Product with Improved Optical Characteristics
Cut product manufactured from a rough (semi) precious stone material, more particularly from diamond, comprising a lower part (pavilion) with a bottom end (culet); an upper part (crown) with a number of facets and a top end (a point with table width 0 or a top surface (table) with a table width); and a girdle between lower part and upper part, wherein the lower part comprises a number of girdle pavilion facets which describe a first angle a1 relative to the plane of the girdle and a number of culet facets which each describe a smaller second angle a2 relative to the plane of the girdle; wherein the average second angle a2 lies between 28 and 38 degrees; and wherein the ratio of the table width and the width of the girdle is 0 to 0.40.
The present invention relates to a cut product manufactured from a (rough) natural or synthetic (semi)precious stone material, more particularly from natural or synthetic diamond, comprising:
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- a lower part (pavilion) with a bottom end (culet);
- an upper part (crown) with a number of facets and a top end (a point with table width 0 or a top surface (table) with a table width); and
- a girdle between lower part and upper part.
Note that, in the case of synthetic diamond, the starting material (substrate) can be manufactured by any technical process, such as for instance chemical vapour deposition (CVD) or an HTHP process (high pressure high temperature process). An example of a CVD process is the process used by Apollo Diamonds Inc.
PRIOR ARTA cut of a precious stone is defined by its facets. These facets have a specific shape, a specific location and a specific angular position relative to each other. The combination of the specific shape, location and angular position of the different facets defines the cut. The angular position of the different facets of a cut are defined by the proportion parameters of this cut.
The value of a cut diamond is determined to a significant extent by the four Cs: Cut, Clarity, Carat and Colour. These are respectively the cut, the clarity, the weight and the colour of a cut diamond.
‘Cut’ is understood to mean the finish of the stone. The shape in which the stone is cut forms part of this. The finish relates to the quality of the cutting and the ratios of the cut form.
‘Clarity’ is the clarity of brightness of cut diamond. The stone can have both internal and external flaws. The internal flaws usually consist of carbon residues which have not fully crystallized, or glets (internal fissures). They occur in many different forms but also in various grades of intensity. Growth lines which show the structure of the rough stone. There are also external characteristics, such as bearding which is left when the stone is cut too hard. It is also possible that natural remains when the stone is cut too little. Both characteristics can be seen on the girdle. All these characteristics determine the clarity of the stone, which is divided into different categories: Flawless, VVS1, VVS2, VS1, VS2, SI, Pique 1, Pique 2, Pique 3. The assessment hereof is carried out by the trained eye of the diamond merchant or in laboratories, under the microscope.
The weight of precious stones (Carat) is expressed in Carat (1 carat=0.2 gram). The carat is sub-divided into 100 points and is always expressed to two decimals, for instance 0.24 carat or 24 points.
Colour is always subjective. The whiter the colour, the higher the price. The colour is determined on the basis of a set of so-called master stones. This is a set of stones assessed by various leading diamond merchants and having different colours in the highest grades, which are deemed as a standard. The assessment usually takes place by eye. Electronic assessments are also possible nowadays.
The valuation of cut diamonds is however more complex in practice than measuring or determining the 4 Cs. In addition to the combination of the different Cs, the assessment of the colour, the clarity and the cut is often subjective. The finish and the life of a stone are moreover also taken into account. The life of a stone is a subjective measure of the brilliance of a diamond. The value of a cut diamond cannot therefore be fully determined on the basis of the 4 Cs. In this context reference is made to colour, brilliance, fire, scintillation and life as the optical characteristics.
Conventional cuts such as for instance brilliant, pear or oval have a specific shape because these specific shapes produce the ‘most beautiful’ cut diamonds. The assumption that these cuts produce the finest diamonds is based on the original work of Tolkowsky. Tolkowsky developed the modern brilliant in 1919. This brilliant, the Tolkowsky cut or Tolkowsky Brilliant, is the reference for living stones. A stone has life when it has beautiful brilliance and thus possesses optimal optical characteristics.
The optical characteristics of a cut diamond are explained by various physical effects, of which the most important are the overall internal reflection and refraction of light on the surfaces. Since diamond has a very high refractive index (2.42), with a very small critical angle as a result, total reflection of the light will occur on many cut surfaces. The light will only leave the diamond at a small number of cut surfaces. In this context the cut has an extremely great influence on the refraction and the overall internal reflection.
It is generally accepted that Tolkowsky performed the first mathematical calculations which took into account the optical characteristics of a diamond. Tolkowsky calculated the ‘ideal’ proportion parameters of a brilliant. In other words, the proportion parameters are the degrees of freedom of a cut. Table 1 describes the limits of the different proportion parameters per category in respect of the assessment of the optical characteristics of conventional diamond cuts.
The cutting of new diamonds is thus limited by the above proportion parameters.
The InventionThe present invention has for its object to provide a cut product of the type stated in the preamble, wherein the optical characteristics as defined above are better than for a cut product which is cut according to the existing indicated proportion parameters.
For this purpose the invention is distinguished here in that the lower part comprises a number of girdle pavilion facets which describe an angle a1 relative to the plane of the girdle and a number of culet facets which each describe a smaller second angle a2 relative to the plane of the girdle; wherein the average second angle a2 lies between 28 and 38 degrees; and wherein the ratio of the table size and the size of the girdle is 0 to 0.40.
Applicant has surprisingly found that by providing such facets and with a suitable choice of the smaller second angle and of the table dimensions, the light is reflected optimally in the stone, this resulting in improved optical properties. Note that the table dimensions are clearly smaller than what is usual according to conventional views (see the table above) and that angle a2 is smaller than is usual.
According to a preferred embodiment, the average second angle a2 lies between 25 degrees and 35 degrees, more preferably between 29 degrees and 33 degrees, and is for instance about 31 degrees. According to an even better variant, each second angle a2 lies between 28 degrees and 35 degrees, more preferably still between 29 degrees and 33 degrees, and is for instance about 31 degrees.
According to yet another aspect, the invention is distinguished in that the ratio of the table size and the size of the girdle is 0 to 0.3, and preferably either a point or a table with a table size amounting to between 10 and 30% of the size of the girdle.
The size of the table and the orientation of the facets of the upper and lower parts are further preferably optimized in order to reflect the lower part in at least a number of the facets of the upper part, and typically in the table bezel facets and/or the table and/or the girdle bezel facets.
The girdle pavilion facets are typically located above the culet facets, wherein each culet facet adjoins the bottom end and each girdle pavilion facet adjoins the girdle. According to a possible embodiment, the culet facets adjoin the girdle pavilion facets, although it is also possible for additional pavilions facet to be provided between the girdle and culet facets. Preferably at least three, and more preferably at least four, and for instance six, seven or eight girdle pavilion facets and culet facets are arranged.
According to yet another aspect of the invention, a number of bezels are provided between the top end and the girdle, wherein the number of bezels is equal to the number of pavilions (this is the number of girdle or culet facets) and the bezels are twisted relative to the pavilions through a twist angle γ. This is particularly useful when the number of bezels and pavilions is even. Note that each bezel can consist of a table bezel facet which adjoins the table and a girdle bezel facet which adjoins the girdle, wherein extra bezel facets can optionally also be included between the table bezel facets and the girdle bezel facets.
According to a variant in which this aspect is further developed, the twist angle is optimized as a function of the dimensions, and particularly as a function of the length, height and width of the stone, in order to obtain a reflection of the lower part in the bezels and/or in the table.
According to a possible embodiment, the average first angle a1 of the girdle pavilion facets lies between 15 and 80 degrees. Angles a2 and/or a1 can be further optimized for a cut product with the greatest possible volume.
According to another aspect, the invention is distinguished in that the upper part is a crown with table bezel facets and girdle bezel facets, which girdle bezel facets describe a first angle β1 relative to the plane of the girdle, and which table bezel facets describe a second, smaller angle β2 relative to the plane of the girdle. The average first angle β1 of the girdle bezel facets relative to the plane of the girdle preferably lies between 35 degrees and 50 degrees, more preferably between 39 degrees and 43 degrees, and is most preferably about 41 degrees. The average second angle β2 preferably lies between 5 and 50 degrees, preferably between 30 and 50 degrees, and for instance between 31 and 41 degrees.
According to a preferred embodiment, the girdle bezel facets are located below the table bezel facets, wherein each table bezel facet adjoins the top end and each girdle bezel facet adjoins the girdle. The girdle bezel facets can adjoin the table bezel facets, although it is also possible to provide additional facets therebetween. Preferably at least three, more preferably at least four and for instance six, seven or eight girdle bezel facets and table bezel facets are arranged. The number of girdle and table bezel facets and the orientation thereof is preferably optimized for a cut product with the largest possible volume, taking into account of course all the parameters which are important for the value of the stone.
According to yet another aspect, the invention is distinguished in that the ratio of the height of the cut product and the width of the girdle lies between 0.60 and 1, and more preferably between 0.75 and 0.85. Another interesting parameter is the height of the stone at the edge of the table, and the ratio of this height relative to the table width. This is because this parameter will also play a part in obtaining an optimal reflection of the lower part in the upper part.
According to yet another aspect, the invention is distinguished in that the ratio of the height of the girdle and the width of the girdle is 0.02 to 0.1. The girdle is preferably provided with a large number of facets in order to obtain a good reflection for light beams which are incident in the stone and reflected to the culet facets via the girdle.
According to the preferred embodiment of the invention, the lower part, and in particular the culet, is cut as a brilliant. Note that it is advantageous that the culet is cut as a brilliant because the culet side is reflected in the upper part.
The invention will be further elucidated on the basis of a number of non-limitative exemplary embodiments of the cut products according to the invention, with reference to the accompanying drawings.
A diamond is generally characterized by the presence of a table 1, a girdle 2 and a culet 3, as shown in
The facets located between table facet 1 and girdle 2 are referred to as bezels. In the shown embodiment there are six bezels and each bezel comprises a table bezel facet 10 which adjoins table 1 and a girdle bezel facet 11 which adjoins girdle 2. The facets located between culet 3 and girdle 2 are referred to as pavilions. In the shown embodiment there are six pavilions: six culet facets 13 adjoining the culet and six girdle pavilion facets 12 adjoining the girdle.
In the embodiment of
Finally, the girdle thickness 32 is expressed as a percentage or fraction of the overall (average) width 36 of the girdle, preferably chosen between 2% and 10%, as illustrated in
It will be apparent that the embodiments described here can be further finished (for instance by being cut as brilliants) without departing from the scope of the invention.
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- eight table bezel facets 126 and eight girdle bezel facets 125;
- eight girdle pavilion facets 114 and eight culet facets 115.
In the variant of
During the fine cutting work the star facets 123 and half facets 124 are arranged on the crown, and four additional facets 117, 118 were arranged in each case on the pavilion, although the skilled person will appreciate that there may also be more or fewer facets.
It will further be apparent to the skilled person that the girdle typically comprises a large number of small facets, which have been omitted in
Compared to the conventional proportion parameters (see Table 1) it is apparent that each of the described proportion parameters of the present invention differs therefrom. More specifically, in determined embodiments of the present invention the table is smaller and the overall height and the girdle thickness are usually greater than proposed for the conventional cuts. In possible embodiments of the present invention the culet facet angle a2 is likewise smaller than the conventional pavilion angle (typically 41 degrees) and the girdle bezel facet incline β1 is typically larger than the conventional bezel incline (typically 34 degrees).
Despite these parameters differing from the conventional values, the described preferred embodiments are nevertheless characterized by improved optical characteristics which can be objectively determined by means of commercially available software applications.
The above described values for the angles of the culet facets and the girdle bezel facets, as well as the table size, will moreover allow at least the central part of the pattern of the pavilion to be reflected in the main facets of the crown, in the girdle bezel facets and in the table, as illustrated in
Depending on the flaws and the shape of the rough stone, the culet facet incline and a girdle bezel facet incline can be optimized for the best possible play of light providing for a sufficient brilliance, in other words having optimum optical characteristics. The described cuts are moreover characterized by a larger volume, with the result that the weight expressed in carats increases, which certainly provides an economic advantage.
A possible cut of the present embodiment is designed such that the light incident in the diamond is reflected internally such that the reflection on the girdle is maximized. This principle as illustrated in
An additional effect of determined cuts of the present invention is that the optical characteristics are optimized for light exiting not only on the table side of the diamond, but also on the culet side of the diamond. In other words, in respect of the evaluation of the optical characteristics there is not just one preferred orientation of the diamond but there are multiple preferable orientation options for the diamond. This allows the diamond with a cut according to the present invention to be set in different ways while retaining the optimum optical characteristics.
Finally,
Finally,
The lower part of
The invention is not limited to the above described exemplary embodiments, and the skilled person will understand that many modifications and variants are possible without departing from the scope of the invention, this scope being defined solely by the following claims. The present invention can be applied to any type, any shape or any cut of diamond, and thus to the existing, conventional fancy cuts (pear, cushion, princess etc.) as well as new, non-conventional and/or not yet existing fancy cuts.
Claims
1.-27. (canceled)
28. Cut product manufactured from a (semi)precious stone material, more particularly from natural or synthetic diamond, comprising:
- a lower part (pavilion) with a bottom end (culet);
- an upper part (crown) with a number of facets and a top end (a point with table width 0 or a top surface (table) with a table width); and
- a girdle between lower part and upper part,
- wherein the lower part comprises a number of girdle pavilion facets which describe a first angle α1 relative to the plane of the girdle and a number of culet facets which each describe a smaller second angle α2 relative to the plane of the girdle; wherein the average second angle α2 lies between 28 and 38 degrees; and
- wherein the ratio of the table width and the width of the girdle is 0 to 0.40.
29. Cut product as claimed in claim 28, wherein the average second angle α2 lies between 28 degrees and 35 degrees, more preferably between 29 degrees and 33 degrees, and is for instance about 31 degrees.
30. Cut product as claimed in claim 28, wherein each second angle α2 lies between 25 degrees and 38 degrees, preferably between 28 degrees and 35 degrees, more preferably between 29 degrees and 33 degrees, and is for instance about 31 degrees.
31. Cut product as claimed in claim 28, wherein the ratio of the table width and the width of the girdle is 0 to 0.30.
32. Cut product as claimed in claim 28, wherein the top end is a table, wherein the ratio of the table width and the width of the girdle is 0.10 to 0.30.
33. Cut product as claimed in claim 28, wherein the top end is a point.
34. Cut product as claimed in claim 28, wherein the table width and the orientation of the facets of the upper and lower parts are optimized in order to reflect the lower part in at least a number of the facets of the upper part.
35. Cut product as claimed in claim 28, wherein the girdle pavilion facets are located above the culet facets, wherein each culet facet adjoins the bottom end and each girdle pavilion facet adjoins the girdle.
36. Cut product as claimed in claim 28, wherein at least three, and preferably at least four, and for instance six, seven or eight culet facets are arranged.
37. Cut product as claimed in claim 28, wherein at least three, and preferably at least four, and for instance six, seven or eight girdle pavilion facets are arranged.
38. Cut product as claimed in claim 28, wherein the average first angle α1 of the girdle pavilion facets lies between 15 and 80 degrees.
39. Cut product as claimed in claim 28, wherein the height of the cut product is the distance between the top end and the bottom end, wherein the ratio of the height of the cut product and the width of the girdle lies between 0.60 and 1, and more preferably between 0.75 and 0.85, and/or, wherein the ratio of the height of the girdle and the width of the girdle is 0.02 to 0.1.
40. Cut product as claimed in claim 28, wherein the lower part and/or the upper part, and in particular the culet, is cut as a brilliant.
41. Cut product as claimed in claim 28, wherein the upper part is a crown with table bezel facets and girdle bezel facets, which girdle bezel facets describe a first angle β1 relative to the plane of the girdle, and which table bezel facets describe a second, smaller angle β2 relative to the plane of the girdle, wherein preferably the average first angle β1 of the girdle bezel facets relative to the plane of the girdle lies between 35 degrees and 50 degrees, preferably between 39 degrees and 43 degrees, and is more preferably about 41 degrees, and more preferably each first angle β1 lies between 35 degrees and 50 degrees, preferably between 39 degrees and 43 degrees, and is for instance about 41 degrees.
42. Cut product as claimed in claim 41, wherein at least three girdle bezel facets and at least three table bezel facets are arranged, preferably at least four and for instance six, seven or eight.
43. Cut product as claimed in claims 41, wherein the girdle bezel facets are located below and adjoining the table bezel facets, wherein each table bezel facet adjoins the top end and each girdle bezel facet adjoins the girdle.
44. Cut product as claimed in claims 41, wherein the average second angle β2 lies between 5 and 50 degrees, preferably between 30 and 50 degrees, and for instance between 31 and 41 degrees.
45. Cut product manufactured from a (semi)precious stone material, more particularly from natural or synthetic diamond, comprising:
- a pavilion with a bottom end (culet);
- a crown with a number of facets and a top end (a point with table width 0 or a top surface (table) with a table width); and
- a girdle between lower part and upper part,
- wherein the lower part comprises a number of girdle pavilion facets which describe a first angle α1 relative to the plane of the girdle and a number of culet facets which each describe a smaller second angle α2 relative to the plane of the girdle;
- wherein a number of bezels are provided between the top end and the girdle;
- wherein the number of bezels is equal to the total of the number of girdle pavilions facets, wherein the bezels are twisted relative to the pavilions through a twist angle γ.
46. Cut product as claimed in claim 45, wherein the twist angle is optimized as a function of the dimensions of the stone in order to obtain a reflection of the lower part in the bezels and/or in the table.
47. Cut product as claimed in claim 45, wherein the angles α2 and/or α1 and/or the number of girdle and table bezel facets and the orientation thereof is/are optimized on the one hand for a cut product with the greatest possible volume and on the other for an optimum reflection of the lower part in the upper part.
Type: Application
Filed: Feb 16, 2010
Publication Date: Apr 26, 2012
Inventor: Eva van Looveren (Halle-Zoersel)
Application Number: 13/202,535