PACKAGING AND APPLICATOR DEVICE FOR AT LEAST ONE SOLID COSMETIC COMPOSITION

Abstract

A packaging and applicator device for at least one solid cosmetic composition for application to the eyelashes, the eyebrows, or the hair includes a handle member, a stem connected to the handle member and an applicator member connected to the stem. The applicator member has a core secured to the stem, and applicator elements extending transversely to an axis of the stem from a base secured to the stem to an end opposite to said base, at least some of the applicator elements having their bases disposed inside a solid block of said composition, said block presenting an outer envelope extending part or all of the way around the axis, and situated, prior to first use of the device, between the bases and the opposite ends of the applicator elements, at a non-zero distance therefrom. The composition is dispersible while dry, with or without assistance from heat.

Description

The present invention relates to a packaging and applicator device for at least one care product and/or makeup cosmetic composition for application to the eyelashes, the eyebrows, or hair, including artificial hair or false eyelashes.

The term “cosmetic composition” is used to mean a composition as defined in Council Directive 93/35/EEC of Jun. 14, 1993.

The cosmetic composition may be a mascara, a base coat for making up eyelashes, or a top coat composition for applying on a mascara.

BACKGROUND

In the state of the art, numerous packaging and applicator devices are known for packaging mascara and applying it to the eyelashes. Those devices are provided mainly in two forms depending on the texture of the mascara.

When the mascara is liquid, it is contained in a container provided with a wiper and an applicator that includes an applicator member, and it is applied by taking composition from the container by means of the applicator, with the applicator member passing through the wiper in order to remove surplus composition, and then putting the mascara-impregnated applicator member into contact with the eyelashes.

Application WO 2008/068337 describes a mascara packaging and applicator device that includes a heater device.

When the mascara is solid, a solvent or heat is usually used in order to make the mascara suitable for application.

Thus, publications U.S. Pat. No. 2,007,245 or FR 2 833 163 disclose mascaras in solid form that, prior to being applied to the eyelashes, need to be put into contact with an aqueous phase in order to dissolve some of the mascara.

Application FR 2 733 398 describes a mascara applicator device in the form of an elongate block that is suitable for being dispersed in water. The block may be overmolded onto the brush.

Application WO 2006/057439 describes mascara compositions that are solid at ambient temperature and that are softened with the help of a heater device so as to be suitable for being applied to the eyelashes. Once the softened mascara composition has been applied to the eyelashes, it cools rapidly and thus solidifies, thereby enabling a film to be formed that covers the eyelashes.

Application FR 2 914 161 describes a packaging and applicator device in which the mascara is contained in the form of a stick in a stem and is urged elastically towards a heater device within an applicator member.

Another way of formulating a mascara consists in making it in the form of a block of composition suitable for being applied by direct dry transfer onto the eyelashes.

Devices enabling compositions to be applied by dry transfer are disclosed in particular in publications FR 2 888 735, EP 1 785 055 A1, and EP 1 913 835 A1.

Developing such compositions that are applicable while dry presents difficulties lying in particular in obtaining a block of controlled hardness conditioning the quantity of material that is deposited on the keratinous fibers, the quality with which the material is deposited, and also the speed and the ease with which a user can apply the makeup.

A block that is too hard does not enable sufficient composition to be applied to the eyelashes, whereas a block that is too soft runs the risk of leading to a deposit that is not uniform, possibly leaving unattractive lumps on the eyelashes. In addition, a composition that is too soft hinders making a block that is capable of withstanding impacts and pressure, in particular while it is being applied.

In the above-mentioned applications, the block is in the form of a stick and application takes place via its distal end.

The hand gestures required for application differ from those usually performed by users using more conventional brushes, and that can deter certain users who are in the habit of using conventional brushes from using such devices.

SUMMARY

There exists a need to remedy the above-mentioned drawbacks in full or in part and to benefit from a packaging and applicator device that is easy to use and that gives rise to satisfactory makeup results.

The exemplary embodiments seek to satisfy this need.

Exemplary embodiments provide a packaging and applicator device for at least one solid cosmetic composition for application to the eyelashes, the eyebrows, or the hair, the device comprising:

• • a handle member;
  • a stem connected to the handle member; and
  • an applicator member connected to the stem, and comprising:
    • a core secured to the stem; and
    • applicator elements extending transversely to an axis of the stem from a base secured to the core to an end opposite from said base, at least some of the applicator elements having their bases disposed inside a solid block of said composition, said block presenting an outer envelope extending part or all of the way around the axis, e.g. extending continuously along an angular sector of at least 30° around the axis, preferably all around the axis, and situated, prior to first use of the device, between the bases and the opposite ends of the applicator elements, at a non-zero distance therefrom; the composition being dispersible while dry, with or without assistance from heat. The composition may present shear hardness lying in the range 200 grams per meter (g/m) to 5000 g/m, better 375 g/m to 5000 g/m. The fraction of length of the applicator elements that is covered in the composition on first use may, for example, be greater than or equal to 30% of the total length of the applicator element.

The block extends around all or part of the core.

The term “before first use” should be understood as meaning before the user makes use of the device for the first time. This may correspond to the state of the device when purchased by the user, for example. This may correspond in particular to the device in its packaging or in the state in which it is presented to the consumer, without packaging.

Other exemplary embodiments also provide a packaging and applicator device for at least one solid cosmetic composition for application to the eyelashes, the eyebrows, or the hair, the device comprising:

• • a handle member;
  • a stem connected to the handle member; and
  • an applicator member connected to the stem, and comprising:
    • a core secured to the stem; and
    • applicator elements extending transversely to an axis of the stem from a base secured to the core to an end opposite from said base, at least some of the applicator elements having their bases disposed inside a solid block of said composition, said block presenting an outer envelope extending part or all of the way around the axis, preferably all of the way around the axis, and situated, prior to first use of the device, between the bases and the opposite ends of the applicator elements, at a non-zero distance therefrom; the composition having shear hardness lying in the range 200 g/m to 5000 g/m, better in the range 375 g/m to 5000 g/m.

The projecting applicator elements may extend from the core in at least three different angular directions making angles between them in pairs of more than 60°, better more than 90°, or even 120°.

The term “dispersible while dry” should be understood as meaning that the composition is suitable, at ambient temperature (20° C.) or while hot, for forming a deposit that adheres on and sheathes the eyelashes, eyebrows, or hair without it being necessary previously to put the composition into contact with a solvent phase, and as contrasted with mascaras in cake form that are dispersible in water and that need to be dissolved in part before use in order to be applied to the fibers. The composition may be dispersible while dry at ambient temperature (20° C.) and the device need not be associated with means for heating the composition.

The composition may optionally be heated for application, in particular when it is not dispersible while dry at ambient temperature. Under such circumstances, it may be heated to a temperature lying in the range 40° C. to 95° C., preferably in the range 45° C. to 75° C.

Preferably, the solid cosmetic composition used in the device according to exemplary embodiments presents hardness enabling a composition to be obtained that is sufficiently rigid to be in the form of a block, while having a texture that is sufficiently soft to make it easy to apply to the eyelashes.

The term “solid block” is used to mean a compact mass of predetermined shape that conserves its initial shape in the absence of stress, at ambient temperature, and at atmospheric pressure.

The embodiments present the advantage of retaining the ergonomics and the hand gestures of the conventional applicators that are the most widespread on the market, i.e. comprising a brush or a comb for immersing in a container containing a liquid composition in order to be loaded with the composition, while also providing the advantages that are associated with the composition being in solid form.

The block may present a cross-section of any shape, e.g. circular, polygonal, square, rectangular, triangular, trapezoidal, star-shaped, oval, this list not being limiting. Certain shapes may make it easier to load the composition on the eyelashes by providing a larger contact area between the composition and the eyelashes. The core and/or the projecting elements may act as strength members in certain embodiments, thereby enabling a more fragile composition to be used, the block being mechanically reinforced by the core and/or the projecting applicator elements.

The block may be tubular in shape, e.g. cylindrical, and it may surround the core over its entire length.

The block may be placed symmetrically relative to the longitudinal axis of the core. The longitudinal axis of the block may optionally coincide with the longitudinal axis of the applicator member.

The block may be distributed uniformly around the core of the applicator member. In a variant, the block may be distributed non-uniformly around the core. For example, the longitudinal axis of the block need not coincide with the longitudinal axis of the core of the applicator member, while nevertheless remaining parallel thereto, for example. The block may thus be thicker on one side of the core than on the other.

The block may have an outside surface that substantially matches the shape of the envelope structure defined by the free ends of the projecting applicator elements prior to first use, i.e. so long as the block has not yet been used.

The block may extend continuously all around the applicator member, in particular all around the core of the applicator member, over its entire length. In a variant, the block may extend over only a fraction of the outline of the applicator member over at least a fraction of its length.

The block may optionally be in contact with the core of the applicator member over its entire length, or over only a fraction thereof. The block preferably rests directly on the core.

The block may initially cover the projecting elements in part or completely. For example, on first use, the projecting elements may come into contact with the block over at least 30% of their height, or indeed over at least 50%, 70%, or 90%.

The block may cover at least 20%, or 40%, 60%, 80%, or 90% of the projecting applicator elements, in full or in part. All of the projecting elements may be in contact with the block.

Over at least a fraction of its length, the stem may present a cross-section of a shape that is circular, square, rectangular, triangular, trapezoidal, star-shaped, oval, polygonal, this list not being limiting. The stem may present a maximum transverse diameter, in particular a diameter, that is less than or equal to 6 millimeters (mm).

The core of the applicator member may be rectilinear, curvilinear, twisted, or of some other shape.

The core of the applicator member may include means for facilitating connection with the block of composition. The core of the applicator member may present hydrophilic or hydrophobic properties, or it may be subjected to any suitable treatment suitable for facilitating retention of the block on the core.

The longitudinal axis of the core of the applicator member may coincide with the longitudinal axis of the stem, or it may be eccentric relative to the stem. In particular, the axis of the core of the applicator member may be parallel to the axis of the stem.

The core of the applicator member may be made as a single piece together with the stem, possibly by being overmolded thereon. In a variant, the core of the applicator member may be fitted to the stem, possibly releasably, e.g. by adhesive, snap-fastening, screw fastening, or stapling.

The applicator member may be capable of turning relative to the stem and/or to the handle member. In particular, the device may include a motor, e.g. placed in the handle member, enabling the applicator member to be driven in rotation.

The device may include a cap for covering the applicator member while it is not in use. The cap need not have a wiper member. In a variant, the cap may include a member for cleaning the ends of the projecting applicator elements. The cap may contain a heater system.

The projecting elements may all be of the same length or they may have different lengths.

The envelope surface defined by the free ends of the projecting elements may present various shapes in transverse or longitudinal section, e.g. shapes that are circular, square, rectangular, triangular, trapezoidal, star-shaped, oval, polygonal, this list not being limiting.

The projecting elements are distinct from portions in relief formed at the surface of the solid cosmetic composition in the form of a block.

The projecting elements may be made of a material that is impermeable to the composition. For example, they may be made of a thermoplastic material such as a polyolefin, e.g. polypropylene (PP) or polyethylene (PE), of acrylonitrile butadeine styrene (ABS), a thermoplastic elastomer, a polyamide, this list not being limiting.

The projecting elements may be combing elements suitable for separating the eyelashes. By way of example, the projecting elements may be teeth or natural or synthetic bristles. A projecting element may be in the form of a fine flat blade, where appropriate. The number of projecting elements carried by the core of the applicator member may lie in the range 20 to 500.

The projecting elements may be stationary relative to the core of the applicator member. The block of composition may be movable relative to the projecting elements, where appropriate.

The projecting elements may be distributed at regular or variable intervals along the core. For example, two consecutive projecting elements may be touching or they may be spaced apart by no more than 2 mm.

The projecting elements may present height that is constant or varying. This height, extending between a fastening first end connected to the core and referred to as a proximal end and a free second end may lie in the range 0.5 mm to 15 mm.

The projecting elements may be made as a single piece with the applicator member by molding material or by machining. In a variant, they may be fitted to the core or they may be dual-injected with the core. The projecting elements may be made of a material that is identical to or different from the material of the core.

The block may include at least two different compositions, e.g. enabling the device according to exemplary embodiments to be used for multiple purposes. The two compositions may have properties that are different, in particular in terms of hardness, or they may become fluid at different temperatures. These different compositions may be juxtaposed axially or angularly around the core.

The composition may advantageously be made fluid by applying heat. For example, the composition may have a melting temperature that is less than or equal to 60° C.

The device may thus include a heater system suitable for softening or melting at least the surface of the solid cosmetic composition.

The heater system may optionally be housed inside a housing in which at least part of the packaging and applicator device according to exemplary embodiments can be received. The housing may define a protective cap as mentioned above.

The heater system may include control means enabling the user to control its operation, e.g. to set the heating temperature.

Applying heat to the outside surface of the block in order to heat it may give rise, for example, to a local rise of at least 5° C. in its temperature.

The block may be heated by being exposed to infrared radiation, to radio radiation, it may be heated by blowing hot air, it may be heated by being exposed to ultrasound vibration, or it may be heated by heat transfer on contact with or in the proximity of a hot surface. The hot surface may rest axially and/or radially against the surface of the block or in the vicinity of the block. Where appropriate, the hot surface may be flexible.

The composition may be heated locally to a temperature that is greater than or equal to 40° C., or greater than 45° C., or indeed greater than 50° C. The temperature of the surface of the block must not run any risk of causing burns during application. That is why it may optionally be necessary to have a waiting time between the moment the block is heated and the moment it is applied to the keratinous fibers.

The temperature T_f to which the block is initially heated on its surface may lie in the range 40° C. to 95° C., better in the range 45° C. to 85° C., better still 45° C. to 75° C. The core of the block may be solid while the composition is being applied to the eyelashes.

The composition may present a reversible solid/liquid change of state. The solid/liquid change of state may be due to melting a crystalline portion, e.g. one or more waxes.

Exemplary embodiments also provide a packaging and applicator device for at least one solid cosmetic composition for application to the eyelashes, the eyebrows, or hair, the composition being dispersible while dry and the device comprising:

• • a handle member;
  • a stem connected to the handle member and not having composition for application on the outside thereof;
  • an applicator member connected to the stem and comprising:
    • a core of elongate shape extending the stem; and
    • projecting applicator elements extending from the core, transversely to its longitudinal axis; and
  • a block of elongate shape of said at least one composition covering at least in part at least some of the projecting applicator elements and/or of the core prior to a first application of said at least one composition on the eyelashes, eyebrows, or hair, a plurality of projecting elements being completely embedded in the block over at least a fraction of their height; the composition being dispersible while dry, while cold, or while hot, the device then including a system for heating the composition to bring at least its outside surface to a temperature that makes the composition dispersible.

Other exemplary embodiments also provide a packaging and applicator device for at least one cosmetic composition for application to the eyelashes, the eyebrows, or hair, the device comprising:

• • a handle member;
  • a stem connected to the handle member and not having composition for application on the outside thereof;
  • an applicator member connected to the stem and comprising:
    • a core of elongate shape extending the stem; and
    • projecting applicator elements extending from the core transversely to its longitudinal axis and disposed around the longitudinal axis of the core so as to extend in at least three different directions; and
  • a block of said at least one composition covering at least in part at least a fraction of the projecting applicator elements and/or of the core prior to a first application of said at least one composition on the eyelashes, eyebrows, or hair;

the composition being dispersible while dry, while cold, or while hot, the device then including a system for heating the composition to bring at least its outside surface to a temperature that makes the composition dispersible. The block possibly extending over at least a fraction of its length continuously around all or part of the core and/or being fitted on the applicator member and secured to a support extending over at least a fraction of its length continuously around all or part of the core.

The heater system need not be secured to the applicator member while it is in use for applying the composition to the eyelashes or to other keratinous fibers.

Other exemplary embodiments provide a kit comprising:

• • a packaging and applicator device for at least one solid cosmetic composition for application to the eyelashes, the eyebrows, or hair, comprising:
    • a handle member;
    • a stem connected to the handle member, and not having any composition for application on the outside thereof;
    • an applicator member connected to the stem and comprising:
      • a core of elongate shape extending the stem;
      • projecting applicator elements extending from the core transversely to its longitudinal axis and disposed around the longitudinal axis of the core so as to extend in at least three different directions;
    • a block of said at least one composition covering at least in part at least a fraction of the projecting applicator elements and/or of the core prior to first application of said at least one composition on the eyelashes, eyebrows, or hair;
    • the composition being dispersible while dry, while cold or while hot; and
    • a heater system for heating the composition, the heater system not being incorporated in the device or being separable from the applicator member to allow the applicator member to be used.

Heater System

The heater system may comprise an electrical resistance element. The heater system may comprise an infrared emitter arranged to subject the block to infrared light in order to heat it. The heater system may also comprise means for emitting radio radiation, e.g. microwave radiation, enabling the temperature of the block to be raised. The heater system may comprise a fan for blowing hot air against the block. The heater system may comprise a source of ultrasound for heating the block. The heater system may also comprise at least two components that are capable, on being mixed together, of producing an exothermic reaction. The heat produced in that way may be transferred to the surface of the block.

The heater system may be configured to heat the applicator member over its entire length or over only a fraction of its length. In particular, the block may be subjected to the heat given off by the heater device over its entire length or over only a fraction of its length, around its entire circumference or over only a fraction thereof.

The heater system may be powered by any type of electricity source. By way of example, the heater device may include a battery, or a mains adapter, and it may be connected directly to a mains power outlet, or to an independent electricity generator, e.g. a solar generator, etc. In a variant, the heat generated by the heater system may also be applied mechanically, e.g. by rubbing.

The applicator member need not have a heater system within it, in particular in the vicinity of, or in contact with the block.

The block of composition may be driven to rotate relative to the heater device in order to enable it to be heated over its entire outside surface.

Method

Other exemplary embodiments provide a method of coating fibers selected from eyelashes, eyebrows, or hair, the method comprising the steps consisting in:

• • subjecting said fibers to contact with at least a portion of the surface of a block of composition of a device as defined above; and
  • proceeding to cause the surface of the block and the fibers to move relative to one another so as to cause the block to disperse and a deposit of at least one layer of cosmetic composition to be formed on the fibers.

Application is performed without prior wetting of the block of composition by means of a solvent.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

The invention can be better understood on reading the following description of non-limiting embodiments thereof, and on examining the diagrammatic figures of the drawings, in which:

FIG. 1 shows an example of a packaging and applicator device in accordance with an embodiment;

FIG. 2 is a cross-section on II-II of FIG. 1;

FIG. 3 is a longitudinal section of a variant embodiment of an applicator member of an embodiment;

FIGS. 4 to 8 are cross-sections of other variant embodiments of applicator members;

FIG. 9 is a view analogous to FIG. 1 of a variant embodiment;

FIG. 10 is a cross-section of an applicator member and a block of composition;

FIG. 11 shows an example of a support for the block of composition prior to assembly with the applicator member;

FIG. 12 shows a variant embodiment of composition blocks;

FIG. 13 is a section on XIII-XIII of FIG. 12;

FIG. 14 shows a heater system;

FIG. 15 is a diagrammatic and fragmentary view of a system for reshaping the applicator member;

FIG. 16 is a longitudinal section of a variant embodiment of the applicator member;

FIG. 17 is a perspective view of a variant embodiment; and

FIG. 18 is a cross-section view of a variant embodiment.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF EMBODIMENTS

Composition

A cosmetic care product and/or makeup composition of an embodiment and suitable for application while dry to keratinous fibers may present shear hardness lying in the range 200 g/m to 5000 g/m, better 375 g/m to 5000 g/m as measured using the method defined below.

With such hardness, the composition is sufficiently “soft” to enable it to be applied directly and easily to the eyelashes, in particular it enables material to be deposited merely by making contact with the eyelashes and without exerting exaggerated pressure on the eyelashes.

In order to determine the “shear hardness” of a block in accordance with an embodiment, it is possible to use the “cheese wire method” that consists in cutting transversely through a cylindrical block having a diameter of 8 mm by means of a rigid tungsten wire with a diameter of 250 micrometers (μm), with the wire being caused to advance relative to the block at a speed of 100 millimeters per minute (mm/min). The hardness corresponds to the maximum shear force exerted by the wire on the block at 20° C., this force being measured by means of a DFGS2 dynamometer sold by the supplier Indelco-Chatillon. The measurement is repeated six times. The average of the six values read using the above-mentioned dynamometer is expressed in grams. These values thus lie in the range 3 grams (g) to 40 g, advantageously in the range 4 g to 20 g, and preferably in the range 6 g to 12 g. Thereafter, the value in grams is normalized by the diameter of the block, i.e. 8 mm, so as to obtain a value in grams per meter.

In particular exemplary embodiments, the composition is characterized in that its shear hardness lies in the range 500 g/m to 2500 g/m, and in particular in the range 750 g/m to 1500 g/m.

Dry Extract

In the meaning of the present embodiment, the “dry extract content” designates the content of non-volatile material.

The quantity of dry extract (DE) of a composition is measured by means of a halogen desiccator sold under the name “Halogen Moisture Analyzer HR83” by Mettler Toledo. The measurement is made on the basis of the weight loss of a sample dried by halogen heating and thus presents the percentage of residual matter once the water and the volatile materials have been evaporated.

That technique is fully described in the documentation for the appliance supplied by Mettler Toledo.

The Measurement Protocol is as Follows

About 2 g of the composition, referred to below as the “sample”, is spread on a metal cup that is placed in the above-mentioned halogen desiccator. The sample is then subjected to a temperature of 120° C. for one hour. The moist mass of the sample, corresponding to its initial mass, and the dry mass of the sample, corresponding to its mass after halogen heating, are measured by means of a precision balance.

The values measured using the above-described protocol may differ from the corresponding theoretical values by ±1%.

The dry extract (DE) content expressed as a % by weight is calculated as follows:

$\mathrm{DE}=100\times \frac{\mathrm{Dry}\mathrm{mass}}{\mathrm{Moist}\mathrm{mass}}$

The composition may have a dry extract content DE that is greater than or equal to 45% by weight and less than or equal to 55% by weight, and in particular greater than or equal to 48% by weight and less than or equal to 52% by weight, or indeed greater than or equal to 49% by weight and less than or equal to 51% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

The composition may be in the form of an emulsion, in particular an emulsion having an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, in particular a wax-in-water emulsion. The composition thus has an aqueous phase that is continuous and an oily phase that comprises at least one wax.

Aqueous Phase

The composition may comprise an aqueous phase that may be constituted essentially by water or that may comprise a mixture of water and a solvent that is water-miscible or “hydrosoluble” (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25° C.) such as lower monoalcohols having 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol, glycols having 2 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, C₃-C₄ ketones, C₂-C₄ aldehydes, glycerol, and mixtures thereof.

In exemplary embodiments, the composition comprises an aqueous phase at a content greater than 40% by weight, preferably greater than 45% by weight, and better still greater than 50% by weight, and/or a content that is less than 80% by weight, preferably less than 75% by weight, preferably lying in the range 40% to 80% by weight, and in particular in the range 50% to 75% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition may also contain at least one emulsifier.

Emulsifiers

In an embodiment, an emulsifier is generally used that is selected in appropriate manner for obtaining a wax-in-water or an oil-in-water emulsion. In particular, it is possible to use an emulsifier possessing a hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HB) in the Griffin meaning at 25° C. that is greater than or equal to 8.

The Griffin HLB value is defined in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (Vol. 5), pp. 249-256.

These emulsifiers may be selected from surfactants that are non-ionic, anionic, cationic, amphoteric, or indeed from polymeric surfactants. Reference may be made in particular to document “Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, Kirk-Othmer”, Vol. 22, pp. 333-432, 3rd edition, 1979, Wiley, for definitions of the (emulsifying) properties and functions of surfactants, in particular at pages 347-377 of that reference, for surfactants that are anionic, amphoteric, and non-ionic.

The surfactants preferably used in the composition are selected from:

a) Non-ionic surfactants of HLB greater than or equal to 8 at 25° C., used alone or in a mixture; mention may be made in particular of:

• • the esters and ethers of simple sugars such as the mixture of cetyistearyl glucoside and of cetylic and stearylic alcohols such as Montanov 68 from Seppic;
  • oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene glycerol ethers (including 1 to 150 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene groups);
  • oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene ethers (including 1 to 150 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene groups) of fatty alcohols (in particular C₈-C₂₄ alcohols, and preferably C₁₂-C₁₈ alcohols) such as oxyethylene ether of cetearyl alcohol having 30 oxyethylene groups (INCI name “Ceteareth-30”), oxyethylene ether of stearyl alcohol having 20 oxyethylene groups (INCI name “Steareth-20”), the oxyethylene ether of a mixture of C₁₂-C₁₅ fatty alcohols having seven oxyethylene groups (INCI name “C_12-15 Pareth-7”), in particular as sold under the name Neodol 25-7® by Shell Chemicals;
  • fatty acid esters (in particular of C₈-C₂₄ acid, and preferably of C₁₆-C₂₂ acid) and polyethylene glycol (having 1 to 150 ethylene glycol motifs) such as PEG-50 stearate and PEG-40 monostearate, as sold in particular under the name MYRJ 52P® by supplier ICI Uniquema, or indeed PEG-30 glyceryl stearate as sold in particular under the name of Tagat S® by the supplier Evonik Goldschmidt;
  • fatty acid esters (in particular of C₈-C₂₄ acid, preferably of C₁₆-C₂₂ acid) and oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene glycerol ethers (having 1 to 150 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene groups), such as PEG-200 glyceryl monostearate as sold in particular under the name Simulsol 220 ™® by the supplier Seppic; polyethoxyl glyceryl stearate having 30 ethylene oxide groups such as the product Tagat S® sold by the supplier Evonik Goldschmidt, polyethyoxyl glyceryl oleate having 30 ethylene oxide groups such as the product Tagat O® sold by the supplier Evonik Goldschmidt, polyethoxyl glyceryl cocoate having 30 ethylene oxide groups such as the product Varionic LI 13® sold by the supplier Sherex, polyethoxyl glyceryl isostearate having 30 ethylene oxide groups such as the product Tagat L® sold by the supplier Evonik Goldschmidt, and polyethoxyl glyceryl laurate having 30 ethylene oxide groups such as the product Tagat I® from the supplier Evonik Goldschmidt;
  • fatty acid esters (in particular of C₈-C₂₄ acids, and preferably of C₁₆-C₂₂ acids), and oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene sorbitol ethers (having 1 to 150 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene groups), such as polysorbate 20, in particular sold under the name Tween 20® by the supplier Croda, polysorbate 60 sold in particular under the name Tween 60® by the supplier Croda;
  • dimethicone copolyol, such as that sold under the name Q2-5220® by the supplier Dow Corning;
  • dimethicone copolyol benzoate (Finsolv SLB 101® and 201® from the supplier Fintex);
  • copolymers of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide, also known as EO/PO polycondensates; and
  • mixtures thereof.

EO/PO polycondensates are more particularly copolymers consisting of blocks of polyethylene glycol and of polypropylene glycol, such as for example triblock polycondensates of polyethylene glycol-propopylene glycol-polyethylene glycol. By way of example, these triblock polycondensates have the following chemical structure:

H—(O—CH₂—CH₂)_a—(O—CH(CH₃)—CH₂)_b—(O—CH₂—CH₂)_a—OH in which formula a lies in the range 2 to 120 and b in the range 1 to 100.

The EO/PO polycondensate preferably has weight average molecular weight lying in the range 1000 to 15,000, better in the range 2000 to 13,000. Advantageously, said EO/PO polycondensate has a cloud temperature at 10 grams per liter (g/L) in distilled water that is greater than or equal to 20° C., preferably greater than or equal to 60° C. The cloud temperature is measured in compliance with ISO standard 1065. As a ED/PO polycondensate that is suitable for use in an embodiment, mention may be made of triblock polycondensates of polyethylene glycol-polyproylene glycol-polyethylene glycol as sold under the names Synperonic® such as Synperonic PE/L44® and Synperonic PE/F127® by the supplier ICI.

b) Non-inonic surfactants of HLB less than 8 at 25° C., possibly associated with one or more non-ionic emulsifiers of HLB greater than 8 at 25° C., as mentioned above; particular mention may be made of:

• • esters and ethers of simple sugars such as sucrose stearate, sucrose cocoate, sorbitan stearates, and mixtures thereof such as Arlatone 21210 sold by the supplier ICI;
  • oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene ethers (having 1 to 150 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene groups) of fatty alcohols (in particular of C₈-C₂₄ alcohols, preferably of C₁₂-C₁₈ alcohols) such as oxyethylene ether of stearyl alcohol with two oxyethylene groups (INCI name “Steareth-2”);
  • esters of fatty acids (in particular C₈-C₂₄ acids, and preferably C₁₆-C₂₂ acids) and of polyol, in particular of glycerol or of sorbitol, such as glyceryl stearate, such as the product sold under the name Tegin M® by the supplier Evonik Goldschmidt, glyceryl laurate such as the product sold under the name Imwitor 312® by the supplier Huls, polyglyceryl-2 stearate, sorbitan tristearate, and glyceryl ricinoleate;
  • lecithins such as soy lecithin (such as Emulmetik 100 J from Cargill, or Biophilic H from Lucas Meyer);
  • the mixture of cyclomethicone and copolyol dimethicone sold under the name Q2-3225C® by the supplier Dow Corning.

c) Anionic surfactants such as:

• • the salts of C₁₆-C₃₀ fatty acids, in particular those derived from amines, such as triethanolamine stearate and/or 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol stearate. Triethanolamine stearate is generally obtained merely by mixing stearic acid with triethanolamine;
  • the salts of polyoxyethylene fatty acids in particular those derived from amines or alkaline salts, and mixtures thereof;
  • phosphoric esters and salts thereof such as “DEA oleth-10 phosphate” (Crodafos N 10N from the supplier Croda) or monopotassium monocetyl phosphate or potassium cetyiphosphate (Amphisol K from Givaudan);
  • sulfosuccinates such as “disodium PEG-5 citrate lauryl sulfosuccinate” and “disodium rinicoleamido MEA sulfosuccinate”;
  • alklylethersulfates such as sodium lauryl ether sulfate;
  • isethionates;
  • acylglutamates such as “disodium hydrogenated tallow glutamate” (Amisoft HS-21R® sold by the supplier Alinomoto) and sodium stearoyl glutamate (Amisoft HS-11 PF® sold by the supplier Ajinomoto) and mixtures thereof;
  • soy derivatives such as potassium soyate;
  • citrates, such as glyceryl stearate citrate (Axol C 62 Pellets from Degussa);
  • derivatives of proline, such as sodium palmitoyl proline (Sepicalm VG from Seppic) or the mixture of sodium palmitoyl sarconisate, magnesium palmitoyl glutamate, palmitic acid, and palmitoyl proline (Sepifeel One from Seppic);
  • lactylates, such as sodium stearoyl lactylate (Akoline SL from Karlshamns AB);
  • sarcosinates such as sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate (Nikkol sarcosinate PN) or the 75/25 mixture of stearoyl sarcosine and myristoyl sarcosine (Crodasin SM from Croda);
  • sulfonates, such as dry sodium C₁₄-C₁₇ alkyl sulfonate (Hostapur SAS 60 from Clariant); and
  • glycinates, such as sodium cocyl glycinate (Amilite GCS-12 from Ajinomoto).

Compositions may also contain one or more amphoteric surfactants such as N-acyl-aminoacids such as N-alkyl-aminoacetates and disodium cocoamphodiacete and amine oxides such as stearmine oxide or indeed silicone surfactants such as dimethicone copolyol phosphate such as that sold under the name Pecosil PS100® by the supplier Phoenix Chemical.

The emulsifier that is used may also be a polymeric surfactant, in particular a thermogelling polymer.

In particular exemplary embodiments, the emulsifier is selected from i) salts of C₁₆-C₃₀ fatty acids, in particular those derived from amines such as triethanolamine stearate; ii) oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene ethers (including 1 to 150 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene groups) of fatty alcohols (in particular C₈-C₂₄ alcohol, and preferably C₁₂-C₁₈ alcohol) such as the oxyethylene ether of stearyl alcohol having two oxyethylene groups (INCI name “Steareth-2”); iii) esters of fatty acids (in particular of C₈-C₂₄ acids, and preferably of C₁₆-C₂₂ acids) and of polyol, in particular glycerol or sorbitol, such as glyceryl stearate such as the product sold under the name Tegin M® by the supplier Evonik Goldschmidt; iv) phosphoric esters and their salts such as potassium cetylphosphate (Amphisol K from Givaudan); and/or v) esters of fatty acids (in particular of C₈-C₂₄ acids, and preferably of C₁₆-C₂₂ acids) and ethers of oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene glycerol (having 1 to 150 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene groups), such as polyethyoxyl glyceryl stearate having 30 ethylene oxide groups such as the product Tagat® S sold by the supplier Evonik Goldschmidt; and vi) mixtures thereof.

Even more particularly suitable as an emulsifier, are steareth-2, glyceryl stearate, triethanolamine stearate, polyethoxyl glyceryl stearate having 30 ethylene oxide groups, potassium cetylphosphate, and mixtures thereof.

In exemplary embodiments, the composition includes at least one anionic surfactant and at least one non-ionic surfactant, in particular a non-ionic surfactant having an HLB that is greater than or equal to 8 at 25° C., said surfactants advantageously being selected from the above-mentioned surfactants.

In exemplary embodiments, the composition includes at least one emulsifier selected from potassium cetylphosphate, steareth-2, and mixtures thereof. Advantageously, it is a mixture of potassium cetylphosphate and of steareth-2.

The composition may contain 0.01% to 30% by weight of emulsifier relative to the total weight of said composition, better 1% to 15% by weight, and better still 2% to 10% by weight.

In other exemplary embodiments, the composition includes at least one emulsifier selected from the esters of fatty acids and of polyol, in particular glyceryl stearate, the esters of fatty acids and of polyethylene glycol, in particular PEG-30 stearate, and mixtures thereof,

The composition may also include at least one hydrophilic gelling agent.

Hydrophilic Gelling Agents

The hydrophilic gelling agents usable in compositions may be selected from

• • homo- or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acids, their salts and their esters, in particular the products sold under the names Versicol F® or Versicol K® from the supplier Allied Colloid, Ultrahold 8® from the supplier Ciba-Geigy, and polyacrylic acids of the Synthalen K® type;
  • copolymers of acrylic acid and of acrylamide sold in the form of their sodium salts under the names Reten® by the supplier Hercules, sodium polymethacrylate sold under the name Darvan N° 7° by the supplier Vanderbilt, the sodium salts of polyhydroxybarboxylic acids sold under the names Hydagen F® by the supplier Henkel;
  • copolymers of polyacrylic acid and alkyl acrylates of the Pemulen® type;
  • AMPS (polyacrylamidomethylpropane sulfonic acid partially neutralized with ammonia and highly cross-linked) as sold by the supplier Clariant;
  • AMPS and acrylamide copolymers of the Sepigel® or Simulgel® type sold by the supplier Seppic; and
  • copolymers of AMPS and polyoxyethylene alkyl methacrylates (optionally cross-linked), and mixtures thereof.

The hydrosoluble film-forming polymers mentioned below may also act as a hydrophilic gelling agent.

The hydrophilic gelling agent(s) may be present in the composition at a dry matter content lying in the range 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably in the range 0.5% to 20% by weight, better in the range 1% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

Oily Phase

The composition includes an oily phase comprising at least one wax suitable for serving as an agent for texturing the composition. The term “texturing agent” is used to mean a compound capable of providing texture to the composition, in particular by forming an aggregated array of particles.

Such a texturing agent remains immiscible with the aqueous phase, and may be in the form of a dispersion in said aqueous phase. When present in sufficient quantity, such as a texturing agent thus leads to textures that are semisolid or solid.

Wax(es)

The waxes considered in the context of the present embodiment are preferably compounds that are lipophilic, solid, deformable or non-deformable at ambient temperature (25° C.), with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30° C., and possibly as high as 200° C., and in particular up to 120° C.

When a liquid oily phase is present, by raising one or more waxes to the liquid state (melting), it is possible to make them miscible with one or more oils and to form a mixture of wax(es) plus oil(s) that is macroscopically uniform, but by reducing the temperature of said mixture to ambient temperature, the wax(es) recrystallize(s) in the oil(s) of the mixture.

In particular, waxes suitable for an embodiment may present a melting point greater than or equal to 45° C., in particular greater than or equal to 55° C.

In the meaning of the embodiment, the melting temperature corresponds to the most endothermic peak temperature observed in thermal analysis by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) as described in ISO standard 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter, e.g. the calorimeter sold under the name “MDSC 2920” by the supplier TA Instruments.

The Measurement Protocol is as Follows

A 5 milligram (mg) sample of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise from −20° C. to 100° C. at a rate of 10° C. per minute (° C./min), and then cooled from 100° C. to −20° C. at a cooling rate of 10° C./min, and finally is subjected to a second temperature rise from −20° C. to 100° C. at a rate of 5° C./min. During the second temperature rise, the variation as a function of temperature is measured in the difference between the power absorbed by the empty crucible and the power absorbed by the crucible containing the sample of wax. The melting point of the compound is the temperature value that corresponds to the top of the peak of the curve plotting variation in the absorbed power difference as a function of temperature.

The waxes that are suitable for use in compositions are selected from waxes that are solid at ambient temperature, of animal, vegetable, mineral, or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof.

In particular, it is possible to use hydrocarbon waxes such as natural beeswax (or white beeswax), synthetic beeswax, carnauba wax, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes, rice wax, candelilla wax, ouricurry wax, alfa wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japan wax, and sumac wax; montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins, and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis, and waxy copolymers, and esters thereof.

Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable C₈-C₃₂ oils having fatty chains that are linear or branched.

Amongst these, mention can be made in particular of hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coprah oil, and hydrogenated lanolin oil, di-(trimethylol-1,1,1 propane) tetrastearate sold in particular under the name “HEST 2T-4S” by the supplier Heterene, di-(trimethylol-1,1,1 propane) tetrabehanate sold in particular under the name HEST 2T-4B by the supplier Heterene.

Mention may also be made of silicone waxes such as alkyl or alkoxy-dimethicone having 16 to 45 carbon atoms, and fluorinated waxes.

It is also possible to use the wax that is obtained by hydrogenating esterified olive oil with stearyl alcohol, in particular as sold under the name “Phytowax Olive 18 L 57” or indeed the waxes obtained by hydrogenating castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol and sold in particular under the name “Phytowax ricin 16L64 and 22L73” by the supplier Sophim. Such waxes are described in application FR-A-2 792 190.

In particular exemplary embodiments, compositions may include at least one so-called “sticky” wax that possesses stickiness greater than or equal to 0.7 newton seconds (N.s) and hardness less than or equal to 3.5 megapascals (MPa).

The use of a sticky wax may make it possible in particular to obtain a cosmetic composition that is easily applied to the eyelashes, adhering well to the eyelashes and leading to makeup that is smooth, uniform, and thickening.

The sticky wax used may in particular possess stickiness lying in the range 0.7 N.s to 30 N.s, in particular that is greater than or equal to 1N.s, in particular lying in the range 1N.s to 20 N.s, in particular greater than or equal to 2 N.s, in particular lying in the range 2 N.s to 10 N.s, and in particular lying in the range 2 N.s to 5 N.s.

The stickiness of the wax is determined by measuring force variation as a function of time at 20° C. (where the force may be a compression force or a tension force), with the help of a texture meter sold under the name “TA-TX2i®” by the supplier Rheo, and fitted with a moving body made of acrylic polymer in the form of a cone forming an angle of 45°.

The Measurement Protocol is as Follows

The wax is melted at a temperature equal to the melting point of the wax +10° C. The molten wax is cast into a container having a diameter of 25 mm at a depth of 20 mm. The wax is recrystallized at ambient temperature (25° C.) for 24 hours so that the surface of the wax is plane and smooth, and then the wax is conserved for at least 1 hour at 20° C. before measuring stickiness.

The moving body of the texture meter is moved at a speed of 0.5 millimeters per second (mm/s) and then penetrates into the wax to a penetration depth of 2 mm. When the moving body has penetrated into the wax to a depth of 2 mm, the moving body is held stationary for 1 second (corresponding to the relaxation time) and is then withdrawn at a speed of 0.5 mm/s.

During the relaxation time, the (compression) force decreases greatly to become zero, and then during withdrawal of the moving body, the (tension) force becomes negative and then increases once more towards the value zero. The stickiness corresponds to the integral of the curve plotting force as a function of time for that portion of the curve that corresponds to negative values of the force (tension force). The stickiness value is expressed in N.s.

A sticky wax that is suitable for use generally has hardness that is less than or equal 3.5 MPa, in particular that lies in the range 0.01 MPa to 3.5 MPa, in particular in the range 0.05 MPa to 3 MPa, or indeed in the range 0.1 MPa to 2.5 MPa.

The hardness of the sticky wax is determined by measuring the compression force at 20° C. with the texture meter sold under the name TA-TX2 by the supplier Rheo, fitted with a stainless steel cylinder having a diameter of 2 mm that moves at a measurement speed of 0.1 mm/s and that penetrates into the wax to a penetration depth of 0.3 mm.

The Measurement Protocol is as Follows

The wax is melted at a temperature equal to the melting point of the wax +10° C. The molten wax is cast into a container having a diameter of 25 mm at a depth of 20 mm. The wax is recrystallized at ambient temperature (25° C.) for 24 hours so that the surface of the wax is plane and smooth, and then the wax is conserved for at least 1 hour at 20° C. before measuring hardness.

The moving body of the texture meter is moved at a speed of 0.1 mm/s and penetrates into the wax to a penetration depth of 0.3 mm. Once the moving body has penetrated into the wax to the depth of 0.3 mm, the moving body is held stationary for 1 second (corresponding to the relaxation time), and is then withdrawn at a speed of 0.5 mm/s.

The value of the hardness is the maximum measured compressed force divided by the area of the texture meter in contact with the wax.

As sticky wax, it is possible to use a C₂₀-C₄₀ alky (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate (i.e. the alkyl group has 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or in a mixture, in particular a C₂₀-C₉₀ alkyl 12-(12′-hydroxystearyloxy) stearate having formula (II):

in which m is an integer lying in the range 18 to 38, or a mixture of compounds satisfying formula (II).

One such wax is sold in particular under the name “Kester Wax K 82 P®” and “Kester Wax K 80 P®” by supplier Koster Keunen.

It is also possible to use the microcrystalline wax sold under the reference SP18 by the supplier Strahl & Pitsch that presents hardness of about 0.46 MPa and has a stickiness value of about 1N.s.

The wax(es) may be present in the form of an aqueous microdispersion of wax. The term “aqueous microdispersion of wax” is used to mean an aqueous dispersion of wax particles in which the size of said wax particles is less than or equal to about 1 μm.

Wax microdispersions are stable dispersions of colloidal wax particles and they are described in particular in “Microemulsions theory and practice”, L.M. Prince Ed., Academic Press (1977), pp. 21-32.

In particular, wax microdispersions may be obtained by melting the wax in the presence of a surfactant, and possibly from water, and then progressively adding hot water while stirring. The formation of an intermediate water-in-oil type emulsion is observed, followed by a phase inversion ending up with a microemulsion of the oil-in-water type. On cooling, a stable microdispersion of solid colloidal particles of wax is obtained.

Wax microdispersions may also be obtained by stirring the mixture of wax, surfactant, and water using stirring means such as ultrasound, a high-pressure homogenizer, or turbines.

The particles of the microdispersion of wax preferably have mean dimensions of less than 1 μm (in particular lying in the range 0.02 μm to 0.99 μm), preferably less than 0.5 μm (in particular lying in the range 0.06 μm to 0.5 μm).

These particles are essentially constituted by a wax or a mixture of waxes. Nevertheless, they may include a minority fraction of fatty, oily, and/or pasty additives, a surfactant, and/or a conventional liposoluble additive or active agent.

In advantageous exemplary embodiments, the composition also has at least one synthetic beeswax and/or carnauba wax, in particular at a content of at least 2% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, more particularly at least 3%, or even at least 4% by weight.

The composition may present a total content of wax(es) lying in the range 2% to 35% by weight, preferably in the range 5% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

In advantageous exemplary embodiments, the composition comprises carnauba wax and/or synthetic beeswax, in particular at a content of at least 2% by weight, advantageously at least 3% by weight, better still at least 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition may comprise 2% to 30% by weight, e.g. 2% to 25% by weight, or indeed 2% to 10% by weight of carnauba wax and/or of synthetic beeswax, in particular when the composition further comprises waxes other than synthetic beeswax and/or carnauba wax, or indeed 15% to 25% by weight, in particular when the composition does not have waxes other than synthetic beeswax and/or carnauba wax, or even 5% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

In yet other particular exemplary embodiments, the composition comprises a waxy phase constituted by a mixture of hydrogenated jojoba oil and beeswax.

The term “carnauba wax and/or synthetic beeswax” in the context of the present embodiment is used to mean carnauba wax, synthetic beeswax, or a mixture thereof.

Carnauba Wax

Carnauba wax generally contains esters of fatty acid, e.g. comprising 80% to 85% by weight, fatty alcohols, e.g. comprising 10% to 15% by weight, acids, e.g. comprising 3% to 6% by weight, and hydrocarbon chains, e.g. comprising 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the wax. In particular, it may have high contents of diol ester, in particular about 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the wax, of hydroxyl fatty acid, in particular about 6% by weight, and of cinnamic acid, in particular about 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the wax.

The fatty acid esters at a content of 80% to 85% by weight may comprise 36% to 40% by weight of monoesters, 26% to 34% of cinnamic acid diesters, and 10% to 14% by weight of hydroxyesters.

Its melting point is about 78 C.° to 85° C.

Carnauba wax is sold in particular by the supplier Strahl & Pitsch under the trade name Carnauba Wax SP 63®, or by the supplier Baerlocher under the trade name Cerauba® T1.

Synthetic Beeswax

The wax known by the INCI name of “synthetic beeswax” generally contains C₁₆-C₃₆ fatty acids and alcohols. Its melting point is about 50° C. to 60° C. Synthetic beeswax is sold in particular by the supplier Evonik Goldschmidt under the trade name Cyclochem® 326 A.

The composition may also comprise at least one optionally-texturing additional dispersed agent that may be selected from; i) semicrystalline polymers; ii) lipophilic gelling agents; and iii) mixtures thereof.

The additional dispersed agent(s) may represent 1% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably 2.5% to 30%, and even more preferably 5% to 25% by weight. The quantity of additional dispersed agent may be adjusted by the person skilled in the art as a function of the structuring properties of said agents.

The composition may also comprise at least one semicrystalline polymer.

Semicrystalline Polymers

The term “semicrystalline polymer” is used to mean polymers having a crystallizable portion, a crystallizable pendant chain, or a crystallizable sequence in its backbone, and an amorphous portion in the backbone, and that also presents a first-order reversible change-of-phase temperature, in particular for melting (solid-liquid transition). When the crystallizable portion is in the form of a crystallizable sequence of the polymer backbone, the amorphous portion of the polymer is in the form of an amorphous sequence. The semicrystalline polymer is then a sequenced copolymer, e.g. of the diblock, triblock, or multiblock type, having at least one crystallizable sequence and at least one amorphous sequence. The term “sequence” generally means at least five identical repetition motifs. The crystallizable sequence(s) is/are then of a chemical nature that is different from the amorphous sequence(s).

The semicrystalline polymer has a melting temperature greater than or equal to 30° C., in particular lying in the range 30° C. to 80° C., preferably in the range 30° C. to 60° C. The melting temperature is a first-order change-of-state temperature.

This melting temperature may be measured by any known method, and in particular by using differential scanning calorimetry (DSC).

Advantageously, the semicrystalline polymer(s) to which an embodiment applies presents a number average molecular mass that is greater than or equal to 1000. Advantageously, the semicrystalline polymer(s) of the composition have a number average molecular mass Mn lying in the range 2000 to 800,000, preferably in the range 3000 to 500,000, better in the range 4000 to 150,000, and in particular less than 100,000, better in the range 4000 too 99,000. Preferably, they present a number average molecular mass greater than 5600, i.e. lying in the range 5700 to 99,000. The term “crystallizable chain or sequence” is used to mean a chain or sequence that, on its own, would pass from the amorphous state to the crystalline state in reversible manner depending on whether the temperature is above or below the melting temperature. A “chain” in the meaning of an embodiment is a group of atoms that is pendant or lateral relative to the backbone of the polymer. A sequence is a group of atoms forming part of the backbone, which group constitutes one of the repetitive motifs of the polymer. Advantageously, the “crystallizable pendant chain” may be a chain having at least 6 carbon atoms.

The semicrystalline polymer may be selected from sequenced copolymers including at least one crystallizable sequence and at least one amorphous sequence, homopolymers, and copolymers having at least one crystallizable lateral or side chain per repetition motif, and mixtures thereof.

By way of example, such polymers are described in document EP 1 396 259.

In particular exemplary embodiments, the polymer comes from a crystallizable chain monomer selected from C₁₄ to C₂₂ saturated alkyl (meth)acrylates.

As a particular example of a structuring semicrystalline polymer usable in the composition, mention may be made of Intelimer® products from the supplier Landec as described in the brochure “Intelimer® polymers”, Landec IP22 (Rev. 4-97).

These polymers are in a form that is solid at ambient temperature (25° C.). They carry crystallizable side chains.

The semicrystalline polymer(s) may be present at a content lying in the range 0.1% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition may also include at least one lipophilic gelling agent.

Lipophilic Gelling Agents

The gelling agents usable in compositions may be polymeric or molecular, organic or mineral, lipophilic gelling agents.

As a mineral lipophilic gelling agent, mention may be made of clays, possibly modified, such as hectorites modified by C₁₀ to C₂₂ fatty acid ammonium chloride, such as hectorite modified by di-stearyl di-methyl ammonium chloride, such as, for example, that sold under the name Bentone 38V® by the supplier Elementis.

Mention may also be made of pyrogenic silica, possibly with hydrophobic surface treatment, having a particle size of less than 1 μm. It is possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica by a chemical reaction that leads to a reduction in the number of silanol groups present on the surface of the silica. In particular, silanol groups may be substituted by hydrophobic groups: this produces hydrophobic silica. The hydrophobic groups may be:

• • trimethylsiloxyl groups as commonly obtained by treating pyrogenic silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas treated in this way are named “silica silylate” by INCI (6th edition, 1995). By way of example they are sold under the references Aerosil R812® by the supplier Degussa, or CAB-O-SIL TS-530® by the supplier Cabot; and
  • dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethysiloxane groups, as obtained in particular by treating pyrogenic silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or of dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas treated in this way are named “silica dimethyl silylate” by the INCI (6th edition, 1995). By way of example they are sold under the references Aerosil R972® and Aerosil R974® by the supplier Degussa, and CAB-O-SIL TS-610® and CAB-O-SIL TS-720® by the supplier Cabot.

Hydrophobic pyrogenic silica presents in particular a particle size that may be nanometric or micrometric, e.g. lying in the range 5 nanometers (nm) to 200 nm.

It is also possible to use non-polymeric molecular organic gelling agents, also known as organogels, associated with a liquid oily phase (which may be the liquid oily phase of the composition), which are compounds in which the molecules are capable of establishing physical interactions between one another leading to molecules self-aggregating and forming a three-dimensional supra-molecular lattice that is responsible for the gelling of the liquid oily phase.

The supra-molecular lattice may result from forming a lattice of fibrils (due to stacks or aggregations of organogel molecules) preventing the molecules of the liquid oily phase from moving.

The ability to form such a lattice of fibrils, and thus to gel, depends on the nature (or chemical class) of the organogel, on the nature of the substituents carried by its molecules for a given chemical class, and on the nature of the liquid oily phase.

The physical interactions are diverse but they exclude co-crystallization. These physical interactions are in particular interactions of the following types: self-complementary hydrogen interactions; n interactions between unsaturated rings; dipolar interactions; coordination bonds with organometallic derivatives; and associations thereof. In general, each molecule of an organogel is capable of establishing a plurality of types of physical interaction with a neighboring molecule. Also, advantageously, the molecules of organogels include at least one group capable of establishing hydrogen bonds, and better at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen bonds, at least one aromatic ring, and better at least two aromatic rings, at least one or more ethylene unsaturated bonds and/or at least one or more asymmetrical carbon atoms. Preferably, the groups capable of making hydrogen bonds are selected from hydroxyl, carbonyl, amine, carboxylic acid, amide, urea, and benzyl groups, and associations thereof.

The organogel(s) is/are soluble in the liquid oily phase after heating so as to obtain a transparent uniform liquid phase. They may be solid or liquid at ambient temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure.

The molecular organogel(s) usable in the composition are in particular those described in the document “Specialist Surfactants”, edited by D. Robb in 1997, pp. 209-263, Chapter 8 by P. Terech, European patent applications EP-A-1 068 854 and EP-A-1 086 945, or indeed application WO-A-02/47031.

Amongst such organogels, mention may be made in particular of the amides of carboxylic acids and in particular of tricarboxylic acids such as cyclohexane tricarboxamides (see application EP-A-1 068 854), diamides having hydrocarbon chains each containing 1 to 22 carbon atoms, e.g. 6 to 18 carbon atoms, said chains being non-substituted or substituted with at least one substituent selected from ester, urea, and fluoro groups (see application EP-A-1 086 945), and in particular diamides resulting from the reaction of diaminocyclohexane, in particular diaminocyclohexane in the transform, and an acid chloride such as, for example N,N′-bis(dodecanoyl)-1,2-diaminocyclohexane, amides of N-acylamino acids such as the diamides that result from the action of an N-acylamino acid with amines having 1 to 22 carbon atoms, e.g. such as those described in document WO-93/23008, and in particular amides of N-acylglutamic acid, where the acyl group represents a C₈ to C₂₂ alkyl chain such as dibutylamide of N-lauroyl-L-glutamic acid, as manufactured and sold by the supplier Ajinomoto under the name GP-1, and mixtures thereof.

The polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents are, for example:

• • partially or totally crossed-linked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes of three-dimensional structure, such as those sold under the names KSG60, KSG16®, and KSG18® by the supplier Shin-Etsu, Trefil E-505C® and Trefil E-506C® by the supplier Dow Corning, Gransil SR-CYC®, SR DMF100, SR-DC556® SR 5CYC Gel®, SR DMF 10 Gel®, and SR DC 556 Gel® by the supplier Grant Industries, and SF 1204® and JK 113® by the supplier General Electric;
  • ethylcellulose as that sold under the name Ethocel® by the supplier Dow Chemical;
  • polycondensates of the polyamide type resulting from condensation between α) at least one acid selected from dicarboxylic acids having at least 32 carbon atoms such as dimer fatty acids, and β) an alkylene diamine and in particular ethylene diamine, in which the polyamide polymer comprises at least one esterified or amidified terminal carboxylic acid group with at least one monoalcohol or monoamine having 12 to 30 linear and saturated carbon atoms, and in particular copolymers of ethylene diamine and stearyl dilinoleate, such as that sold under the name Uniclear 100 VG® by the supplier Arizona Chemical;
  • silicone polyamides of the polyorganosiloxane type such as those described in documents U.S. Pat. No. 5,874,069, U.S. Pat. No. 5,919,441, U.S. Pat. No. 6,051,216, and U.S. Pat. No. 5,981,680, e.g. such as those sold under the reference Dow Corning 2-8179 Gellant® by the supplier Dow Corning;
  • galactomannans having one to six and in particular two to four hydroxyl groups per simple sugar, substituted by an optionally saturated alkyl chain such as guar gum alkylized by C₁ to C₆ alkyl chains, in particular C₁ to C₃ alkyl chains, and mixtures thereof;
  • sequenced copolymers, optionally hydrogenated, of the diblock, triblock, or radial type, in particular with styrene blocks and C₃-C₄ ethylene/alkylene blocks. As a diblock copolymer that is preferably hydrogenated, mention may be made of copolymers of styrene-ethylene and propylene, and copolymers of styrene-ethylene and butadiene. Diblock polymers are sold in particular under the name Kraton® G1701E by the supplier Kraton Polymers.

As a triblock copolymer that is preferably hydrogenated, mention may be made of the following copolymers: styrene-ethylene and propylene-styrene; styrene-ethylene and butadiene-styrene; styrene-isoprene-styrene; and styrene-butadiene-styrene. Triblock polymers are sold in particular under the names Kraton® G1650, Kraton® G1652, Kraton® D1101, Kraton® D1102, and Kraton® D1160 by the supplier Kraton Polymers.

It is also possible to use a mixture of triblock hydrogenated styrene-butylene and ethylene-styrene copolymer and of hydrogenated star-shaped ethylene-propylene-styrene copolymer, such a mixture being found in particular in isododecane. Such mixtures are sold for example by the supplier Penreco under the trade names Versagel® M5960 and Versagel® M5670.

It is also possible to mention polystyrene and polyisoprene or polystyrene and polybutadiene copolymers such as those sold under the name Luvitol HSB® by the supplier BASF.

Amongst the lipophilic gelling agents that are suitable for use in compositions, mention may also be made of esters of dextrin and fatty acid, such as dextrin palmitates, in particular those sold under the names Rheopearl TL® or Rheopearl KL® by the supplier Chiba Flour.

The lipophilic gelling agent(s) may be present at a content lying in the range 0.1% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition may also comprise at least one pasty compound.

Pasty Compound

In the meaning of the present embodiment, the term “pasty” should be understood as a lipophilic fatty compound that presents a reversible solid/liquid change of state and that comprises both a liquid fraction and a solid fraction at a temperature of 23° C. In other words, the beginning melting temperature of the pasty compound is below 23° C. The pasty compound is said to be in the “solid state” when all of its mass is in solid form, and the pasty compound is said to be in the “liquid state” when all of its mass is in liquid form.

The liquid fraction of the pasty compound as measured at 23° C. represents 23% to 97% by weight of the compound, preferably 25% to 85% by weight of the compound.

The liquid fraction by weight of the pasty compound at 23° C. is equal to the ratio of the melting enthalpy consumed at 23° C. divided by the melting enthalpy of the pasty compound.

The melting enthalpy of the pasty compound is the quantity of energy needed and consumed by the compound in order to pass from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in joules per gram (J/g).

The melting enthalpy of the basic compound is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC) such as the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the supplier TA Instruments, with a temperature rise of 5° C./min or 10° C./min, in application of ISO standard 11357-3:1999.

The melting enthalpy consumed at 23° C. is the quantity of energy absorbed by the sample to go from the solid state to the state that it presents at 23° C. where it is constituted by a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32° C. preferably represents 40% to 100% by weight of the compound, more preferably 50% to 100% by weight of the compound. When the liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32° C. is equal to 100%, the temperature at the end of the melting range of the pasty compound is lower than or equal to 32° C.

The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32° C. is equal to the ratio of the melting enthalpy consumed at 32° C. divided by the melting enthalpy of the pasty compound. The melting enthalpy consumed at 32° C. is calculated in the same way as the melting enthalpy consumed at 23° C.

The pasty compound is preferably selected from synthetic compounds and compounds of vegetable origin. A pasty compound may be obtained by synthesis from starting substances of vegetable origin.

The pasty compound is advantageously selected from:

• • lanolin and derivatives thereof;
  • optionally polymeric silicone compounds;
  • optionally polymeric fluorinated compounds;
  • vinyl polymers, and in particular:
    • homopolymers of olefins;
    • copolymers of olefins; and
    • homopolymers and copolymers of hydrogenated dienes;
    • homo- or copolymer linear or branched oligomers of alkyl (meth)acrylates preferably having a C₉-C₃₀ alkyl group;
    • homo- and copolymer oligomers of vinyl esters having C₈-C₃₀ alkyl groups;
    • homo- and copolymer oligomers of vinyl ethers having C₈-C₃₀ alkyl groups;
    • liposoluble polyethers resulting from polyetherification between one or more C₂-C₁₀₀ diols, preferably C₂-C₅₀ diols;
    • esters and polyesters; and
    • mixtures thereof.

The pasty compound is preferably a polymer, in particular a hydrocarbon.

A preferred silicone and fluorinated pasty compound is polymethyl trifluoropropyl methylaklyl dimethylsiloxane, manufactured under the name X22-1088 by Shin-Etsu.

When the pasty compound is a silicone and/or fluorinated polymer, the composition advantageously includes a compatibility agent such as short-chain esters such as isodecyl neopentanoate.

Amongst liposoluble polyethers, particularly preferred are copolymers of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide with long-chain C₆-C₃₀ alkylene oxides, more preferably such that the weight ratio of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide relative to alklylene oxide in the copolymer is (5/95) to (70/30). In this family, particular mention may be made of copolymers such as long-chain alkylene oxides that are arranged in blocks having an average molecular weight of 1000 to 10,000, e.g. a block copolymers of polyoxyethylene and polydodecyl glycol, such as the ethers of dodecanediol (22 mol) and of polyethylene glycol (45 OE) sold under the trademark Elfacos ST9® by Akzo Nobel.

Among esters, the following are preferred in particular:

• • esters of an oligomer glycerol, in particular esters of diglycerol, in particular condensates of adipic acid and of glycerol, for which a fraction of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, isostearic acid, and 12-hydroxystearic acid, in particular like those sold under the trademark Softisan 649® by the supplier Sasol;
  • esters of phytosterol;
  • esters of pentaerythritol;
  • esters made from:
    • at least one alcohol, at least one of the alcohols being a Guerbet alcohol; and
    • a diacid dimer formed from at least one unsaturated fatty acid, such as the tallol fatty acid dimer ester having 36 carbon atoms and a mixture i) of Guerbet alcohols having 32 carbon atoms and ii) behenylic alcohol; linoleic acid dimer ester and a mixture of two Guerbet alcohols, 2-tetradecyl-octadecacnol (32 carbon atoms) and 2-hexadecyl-eicosanol (36 carbon atoms);
  • non-cross-linked polyesters resulting from polycondensation between a C₄-C₅₀ linear or branched carboxylic polyacid or a dicarboxylic acid, and a C₂-C₅₀ polyol or diol;
  • the polyesters that result from esterification by a polycarboxylic acid of a hydroxy aliphatic carboxylic acid ester such as Risocast DA-L® and Risocast DA-H® sold by the Japanese supplier Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo, which are esters that result from the esterification reaction of hydrogenerated castor oil with dilinoleic acid or isostearic acid; and
  • ester aliphatic esters resulting from esterification of an hydroxy aliphatic carboxylic acid ester by an aliphatic carboxylic acid (Salacos HCIS (V)-L sold by the supplier Nishing Oil).

The aliphatic carboxylic acid has 4 to 30 and preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms. It is preferably selected from hexanoic acid, heptanoic acid, octanoic acid, ethyl-2 hexanoic acid, nonanoic acid, decanoic acid, undecanoic acid, dodecanoic acid, tridecanonic acid, tetradecanoic acid, pentadecanoic acid, hexadecanoic acid, hexyldecanoic acid, heptadocanoic acid, octadecanoic acid, isotearic acid, nonadecanoic acid, eisocanoic acid, isoarachidic acid, octyldodecanoic acid, heneicosanoic acid, docosanoic acid, and mixtures thereof.

The aliphatic carboxylic acid is preferably branched.

The hydroxy aliphatic carboxylic acid is advantageously derived from hydroxylated aliphatic carboxylic acid having 2 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 34 carbon atoms, and better 12 to 28 carbon atoms, and 1 to 20 hydroxyl groups, preferably 1 to 10 hydroxyl groups, and better 1 to 6 hydroxyl groups. The hydroxy aliphatic carboxylic ester is selected from:

a) partial or total esters of saturated linear monohydroxy aliphatic monocarboxylic acids:

b) partial or total esters of unsaturated monohydroxy aliphatic monocarboxylic acid;

c) partial or total esters of saturated monohydroxy aliphatic carboxylic polyacids;

d) partial or total esters of saturated polyhydroxy aliphatic carboxylic polyacids;

e) partial or total esters of C₂ to C₁₆ aliphatic polyols that have reacted with a mono- or polyhydroxy aliphatic carboxylic mono- or polyacid; and

f) mixtures thereof.

The ester aliphatic esters are advantageously selected from:

• • the ester that results from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with isostearic acid in proportions of 1 to 1 (1/1) or hydrogenated castor oil monoisostearate;
  • the ester that results from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with isostearic acid in proportions of 1 to 2 (1/2) or hydrogenated castor oil diisostearate;
  • the ester that results from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with isostearic acid in proportions of 1 to 3 (1/3) or hydrogenated castor oil triisostearate; and
  • mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the pasty compound is selected from compounds of vegetable origin.

Amongst these compounds, particular mention may be made of isomerized jojoba oil such as the trans isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil fabricated or sold by the supplier Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, orange wax, such as, for example, that which is sold under the reference Orange Peel Wax® by the supplier Koster Keunen, karite butter, partially hydrogenated olive oil such as, for example, the compound sold under the reference Beurrolive® by the supplier Soliance, cocoa butter, mango oil such as, for example, Lipex® 302 from the supplier Aarhuskarlshamn.

The pasty compound may represent 0.5% to 20%, better 1% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Liquid Oily Phase

The composition may comprise a liquid oily phase.

In the meaning of the application, the term “liquid oily phase” should be understood as meaning an oily phase that is liquid at ambient temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 millimeters of mercury (mmHg)), made of one or more non-aqueous fatty substances that are liquid at ambient temperature and that are mutually compatible. These fatty substances are also referred to as oils.

The oil may be selected from volatile oils, non-volatile oils, and mixtures thereof.

In the meaning of an embodiment, the term “volatile oil” is an oil that would evaporate on contact with the skin or a keratinous fiber in less than one hour at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil(s) of the embodiment are volatile organic solvents and/or volatile cosmetic oils that are liquid at ambient temperature and that present a non-zero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, lying in particular in the range 0.13 pascals (Pa) to 40,000 Pa (i.e. 10⁻³ mmHg to 300 mmHg), in particular in the range 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (i.e. 0.01 mmHg to 100 mmHg), and more particularly lying in the range 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (i.e. 0.01 mmHg to 10 mmHg).

In contrast, a “non-volatile oil” means an oil that remains on the skin or a keratinous fiber at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure at least for more than one hour and that presents in particular a vapor pressure of less than 10⁻³ mmHg, i.e. less than 0.13 Pa.

These oils may be hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils, and mixtures thereof.

The term “hydrocarbon oil” means an oil that contains mainly atoms of hydrogen and carbon and possibly atoms of oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, and/or phosphorous.

By way of example of oils suitable for use in an embodiment, mention may be made of

• • hydrocarbon oils of animal origin such as perhydrosqualene;
  • vegetable hydrocarbon oils such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids having 4 to 24 carbon atoms such as the triglycerides of hepatonoic or octanoic acid, or indeed sunflower, maize, soy, pumpkin, grape seed, sesame, hazel nut, apricot, macadamia, castor, or avocado oils, triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids such as those sold by the supplier Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812, and 818 by the supplier Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, karite butter;
  • linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin such as paraffin oils and their derivatives, vaseline, polydecenes, polybutenes, hydrogenerated polybutenes such as Parleam, hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular C₈-C₁₆ branched alkanes such as C₈-C₁₆ isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopars® or Permethyl®, or indeed petroleum distillates such as those sold under the name Shell Solt® by the supplier Shell;
  • synthesized esters and ethers, in particular fatty acids such as oils having the formula R₁COOR₂ where R₁ represents the residue of a higher fatty acid having 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R₂ represents a hydrocarbon chain having 1 to 40 carbon atoms, with R₁+R₂≧10, such as for example Purcellin oil, isonoyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, ethyl 2-hexyl palmitate, octyl 2-dodecyl stearate, octyl 2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, tridecyl trimellitate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxy stearate, octyl dodecyl hydroxy stearate, diisotearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, hepatanoates, octanoates, and decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrytyl tetra-isostearate;
  • fatty alcohols having 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as octyl dodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyl decanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, oleic alcohol;
  • fluorinated oils that are possibly partially hydrocarbon and/or silicone oils;
  • silicone oils such as optionally volatile linear or cyclical polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS); polydimethylsiloxanes having alkyl, alkoxy, or phenyl groups that are pendant or at an end of the silicone chain, groups having 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenyl ethyl trimethyl-siloxysilicates; and
  • mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the oil has a molecular mass greater than or equal to 250 grams per mole (g/mol), particularly lying in the range 250 g/mol to 10,000 g/mol, preferably greater than or equal to 300 g/mol, in particular lying in the range 300 g/mol to 8000 g/mol, and better greater than or equal to 400 g/mol, in particular lying in the range 400 g/mol to 5000 g/mol.

The oil may be selected from:

• • polybutylenes such as Indopol H-100 (molar mass (MM) of 965 g/mol), Indopol H-300 (MM=1340 g/mol), Indopol H-1500 (MM=2160 g/mol) sold or fabricated by the supplier Amoco;
  • hydrogenated polyisobutylenes such as Panalane H-300 E sold or fabricated by the supplier Amoco (MM-1340 g/mol), Viseal 20000 sold or fabricated by the supplier Synteal (MM=6000 g/mol), Rewopal PTB 1000 sold or fabricated by the supplier Witco (MM=1000 g/mol);
  • polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes such as: Puresyn 10 (MM=723 g/mol), Puresyn 150 (MM=9200 g/mol) sold or fabricated by the supplier Mobil Chemicals;
  • esters such as:
    • esters of linear fatty acids having a total number of carbon atoms lying in the range 30 to 70, such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate (MM=697.05 g/mol);
    • hydroxylated esters such as diisotearyl malate (MM=639 g/mol);
    • aromatic esters such as tridecyl trimellitate (MM=757.19 g/mol); and
    • esters of C₂₄-C₂₈ branched fatty acids or fatty alcohol such as those described in application EP-A-0 955 039, and in particular triisocetyl citrate (MM=865 g/mol), pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate (MM=697.05 g/mol), glyceryl triisotearate (PMM=891.51 g/mol), glyceryl tri decyl-2 tetradecanoate (MM=1143.98 g/mol), pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (MM=1202.02 g/mol), polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate (MM=1232.04 g/mol), or indeed pentaerythrityl tetra decyl-2 tetradecanoate (MM=1538.66 g/mol);
  • oils of vegetable origin such as sesame (MM=820.6 g/mol); and
  • mixtures thereof.

The liquid oily phase may represent 0.1% to 30% by weight, or 1% to 20% by weight, in particular 2% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

In particular exemplary embodiments, the composition does not have any liquid oily phase. In the context of the present embodiment, a composition that is said to have “no liquid oily phase” is a composition that has less than 51 and preferably less than 1% liquid oily phase.

The composition may also comprise at least one film-forming polymer, in particular selected from radical film-forming polymers, film-forming polycondensates, film-forming polymers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof.

Film-Forming Polymers

In the present embodiment, the term “film-forming polymer” means a polymer suitable on its own or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent for forming a macroscopically continuous film that adheres to the eyelashes, preferably a film that is cohesive, and better still a film having cohesion and mechanical properties that are such that said film can be isolated and manipulated in isolation, e.g. when said film is made by being poured onto a non-stick surface such as a Teflon-coated or silicon-coated surface.

Amongst the film-forming polymers that are suitable for use in the composition of the present embodiment, mention may be made of synthetic polymers of radical type or of polycondensate type, polymers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof.

The film-forming polymer(s) may be present in the composition at a dry extract content lying in the range 0.1% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the dry extract of said composition, preferably lying in the range 0.5% to 20% by weight, and better in the range 1% to 15% by weight.

The composition may also comprise at least one radical film-forming polymer.

Radical Film-Forming Polymers

The term “radical film-forming polymer” is used to mean a polymer obtained by polymerizing unsaturated monomers, in particular ethylenically unsaturated monomers, each monomer being suitable for homopolymerizing (unlike polycondensates).

The radical type film-forming polymers may in particular be vinyl polymers or copolymers, in particular acrylic polymers.

The vinyl film-forming polymers may be the result of polymerizing ethylenically unsaturated monomers having at least one acid group and/or esters of said acid monomers and/or amides of said acid monomers.

As a monomer carrying an acid group, it is possible to use α,β-ethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acids such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid. It is preferable to use (meth)acrylic acid and crotonic acid, and more preferably (meth)acrylic acid.

The esters of acid monomers are advantageously selected from esters of (meth)acrylic acid (also known as (meth)acrylates), in particular alkyl (meth)acrylates, in particular C₁-C₃₀ alkyl (meth)acrylates, preferably C₁-C₂₀ aryl (meth)acrylates, aryl (meth)acrylates, in particular C₆-C₁₀ aryl (meth)acrylates, hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylates, in particular C₂-C₆ hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylates.

Amongst alkyl (meth)acrylates, mention may be made of methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, ethyl-2 hexyl methacrylate, lauryl methacrylate, cyclohexyl methacrylate.

Amongst hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylates, mention may be made of hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate.

Amongst aryl (meth)acrylates, mention may be made of benzyl acrylate and of phenyl acrylate.

Particularly preferred esters of (meth)acrylic acid are alkyl (meth)acrylates.

In the present embodiment, the alkyl group of the esters may either be fluorinated, or perfluorinated, i.e. some or all of the hydrogen atoms of the alcohol group are substituted by fluorine atoms.

Amongst amides of acid monomers, mention may be made for example of (meth)acrylamides, and in particular N-alkyl (meth)acrylamides, in particular C₂-C₁₂ alkyl (meth)acrylamides. Amongst N-alkyl (meth)acrylamides, mention may be made of N-ethyl acrylamide, N-t-butyl acrylamide, N-t-octyl acrylamide, and N-undecylacrylamide.

The vinyl film-forming polymers may also be the result of homopolymerization or copolymerization of monomers selected from vinyl esters and styrene monomers. In particular, these monomers may be polymerized with acid monomers and/or their esters and/or their amides, such as those mentioned above.

As examples of vinyl esters, mention may be made of vinyl acetate, vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl pivalate, vinyl benzoate, and vinyl t-butyl benzoate.

As styrene monomers, mention may be made of styrene and alpha-methyl styrene.

The composition may also comprise at least one film-forming polycondensate.

Film-Forming Polycondensates

Amongst film-forming polycondensates, mention may be made of polyurethanes, polyesters, polyester amides, polyamides, epoxyester resins, and polyureas.

Polyurethanes may be selected from anionic, cationic, non-ionic, or amphoteric polyurethanes, acrylic polyurethanes, polyvinylpyrrolidone-polyurethanes, polyester-polyurethanes, polyether-polyurethanes, polyureas, polyurea-polyurethanes, and mixtures thereof.

In known manner, polyesters may be obtained by polycondensation of dicarboxylic acids with polyols, in particular with diols.

The dicarboxylic acid may be aliphatic, alicyclic, or aromatic. As examples of such acids, mention may be made of: oxalic acid, malonic acid, dimethylmalonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, 2,2-dimethylglutaric acid, azelaic acid, suberic acid, sebacic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid, phthalic acid, dodecanedioic acid, 1,3-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, 1,4-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,5-norbornane dicarboxylic acid, diglycolic acid, thiodipropionic acid, 2,5-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid, 2,6-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid. These dicarboxylic acid monomers may be used alone or in a combination of at least two dicarboxylic acid monomers. Amongst these monomers, it is preferable to select phthalic acid, isophthalic acid, or terephthalic acid.

The diol may be selected from aliphatic, alicyclic, and aromatic diols. Preferably, a diol is used that is selected from: ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, cyclohexane dimethanol, 4-butanediol. As other polyols, it is possible to use glycerol, pentaerythritol, sorbitol, trimethylol propane.

Amide polyesters may be obtained in a manner analogous to polyesters, by polycondensation of diacids with diamines or amino alcohols. As a diamine, it is possible to use ethylenediamine, hexamethylenediamine, meta- or para-phenylenediamine. As an aminoalcohol, it is possible to use monoethanolamine.

The polyester may also comprise at least one monomer carrying at least one —SO₃M group where M represented an atom of hydrogen, an ammonium ion NH₄⁺, or a metallic ion, such as for example one of the following ions: Na⁺, Li⁺, K⁺, Mg²⁺, Ca²⁺, Cu²⁺, Fe²⁺, Fe³⁺. In particular, it is possible to use a bifunctional aromatic monomer including such an —SO₃M group.

The aromatic ring of the bifunctional aromatic monomer also carrying an —SO₃M group as described above may be selected from the following rings: benzene, naphthalene, anthracene, diphenyl, oxydiphenyl, sulfonyldiphenyl, methylenediphenyl. As an example of a bifunctional aromatic monomer also carrying an —SO₃M group, mention may be made of: sulfoisophthalic acid, sulfoterephthalic acid, sulfophthalic acid, 4-sulfonaphthalene-2,7-dicarboxylic acid.

It is preferred to use copolymers based on isophthalate and sulfoisophthalate, and more particularly copolymers obtained by condensing diethyleneglycol, cyclohexane dimethanol, isophthalic acid, sulfoisophthalic acid.

In addition, the composition may comprise at least one film-forming polymer of natural origin.

Film-Forming Polymer of Natural Origin

Optionally-modified film-forming polymers of natural origin may be selected from: shellac resin, sandarac gum, dammars, elemi gums, copals, cellulose polymers, and mixtures thereof.

In exemplary embodiments of the composition, the film-forming polymer may be a hydrosoluble polymer and it may be present in the aqueous stage of the composition; the polymer is then dissolved in the aqueous phase of the composition.

In other variant exemplary embodiments of the composition, the film-forming polymer may be a polymer dissolved in a liquid oily phase comprising organic solvents or oils such as those described (the film-forming polymer is then said to be a liposoluble polymer). Preferably, the liquid oily phase comprises a volatile oil, possibly mixed with a non-volatile oil, which oils may be selected from the oils mentioned above.

As an example of a liposoluble polymer, mention may be made of copolymers of vinyl ester (the vinyl group being directly bonded to the oxygen atom of the ester group and the vinyl ester having a saturated, linear, or branched hydrocarbon radical with 1 to 19 carbon atoms bonded to the carbonyl of the ester group) and at least one other monomer which may be a vinyl ester (different from the already-present vinyl ester), an α-olefin (having 8 to 28 carbon atoms), an alkylvinylether (in which the alkyl group has 2 to 18 carbon atoms), an allyl or a methallyl ester (having a saturated, linear, or branched hydrocarbon radical with 1 to 19 carbon atoms bonded to the carbonyl of the ester group).

These copolymers may be cross-linked with the aid of agents that may be either of the vinyl type, or of the allyl or methallyl type, such as tetraallyloxyethane, divinylbenzene, divinyl octanedioate, divinyl dodecanedioate, and divinyl octadecanedioate.

As examples of these copolymers, mention may be made of the following copolymers: vinyl acetate and allyl stearate; vinyl acetate and vinyl laurate; vinyl acetate and vinyl stearate; vinyl acetate and octadecene; vinyl acetate and octadecylvinylether; vinyl propionate and allyl laurate; vinyl propionate and vinyl laurate; vinyl stearate and octadecene-1; vinyl acetate and dodecene-1; vinyl stearate and ethylvinylether; vinyl propionate and cetyl vinyl ether; vinyl stearate and allyl acetate; dimethyl-2,2 octanoate and vinyl laurate; allyl dimethyl-2,2 pentanoate and vinyl laurate; vinyl dimethyl propionate and vinyl stearate; allyl dimethyl propionate and vinyl stearate; vinyl propionate and vinyl stearate cross-linked with 0.2% divinyl benzene; vinyl dimethyl propionate and vinyl laurate cross-linked with 0.2% divinyl benzene; vinyl acetate and octadecyl vinyl ether cross-linked with 0.2% tetrallyloxyethane; vinyl acetate and allyl stearate cross-linked with 0.2% divinyl benzene; vinyl acetate and octadecene-1 cross-linked with 0.2% divinyl benzene; and allyl propionate and allyl stearate cross-linked with 0.2% divinyl benzene.

As liposoluble film-forming polymer, mention may also be made of liposoluble copolymers, and in particular those that result from copolymerizing vinyl esters having 9 to 22 carbon atoms or acrylates or alkyl methacrylates, the alkyl radicals having 10 to 20 carbon atoms.

Such liposoluble copolymers may be selected from copolymers of vinyl polystearate, vinyl polystearate cross-linked with the help of divinyl benzene, diallylether or diallyl phthalate, copolymers of stearyl poly(meth)acrylate, of vinyl polylaurate, of lauryl poly(meth)acrylate, these poly(meth)acrylates possibly being cross-linked with the help of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or tetraethylene glycol.

The above-defined liposoluble copolymers are known and described in particular in application FR-A-2 232 303; they may have a weight average molecular weight lying in the range 2000 to 500,000, and preferably in the range 4000 to 200,000.

As liposoluble film-forming copolymers suitable for use in an embodiment, mention may also be made of polyalkylenes, and in particular C₂-C₂₀ alcene copolymers such as polybutene, alkylcelluloses with an optionally saturated linear or branched C₁ to C₈ alkyl radical such as ethylcellulose and propylcellulose, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and in particular C₂ to C₄ and better C₃ to C₂₀ alkene and vinylpyrrolidone copolymers. As an example of a VP copolymer suitable for use in an embodiment, mention may be made of the following copolymers: VP and vinyl acetate; VP and ethyl methacrylate; butylated polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP); VP and ethyl methacrylate and methacrylic acid; VP and eicosene; VP and hexadecene; VP and triacontene; VP and styrene; VP and acrylic acid and lauryl methacrylate.

Mention may also be made of those silicone resins that are cross-linked polyorganosiloxane polymers, which resins are generally soluble in silicone oils or capable of being made to swell with silicon oils. The nomenclature of silicon resins is known under the name “MDTQ”, with the resin being described as a function of the various siloxane monomer units that it comprises, each of the letters MDTQ characterizing one type of unit.

As examples of polymethylsilsesquioxane resins that are commercially available, mention may be made of those that are sold:

• • by the supplier Wacker under the reference Resin MK such as Belsil PMS MK; and
  • by the supplier Shin-Etsu under the reference KR-220L.

As siloxysilicate resins, mention may be made of trimethylsiloxysilicate (TMS) resins such as those sold under the reference SR1000 by the supplier General Electric or under the reference TMS 803 by the supplier Wacker. Mention may also be made of the trimethylsiloxysilicate resins sold in a solvent such as cyclomethicone, sold under the names “KF-7312J” by the supplier Shin-Etsu, and “DC 749”, “DC 593” by the supplier Dow Corning.

It is also possible to mention copolymers of silicone resins such as those mentioned above together with polydimethylsiloxanes, such as the pressure-sensitive adhesive copolymers sold by the supplier Dow Corning under the reference BIO-PSA® and described in document U.S. Pat. No. 5,162,410 or indeed the silicone copolymers obtained by reacting a silicone resin, such as those described above, with a diorganosiloxane such as those described in document WO 2004/073626.

In exemplary embodiments, the film-forming polymer is a film-forming linear sequenced ethylenic polymer that preferably comprises at least one first sequence and at least one second sequence having different glass transition temperatures (Tg), said first and second sequences being connected together by an intermediate sequence comprising at least one of the monomers constituting the first sequence and at least one of the monomers constituting the second sequence.

Advantageously, the first and second sequences of the sequenced polymer are mutually incompatible.

Such polymers are described for example in documents EP 1 411 069 or WO 04/028488.

The film-forming polymer may also be present in the composition in the form of particles in dispersion in an aqueous phase or in a non-aqueous solvent phase, generally known as a latex or a pseudo-latex. Techniques for preparing such dispersions are well known to the person skilled in the art.

As an aqueous dispersion of film-forming polymer, it is possible to use the acrylic dispersions sold under the names Neocryl XK-90®, Neocryl A-10708, Neocryl A-1090®, Neocryl BT-62®, Neocryl A-1079®, and Neocryl A-523® by the supplier Avecia-Neoresins; Dow Latex 432® by the supplier Dow Chemical; Daitosol 5000 ADS or Daitosol 5000 SJ® by the supplier Daito Kasey Kogyo; Syntran 5760® by the supplier Interpolymer; Allianz OPT by the supplier Rohm & Haas; the aqueous dispersions of acrylic polymers or styrene/acrylic copolymers sold under the trademark Joncryl® by the supplier Johnson Polymer; or indeed aqueous dispersions of polyurethane sold under the names Neorez R-9818 and Neorez R-9740 by the supplier Avecia-Neoresins; Avalure UR-405®, Avalure UR-4108, Avalure UR-4258, Avalure UR-4500, Sancure 875®, Sancure 8618, Sancure 878®, and Sancure 2060® by the supplier Goodrich; Impranil 85® by the supplier sayer; Aquamere H-1511® from the supplier Hydromer; the sulfopolyesters sold under the trademark Eastman AQ® by the supplier Eastman Chemical Products; the vinyl dispersions such as Mexomer PAM® by the supplier Chimex; and mixtures thereof.

As examples of non-aqueous dispersions of film-forming polymer, mention may be made of acrylic dispersions in isododecane such as Mexomer PAP® from the supplier Chimex, dispersions of particles of a grafted ethylenic polymer, preferably an acrylic polymer, in a liquid oily phase, the ethylenic polymer advantageously being dispersed in the absence of an additional stabilizer on the surfaces of the particles, as described in particular in document WO 04/055081.

The composition may also comprise at least one plasticizer encouraging the formation of a film by the film-forming polymer. Such a plasticizer may be selected from all of the compounds known to the person skilled in the art as being suitable for performing the looked-for function.

The composition may also be in the form of a composition comprising a continuous oily phase. This oily phase may comprise at least one compound selected from waxes, semi-crystalline polymers, lipophilic gelling agents, pasty compounds, oils, and lipophilic film-forming polymers as mentioned above.

When the composition comprises a continuous oily phase, it is preferably present at a content greater than 40%, preferably greater than 45% by weight, and better greater than 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Under such circumstances, the quantities of waxes, of semi-crystalline polymers, of lipophilic gelling agents, of pasty compounds, and of lipophilic film-forming polymers as mentioned above are preferably each independently in compliance with that which is set out above; the quantity of oil(s) is preferably greater than 40%, preferably greater than 45% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; finally, and preferably, the quantities of water and/or hydrosoluble solvents, of surfactant, and of hydrophilic gelling agents are each independently less than or equal to 10% by weight, and preferably less than or equal to 5% by weight.

The composition may also comprise at least one coloring material.

Coloring Material(s)

The composition may comprise at least one coloring material selected from powder materials, liposoluble colorants, and hydrosoluble colorants. Powder coloring materials may be selected from pigments and nacres (mother of pearl).

The pigments may be white or colored, inorganic and/or organic, coated or uncoated. Amongst inorganic pigments, mention may be made of titanium dioxide, possibly surface-treated, zirconium, zinc, or cerium oxides, and oxides of iron or chromium, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, and ferric blue. Amongst organic pigments, mention may be made of carbon black, pigments of the D&C type, laques based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum.

The nacres may be selected from white nacreous pigments such as mica covered in titanium or bismuth oxychloride, colored nacreous pigments such as titanium mica with ion oxides, titanium mica with ferric blue or chromium oxide in particular, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the above-specified type, and nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

By way of example, the liposoluble colorants are Sudan red, D&C Red 17, D&C Green 6, β-carotene, soy oil, Sudan brown, D&C Yellow 11, D&C Violet 2, D&C Orange 5, quinoline yellow, norbixin.

The coloring material(s) may be present in the composition at a content lying in the range 0.01% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

The composition may also comprise at least one filler.

Filler(s)

The fillers may be selected from those well known to the person skilled in the art and commonly used in cosmetic compositions. The fillers may be organic or mineral, lamellar or spherical. Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, powders of polyamide such as Nylon sold under the name Orgasol® by the supplier Arkema France, poly-β-alanine and polyethylene, powders of tetraluoroethylene polymers such as Teflon®, lauroyl-lyzine, starch, boron nitride, expanded hollow polymer microspheres such as those made of polyvinylidene chloride and acrylonitril such as those sold under the name Expancel® by the supplier Nobel Industrie, acrylic powders such as those sold under the name Polytrap® by the supplier Dow Corning, particles of poly methyl methyacrylate and microbeads of silicone resin such as those sold under the name Tospearls® by the supplier Toshiba, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydro-carbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres such as those sold under the name Silica Beads® by the supplier Maprecos, glass or ceramic microcapsules, metallic soaps derived from carboxylic organic acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, and in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms, e.g. zinc, magnesium, or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate.

It is also possible to use a compound suitable for swelling when heated and in particular thermo-expandible particles, such as non-expanded microspheres of vinylidene chloride and acrylonitrile and methyl methacrylate copolymer, or of the copolymer of acrylonitrile homopolymer, such as, for example, those sold respectively under the references Expancel® 820DU40 and Expancel® 007WU by the supplier Akzo Nobel.

The filler(s) may represent 0.1% to 25% by weight, in particular 1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The coloring material(s) and/or the filler(s) may also be present in the form of a “particulate paste”.

When the composition contains particles that are solid at ambient temperature, it is prepared by introducing them into the composition in the form of a colloidal dispersion also known as a “particulate paste”, as described in application WO 02/39961, the content of which is incorporated in the present application by reference.

The term colloidal dispersion or “particulate paste” is used in the meaning of an embodiment to designate a concentrated colloidal dispersion of optionally coated particles in a continuous medium, stabilized with the help of a dispersing agent or optionally without a dispersing agent. The particles may be selected from pigments, nacres, solid fillers, and mixtures thereof. The particles may be of any shape, in particular of spherical shape or elongate light fibers. They are insoluble in the medium.

The dispersing agent serves to protect the dispersed particles against agglomerating or flocculating. The concentration of dispersing agent that is generally used for stabilizing a colloidal dispersion is 0.3 milligrams per square meter (mg/m²) to 5 mg/m², preferably 0.5 mg/m² to 4 mg/m², relative to the surface area of the particle. The dispersing agent may be a surfactant, an oligomer, a polymer, or a mixture of several of them, carrying one or more functions with strong affinity for the surfaces of the particles to be dispersed. In particular, they may attach physically or chemically to the surfaces of pigments. These dispersing agents also present at least one functional group that is compatible with or soluble in the continuous medium. In particular, use is made of esters of 12 hydroxy stearic acid, in particular, and of C₈ to C₂₀ fatty acid and of polyol such as glycerol, diglycerine, such as poly(12 hydroxy stearic) acid stearate of molecular weight of about 750 g/mol such as that sold under the name of Solsperse® 21000 by the supplier Avecia, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (INCI name) sold under the reference Dehymyls®PGPH by the supplier Henkel, or indeed polyhydroxystearic acid such as that sold under the reference Arlacel®P100 by the supplier Uniqema, and mixtures thereof.

As another dispersing agent suitable for use in the composition, mention may be made of quaternary ammonium derivatives of polycondensed fatty acids such as Solsperse® 17000 sold by the supplier Avecia, mixtures of poly dimethylsiloxane and oxypropylene such as those sold by the supplier Dow Corning under the references DC2-5185, DC2-5225 C.

Polydihydroxystearic acid and esters of 12 hydroxy stearic acid are preferably for use in a hydrocarbon or fluorinated medium, whereas mixtures of oxyethylene dimethylsiloxane and oxypropylene are preferably for use in a silicone medium.

The colloidal dispersion is a suspension of particles that are generally of micrometer size (<10 μm) in a continuous medium. The volume fraction of the particles in a concentrated dispersion lies in the range 20% to 40%, and is preferably greater than 30%, which corresponds to a weight content that may be as much as 70%, depending on the density of the particles.

The particles dispersed in the medium may be constituted by inorganic or organic particles or mixtures thereof, such as those described below.

The continuous medium of the paste may be any medium and it may contain any solvent or liquid oily body and mixtures thereof. Advantageously, the liquid medium of the particulate paste is one of the liquid oily bodies or oils that it is desired to use in the composition, thus forming part of the liquid oily phase.

Advantageously, the “particulate paste” or colloidal dispersion is a “pigment paste” containing a colloidal dispersion of colored particles that are optionally coated. These colored particles are pigments, nacres, or a mixture of pigments and/or nacres.

Advantageously, the colloidal dispersion represents 0.5% to 30% by weight of the composition, better 2% to 20%, and better still 2% to 15%.

The composition may also comprise at least one fiber.

Fibers

The term “fiber” designates an object of length L and of diameter D such that L is much greater than D, where D is the diameter of the circle in which the section of the fiber is inscribed. In particular, the ratio LID (or form factor) is selected to lie in the range 3.5 to 2500, in particular in the range 5 to 500, and more particularly in the range 5 to 150.

The fibers suitable for use in the composition may be inorganic or organic fibers of synthetic or natural origin. They may be short or long, unitary or organized for example as braids, and they may be hollow or solid. They may be of arbitrary shape and in particular of section that is circular or polygonal (square, hexagonal, or octagonal) depending on the specific intended application. In particular, their ends are blunted and/or polished in order to avoid injury.

In particular, the fibers are of a length lying in the range 1 μm to 10 mm, in particular in the range 0.1 mm to 5 mm, and more particularly in the range 0.3 mm to 3.5 mm. Their section may lie within a circle of diameter lying in the range 2 nm to 500 μm, in particular lying in the range of 100 nm to 100 μm, and more particularly in the range of 1 μm to 50 μm. The weight or size of the fibers is often given in denier or in decitex and represents the weight in grams for a fiber having a length of 9 kilometers (km). Fibers may in particular be of a size selected to lie in the range 0.15 denier to 30 denier, and in particular 0.18 denier to 18 denier.

The fibers usable in the composition may be selected from rigid or non-rigid fibers, and their origin may be synthetic or natural, general or organic.

Furthermore, fibers may optionally be surface-treated, optionally coated, colored, or not colored.

As fibers suitable for use in the composition, mention may be made of non-rigid fibers such as polyamide fibers (Nylon®) or rigid fibers such as polyamide-amide fibers such as those sold under the names Kermel®, Kermel Tech® by the supplier Rhodia or poly-(p-phenylene-terephthalamide) (or aramid) sold in particular under the name Kevlar® by the supplier Dupont De Nemours.

The fibers may be present in the composition at a content lying in the range 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular 0.1% to 5% by weight, and more particularly 0.3% to 3% by weight.

Compositions may further comprise any additive usually used in cosmetics such as antioxidants, preservatives, fragrances, neutralizers, thickeners, vitamins, moisturizers, filters, in particular sun screens, coalescence agents, plasticizers, and mixtures thereof.

Naturally, the person skilled in the art will take care to select any additional additives and/or the quantities thereof in such a manner that the advantageous properties of compositions are substantially or completely unaltered by the intended addition.

Devices

FIG. 1 shows an example of a packaging and applicator device 1 of an embodiment.

The device 1 comprises a handle member 2, a stem 3 connected to the handle member 2, and an applicator member 4 connected to the stem 3.

The applicator member 4 of axis X comprises a core 5 from which there extend projecting elements 6 (also referred to as applicator elements) that are disposed radially all around the core 5, and a block 7 of composition P carried by the core 5.

The composition P may include the ingredients mentioned above and in particular may present shear hardness lying in the range 375 g/m to 5000 g/m.

In the example of FIGS. 1 and 2, the composition P is in the form of a monolithic block 7 that completely surrounds the core 5.

By way of example, the projecting elements 6 are bristles or teeth made by injection-molding thermoplastic material together with the core 5, and they have their proximal portions 6a buried in the block 7 on first use, while their distal portions 6b lie radially outside the block 7.

In the example of FIG. 2, the block 7 comes in contact with the core 5, the thickness of the block 7 being for example substantially uniform over 360° around the longitudinal axis X of the core.

By way of example, the projecting elements 6 are disposed in longitudinal rows, each row having five to 40 projecting elements, for example.

Naturally, any other arrangement of projecting elements adapted to the application of the makeup is possible without thereby going beyond the ambit of the present embodiment. In particular, the projecting elements may have orientations that are not radial.

FIG. 3 shows the possibility of using an applicator member constituted by a twisted-core brush. Such a brush has projecting elements constituted by bristles that are trapped between two metal branches of the core, which branches are themselves twisted together.

The block 7 of composition coats the core 5, at least in the portion thereof that carries the projecting elements 6. These elements present distal portions that project from the block 7.

The brush that carries the composition P may be of any known type, and in particular it may be any one of the types that appear in prior applications in the name of the Applicant, e.g. in patent application EP 1 977 661 and EP 1 977 662, the content of which is incorporated herein by reference.

The envelope surface defined by the free ends of the projecting elements 6 may define a cross-section of outline that is circular, at least in part, e.g. an outline that is circular over at least 180° around the core, or indeed completely circular, at least at one point along the core, in particular at a maximum thereof or over at least a portion of the length of the core, e.g. over the entire length of the portion of the core that carries the projecting elements.

The projecting elements may also be bristles or teeth carried by the core, the distal end of the applicator member possibly being defined by the core or by at least one tooth.

The projecting elements may extend in at least three different directions around the core and they may define an envelope surface that increases up to a maximum and then decreases in cross-section towards the free end of the applicator member, e.g. being generally spherical in shape.

The angle formed by the slope of the envelope surface in at least one longitudinal section on either side of the maximum may be greater than 120°, better greater than 130°, better still greater than 135°.

The slopes defining the angle may be straight lines closely fitting the envelope surface on either side of the maximum. They may be tangential to a portion of the envelope surface adjacent to the maximum, said portion extending over a length measured along the longitudinal axis of the core that is equal to 1 mm, for example. The slopes may also be straight lines passing through the maximum and intersecting the envelope surface at a distance from the maximum as measured along the longitudinal axis of the core that is equal to 1 mm.

The total length along the longitudinal axis of the envelope surface may be less than or equal to twice the greatest diameter of the cross-section of the envelope surface, better greater than 1.75 times the greatest diameter, better still greater than 1.5 times or 1.25 times.

The term “greatest diameter” should be understood as being the transverse dimension of the envelope surface even if its cross-section does not present an outline that is circular.

The term “total length” should be understood as the total length of the envelope surface defined by the projecting elements as measured along the longitudinal axis of the core.

The ratio corresponding to the greatest diameter of the cross-section of the envelope surface divided by the diameter of the core may be greater than 2.5, better greater than or equal to 3, the diameter of the core corresponding to the diameter in which the cross-section of the core is inscribed.

As mentioned above, the applicator member may have an envelope surface that is of generally spherical shape, which surface may be associated with the projecting elements being of varying lengths or with a variation in the diameter of the core supporting them, which variation is observed along the longitudinal axis of the applicator member.

FIG. 16 shows an applicator having an envelope surface that presents a cross-section of outline that is substantially circular.

As shown, the envelope surface may be spherical to within 20%, at least over its portion that extends from a plane where the transverse dimension defined by the envelope surface E is at a maximum all the way to a distal end 21 of the applicator.

The applicator may include projecting elements that project towards the proximal end of the applicator. The applicator may include projecting elements 6 extending in more than four directions around the axis of the core, better extending in at least eight directions around the axis of the core.

The projecting elements 6 may be arranged in rows that extend along the core and they may be angularly distributed around the axis of the core.

In the example shown, the core is solid, however it could be hollow in a variant that is not shown.

As shown, the core and the envelope surface E may pass through a maximum transverse section at a common axial position along the longitudinal axis of the core.

In the variant shown in FIG. 17, the projecting elements 6 are of varying height such that their free ends define the profile desired for the envelope surface E. By way of example, the core is elongate in shape, e.g. cylindrical, as shown.

In FIGS. 16 and 17, the applicator is shown without any composition for reasons of clarity.

Regardless of whether the core is or is not made of the same material as the projecting elements 6, the block 7 of composition P may be given a variety of shapes, and for example it may present a cross-section that is flat so that the block 7 has opposite faces 7a that both extend over a relatively large area, thereby making it easier to load composition onto the eyelashes.

On first use of the applicator member all of the projecting elements made emerge from the block 7, or in a variant, some of these projecting elements, e.g. the shortest bristles, may be completely embedded in the block. These bristles may be uncovered progressively as the block 7 wears away.

The thickness of the block 7 may be non-uniform around the longitudinal axis X of the core, as shown in FIG. 5, e.g. because the block 7 is located eccentrically relative to the core.

The eccentric nature of the block 7, or a non-circularly symmetrical shape for the block, may improve making up, e.g. making it possible to impart a certain movement to the eyelashes during application.

FIG. 6 shows the possibility of the applicator member including a block of composition that is in the form of a coating that completely covers the core 5 and more than half of the height of the projecting elements 6 on first use.

FIG. 7 shows the possibility that the block 7 of composition is not supported by the core 5 but only by the projecting elements 6, with annular clearance 11 being formed between the radially inside surface of the block 7 and the core, for example. The projecting elements may be in intimate contact with the block 7 of composition, in particular when the composition is cast while hot on the projecting elements 6.

In a variant, the block 7 may include passages that are formed before the block is put into place on the core and the projecting elements, with the projecting elements extending in the passages once the block has been put into place.

The block 7 may be made of a single composition of uniform consistency. In a variant, as shown in FIGS. 8 and 9, the block 7 may comprise two compositions P1 and P2 with different formulations, e.g. each occupying a given angular sector around the longitudinal axis of the applicator member, as shown in FIG. 8, or in a variant being juxtaposed in the axial direction, as shown in FIG. 9.

By way of example, it is possible to envisage having one composition that is a “care product”, containing one or more active agents, and one composition that comprises makeup, or indeed one composition that is “washable” and another composition that is “waterproof”. The user may decide to apply one or the other of the compositions, or one of the compositions on the other composition, e.g. applying the waterproof composition on top of the washable composition so as to make it waterproof.

It is also possible to envisage having one composition for lengthening eyelashes and another for building them up, with the user selecting which makeup effect to apply.

The block 7 may be cast or injected while in the fluid state so as to come into contact with the core 5 and the projecting elements 6, thus making it possible to use the core and/or the projecting elements as strength members for mechanically reinforcing the block of composition.

The block 7 may also be molded with a shape that enables it to be mounted on an applicator member comprising the core 5 and the projecting elements 6, e.g. an injection-molded brush or a twisted-core brush, as shown in FIG. 10.

In this figure, there can be seen the block 7 with branches 7b that engage on the core and the projecting elements 6.

The branches 7b extend longitudinally and they are connected to one another at both ends by annular portions.

The composition may optionally be carried by a strength member 65 that is covered at least in part by the composition, e.g. a strength member made of thermoplastic material, as shown in FIG. 11. The strength member may have branches, each carrying a corresponding block 7 of composition, these branches being connected together at one end. When the support 65 is in place on the core and the projecting elements, the projecting elements may project through gaps that extend between the blocks 7.

After the composition has been worn away, the support may be replaced by a new support or the user may retain the support and mold one or more blocks of composition in contact therewith by using a suitable mold.

As shown in FIG. 12, the block may also be in the form of a spring that is carried by a helical support coated in composition. Such a spring may be mounted on an injection-molded brush or a twisted-core brush, in such a manner that the projecting elements project between the turns in order to apply the makeup. The composition P may present properties enabling application to be performed at ambient temperature, in particular hardness that is sufficiently low to enable the user at ambient temperature to deposit a sufficient quantity of composition on the eyelashes.

Where appropriate, the composition may be heated, at least on its surface, by means of a heater system 20, with an example being shown in FIG. 14.

In this figure, the heater system 20 is incorporated in a protective cover arranged to cover the applicator member and the block 7 of composition while not in use.

By way of example, the handle member 2 is arranged to fasten onto the heater system 20. While the handle member 2 is fastened thereto in this way, the user can set the heater system into operation, e.g. by means of a switch 22, and the block of composition P may be heated on its surface by any appropriate heater system, e.g. an electrical resistance element extending around the block 7 when the applicator member is in place in the heater system.

Other means may be used to raise the temperature of the composition for application purposes, e.g. a heater system incorporated in the core 5. Under such circumstances, the temperature to which the block of composition is heated may be selected so that it remains solid while decreasing in hardness.

FIG. 18 shows the possibility of the block 7 of composition extending around the longitudinal axis X of the applicator member over an angular extent that corresponds to less than one complete revolution, e.g. over an angular extent of angle α greater than 30°, better 45°, or indeed 60°, 90°, 120°, 180°, or more.

When the applicator member has projecting elements 6 that extend all around the longitudinal axis of the applicator member, this makes it possible to benefit on the applicator member both from projecting elements 6 that are embedded over a fraction of their length in the composition P, and other projecting elements that are not embedded therein.

The applicator member may be of any type, e.g. a brush having a twisted metal core or a brush made by injection-molding a thermoplastic material. In variant exemplary embodiments, the block 7 of composition P extends over less than one complete revolution around the longitudinal axis of the applicator member, with the thickness of the composition not being constant.

The applicator elements 6 that extend at least in part in the composition P, and those that do not extend within the composition P, may be of the same nature or they may be of differing natures, e.g. of differing lengths, and/or being subjected to different end treatments, and/or having different surface states, and/or having different diameters, and/or being made of different materials.

Putting the Block of Composition into Place on the Core and the Projecting Elements

The block of composition may be made separately from the applicator member and the projecting elements and it may be put into place by being fitted thereto, as described above, possibly being secured to a support.

It is also possible to cast the composition into contact with the core and/or the projecting elements, with the composition forming a one-piece solid block after cooling or drying, which block remains secured to the core and to the projecting elements while the applicator member is in use.

By way of example, in order to cast the composition it is possible to immerse the applicator member in a mold that contains the composition in the liquid state, or to cast the composition in the liquid state into a mold and then insert the applicator member therein.

A drawback of acting in this way may be that all of the projecting elements are completely covered in the composition on being extracted from the mold. Under such circumstances, the block may be subjected to partial stripping or abrasion so as to cause at least the tips of the applicator elements to emerge from the block and thus give the device the ability to perform combing as from first use.

It is also possible to apply heat treatment so as to cause surplus composition to remelt, which surplus can then be removed either by suction or by being absorbed into a foam.

As shown in FIG. 15, it is also possible to use a mold that is arranged to receive the projecting elements 6 while avoiding them being completely covered in composition when the composition is cast into the mold.

By way of example, the mold may comprise an inner portion 40 having slots 41 for passing rows of projecting elements 6, and an outer portion 43 that can occupy two positions, namely a position in which the slots 41 are uncovered, thereby enabling the applicator member to be inserted into the mold and withdrawn therefrom by being moved axially, and a position (not shown) in which the slots 41 are closed, with closing combs 45 then engaging between the projecting elements 6 so as to close the clearance that exists between them and prevent composition from leaking out through this clearance when the composition is cast.

A mold as shown in FIG. 15 may be used during fabrication of the device or optionally by a user in order to reform the block of composition after it has been worn away, it being possible for example for the user to introduce the composition in the solid state into the mold and then to make it fluid by applying heat, or to introduce the composition directly in the liquid state, while the applicator member is present in the mold. After cooling, the user may move the outer portion 43 relative to the inner portion 20 in order to disengage the rows of projecting elements.

The composition may also be contained in the stem 3 of the device and the device may include a heater system in the applicator member as described in FR 2 914 161. The core 5 may include orifices enabling the composition as melted by the heater system to flow through the orifices to the outside of the core. By melting the composition while the applicator member is disposed in a mold, a block 7 of composition may be formed on cooling around the core and covering the projecting elements, at least at their bases.

In general, it is possible to make provision for the applicator member to be mounted removably on the stem so as to be able to change the applicator member after the block of composition has worn away. The user may be provided with a plurality of applicator members carrying different compositions, for mounting selectively on a common stem, depending on the treatment that is to be performed.

Composition Example

Formulation

Monel name	INCI name	% by weight
Glyceryl stearate	Glyceryl stearate	2.79
PEG-30 glyceryl stearate	PEG-30 glyceryl stearate	7.19
Beeswax	Cera alba	9.29
Hydrogenated jojoba oil	Hydrogenated jojoba oil	9.29
Butylparaben	Butylparaben	0.16
Ethylparaben	Ethylparaben	0.13
Polybutene	Polybutene	1.30
2-oleamido-1,3-	2-oleamido-1,3-	0.13
octadecanediol
Iron oxide	CI 77499*	9.08
Polyquarternium-10	Polyquarternium-10	5.02
Water	Aqua	55.00
Glycerin	Glycerin	0.13
Methyl hydrobenzoate	Methylparaben	0.31
Disodium EDTA	Disodium EDTA	0.13
Sodium hydroxide	Sodium hydroxide	0.006
		100.00
*Sold under the reference Tagat S by the supplier Evonik Goldschmidt.

Method of Fabricating the Composition of the Example

150 g of the formulation was made using the following protocol:

• • the aqueous phase (water, polyquarternium-10, methylparaben, EDTA, and sodium hydroxide) was heated in a beaker to 90° C.
  • the oily phase (glyceryl stearate, PEG-30 glyceryl stearate, beeswax, hydrogenated jojoba oil, butylparaben, ethyl hydroxybenzoate, polybutene, and pigments) was homogenized with a rotor-stator stirrer of the Moritz type in a melting pot at 90° C.;
  • the aqueous phase was added to the oily phase under strong stirring (4500 revolutions per minute (rpm)), the emulsion was obtained by phase inversion; and
  • stirring was maintained for 10 minutes and then the emulsion was cast into molds containing brushes and set at 28° C., for 45 minutes. The blocks were unmolded together with the applicator members.

The embodiments are not limited to the examples described.

The expression “comprising a” should be understood as being synonymous with “comprising at least one”.

Claims

1. A packaging and applicator device for at least one solid cosmetic composition for application to the eyelashes, the eyebrows, or the hair, the device comprising:

a handle member;

a stem connected to the handle member, the stem having and axis; and

an applicator member connected to the stem, the applicator member having:

a core secured to the stem; and

applicator elements, each having a base secured to the core and an end opposite the base, extending from the base in a direction transverse to the axis of the stem to the end opposite from said base, at least some of the applicator elements having their bases disposed inside a solid block of said composition, said block presenting an outer envelope extending part or all of the way around the axis, and situated, prior to first use of the device, between the bases and the opposite ends of the applicator elements, at a non-zero distance therefrom;

the composition being dispersible while dry, with or without assistance from heat.

2. A device according to claim 1, the composition presenting shear hardness lying in the range 200 g/m to 5000 g/m.

3. A packaging and applicator device for at least one solid cosmetic composition for application to the eyelashes, the eyebrows, or the hair, the device comprising:

a handle member;

a stem connected to the handle member, the stem having an axis; and

an applicator members connected to the stem, the applicator member having:

a core secured to the stem; and

applicator elements, each having a base secured to the core and an end opposite the base, extending from the base in a direction transverse to the axis of the stem to the end opposite from said base, at least some of the applicator elements having their bases disposed inside a solid block of said composition, said block presenting an outer envelope extending part or all of the way around the axis, and situated, prior to first use of the device, between the bases and the opposite ends of the applicator elements, at a non-zero distance therefrom;

the composition having shear hardness lying in the range 200 g/m to 5000 g/m.

4. A device according to claim 1, the block covering all of the applicator elements, at least in part.

5. A device according to claim 1, the applicator elements being embedded in the composition over at least 30% of their height.

6. A device according to claim 1, the composition being capable of being made fluid by applying heat, and the device including a heater system.

7. A device according to claim 6, the heater system being separable from the applicator member in order to bring the applicator member into contact with the eyelashes, eyebrows, or hair.

8. A device according to claim 1, the applicator elements being molded with the core.

9. A device according to claim 1, the applicator elements being bristles carried by a twisted core.

10. A device according to claim 1, the block having a cross-section that is not circular.

11. A method of coating fibers selected from eyelashes, eyebrows, or hair, the method comprising:

subjecting said fibers to contact with at least a portion of a surface of a block of composition of a device as defined in claim 1; and

proceeding to cause the surface of the block and the fibers to move relative to one another so as to cause the block to disperse and a deposit of at least one layer of cosmetic composition to be formed on the fibers.

12. A method according to claim 11, the composition being applied without prior heating.

13. A method according to claim 11, the composition being applied after prior heating.

14. A method according to claim 13, the block of composition remaining with a solid core during application.

15. A method according to claim 1, the composition being in a fluid state when brought into contact with the applicator member during fabrication of the device.