shanks to a customer, wherein each collet of the plurality of collets comprises a first mechanical locking element and each shank of the plurality of shanks comprises a second mechanical locking element, wherein one of the first and second mechanical locking elements is a rounded protrusion, and the other is a co-operating rounded recess; wherein
- the plurality of shanks and/or the plurality of collets comprises at least two different designs such that the customer can selectively assemble the jewelry assembly in at least two different designs;
- (b) receiving the plurality of collets and the plurality of shanks returned from the customer and fixing a jewelry assembly according to the preference of the customer; and
- (c) providing the fixed jewelry assembly to the customer.
16. A method of providing a jewelry assembly according to claim 15 wherein the plurality of collets and the plurality of shanks provided to the customer in step (a) are provided in non-valuable material and wherein the jewelry assembly in step (b) is fixed in valuable material.
Type: Application
Filed: Mar 6, 2009
Publication Date: Apr 8, 2010
Applicant: IPCS Logistical Support Limited (London)
Inventors: Uriel Joseph (London), Yonithan Joseph (London)
Application Number: 12/399,558
International Classification: A44C 5/00 (20060101); A44C 27/00 (20060101);