BACKGROUND The introduction of stretchable or elastomeric fabrics, such as spandex or elastane (widely branded as Lycra®) revolutionized many areas of the clothing industry. Because of its elasticity and strength (stretching up to five times its dimensions), spandex has been incorporated into a wide range of garments, especially close fitting garments. A benefit of elastomeric fabric is its ability to durably and repeatedly stretch and then return to an original shape and condition after stretching, which permits formation of garments, such as, for example, pencil skirts or tube skirts made of the elastomeric fabric that form fit to a variety of body types and sizes. However, the stretchiness of elastomeric fabrics often prohibits the accurate and effective use of patterns to help make such garments. Stretchy fabrics are difficult to cut around a pattern because the edges frequently roll. In addition, the stretchiness or elastomeric characteristics of stretchable fabric varies depending on the manufacturing of the fabric, the size of the fabric (as intended for use in forming a particular garment), and the weave or knit of the stretchable fabric (often combining spandex with another kind of fabric into a knitted textile), thereby deterring the accurate use of garment patterns. Stretchiness also commonly makes stitching the elastomeric fabric difficult and seams often distort or are stitched in a manner that is not conducive with the stretchiness of the fabric, since stitched thread may break when the fabric is stretched. Hence, a need exists for a method of forming a custom-fitted single seam stretchable fabric skirt that overcomes the aforementioned problems.
SUMMARY A described aspect provides a method of forming a custom-fitted single seam stretchable fabric skirt, the method comprising: selecting the fabric, by conducting a stretch test to determine whether the fabric stretches at least twice its dimension, so that the direction of greatest stretch will extend substantially horizontally around an eventual skirt wearer's body when worn; preparing the fabric, by straightening and squaring unfinished raw edges; trimming unfinished raw edges; trimming selvage edges; and, trimming excess fabric beyond what is needed to loosely wrap the fabric completely around the widest part of an eventual skirt wearer's body, and in a manner so as to keep an approximate two-inch lengthwise portion of extra material for seam allowances and just in case adjustments become necessary during the formation of the custom-fitted single seam stretchable fabric skirt; conducting a sew test on the excess fabric to determine fabric behavior in response to addition of fusible stay tape, sewing machine characteristics, individual machine settings, available machine feet, and notions, various needle sizes, and to establish stitch preference; physically delineating the bottom hem so that the delineation is maintainable through the remaining skirt formation steps; fitting the waist elastic in correspondence with the waist of the eventual wearer, and removably securing the waist elastic into a fitted condition; draping the prepared and bottom-hem-delineated stretchable fabric on the body of the person who will eventually wear the skirt by stuffing the unhemmed edge of fabric under the fitted and removably secured waist elastic, as worn around the waist of the eventual wearer of the skirt; while the fabric is draped around the eventual skirt wearer: making design choices for printed fabrics including which crosswise end of fabric will be the hem edge, where a hemline will be specifically when there is a border print, and marking it, as well as locating large designs or motifs for visual artistry; choosing a location of the single seam of the skirt with respect to the eventual wearer's body and orienting the draped fabric accordingly, so that the seam location is maintained throughout the fitting of the skirt, sliding the fabric up under the waist elastic worn around the eventual wearer's waist, until the physically delineated hem is at a desired height from the floor about the eventual skirt wearer's legs, fitting the single seam by pulling and stretching the fabric until the eventual wearer is satisfied with snugness and fit of the skirt and then pin-marking the single seam while the stretchable fabric is in the fitted condition so that at least two pins, as markers, align vertically above each other forming a line between them corresponding to the desired vertical location range of the single seam, fitting the skirt length by checking to make sure the hemlines on either side of the fitted and pin-marked single seam are aligned and securely located for proper desired length, wherein the hemline is parallel to the floor, and fitting the waistline so as to evenly distribute fullness of skirt around the waist elastic, while maintaining positioning for the fitted and pin-marked single seam and fitted skirt length by folding any excess stretchable fabric over the waist elastic and pin-marking by inserting at least two pins horizontally along the fabric fold over the top of the waist elastic; removing the stretchable fabric from its draped condition around the eventual wearer; transferring the pin-marked single seam into a visual seam drawn onto the stretchable fabric, by smoothing the stretchable fabric and aligning the physically delineated hem along a straight line and then drawing the visual seam along the line intersecting the at least two pins of the pin-marked single seam; trimming excess material outside of marked portions of the single seam allowing for some additional fabric to potentially facilitate final adjustments and also trimming excess material above the pin-marked waistline leaving enough material to form a waist casing for the waist elastic; placing the fitted stretchable material around the eventual wearer again; making final fitting adjustments to skirt length, single seam as located on the skirt, and waistline placement, as needed; removing any excess stretchable fabric, after final fitting adjustments, by removing the fitted waist elastic and sliding fitted skirt down off of the body of the eventual wearer; sewing the single seam, as finally adjusted and fitted and in accordance with sewing machine settings, adjustments and stitch preference as determined by the fabric characteristics and stitching behavior resulting from the sew test; sewing the bottom hem as finally adjusted and fitted and also in accordance with the fabric characteristics and stitching determinations resulting from the sew test; and, reintroducing the previously fitted waist elastic and sewing the waist elastic with a corresponding casing, as finally adjusted and custom fitted to the shape of the eventual wearer of the stretchable fabric single seam skirt.
Another described aspect provides a method of forming a custom-fitted single seam stretchable fabric skirt, the method comprising: providing fabric that stretches more than twice its original length; trimming excess fabric beyond what is needed to loosely wrap the fabric completely around the widest part of an eventual skirt wearer's body; physically delineating the bottom hem of the skirt; fitting the waist elastic in correspondence with the waist of the eventual wearer, wrapping the fabric around the lower body of the person who will eventually wear the skirt by placing the unhemmed edge of fabric under the waist elastic, as worn around the waist of the eventual wearer of the skirt; sliding the fabric up under the waist elastic worn around the eventual wearer's waist, until the physically delineated hem is at a desired height from the ground about the eventual skirt wearer's legs; pulling and stretching the fabric until the eventual wearer is satisfied with snugness and fit of the skirt and then pin-marking the single seam while the stretchable fabric is in the fitted condition so that at least two pins, as markers, align vertically above each other forming a line between them; checking to make sure the hemlines on either side of the single fitted and pin-marked single seam are aligned and securely located for proper desired length; distributing fabric around the waist elastic and folding any excess stretchable fabric over the waist elastic and pin-marking at least two pins horizontally along the fabric fold over the top of the waist elastic; removing the stretchable fabric from its wrapped condition around the eventual wearer; aligning the physically delineated hem along a straight line and then drawing a visual seam along the line intersecting the at least two pins of the pin-marked single seam; trimming excess material outside of marked portions of the single seam allowance and also above the pin-marked waistline; placing the fitted stretchable material around the eventual wearer again; making final fitting adjustments to skirt length, single seam location and waistline placement, as needed; removing the fitted waist elastic and sliding fitted skirt down off of the body of the eventual wearer; sewing the single seam, the bottom hem and the waist elastic with a corresponding casing, as finally adjusted and custom fitted to the shape of the eventual wearer of the stretchable fabric single seam skirt.
Yet another described aspect provides a stretchable fabric skirt, the skirt formed in accordance with a process comprising the steps of: providing stretchable fabric that stretches at least twice its dimension, so that the direction of greatest stretch will extend substantially horizontally around an eventual skirt wearer's body when worn; straightening and squaring unfinished raw edges; trimming unfinished raw edges, selvage edges and excess portions of the fabric beyond what is needed to loosely wrap the fabric completely around the widest part of an eventual skirt wearer's body, and in a manner so as to keep an approximate two-inch lengthwise portion of extra material for seam allowances and just in case adjustments become necessary during the formation of the custom-fitted single seam stretchable fabric skirt; conducting a sew test on the excess fabric to determine fabric behavior in response to sewing machine characteristics and to establish stitch preference; physically delineating the bottom hem of the skirt so that the delineation is maintainable through the remaining skirt process formation steps; fitting a waist elastic in correspondence with the waist of the eventual wearer, and removably securing the waist elastic into a fitted condition; draping the prepared and bottom-hem-delineated stretchable fabric on the body of the person who will eventually wear the skirt by placing the unhemmed edge of fabric under the fitted and secured waist elastic, as worn around the waist of the eventual wearer of the skirt; while the fabric is draped around the eventual skirt wearer: choosing a location of the single seam of the skirt with respect to the eventual wearer's body and orienting the draped fabric accordingly, so that the seam location is maintained throughout the fitting of the skirt, setting a desired hem location by sliding the fabric up under the waist elastic worn around the eventual wearer's waist, until the physically delineated hem is at a desired height from the ground about the eventual skirt wearer's legs, fitting the single seam by pulling and stretching the fabric until the eventual wearer is satisfied with snugness and fit of the skirt and then pin-marking the single seam while the stretchable fabric is in the fitted condition so that at least two pins, as markers, align vertically above each other forming a line between them corresponding to the desired vertical location range of the single seam, fitting the skirt length by checking to make sure the hemlines on either side of the single fitted and pin-marked single seam are aligned and securely located for proper desired length, wherein the hemline is parallel to the floor, and fitting the waistline so as to evenly distribute fullness of skirt around the waist elastic while maintaining positioning for the fitted and pin-marked single seam and fitted skirt length by folding any excess stretchable fabric over the waist elastic and pin-marking by inserting at least two pins horizontally along the fabric fold over the top of the waist elastic; removing the stretchable fabric from its draped condition around the eventual wearer; transferring the pin-marked single seam into a visual seam drawn onto the stretchable fabric, by smoothing the stretchable fabric and aligning the physically delineated hem along a straight line and then drawing the visual seam along the line intersecting the at least two pins of the pin-marked single seam; trimming excess material outside of marked portions of the single seam allowing for some additional fabric to potentially facilitate final adjustments and also trimming excess material above the pin-marked waistline leaving enough material to form a waist casing for the waist elastic; placing the fitted stretchable material around the eventual wearer again; making final fitting adjustments to skirt length, single seam location and waistline placement, as needed; removing any excess stretchable fabric, after final fitting adjustments, by removing the fitted waist elastic and sliding fitted skirt down off of the body of the eventual wearer; sewing the single seam, as finally adjusted and fitted and in accordance with sewing machine settings, adjustments and stitch preference as determined by the fabric characteristics and stitching behavior resulting from the sew test; sewing the bottom hem as finally adjusted and fitted and also in view of the fabric characteristics and stitching determinations resulting from the sew test; and, reintroducing the previously fitted waist elastic and sewing the waist elastic with a corresponding casing, as finally adjusted and custom fitted to the shape of the eventual wearer of the stretchable fabric single seam skirt.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS The described aspects are best understood from the following detailed description when read in connection with the accompanying drawing(s). Included in the drawing(s) are the following figure(s):
FIG. 1 is a side perspective view of various embodiments of a stretchable fabric single seam skirt, the embodiments worn by variously embodied wearers and formed in accordance with the methods and processes discussed herein;
FIG. 2 is a flow chart characterizing methodology for selecting, preparing and fitting stretchable fabric to form an embodiment of a custom-fitted single seam stretchable fabric skirt;
FIG. 3 is a top perspective view of actions taken during a stretch test;
FIG. 4 is a top perspective view of additional actions taken during a stretch test:
FIG. 5 is a top perspective view of further actions taken during a stretch test;
FIG. 6 is a top perspective view of still further actions taken during a stretch test;
FIG. 7 is a top perspective view of an embodiment of preparing stretchable fabric having stripes;
FIG. 8 is a top perspective view of an embodiment of preparing stretchable fabric having different sides as well as skirt top and bottom;
FIG. 9 is a top perspective view of an embodiment of preparing stretchable fabric having distorted selvage edges;
FIG. 10 is a top perspective view of an embodiment of further preparing stretchable fabric for use in forming an embodiment of a custom-fitted single seam skirt, including flipping top layer selvages to lie even with bottom layer selvages;
FIG. 11 is a top perspective view of an embodiment of preparing fabric having frayed or uneven edges;
FIG. 12 is a top perspective view of an embodiment of preparing fabric by using a ruler to trim off entire selvage edges;
FIG. 13 is a top perspective view of an embodiment of preparing fabric by marking a straight line a distance from trimmed off selvage edges:
FIG. 14 is a back side perspective view of an embodiment of preparing for fitting fabric including a determination of hip dimension and waist location;
FIG. 15 is a side view of a safety pin attached to pants designating hip and waist levels;
FIG. 16 is a top perspective view of an embodiment of preparing fabric by marking and trimming excess fabric after him dimensions have been determined;
FIG. 17 is a top view of trimmed excess fabric marked for further cutting to make sew samples;
FIG. 18 is a top perspective view of an embodiment of preparing and fitting fabric by physically delineating a hem;
FIG. 19 is a side perspective view of an embodiment of preparing and fitting fabric including a determination of waist dimension;
FIG. 20 is a side perspective view of an embodiment of preparing and fitting fabric including a fitting of an embodiment of a waist elastic;
FIG. 21 is a top view of an embodiment of a stitched waist elastic;
FIG. 22 is a top perspective view of stitching of the waist elastic of FIG. 21;
FIG. 23 is a top perspective view of further stitching of the waist elastic of FIG. 21:
FIG. 24 is a front side perspective view of an embodiment of preparing and fitting fabric including a fitting of an embodiment of a stitched waist elastic;
FIG. 25 is a side perspective view of an embodiment of preparing and fitting fabric including draping fabric around a wearer;
FIG. 26A is a side perspective view of an embodiment of preparing and fitting fabric including fabric designs or motifs located around a wearer in an unappealing position:
FIG. 26B is a side perspective view of an embodiment of preparing and fitting fabric including fabric relocated around a wearer to accommodate for fabric design or motifs in an appealing position during fitting;
FIG. 27 is a side perspective view of an embodiment of preparing and fitting fabric including fabric located around a wearer with at least two pins delineating center front fabric position at waist;
FIG. 28 is a side perspective view of an embodiment of preparing and fitting fabric including fabric located around a wearer and fitting an embodiment of a single seam with at least two pins delineating seam at hip level;
FIG. 29 is a side perspective view of an embodiment of preparing and fitting fabric including fitting an embodiment of an adjusted bottom hem;
FIG. 30 is a side perspective view of an embodiment of preparing and fitting fabric including removing fitted fabric from around a wearer;
FIG. 31 is a top perspective view of an embodiment of preparing and fitting fabric including transfer marking an embodiment of a fitted seam;
FIG. 32 is a top perspective view of an embodiment of preparing and fitting fabric including marking a trim line along an embodiment of a fitted single seam allowance;
FIG. 33 is a top perspective view of an embodiment of preparing and fitting fabric including trimming an embodiment of a fitted seam allowance:
FIG. 34 is a top perspective view of an embodiment of preparing and fitting fabric including marking seam line on the wrong side of fabric on opposite fabric edges;
FIG. 35 is a top perspective view of an embodiment of preparing and fitting fabric with motif or design positioning including trimming excess fabric off hem edge if necessary;
FIG. 36A is a flow chart characterizing methodology for conducting sew tests of an embodiment of stretchable fabric to form an embodiment of a custom-fitted single seam stretchable fabric skirt;
FIG. 36B is a flow chart characterizing methodology for sewing embodiments of a hem of an embodiment of a custom-fitted single seam stretchable fabric skirt;
FIG. 37 is a cutaway side perspective view of an embodiment of straight sew tests of test sample embodiments;
FIG. 38 is a top perspective view of the sew sample embodiments of FIG. 37;
FIG. 39 is a top perspective view of a hand stretched machine sewed straight stitch;
FIG. 40 is a top perspective view of an embodiment of sew testing fabric sample including pressing the stay tape to fabric and fusing it in preparation for stitching;
FIG. 41 is a top perspective view of an embodiment of sew testing fabric including an embodiment of stretch stitching;
FIG. 42 is a top view of an embodiment of sew testing fabric including an embodiment of three step zig zag stitching;
FIG. 43 is a top view of an embodiment of sew testing fabric including using an embodiment of an edge foot tool to effectuate the stitching of FIG. 42;
FIG. 44 is a top perspective view of an embodiment of sew testing fabric including folding the fabric for blind stretch hem stitching;
FIG. 45 is a top perspective view of an embodiment of sew testing fabric including an embodiment stitching the fabric of FIG. 44;
FIG. 46 is a bottom perspective view of the embodiment the stitched fabric of FIG. 45;
FIG. 47 is a top perspective view of another embodiment of sew testing fabric including pressing stay tape thereby fusing stay tape to fabric in preparation for stitching;
FIG. 48 is a top perspective view of an embodiment of sew testing fabric including pressing a second row of stay tape in preparation for stitching;
FIG. 49 is a top perspective view of an embodiment of sew testing fabric including an embodiment of twin stretch needle top stitching;
FIG. 50 is an embodiment of a twin stretch needle;
FIG. 51 is a perspective view of another embodiment of sew testing fabric including another embodiment of stitching:
FIG. 52 is a perspective view of another embodiment of sew testing fabric including still another embodiment of hand catch stitching;
FIG. 53 is a top perspective view of an embodiment of sew testing fabric including using an embodiment of a serger;
FIG. 54 is a top perspective view of an embodiment of sew testing fabric including using an embodiment of a serger to effectuate an embodiment of cover stretch stitching;
FIG. 55 is a top perspective view of an embodiment of sew testing fabric including using an embodiment of a serger to effectuate another embodiment of stitching:
FIG. 56 is a top perspective view of an embodiment of sew testing fabric including using an embodiment of a serger to effectuate another embodiment of four thread overlock stitching of a seam;
FIG. 57 is a flow chart characterizing methodology for draping stretchable fabric around a wearer to fit and then form an embodiment of a custom-fitted single seam stretchable fabric skirt;
FIG. 58 is a side perspective view of various stages of an embodiment of preparing and fitting fabric including fitting an embodiment of skirt length, as fabric is draped around a wearer;
FIG. 59 is a side perspective view of various stages of an embodiment of preparing and fitting fabric including fitting an embodiment of a bottom hem, single seam position, and an embodiment of a waist line, as fabric is draped around a wearer;
FIG. 60 is a flow chart characterizing methodology for transferring marks of a single seam and a waistline to form an embodiment of a custom-fitted single seam stretchable fabric skirt;
FIG. 61 is a top perspective view of an embodiment of preparing and fitting fabric including an embodiment of transferring pin-marks by drawing marks to facilitate accurate marking of scamline, determining of seam allowance edge, and drawing seam marks to facilitate accurate trimming of excess fabric from seam allowance;
FIG. 62 is a top perspective view of an embodiment of preparing and fitting fabric including an embodiment of drawing 2″ seam line on the wrong side of the fabric;
FIG. 63 is a top perspective view of an embodiment of preparing and fitting fabric including an embodiment of drawing waistline marks and securing a marked single seam;
FIG. 64 is a top perspective view of an embodiment of preparing and fitting fabric including an embodiment of drawing waist casing fold line marks while comparing waist pin marks on the top layer to pin marks on the bottom layer, where there is little or no difference, to facilitate accurate marking of waist casing fold line;
FIG. 65 is a top perspective view of an embodiment of preparing and fitting fabric including an embodiment of drawing waist casing fold line marks while comparing waist pin marks on the top layer to pin marks on the bottom layer, where there is considerable difference, to facilitate accurate marking of waist casing fold line:
FIG. 66 is a top perspective view of an embodiment of preparing and fitting fabric including another embodiment of drawing waist casing marks to facilitate accurate trimming of excess fabric;
FIG. 67 is a top perspective view of an embodiment of preparing and fitting fabric including an embodiment of trimming off excess fabric along waist casing marks;
FIG. 68 is a top perspective view of the trimmed fabric above waistline that can be used to make a waistline template;
FIG. 69 is a top perspective view of an embodiment of preparing and fitting fabric including another embodiment of drawing waist casing marks to facilitate accurate trimming of excess fabric;
FIG. 70 is a top perspective view of an embodiment of preparing and fitting fabric including another embodiment trimming off excess fabric along waist casing marks:
FIG. 71 is a top perspective view of another embodiment of the trimmed fabric above a waistline that can be used to make a waistline template;
FIG. 72 is a flow chart characterizing methodology for final fitting an embodiment of a custom-fitted single seam stretchable fabric skirt;
FIG. 73 is a side perspective view of an embodiment of preparing and fitting fabric including an embodiment final fitting, for final decision about skirt length, tightness of fit, waist comfort and/or slit or pleat height if either is desired;
FIG. 74 is a top perspective view of an embodiment of preparing and fitting fabric including marking an embodiment of a single seam after final fitting;
FIG. 75A is a top perspective view of an embodiment of preparing and fitting fabric including trimming excess seam fabric for no opinion option or slit after final fitting;
FIG. 75B is a top perspective view of an embodiment of preparing and fitting fabric including trimming excess seam fabric for box or kick pleat option after final fitting;
FIG. 76A is a top perspective view of an embodiment of preparing and fitting fabric including stitched seam fabric for slit option after final fitting;
FIG. 76B is a top perspective view of an embodiment of preparing and fitting fabric including stitched seam fabric for box or kick pleat options after final fitting;
FIG. 77 is a top perspective view of an embodiment of preparing and fitting fabric including stitching seam fabric after final fitting;
FIG. 78 is a flow chart characterizing methodology for forming an embodiment of a slit option for an embodiment of a custom-fitted single seam stretchable fabric skirt;
FIG. 79 is a flow chart characterizing methodology for forming another embodiment of a slit for an embodiment of a custom-fitted single seam stretchable fabric skirt;
FIG. 80A is a top view of a portion of an embodiment of fabric prepared and fitted for the forming of an embodiment of applying stay tape to an embodiment of a single seam skirt;
FIG. 80B is a top view of a portion of an embodiment of fabric prepared and fitted for the forming of an embodiment of slit extension folds of an embodiment of a single seam skirt;
FIG. 81A is a top view of a portion of an embodiment of fabric prepared and fitted for the forming of an embodiment of a slit having a reinforcement triangle of an embodiment of a single seam skirt;
FIG. 81B is a top view of an embodiment of a stretch stitch top stitched slit of an embodiment of a single seam skirt;
FIG. 81C is a top view of an embodiment of a hand catch stitch hemmed slit of an embodiment of a single seam skirt;
FIG. 82 is a top view of a portion of another embodiment of fabric prepared and fitted for the forming of another embodiment of twin stretch needle top stitch hemmed slit of an embodiment of a single seam skirt;
FIG. 83 is a top view of another embodiment of a twin stretched needle top stitched slit of an embodiment of a single seam skirt;
FIG. 84 is a flow chart characterizing methodology for forming an embodiment of a box pleat of an embodiment of a custom-fitted single seam stretchable fabric skirt;
FIG. 85 is a top view of a portion of an embodiment of a box pleat being formed as part of a custom-fitted single seam stretchable fabric skirt;
FIG. 86 is a top view of another portion of an embodiment of a box pleat being formed as part of a custom-fitted single seam stretchable fabric skirt:
FIG. 87 is a top view of an embodiment of a box pleat being formed as part of a custom-fitted single seam stretchable fabric skirt;
FIG. 88 is a top view of still another portion of an embodiment of a box pleat being formed as part of a custom-fitted single seam stretchable fabric skirt:
FIG. 89A is a top view of an embodiment of a box pleat being formed as part of a custom-fitted single seam stretchable fabric skirt;
FIG. 89B is a top view of another portion of an embodiment of fabric prepared and fitted for the forming of an embodiment of a box pleat of an embodiment of a single seam stretchable fabric skirt;
FIG. 89C is a top view of yet another portion of an embodiment of fabric prepared and fitted for the forming of an embodiment of a box pleat of an embodiment of a single seam stretchable fabric skirt;
FIG. 90 is a flow chart characterizing methodology for forming another embodiment of a kick pleat of an embodiment of a custom-fitted single seam stretchable fabric skirt;
FIG. 91 is a top view of a portion of another embodiment of fabric prepared and fitted for the forming of another embodiment of a kick pleat of an embodiment of a custom-fitted single seam stretchable fabric skirt;
FIG. 92 is a top view of another portion of another embodiment of fabric prepared and fitted for the forming of another embodiment of a kick pleat of an embodiment of a custom-fitted single seam stretchable fabric skirt;
FIG. 93A is a top view of still another portion of an embodiment of a kick pleat being formed as part of a custom-fitted single seam stretchable fabric skirt;
FIG. 93B is a top view of still another portion of an embodiment of a kick pleat being formed as part of a custom-fitted single seam stretchable fabric skirt;
FIG. 94A is a top view of an embodiment of a kick pleat being formed as part of a custom-fitted single seam stretchable fabric skirt;
FIG. 94B is a top view of yet another portion of an embodiment of a kick pleat being formed as part of a custom-fitted single seam stretchable fabric skirt;
FIG. 95 is a top view of still another portion of an embodiment of a kick pleat being formed as part of a custom-fitted single seam stretchable fabric skirt;
FIG. 96 is a flow chart characterizing methodology for forming an embodiment of an elastic waist and an embodiment of a waist template of an embodiment of a custom-fitted single seam stretchable fabric skirt;
FIG. 97 is a top perspective view of an embodiment of preparing and fitting fabric including marking a waistline;
FIG. 98 is a top perspective view of an embodiment of preparing and fitting fabric including an embodiment of a waistline casing;
FIG. 99 is a top perspective view of an embodiment of preparing and fitting fabric including stitching an embodiment of a waistline;
FIG. 100 is a top view of an embodiment of a waistline trim portion being utilized to mark and form an embodiment of a waistline template;
FIG. 101 is a top view of an embodiment of a waistline trim portion being utilized to trim and form an embodiment of a waistline template:
FIG. 102 is a top view of another embodiment of a waistline trim portion being utilized to mark and form an embodiment of a waistline template;
FIG. 103 is a tope view of another embodiment of a waistline trim portions being utilized to trim and form an embodiment of a waistline template;
FIG. 104 depicts a flowchart characterizing methodology form forming an embodiment of a lining of an embodiment of a custom-fitted single seam stretchable fabric skirt;
FIG. 105 is a top view of an embodiment of a lining being formed to operate with an embodiment of a custom-fitted single seam stretchable skirt;
FIG. 106 is a top view of an embodiment of a lining being further formed to operate with an embodiment of a custom-fitted single seam stretchable fabric skirt;
FIG. 107 is a top view of an embodiment of a lining being still further formed to operate with an embodiment of a custom-fitted single seam stretchable fabric skirt;
FIG. 108 is a top perspective view of an embodiment of stitching of a lining being formed to operate with an embodiment of a custom-fitted single seam stretchable fabric skirt;
FIG. 109 is a top view of an embodiment of a lining being still further formed to operate with an embodiment of a custom-fitted single seam stretchable fabric skirt:
FIG. 110 is a top perspective view of an embodiment of a lining being still further formed to operate with an embodiment of a custom-fitted single seam stretchable fabric skirt; and
FIG. 111 is a top view of an embodiment of a slit in a lining operational with an embodiment of a custom-fitted single seam stretchable fabric skirt.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION While this disclosure contains many specific details, it should be understood that various changes and modifications may be made without departing from the scope of the technology herein described and the appended claim(s). The scope of the technology shall in no way be construed as being limited to the number of constituting components, the corresponding relationship, if any, of constituting components, the materials thereof, the shapes thereof, the relative arrangement thereof, the temperature employed, the order of combination of constituents thereof, etc., and are disclosed simply as examples. The depictions and schemes shown herein are intended for illustrative purposes and shall in no way be construed as being limiting in the number of constituting components, connectivity, methodological steps, the materials thereof, the shapes thereof, the relative arrangement thereof, the order of system interactions thereof, etc., and are disclosed simply as an aid for understanding. The features and advantages of the described embodiments are illustrated in detail in the accompanying drawing(s), wherein like reference numerals refer to like elements throughout the drawing(s). As a preface to the detailed description, it should be noted that, as used in this specification and the appended claim(s), the singular forms “a”, “an” and “the” include plural referents, unless the context clearly dictates otherwise.
With reference to the drawing(s), FIG. 1 depicts a side perspective view of various embodiments of a stretchable fabric single seam skirt 100, the embodiments worn by variously embodied wearers 50 and formed in accordance with the methods and processes discussed herein. As depicted, a stretchable fabric single seam skirt embodiment 100a, may including a side seam location 110a, with a box pleat 130a extending from a mini length skirt 120a (or skirt length with a hem above the knees) as worn by a slender young woman 50a. In addition, a stretchable fabric single seam skirt embodiment 100b, may including a back center seam location 110b, with a kick pleat 130b extending from a midi length skirt 120b (or skirt length with hem located between the knees and the ankles around the calves) as worn by a middle-aged and larger woman 50b. Moreover, a stretchable fabric single seam skirt embodiment 100c, may including a front center seam location 110c, with a slit 130c extending from a maxi length skirt 120c (or skirt length with hem located down approximately around the ankles) as worn by a young girl 50c. Those in the art may appreciate that embodiments of a stretchable fabric single seam skirt may be custom-fitted to many different body types with many different styles, such as length and placement of seam, slit, waistline and optional kick pleat or box pleat.
Stretchable knit fabrics (with 2-way and/or 4-way stretch) commonly utilize elastomeric material for return memory, such as, for example, material regularly used to make bathing suits. Stretchable fabric contents of Nylon 95%/Spandex 5%; Nylon 80%/Spandex20%; Polyester 95%/Lycra 5%; Polyester 80%/Lycra 20%, or other like knit material combination ranges are preferable. However, also usable are other fabric content ratios and other fabrics such as Cotton Knit as long as there is some elastomeric material included. Often knitted into stretchable fabrics is a manmade elastic polyurethane fiber called Spandex (well-known brand name Lycra).
When forming embodiments of a stretchable fabric single seam skirt 100, for modesty sake since some light colored fabrics may be revealing, so with fabric thinness consideration, a wearer 50 may contemplate the need for a lining or other knit with comparable stretch. To line skirt 100, a sewist of ordinary skill in the art may make two skirts 100 (thereby approximately doubling the amount of fabric purchased) and sewing them together in the waistline casing. As an alternative to a lining, a slip would also work.
As depicted in FIG. 2, methodology for preparing and fitting stretchable fabric to form an embodiment of a single seam skirt 100 is presented in the form of a flow chart 1000 to help ensure proper skirt 100 formation. To determine the width of fabric that may be needed to make a skirt embodiment 100, one may utilize a tape measure, or other measuring implement, and measure around the fullest part of the hips of an eventual skirt 100 wearer 50. To provide some leeway fabric to work with, it may be preferable to include an extra 4 inches or so of fabric. Most stretch knits available for purchase through retail distribution outlets are 54″-60″ or approximately 152 cm wide. Widths are typically measured from one selvage (factory finished edge) across to another selvage. With respect to embodiments of a custom fitted stretchable fabric single seam skirt 100, an eventual wearer's 50 hips should preferably measure less than 56″ in diameter, however, skirts may be fashioned from less typical stock knit fabric sizes for wearers having larger hips.
It is important to make sure fabric chosen to make a skirt 100 has characteristics of stretchiness that are operable and commensurate with the formation of the skirt 100. Hence it may be useful to perform a stretch test. As depicted in FIG. 3, a stretch tester can utilize a stretch guide 20 to assess fabric 10 stretchiness. For instance, the stretch tester can take one selvage of the fabric 10 and fold it over toward left for more than 4″ inches. Then, as in FIG. 4, with the left hand the stretch tester can pinch and hold fabric 10 layers at “A” and with the right hand pinch and stretch the fabric 10 toward the corner of the grid of the stretch guide 20. If the fabric stretches to “C” or “D” or beyond then the stretchable characteristics of the fabric 10 in that direction are acceptable. Moreover, in a similar manner as shown in FIG. 5, a stretch tester can, with the left hand, firmly hold the fabric 10 at “B” on the stretch guide 20 and then, with the right hand as depicted in FIG. 6, pinch and stretch the fabric 10 in a direction away from “B.” Likewise, therefore, if the fabric stretches to “F” or “G” or beyond then the stretchable characteristics of the fabric 10 in that direction are acceptable.
When considering how much fabric 10 may be needed to be purchased, or otherwise procured, to form a custom-fitted single seam stretchable fabric skirt 100, it is important to consider how long the eventual wearer 50 desires the skirt to be. For example, does the eventual wearer 50 want to form a mini-length skirt 100a, as worn by wearer 50a shown in FIG. 1, or would an eventual wearer 50 want to form a midi-length skirt 100b or a maxi-length skirt 100c, as respectively worn by wearers 50b and 50c and also shown in FIG. 1. Depending on the length of the desired skirt 100, it may be helpful to hold a tape measure at the waist of an eventual wearer 50 and drop it down to the floor and then determine the distance from the waist to the desired skirt length (maxi, midi, mini, etc.). Then it may be prudent to add an additional 6-7 inches (that may be used for hem and waistline casing) to the measured skirt length, in order to determine an appropriate length of fabric 10 to be purchased.
Thread choice may include any operable material type, although 100% polyester thread weight #50 often works well. For serger stitching, lighter weight thread, such as #80 and/or #60 may be helpful, since 3-4 threads at one time are sewn onto the skirt 100 fabric 10. Furthermore, thread color can be chosen to match the color of the fabric 10 used to form a skirt 100 and/or can be a neutral color (either light or dark) coordinating with the fabric 10.
Some embodiments of a stretchable fabric skirt 100 include elastic for use in helping to keep the skirt 100 in place around a wearer's 50 waistline. Hence, it may be necessary to purchase a lengthwise portion of elastic to include in the formation of a skirt 100. Elastic is ordinarily available in rolls that can be cut to length as needed. Hence, the waistline of an eventual wearer 50 may be measured to determine a base length. Then and additional 3-4 inches may be added for ease in working with the material. The width of the elastic may be any operable dimension, although widths ranging between ½ inch to 2 inches are preferable for use in forming a skirt 100.
Various tools may be helpful to utilize during the process of forming a custom-fitted single seam stretchable fabric skirt 100. For example, common sewing implements, such as a measuring tape, shears, scissors, fasteners (safety pins, straight pins, paperclips, clothes-hanger clips, Wonder Clips, etc.), rubber bands, pin cushions, thimbles, needles, etc., may be used in the process of forming a skirt 100. In addition, a sewing machine, a serger, an iron and/or other tools may be utilized. Furthermore, fusible knit stabilizer may be useful, since it stretches with fabric and may be used to help sew hems and optional slit, box pleat, or kick pleat, by providing support to edges of fabric 10 for ease in handling and sewing. While 1 yard of fusible knit stabilizer (often 20″ wide), may be procured and cut into 1¼″ strips, it may be preferable to acquire a roll of 1¼″ fusible knit stay tape already cut to required width. Moreover, a new machine needle, such as a 75 stretch needle, may be useful for properly sewing stretchy knit fabrics 10, without creating holes, pulls or skipped stitches. A ballpoint needle may also be used, since such a needle can readily slip between the knit fibers rather than poking holes or runs in the fabric 10 as a sharp needle may be more prone to do. However, a stretch needle may be more preferable in providing consistent stitching and in preventing skipped stitches than a ballpoint needle when used to sew on stretchable fabric 10. Those in the art may also appreciate that, for sewing a twin stretch top stitch, a new twin stretch needle, such as of the size 75/2.5 mm or 75/4 mm, (the second number being the distance between the needles) for example, may be needed. New needles are preferred since they won't have any imperfections like a burr (metal bump) that may be caused from hitting pins or a metal stitch plate during earlier sewing. It may be helpful to check for burrs by running index finger and thumb nails down the pointed end of needle and if a burr or tiny bump is felt it is suggested to discard the needle, since it may ruin the stretchable fabric 10.
Those of ordinary skill in the art may find that some tools normally associated with quilting may be helpful in the formation of a custom-fitted single seam stretchable fabric skirt 100. Such quilting tools may be effective in managing fabric having edges that may be prone to rolling or bunching. Squaring stretchy fabric along grid lines and lining a ruler along the edges may make for greater ease and accuracy in cutting. For instance, effective quilting tools may include a rotary cutter, a cutting mat (possibly having grid lines) and rulers, such as wooden rulers or clear plastic rulers. This may be the closest a home sewist, for example, can get to replicating the process of cutting in a factory, where a knife is expeditiously used to cut around a stack of fabric with a motorized cutter. Moreover, long quilting pins may be useful for pinning and securing the stretchable fabric 10, such as for pinning on the diagonal. Other tools and notions may include: water soluble marker(s) or tailor's chalk for marking seam and hemlines, plus painter's tape to mark on fabric or stitch plate, or edge quilt/guide set to desired width from fabric edge while stitching, tape measure, sewing gauge, a fine hand sewing needle, and/or beeswax or other thread conditioner that may help prevent the thread from kinking or knotting. Those in the art may find that forming a skirt 100 may be facilitated through use of several safety pins to affix seams together for fitting, rather than straight pins that may more easily slip out of the stretch fabric 10, or water soluble dots which may disappear in humid weather, or basting which may be more time consuming or using with a rotary cutter for smooth edges rather than shears which typically require fabric to be lifted off a cutting table causing it to potentially shift slightly while being cut.
Once the desired stretchable fabric 10 is procured and tested for proper stretchability, it needs to be further prepared for use in forming a custom-fitted single seam stretchable fabric skirt 100. A prerequisite to cutting is usually to prewash and dry fabric according to manufacturer's recommendation to pre-shrink. As those in the art appreciate, fabric often contains patterns and/or designs that may be woven, knitted, embroidered, or printed, etc., into and/or onto the material. It may be necessary to prepare the fabric in view of the designs of and/or upon the fabric. For example, FIG. 7 depicts a top perspective view of an embodiment of preparing stretchable fabric 10 having stripes 13. In such an instance, it may be effective to trim unfinished edges by cutting the fabric 10, as placed in a single layer upon a cutting mat or other substantially solid surface, and trimming the edge(s) along a parallel direction of the stripe(s) 13. The trimming may be facilitated through use of a cutting implement such as a rotary cutter 30. The trimmed pieces 12 may be saved for use in future sew tests. To determine which crosswise edge will be designated as the hem edge of the skirt, the fabric may be held up in front of a mirror to see which way is more aesthetically pleasing. As depicted in FIG. 8, a hem edge can be denoted by marking it with a strip of blue painter's tape 37, although the hem may be marked in any workable manner. The fabric 10 may have a good side 10a (in other words a side that will be displayed or seen when the fabric 10 is formed into a skirt 100 and worn by an eventual wearer 50) and a bad side 10b (in other words a side that may not be displayed nor seen when the fabric 10 is formed into a skirt 100 and worn by an eventual wearer 50). To prepare fabric 10 for trimming, it may be helpful to fold the fabric with the selvage edges together so that the good side 10a abuts itself and the bad side 10b is faced outward so markings can be more readily restricted to the bad side 10b. When trimming a selvage edge of the fabric 10, as depicted in FIG. 9, if selvages roll or bunch it may be beneficial to make small clips or cuts 47 along the selvage edge about every V inch or so, as this may help keep the fabric 10 lying flat. In addition, when maneuvering, or otherwise moving and handling non-striped fabric 10 for trimming, as shown in FIG. 10, it may be beneficial to hold onto the selvage of an upper layer of fabric 10, as folded, and then gently flipping, or lifting while pulling, the fabric until it lays down flat. If necessary, the fabric 10 can be hand-patted to eliminate wrinkles. Once flat, as shown in FIG. 11, each raw edge of fabric 10 may be trimmed along rulers, such as clear plastic rulers 41a and 41b, placed in a straight line as the fabric 10 lies on a cutting mat, by using the blade of a rotary cutter 30. It may be preferable to trim by moving the rotary cutter 30 crossgrain from the fold of the fabric 10 to the selvages.
When trimming selvage edges, as shown in FIG. 12, preferably without moving the fabric 10 following the trimming of the raw edges of the fabric 10, rulers, such as clear plastic rulers 41a, 41b, and 41c etc., may be positioned in a straight line along the selvage edge(s), about one inch from the edge(s), so all of the selvage will be gone following trimming. Again, a rotary cutter 30 may be moved along the rulers to trim the selvage edges in the form of a straight edge. Prior to cutting, good, check may include looking under top fabric 10 layer to make sure all selvage has been included for trimming. In addition, when the fabric 10 has been trimmed, a mark may be applied to the fabric to denote seam line 11. As shown in FIG. 13, a straight edge, such as a ruler 41b, may be used in conjunction with an erasable marker, to draw a straight line 11 about 2 inches in from the edge for the entire length of fabric 10, along where selvage edges were trimmed off. It may be beneficial to draw the marking of the seam line 11 on the wrong side 10b of the fabric 10. This straight line marking 11 may delineate the seam allowance from seam line to cut edge, thereby providing further fitting of the single seam of the custom-fitted skirt 100.
With continued reference to the drawings, FIG. 14 depicts a side perspective view of an embodiment of preparing and fitting fabric including a determination of hip dimension. Such a determination may facilitate the trimming of excess, or unneeded fabric width during the process of forming a custom-fitted single seam stretchable fabric skirt 100. An eventual wearer 50 of the skirt 100 may stand with legs together and wearing a tight fitting garment 6, such as close fitting leggings, so that a tape measure 71 may be snuggly wrapped around the widest part of the hips 53 or widest part of the eventual wearer's body below the waist. To test if this is the widest part of the hips, one could hold both parts of the measuring tape 71 together and slide down off the eventual wearer's 50 body. If the tape measure 71 gets stuck, the measured dimension may be adjusted until the tape 71 can slide all the way up and/or down the eventual wearer's 50 body, while the measuring tape 71 is held firmly together. The tape measure 71 may be returned to with widest hip level 53, and then the location can be marked on a center back seam line at the waist and the widest part of the hip of the tight-fitting garment 6, with a safety pin 15, (as further shown in FIG. 15). It is notable that certain aspects of fabric preparation are more applicable to fabrics having large visual designs or motifs. For such fabrics having large designs or motifs, it may be effective to wait and not trim edges until design positioning is complete.
Once the widest hip level is determined and marked, the stretchable skirt fabric 10 can be spread out as a single layer, preferably with the wrong side up, for trimming of excess fabric extending beyond the widest determined hip width. On the opposite side of the fabric 10 from the seam line, rulers, such as ruler 41a, may be lined up to form a straight line with a cutting mat grid or other straight line. If, during fabric preparation, straight rulers are not lined up with grid lines, it is possible to measure, in an amount to be trimmed, and an erasable marker may be used to draw a straight line along the rulers. Then a cutting device, such as a rotary cutter 30 may be used to cut the excess fabric 12. As shown in FIG. 17, portions of the trimmed excess fabric may be delineated or marked 12m for use as sew test samples.
The hem may be physically delineated, such as by pinning it into a marked place or otherwise physically marking it. As depicted in FIG. 18, the blue painter's tape, or any other marking 37 that may have been used to initially mark the hem edge, may be located. At a marked distance from the edge of the fabric 10 a fold 16 may be effectuated and then physically delineated, such as by being pinned and marked into place. The hem may be folded up and measured with a 1¼ inch dimension, as measured possibly by a seam gauge, or any other operable measuring implement. If straight pins are utilized to mark the hem, then it is preferable to orient the pins so they point downward toward the bottom of the him to prevent any of those wearing or working with the fabric 10 from getting pricked when moving the fabric 10 to adjust fit. The hem can be readjusted later, if needed or desired, to accommodate design considerations or small length changes.
As previously mentioned, some embodiments of a stretchable fabric skirt 100 include elastic for use in helping to keep the skirt 100 in place around a wearer's 50 waistline. Thus, it may be necessary to prepare, fit and form an elastic waistline band, such as elastic 80 depicted in FIG. 19. To fit the elastic 80, the band of elastic may be wrapped around an eventual wearer 50, so that there is an overlap. To help in determining waist location, the eventual wearer 50 may bend to the side; the waist is located at the bend. Using a safety pin 15, or other securing implement, affix the overlapped pieces of the elastic 80 together, so that to the eventual wearer 50 it feels comfortable; not too tight, but tight enough to help hold a skirt in place. Any excess elastic material can be trimmed and removed. As depicted in FIG. 20, the elastic 80 can then be taken off the eventual wearer's body and a straight pin 76 can be inserted approximately ½ inch from the cut edge of the elastic material through both overlapping layers. The safety pin 15 can then be removed and from the underside (or side facing the eventual wearer's 50 body) a cut can be made approximately ½ inch away from the straight pin, so that the other end of the elastic material can be freed. In this condition, the ends of the waist elastic 80 will be overlapped approximately 1 inch. To make the elastic even more securely fitted and formed, with a straight stitch, as depicted in FIG. 21 an elastic joining stitch 85 may be sewn in a square pattern (see the portion of square pattern 85a shown in FIG. 22) around the generally square shape of the overlapping elastic material and diagonal stitching (see the diagonal stitching 85ab shown in FIG. 23) may be added to further strengthen the secured joining of the ends of the elastic 80. The sewing of the elastic joining stitch 85 may be repeated twice, if further securing capability of the ends of the elastic 80 is desired and/or needed. Once stitched, the elastic 80 can again be worn securely on the waistline of the eventual wearer 50, so that the joining stitch 85 rests in the center of the front of the eventual wearer 50, above the marking pin 15 on the close fitting garment 6 identifying the center front location of an eventual wearer 50 (as depicted in FIG. 24).
The fabric preparation methodology pertaining to FIGS. 25-30 pertains most accurately to fabrics having large designs or motifs that can be positioned favorably prior to cutting off excess width fabric. In process decisions about slits, box or kick pleats are made more effectively at the time of final cutting. Seam position can be determined as set forth in FIG. 25, as described further below. Fabrics with no large designs or motifs can be positioned and trimmed according to hip measurements, as depicted, inter alia, in FIGS. 16 and 17. It may be desirable, while preparing and fitting the fabric 10 for custom-fitted formation of a skirt 100 embodiment, to determine where to include a single seam, such as in the front center (in the front of the skirt between an eventual wearer's legs, much like seam 110c shown in FIG. 1), on the side (like the side seam 110a also depicted in FIG. 1), or in the center of the back of the skirt (like the back seam 110b depicted in FIG. 1). It may be helpful to conduct at least some of the fitting of the skirt in front of a mirror 68, since doing so may facilitate the viewing of the skirt from multiple and different angles. Moreover, a mirror 68 may allow the eventual wearer 50, for which the skirt 100 is being custom-fitted, to provide insight, preferences, feedback and/or instructions that may assist in the fitting process. While the single seam 110 is located for fitting, the skirt fabric 10 may also be prepared and moved so that the location of any predominate designs of/on the skirt fabric 10 may be positioned according to customized preference, as shown in FIGS. 26A and 26B. For example, it may be preferable to move designs, such as large floral designs 91 and 92 of/on the fabric 10, from positions that are front and center on the skirt 100 when the fabric 10 is draped around an eventual wearer 50 (as in FIG. 26A), to positions that are located more on the side of the skirt 100 when the fabric is draped around the eventual wearer 50 (as in FIG. 26B). Once the fabric 10 is moved to a desired location, as shown in FIG. 27, two safety pins 15 may be pinned vertically to the fabric below the waistline, on top of safety pin located on center front seam of pants 6, thereby marking the center front of the skirt 100. Moreover, once the location of the single seam 110 is chosen, that location may be maintained throughout the fitting of the skirt 100.
With continued reference to the drawings, FIG. 28 depicts a side perspective view of an embodiment of preparing and fitting fabric including fabric 10 located around an eventual wearer 50 and fitting an embodiment of a single seam 110. Once the fabric 10 is prepared such that the single seam 110 is located in a desired position with respect to the custom-fit of the fabric as draped on the eventual wearer 50 (and/or any predominate designs, such as floral designs 91 and 92, are also all located in desired positions with respect to custom-fit of the fabric as draped on the eventual wearer 50), the fabric 10 may be slid up under the waist elastic 80 worn around the eventual wearer's 50 waist, until the physically delineated hem 120 is at a desired height from the floor about the eventual skirt wearer's 50 legs. Both sides of the fabric 10 corresponding to hems may then be aligned together and pinned. Further fitting of the single seam of the skirt 100 may be effectuated by pulling and stretching the fabric 10 until the eventual wearer 50 is satisfied with the snugness and fit of the skirt. It may be preferable to have a fitting partner 59 grasp both sides of the fabric 10 at hip level and then pull the fabric as tightly as the eventual wearer 50 deems comfortable, with respect to desired form and function of the custom-fitted single seam stretchable fabric skirt 100. At this point, it may be unlikely that both seam allowances will be even, but it is preferable to have the seam allowances be at least 1-2 inches wide. With wide-enough seam allowances and the fabric 10 moved and fitted to the desired location, the single seam 110 may be pin-marked, while the stretchable fabric 10 is in the fitted condition, so that at least two pins, such as safety pins 15, align vertically above each other forming a line between them corresponding to the desired vertical location range of the single seam 110. It is preferable for the at least two pins, such as safety pins 15, to be vertically pinned to mark the single seam 110 in an area where the hips of the eventual wearer 50 are widest.
Additional fitting of the skirt 100, as further depicted in FIG. 29, may including fitting the skirt length. If the length needs to be adjusted (to change the length from a maxi to a midi or from a midi to a mini, etc.), now that designs are in a desired location, the fabric can be unpinned, by removing a few pins 76, and then folded up 16 to the adjusted length. Once fabric has been removed from the wearer, the entire hem can be measured, re-pinned to a new desired length and physically delineated in a marked condition. Once the stretchable fabric's 10 designs have been favorably positioned, length adjusted and hips have been fitted, it can be removed from its draped condition around the eventual wearer 50, by pulling it back out from under the waist elastic 80, as depicted in FIG. 30.
Still referring to the drawings, with the fabric 10 removed from the eventual wearer 50, the stretchable fabric 10 may be folded together (preferably good side 10a out) along the at least two pins marking the center front of the skirt 100 and hand patted to smooth the fabric 10. If, when folded, one fold is wider than the other, it is preferable to have the wider layer be the lower layer that may be placed directly on a cutting mat. The edges of fabric 10 pertaining to the physically delineated hem may be aligned evenly along a straight line, such as a horizontal mat line. Once aligned, it may be helpful to measure from the edge of the top layer of stretchable fabric 10 to the edge of the lower or bottom layer of stretchable fabric 10, as positioned in a folded and aligned condition. Such measurement may facilitate positioning of the top and bottom layers of the folded fabric 10 the same distance apart all along the length of the skirt, so that both layers may line up parallel to each other. The seam, as pin-marked by pins, such as safety pins 15, may be transferred into visual marks drawn onto the stretchable fabric 10, by a drawing implement, such as an erasable marker 61. To assist in the transfer of marks, as shown further in FIG. 32, the visual seam can be marked and drawn along the line intersecting the at least two former pin marks. Then a cutting line may be denoted by utilizing measuring devices, such as ruler 41a, to measure out a mark 2″ from the visually marked seam line. Another measuring device, such as ruler 41b, may be sued to create markings corresponding to a parallel line approximately 2 inches from the visually marked seam line for seam allowance. Once the cutting line is denoted, a straight edge device, such as a rule, may be lined up along designated marks and a cutting tool, such as a rotary cutter 30, may be used to cut along the line through both the top layer and the bottom layer of the folded stretchable fabric 10, thereby trimming excess material outside of marked portions of the single seam allowance providing for some additional fabric to potentially facilitate final adjustment, as depicted in FIG. 33. The pins, such as safety pins 15, marking the center front of the skirt may stay in until after all the markings are transferred and even until the fabric 10 is draped again around the eventual wearer 50 for final fitting.
It may be helpful to visually draw a seam line on the wrong side 10b of the fabric 10. As depicted in FIG. 34, one folded layer of the fabric 10 can be folded back. Then, it may be helpful to utilize a straight edge device to draw a seam line with a drawing implement, such as an erasable marker 61, approximately two inches from the newly cut and trimmed edges of fabric 10. Additionally, if the physically delineated hem 120 was adjusted, while positioning motifs or designs, there may be a need to trim other excess material. As depicted in FIG. 35, the adjusted hem may be marked by a straight edge and the excess material may be trimmed through use of a cutting tool, such as a rotary cutter 30. Any excess material trimmed from the fabric 10, as depicted in FIG. 33 and FIG. 35, may be utilized for sew test samples cut as depicted in FIG. 17. At this point, the 1 and ¼ ′ hem may be remeasured and pinned up again, as before, at the new skirt length.
With continued reference to the drawings, FIG. 36 depicts a flow chart 2000 characterizing methodology for conducting sew tests of an embodiment of stretchable fabric 10 to form an embodiment of a custom-fitted single seam stretchable fabric skirt 100. Computerized sewing machines often have settings for type and weight of fabric. Thus, when utilizing such a machine, it may be helpful to choose knit and light weight, respectively. When the desired function, like seam forming, basting, etc., is chosen, then a computerized sewing machine may implement the best stitch type and default settings to use for best results based on the information provided. However, it still may be necessary to adjust some settings to get the best sewing performance by the machine. Straight stitch sew tests may be performed to check for balanced tensions and presser foot pressure. Although a straight stitch generally isn't used for sewing on knits, such as stretchable fabric 10, once straight stitch tensions are balanced and pressure determined, these settings will likely remain fairly consistent for most machine sewing on the stretchable fabric 10.
Sewing machine tension balancing is typically a “tug of war” between needle thread and bobbin thread. To easily identify the bobbin and needle thread in this sew test stitching, it may be worthwhile to set up a sewing machine with different colored threads in each. As depicted at sample test 2 in FIG. 37, both threads have equal strength, and a good balanced perfect stitch is the result. With such a matched tension stitch, an operator won't likely see the bobbin thread on top of the fabric and the operator won't likely see the needle thread on the bottom either. Rather, the stitching will appear much like that similarly depicted at sample test 2 in FIG. 38. Examination of the other two thread diagrams at sample tests 1 and 3, respectively shown in FIGS. 37 and 38, reveals that one thread in each was pulled to the other threads side of fabric. The thread that ends up on the wrong side of fabric normally loses the “tug of war” and needs to be tightened or if it was the bobbin thread, then the needle thread tension needs to be loosened. Preferably, bobbin tension may be changed only if absolutely necessary. In sample test 1, as depicted in FIG. 37, the bobbin thread is pulled up to the needle's side, so needle thread can easily be pulled out, as in sample test 1 depicted in FIG. 38. Bobbin thread has looped over needle thread above the fabric, rather than being locked together within the fabric. In sample test 3, the needle thread is brought down to the bottom of the fabric and looped over the bobbin thread so the bobbin thread can easily be pulled out rather than locked together within the fabric.
When performing straight stitch sew tests, it may be beneficial to set up a sewing machine with the following machine specifications: Straight Stitch, Stitch Length 2.5 Width 0; Thread Tension: 4, With a computerized machine it may be beneficial to enter the Type of Fabric: Woven and the Sewing Process: Seam. The machine's computer will then likely choose the proper stitch. If Knit fabric is entered the machine's computer may choose a stretch zig zag stitch. Since the desire it to test a straight stitch, it is preferable to enter Woven fabric type. It is also preferable to use a new 75 stretch needle free of burrs for the sew test.
Prior to sewing a straight stitch sample test, fold the fabric sample in half lengthwise to stitch across narrow width. It is preferable to not fix, knot or backstitch, since the test is designed to attempt pulling out the “stronger” thread. It is also preferable to use a paper leader in front and under the fabric sample to prevent fabric from being poked into the needle hole on the switch plate. If it is still difficult to move the fabric during the straight stitch sew test, it may be beneficial to try reducing the presser foot pressure. Line up edge of foot with edge of the sample fabric and begin stitching through both paper leader and fabric, while pulling paper gently to get fabric moving. It may be beneficial to cut long tails and perform a “Pull One Thread Test”. Whichever thread pulls out has the stronger tension (wins the tug of war) since the other thread was pulled to its side and created a loose loop over that thread (winner of the tug of war) which needs to have its tension reduced. Once the sew test sample is finished, it is helpful to look on each side of the sample to see if the wrong colored thread is visible.
If a custom-fitted single seam stretchable fabric skirt 100 is going to be formed using a sewing machine that is incapable of doing a stretch stitch or zig zag stitch, then a straight stitch may be utilized. It may be effective to increase the stitch length slightly, on the machine's settings. To conduct a straight stitch sew test, as depicted in FIG. 39, the fabric can be held from behind the needle and, with the other hand, the fabric can be stretched, as a straight stitch 2002 is sewn. Stretching, while sewing, will increase the fabric under each stitch resulting in a more relaxed stitch with a little more give, so the straight stitch will hopefully not break when the stretchable fabric stretches a little again.
As those of ordinary skill in the art will likely appreciate that terms such as Stretch Stitch, or Lightning Stitch are common references to a short, narrow zig zag stitch. With respect to knits and stretchable fabrics, zig zag stitches are useful, because such stitching allows the fabric to stretch. Hence, zig zag stitching may be preferable for sewing a hem or a seam of a custom-fitted single seam stretchable fabric skirt 100. With respect to sewing a test sample, it may be preferable to sew a zig zag stitch crosswise across the fabric, along about a 6-inch width of sample fabric. When setting up a sewing machine for stitching that will be effectively operable on knits and stretchable fabrics, it is helpful to consider that zig zag stitches typically stretch with fabric and do not break the stitching thread, as might happen if a straight stitch is used. Most modern sewing machines have a setting for a zig zag type stitch. Often computerized sewing machines have a setting for a Lightning Stitch, which is merely an automatically set zig zag stitch, that is narrow in width and short in length.
With continued reference to the drawings, FIG. 40 depicts a top perspective view of an embodiment of sew testing a fabric test sample 9, including pressing stay tape to the fabric in preparation for stitching. The fabric sample 9 may be pressed with an iron 69, in order to adhere, through heat-fusing application, a row of fusible stay tape 32. The use of fusible stay tape, or as it is sometimes called knit stabilizer tape, as adhered to stretchable fabric, such as the fabric of sew test sample 9, may help make the edges of stretchable fabric less slippery, and/or less likely to curl and stretch out under the presser foot of a sewing machine, and/or may help keep the fabric from being sucked into a needle hole, and/or help keep the stretchable fabric in a condition that is generally more easily sewn and stitched. A user may locate a hem edge (6″ crosswise or most stretchy edge) of a fabric test sample 9 and lay one row of stay tap on the wrong side of the hem edge or both edges if possible. The fusible stay tape may be measured along the hem edge and cut, allowing an extra 1-inch, or so, of tape at the beginning and end of the hem for potential shrinkage, when sewn. With the typically rough fusible side of the stay tape 32 down, the tape 32 may be lined-up along the both raw edges of the hem portion of test fabric sample 9 and/or along both 5″ lengthwise sides for a slit, box or pleat, where both edges may be stitched for a slit or pleat sample. Pins, such as straight pins 76, may be placed vertically into the fusible stay tape 32 and potentially an ironing board, to hold it in place on the edge of the fabric test sample 9. The iron preferably may be readied with “Polyester” or nylon according to fabric content and “Steam” settings, to avoid overheating the tape 32 and the stretchable fabric sample 9. It may also be helpful to use a press cloth (such as perhaps silk organza because of its translucent and see through properties) when heating the fusible stay tape 32 with the iron 69. It typically takes around 10 seconds of pressing the iron 69 in a location to fuse the tape, but those of ordinary skill may gauge the fusing time according to responsiveness of the stay tape 32 to fuse-inducing heat. Preferably, the pins, such as straight pins 76, are removed while fusing, so that the iron 69 doesn't ever press directly on the pins 76. It may be helpful to fuse as much of the tape 32 to the fabric sample 9 as possible, without moving the fabric until it is cool, and then moving to the next section of fabric for additional fusing, if necessary. The heat-enacted fusing process may be repeated until the entire length of the hem is fused.
To further prepare the test fabric sample for sew testing, as shown in FIG. 41, the fabric sample may be positioned wrong side up, and the hem to be sewn may be folded up approximately 1 and ¼ inches along the upper edge of the fusible stay tape 32. It may also be helpful to position straight pins 76, such as long quilting pins, perpendicular or on diagonal with points about ½-inch away from the hem edge with the pin heads extending out beyond the fold. The pins may stay in while sewing (helping to keep this slipperier fabric in position) if the points are far enough away from the stitching line. Preferably the stitching line may be positioned I-inch from the fold. Beneficially, there may be no need to remove the pins as the fabric is sewn. If pins are inserted on the diagonal, potentially less pins may be used, since they cover more fabric than, for example, pinning the fabric perpendicular to the stitching line. The sewing machine may be set for stretch stitch (or zig zag stitch) length 2.5 and width 1. Preferably the hem will be sewn 1-inch from the fold. In addition, it may be beneficial to line up the fold with a 1-inch mark on a stitch plate under a presser foot of the sewing machine, or otherwise measuring 1-inch and marking the stitch plate, perhaps with a blue painter's tape. Alternately, an edge/quilting guide affixed to the sewing machine's foot and set to 1′ width may be utilized. With the fabric sample 9 positioned wrong side up, sew zig zag test stitching 2003 across the hem. Then observe the functionality of the zig zag test stitching 2003 and how well it holds up when the fabric is stretched. If necessary, adjustments may be made and the process repeated with the edge of another fabric test sample 9, until the results of the sew test are satisfactory. It may be beneficial to record the best machine setting results.
It may also be useful to test zig zag stitching for other fabric sewing applications, such as for stitching a single seam or a waist casing of a custom-fitted single seam stretchable fabric skirt 100. The sew testing may be performed in a manner somewhat similar to the test for zig zag stitching a hem (as depicted in FIGS. 40-41), but may include the placement of two sheets of sample fabric 9 together, so that the correct sides of the fabric samples 9 face and abut each other. The automated settings of a sewing machine, with such capability, may be set to: knit fabric, light weight, and seam function, with defaults being stitch length 2.5, width 1 and tension 4. Manual setting of a sewing machine may be necessary if it is not automated or computerized. The test zig zag stitching of the seam may be sewn lengthwise along a 5-inch side of fabric sample 9, by aligning the layered fabric 9 edges under a presser foot, preferably along a 1 and ¼ inch seam guide on a stitch plate, or by following a user made mark at approximately the same distance. To sew the seam, since the stretchable fabric knit seam has no stabilizer to provide support to the edges, it may be helpful to use leader paper at the beginning of the seam sample to help prevent fabric bunching in the needle hole. The needle thread and bobbin thread extending out to the back may be pulled to assist in this process of moving the fabric along, as depicted in FIG. 39. Again, adjustments may be made and the process repeated with the edges of other layered fabric test samples 9, until the results of the sew test are satisfactory. For convenience, the best machine settings corresponding to satisfactory stitching, may be recorded.
A form of zig zag stitching, also commonly referred to as a Three Step Zig Zag Overcast or a Serger Overlock, are often used to overcast fabric edges and also permanently attach fusible stay tape. This form of three step zig zag stitching 2004 is, inter alia, depicted in FIG. 42. Often, this type of three step zig zag stitching may be effectuated, by adjusting the settings of an automated computerized sewing machine to specifications with Fabric: knit, light, and 3 Step Overcast being entered into the computerized sewing machine's sewing advisor, wherein the default settings will likely be: Length 9, Width 5, Tension 4. A non-computerized machine may be manually adjusted to obtain similar settings. Preferably, an edging foot 2076 may be used while stitching, to keep the edges of the fabric from rolling while being overcast. However, a decorative foot or a utility foot with a tunnel underneath to allow for thickness of stitches, may also be acceptably utilized. Fusible stay tape 32 may be applied to the wrong side of one or, preferably, both edges of the fabric test sample. As depicted in FIG. 43, with an edging foot 2076 attached, a single layer of sample fabric may be placed under the edging foot. Ordinarily, a three step zig zag type stitch 2004 stitches over the wire guide keeping the fabric edge flat and preventing it from rolling. To conduct the test, sew the fabric sample with the three step zig zag stitching to overcast the edge of the fabric, permanently fusing stay tape, which may become detached when laundering the finished skirt. Again, the process may be repeated until satisfactory, with adjustments being made as needed, and best settings recorded.
Sometimes it is preferable to form a blind hem. Hence, it may be necessary to perform a sew test to determine best stitching practices for the chosen skirt fabric. A common sewing machine stitch for a blind hem is a Stretch Blind Hem, or also sometimes referred to as a Blind Stretch Hem. To prepare for sew testing, a computerized sewing user may preferably select: stretch light fabric and Blind Stretch Hem and sewing advisory default settings using a Blind Hem Foot, Stitch Length 17.5, Width 3 and Tension set to 4.2. A non-computerized machine may be correspondingly adjusted manually. As depicted in FIG. 44 a three step zig zag stitching may be used to overcast a stay tape fused to the edge of a fabric sample. A blind hem edge fold 2016 may be formed and folded approximately 1 and ¼ inches to the wrong side along the edge of the fused stay tape and test fabric sample, and the fold 2016 may be preferably secured by pins. As depicted in FIG. 45, a stretch blind hem stitch 2005 typically includes four tiny stretch zig zag stitches and then one wide zig zag. The hem fold may be bent back to the correct side exposing ⅜-inch of fused hem edge beyond the fold. The four stretch stitches may be preferably sewn on the flat edge and the left swing of the wide stitch, when sewn, will preferably catch the fold. The right toe of a blind hem foot 2077, or comparable foot, may be maneuvered along the folded edge of the wrong side of the fabric sample, as the stretch blind hem stitch 2005 is sewn across the fabric hem sample. If necessary, the stitch width may be adjusted to barely “catch” a thread or two on the fold by moving the needle closer to the fold. Once the blind hem stitch 2005 is sewn, as depicted in FIG. 46, the correct side of the fabric sample may be checked to see if the stitching hardly shows. Yet again, the process may be repeated until satisfactory, with adjustments being made as needed, and best settings recorded.
As with other sew tests, it may be helpful to test a Twin Stretch Needle Top Stitch or “Faux Cover Stitch” that is often utilized for a hem that looks like a serger cover stitch on ready-to-wear clothing articles. During such a test, it may be effective to sew from the correct side, wherein the bottom thread zig zags between parallel rows of straight stitching formed on top. Many modern sewing machines that can use twin needles, such as the twin needle 79 depicted in FIG. 50, can perform this professional looking stitch. Sewing machine set up may include procuring two spools of thread, preferably the same fiber and weight (where one can be a bobbin wound with same thread), and threaded according to the sewing machine manual's directions. Machine settings may include a Twin Stretch Needle 75/2.5 or 75/4 mm for example, a Stitch Length 4, which may prevent a ridge from forming between two stitching lines, and a Width 0. It is preferable for the needle to be a stretch so it can glide through looped knit threads without breaking the fibers of the thread or the fabric to be sew tested.
Since a top stitch will likely be sewn on the correct side of a custom fitted single seam stretchable fabric skirt 100, the stabilizer tape may be beneficially attached to the inside layer of a skirt where stitching is formed, or a sew test sample to provide support. As depicted in FIG. 47, on one sample edge a first twin needle sew test may involve fusing, with an iron 69, one layer of stay tape to the wrong side of the fabric sample, directly attached to where the needle thread stitches, rather than to a hem edge. Some stretchable fabrics may work better for sewing with one layer of stay tape fused to the wrong side of the fabric sample, and other stretchable fabrics may work best for sewing with two layers, wherein a second layer may be fused to the wrong side of the fabric sample hem. On the wrong side of a fabric sample, it may be helpful to measure 1 and ¼ inches away from the hem edge and place markings approximately ½-inch away from each other, such as by utilizing an erasable marker. As in FIG. 47, stay tape may be aligned along marks on the fabric sample. To help keep the fabric and the stay tape aligned, pins may be stuck vertically into the tape and possibly the ironing board, and may be removed as the iron 69 is used to fuse the tape.
On another fabric sample edge, it may be beneficial to perform a similar second twin needle sew test involving fusing two rows of stay tape to the wrong side of the fabric and hem of a test sample. As depicted in FIG. 48, a second row of stay tape may be fused above the first row, which may be lined up along a hem edge. As such, with fusible side of the tape down, a second row of fusible stay tape may be lined up along the first row, with care taken to not overlap the two rows of stay tape. A slight space between the two rows of stay tape is preferable, so the hem will fold up flat. It may be beneficial to cut the stay tape allowing an extra 1-inch of tape at beginning and end of the hem to accommodate any shrinkage when sewn. Stick pins vertically into tape, fabric, and ironing board to hold in place along edge of Stay Tape to be fused. Remove pins as you fuse hem. In a manner similar to the first sew test with just one row of stay tape, to help keep the fabric and the stay tape aligned, pins may be stuck vertically into the tape, and may be removed as the iron 69 is used to fuse the tape.
With respect to either the first twin stretch needle sew test (with one row of fused stay tape) or the second twin stretch needle sew test (with two rows of fused stay tape), as depicted in FIG. 49, the hem may be folded up around or between the edges of stay tap and pinned in place, with the pins placed perpendicular to the fold. It is preferable, if pins are used, to locate the pins so that the pin points are approximately ½-inch away from the hem edge, with the pin heads extending out beyond the fold. The pins may stay in place while sewing, if they are located far enough away from the approximately 1-inch stitching line 2017. When conducting the first twin needle stitching sew test, for a fabric sample prepared with one row of stay tape, the correct side of the fabric sample may be laid out on top of a stitch plate. The hem may be placed in a position under a presser foot, so as to line up the fold to the right of the needles and along an approximate 1-inch seam guide mark on a stitch plate, or a mark placed on the fabric sample, or along an edge quilt/guide set for 1″ width.
Prior to sewing, it may be beneficial to leave about 4-inches of thread out behind the needles. Still further, it may also be beneficial to initially turn the hand wheel to initially insert the twin needles into the fabric sample. Although a twin needle stitch 2006 looks somewhat like a Serger Cover Stitch, it is highly preferable to make sure that the stitch is never started or ended off the fabric, as is common with a serger. Moreover, it is also beneficial to initially engage the fabric “needle down” so, if for any reason the sewing machine needs to be stopped during stitching, the needles will stay in the fabric and the stitching line will remain straight. If, perchance, the stitching thread breaks or runs out during stitching, it may also be beneficial to rethread the sewing machine and have the twin needles initially reenter the same holes a few stitches back from where the stitch ended. During sample test sewing, it may also be beneficial to stop part way through sewing from edge to edge, lift the presser foot and change the stitch length, since doing so may provide an efficient way to change and note preferences. Longer lengths between stitches tend to make the area flatter between the two stitching lines of the twin needle stitch 2006. It may also be beneficial to compare stitch characteristics between the first (one row of stay tape) twin needle sew test and a second (two rows of stay tape) twin needle sew test. With either or both twin needle sewing tests, the testing process may be repeated until satisfactory, with adjustments being made as needed, and best settings recorded. Further depicted in FIG. 51 is the underside of the Twin Needle Stretch Stitch hem.
There are some circumstances when it may be desirable to utilize a hand catch stitch, during the formation of a custom-fitted single seam stretchable fabric skirt 100. Thus, it is important to perform a sew test to determine characteristics of a hand catch stitch in the chosen fabric. As depicted in FIG. 52, a hand catch stitch 2007 is preferably sewn crosswise on the sample to more closely match characteristics of sewing a hem and the stitch 2007 is preferably sewn lengthwise for sample stitching characteristics more closely matching sewing a slit or pleat opening. This stitch typically provides a significant amount of stretchability, often more than a hand blind hem stitch. The hand catch stitch provides a custom, often professional-like, finished look to a hem or optional opening. Those in the art will appreciate that it is preferable to use a fine hand needle, such as hand needle 27. Polyester thread is also a preferable material for hand stitching because of its material characteristics, although thread made of other materials are acceptable. It may be beneficial to treat the thread with beeswax or comparable substance so the fabric may have less tendency to knot or twist, by first running the thread through the substance to coat it. Fusible stay tape may be fused to the wrong side of the fabric and a 1 and ¼ inch fold may be made along the upper edge of the stay tape. Pins may be utilized to hold the folded test sample material in place. To help in attaining a very evenly spaced stitch, with a marking implement, such as an erasable marker 61, place dots may be marked every ½-inch above the top hem edge. It may be beneficial to test the marker on scrap fabric of the same type as the chose fabric, to make sure it will wash out prior to potential use on the skirt 100 fabric. On the hem fabric of the sample, place dots may also be marked every ½-inch, but located in between the place dots on the fabric edge. To hand stitch a skirt hem, slit or other opening extension hem, with a hand catch stitch 2007, if right handed, a sewer may, starting from left to right, bring the needle from inside of the skirt hem or opening extension hem and then through first dot on the hem. Then the sewer may take a tiny backstitch of about 1/16 of an inch, or just a few threads into the fabric sample. It is likely that one or two threads picked up will hardly be seen on the correct side of the fabric, especially if the sewing is performed with matching thread. In addition, the sewer may bring the needle to a next edge marked dot on the skirt hem or opening extension hem, by taking a backstitch, preferably only through the top thickness of fabric. Then the sewist may repeat the process, by alternating with a tiny backstitch on the fabric sample. At the end, to complete the hand catch stitch 2007, the sewer may knot the thread on the hem or the kick pleat fabric; double knotting may be preferable. If any pins were utilized, the pins may also be removed when the hand catch stitch 2007 is completed. To remove the marked dots, one may dab the dotted material with water. It may be preferable to use water to wash off the dots prior to ironing, since heat may set the marks permanently.
With continued reference to the drawings, FIG. 53 depicts a top perspective view of an embodiment of sew testing fabric including using an embodiment of a serger 2040 that is partially shown. A serger, or an overlock machine, may be effective in forming ready-to-wear hems. For instance, a Serger Cover Stitch Hem, may replicate ready-to-wear hems often incorporated in commercial manufactured garments. When utilizing a serger, such as serger 2040, to stitch hems while performing a sew test or while forming a custom-fitted single seam stretchable fabric skirt 100, it may be beneficial to sew two rows of stitching, although a three-row stitch may be used to create a more custom look. When setting up the machine, it may be beneficial to use four spools of light weight (#80-#60) 100% polyester thread. The type of stitch may be set to be a Cover Stitch and tension and other settings should be commensurate with knit fabric. A cover stitch foot 2042 may be utilized. For sewing the type of stretchable fabric utilized in the sew tests and in forming a custom-fitted single seam stretchable fabric skirt 100, a narrow Cover Stitch may provide a preferable stitch setting option for most modern sergers. Before starting to sew the cover stitch 2008, it may be preferable to create a thread chain 2008a approximately 4-inches in length, so that the cover stitch 2008 may be started immediately upon the fabric. The thread chain 2008a may then be positioned such that the portion nearest the needles is located on the edge of the fabric where sewing is to begin. It may also be preferable to hold the thread chain 2008a up out of the way when stitching begins. Additionally, with the thread chain 2008a positioned on the edge of the fabric, it may be preferable to make sure that the serger cover hemstitch 2008 is only started when the fabric is positioned under the needles, otherwise the threads may become knotted. In addition, a cutter (not shown) of the serger, such as serger 2040, may be disengaged to perform a serger cover hemstitch 2008, as depicted in FIG. 54.
As further shown in FIG. 54, since a stabilizer may not be needed to perform a serger cover hemstitch 2008, a seam gauge, set to approximately 1 and ¼ inches, may be used to measure the hem, wherein the hem may be folded up along the measurement and pinned in a way that allows the pins to be removed, as the serging process moves along. Additionally, it may be beneficial to mark a seam allowance guide on a stitch plate, with the seam gauge, as measured about 1-inch from the right needle of the serger 2040 and marked with blue painter's tape 37. During the sew test(s), and while forming a custom-fitted single seam stretchable fabric skirt 100, with the desired correct side of the fabric up and needles oriented in an “up” position, as depicted in FIG. 53, the hem fabric may be slid under the front part of the cover stitch foot 2042 without raising the foot lever. When the folded edge of the hem is lined up along the blue mark 37, the left needle of the serger 2040 will likely stitch close to the raw edge (on the wrong side of the fabric). However, it may be preferable to continue stitching off at the end of the fabric to form an approximately 8-inch long thread chain, when finishing the stitching of a serger cover hemstitch 2008. Moreover, it may be beneficial to stitch the threads out a ways and cut them, instead of pulling the threads out roughly, to avoid the potential for bending or breaking a needle. To cut the threads, it may be preferable to use a thread cutter, by laying the thread chains into the thread cutter from back to front, and then pulling to leave a long thread chain. A long thread chain may allow stitching to start immediately on the fabric, once additional stitching is potentially started again. If the stitching of the serger cover hemstitch 2008 seems too tight or too loose, adjustments may be made and another cover stitch hem may be sewn on test fabric until a satisfactory result is obtained and corresponding machine settings are recorded.
To overcast the edge of a skirt hem or an optional seam opening extension hem formed with stretchable fabric, such as fabric 10 used in forming an embodiment of a custom-fitted single seam stretchable fabric skirt 100 or used in testing a fabric sample 9, the Overlock Stitch settings of a common serger may be set from the group comprising: 4 thread; 3 thread wide; 3-thread narrow; 2 thread; and, 2 thread narrow. Although one of ordinary skill in the art would appreciate that all the settings in that group may work for overlocking, the 3-thread narrow overlock may be preferable, since there is one less needle to keep threaded with tensions adjusted, and that setting produces a less dense, lighter stitch than a 4-thread setting. As such, it may be preferential to use one 80/12 stretch needle in the right position for narrow overlock, and in the left position for a wider one. For testing purposes, overlock the 6-inch crosswise edge of a test fabric sample 9 for testing a skirt hem and overlock the 5-inch lengthwise edge of a test fabric sample 9 for testing the stitching of an optional seam opening extension hem. As in other tests, adjustments to tensions, stitch finger, differential and length may be made and the edges of test samples may be serged again, until satisfactory results are obtained and corresponding machine settings are recorded.
Another sew test may include evaluating another stitching embodiment of a thread overlock for a seam, as depicted in FIGS. 55 and 56. The overlock may be stitched on an approximately five inch long lengthwise edge of a test fabric sample. For most modern sergers the machine settings may be set with fabric type entered as: Knit. Light Weight: with 4-thread Overlock; and, Thread it, wherein the settings may be set according to a corresponding serger manual. The serger 2040 may also be set up with two 80/12 stretch needles and four spools of thread (preferably 100% polyester lightweight #80-#60 thread, since there are four thread strands going into creating this overlock stitching). The presser foot 2041 pressing force may be reduced to N−1 (where N−5 is a common maximum), so stretchable fabric, such as that used to form a custom-fitted single seam stretchable fabric skirt 100, may move more smoothly through the feed dogs of the serger 2040 without stretching. After the serger 2040 is threaded, the four threads may be placed under and behind the presser foot 2041 and it may be preferable to turn the standard hand wheel of the serger 2040 2-3 times, so that initial stitches are formed on the stitch finger (not shown). Then, it may be preferable to create a thread chain 2009a approximately 4-inches long, so that the stitching may begin directly on the fabric. With the correct sides of two fabric samples placed together, a seam line may be marked, such as by drawing the seam line with an erasable marker. In addition, with a seam gauge, a measurement 1 and ¼ inches from the right needle of the serger 2040 and the seam allowance distance may be marked with a strip of blue painter's tape 37. With the machine prepared and the fabric marked, the fabric may be placed under the front part of the presser foot 2041 with raw edges of the fabric in front of the cutter, wherein the presser foot 2041 level does not have to be raised. However, it may be necessary to raise the presser foot 2041 if heavy fabric is used. The marked seam line may be positioned so as to line up with the outside needle of the serger 2040. Preferably, the first few stitches of the overlock may be sewn slowly, by turning the hand wheel, and after that the fabric may be fed automatically, as guided by the marked seam toward the presser foot 2041, allowing the excess seem to be trimmed. When the overlock stitching sample is finished, at the end of the test fabric sample, it may be preferable to chain off (or keep stitching after sewing off the fabric) for several inches. Then, it may be preferable to cut off the thread chain using a thread cutter, typically included on common sergers, and laying the threads into the thread cutter from back to front, and thereafter pulling the threads forward over the cutter to cut them and free the threads and stitched fabric. Again, as in other tests, adjustments to tensions, stitch finger, differential and length may be made and the edges of test samples may be serged again, until satisfactory results are obtained and corresponding machine settings are recorded. At this point, a sewist may choose a hem preference from any of the seven described hem possibilities including an unhemmed raw edge.
With continued reference to the drawings, FIG. 57 depicts a flow chart 3000 characterizing more specific methodology for draping stretchable fabric around a wearer to fit and then form an embodiment of a custom fitted single seam stretchable fabric skirt 100. The draping of the fabric may be done in consideration of single seam location (with respect to the eventual wearer's body) and fitting, desired length and hem, as wells as waistline fit and function. As depicted in FIG. 58, the fabric may be draped on an eventual wearer's body, preferably with the correct side of the fabric facing outward, and the unhemmed top edge of the fabric may be stuffed under waist elastic 80, until a portion of fabric 18 is folded over the waist elastic. Since the fabric has previously been rotated about the eventual wearer's body, then the center front pins on fabric may need to be aligned with the center front seam on the pants of the wearer beneath it and kept in that position during fitting. The eventual wearer may also provide input regarding desired location for the single seam and potential associated slit, box or kick pleat and the fabric may be adjusted accordingly and then the center front location of the custom fitted single seam stretchable fabric skirt 100 may be marked, such as with a safety pin 15. The eventual wearer may also provide input regarding desired length of the skirt, such as a mini-skirt length 120a, a maxi-skirt length 120b, or a midi-skirt length 102c, and the fabric may, accordingly and as needed, be pulled further up under the waist elastic 80.
Once the fabric is draped according to the custom design decisions of the eventual wearer, the single seam may be further fitted for desired snugness. If greater snugness is desired, the fabric may be grasped and pulled tighter at hip level, until the eventual wearer is satisfied with the snugness and fit, and then the single seam may be marked, by placing two markings vertically above one another, through both fabric layers, along the desired seam location (with respect to the eventual wearer's body), such as by the placement of two vertically aligned safety pins, as depicted in FIG. 28. It is preferable if both sides of the seam allowance may be of equal width, since design positioning had been determined previously in FIG. 28.
With the seam 110 positioned in the desired location with respect to the eventual wearer's body, such as a center back location, as depicted in FIG. 59, it may be preferable to check to be sure both hemlines at the bottom of the skirt 100 match up. Furthermore, it may be preferable to make certain the hemline is parallel to the floor, by using a measuring device, such as a ruler 41, and checking that the hemline position above the floor is consistent for the entire width of the hemline as draped around the eventual wearer's body. If necessary, the fabric may be pulled upward or downward to obtain a matched and parallel hemline. Then, it may be preferable to evenly distribute the fullness of skirt fabric around and under the waist elastic 80, perhaps with more fullness to the back while maintaining a center front marked position (shown marked by a safety pin 15 in FIG. 58). With the fabric properly fitted around the waistline, the waistline may be marked, for example, by inserting safety pins 15 in the fabric around the waistline in the fold above the waist elastic 80, being careful not to pin the waist elastic 80. When initial fitting is completed, the single seam 110 is preferably oriented as a vertical line perpendicular to the floor and along the skirt portion of the eventual wearer's body, as the fabric is draped in a fitted position around the eventual wearer's body.
With further reference to the drawings, FIG. 60 depicts a flow chart 4000 characterizing more specific methodology for transferring marks of a single seam and a waistline to form an embodiment of a custom fitted single seam stretchable fabric skirt 100. To transfer seam marks, it may be preferable to start with the correct side 10a out and fold the skirt fabric 10 in half along the center front line of the skirt 100, matching seem edges as depicted in FIG. 61. Moreover, for convenience, the center front fold 56 delineated by single pin mark 15 may be placed on a mat line with the hem lined up toward the person working on the fabric. With the hems lined up, it may be preferable to pin the hems together all along the skirt bottom to keep them securely in place. As depicted in FIG. 61, the hem stitching line 83 may be positioned along or parallel to a mat line and the fabric 10 may be smoothed out so that both layers are lined up at the top, above the safety pin 15 marked waistline 81. An erasable marker 61 may be used to draw seam line marks 84 along the at least two safety pin 15 marks denoting the location of the single seam. With one or more straight edges, such as 2″ wide clear plastic rulers 41a, 41b and 41c, it may be preferable to measure out approximately 2-inches from the transferred erasable marker 61 seam marks 84, potentially lining up the rulers along grid mat lines, if used, so that the fabric 10 may then be cut or trimmed, for example with a rotary cutter 30, along this line.
A seam line may be drawn by flipping the fabric 10 so that it is folded in the opposite direction, still along the center front line, so that the wrong side of the fabric is facing out. Again the single seam, top edges and the hemline 83 may be aligned and the fabric 10 smoothed. With the fabric 10 in such an aligned condition, it may be preferable to measure approximately 2-inches from the edges of the single seam and, with a straight edge and an erasable marker 62, mark this line, which should match the seam marks drawn on the correct side of the fabric 10. In preparation for final fitting both fabric layers may be securely attached along the drawn single seam line, such as by basting along the seam line with several safety pins 15, and/or straight pins to hold the fabric layers in place, as depicted in FIG. 63.
With the fabric still oriented wrong side 10b out, as shown in FIG. 63, with the hem and single seam layers pinned together, waistline pin-marks may be transferred by using an erasable marker to dot approximately every ½-inch along the safety pin 15 marked waistline, to form a waist fold line 81. During the dotting process, it may be preferable to compare the waistline safety pins of the top folded layer with the waistline safety pins located on the lower fabric layer, as depicted in FIG. 64. If there is a slight difference between the alignment of the waistline pins 15 (less than 1-inch) then the difference may be split between both sides (or layers) of the fabric and new line may be dot marked on the top layer. However, if there is more than a 1-inch difference in alignment of the waist line pins 15, as in FIG. 65, then there may be a chance that one hip of the eventual wearer sits higher than the other hip. Some people do have a higher hip on one side of their body versus the other, and, for people with such a physical stature, it might be necessary to mark a higher waistline on one side or the other of the fabric. In such a case, both sides of the waistline will be different and fitting and forming the fabric in such a circumstance will be covered in greater detail later on.
Once the dot-marked waistline 81 is finished, with the fabric 10 still folded along a center front line 56, a clear plastic ruler and an erasable marker may be utilized to create another dotted line for the waist casing edge line 81b approximately 3-inches above the previously dot-marked waistline 81, as shown in FIG. 66. It may be preferable for the center front and center back to be fairly square, or straight, and not curvilinear when the skirt 100 is worn by an eventual wearer. Hence, with a ruler, such as a ruler 41, approximately 2-inches of straight line dots 81c may be drawn across the dot-marked waistline 81, at the center front and center back of the skirt, in relation to the position of the skirt when worn by an eventual wearer. To facilitate final fitting, just in case the hand-drawn waistline marks 81 disappear, it may be preferable to baste along the waistline 81, such as by hand basting a simple strait stitch, as shown in FIG. 67, or basting with straight pins or safety pins placed along the waistline, as before. The fabric above the dotted waist casing edge line 81b may be cut off and trimmed, such as with a rotary cutter 30. When trimming along the dotted waist casing edge line 81b, it may be beneficial to keep track of the portion being removed 81x, as depicted in FIG. 68. The removed portion 81x, as solely shown explicitly in FIG. 68, may serve as a template that can be used to make additional custom-fitted single seam stretchable skirts 100 using the same fabric 10, or using fabric fairly similar in stretch characteristics to the fabric 10 used to make the initial custom-fitted single seam stretchable fabric skirt 100. As depicted in FIG. 69, if necessary, the fabric may be unfolded and laid out flat wrong side 10b up, to facilitate fitting and cutting a waistline 81 corresponding to a high hip of a waist of an eventually wearer that is higher on one side than the other. As such, in a similar manner, a waist casing edge line 81b may be dot-marked 3-inches above the dot-marked waistline 82. Hence, with a ruler, such as a ruler 41, approximately 2-inches of straight line dots 82c may be drawn across the dot-marked waistline 82, at the center front and center back of the skirt, in relation to the position of the skirt, when worn by an eventual wearer. To further facilitate final fitting, again just in case the hand-drawn waistline marks 82 disappear, it may be likewise preferable to baste along the waistline 82, such as by hand basting a simple straight stitch, as shown in FIG. 70, or basting with straight pins or safety pins placed along the marked waistline, as before. The fabric above the dotted waist casing edge line 81b may be cut off and trimmed along the dot marked waistline 82 with a rotary cutter 30. When trimming above the dotted waist casing edge line 81b, it likewise may be beneficial to keep track of the portion being removed 81x, as depicted in FIG. 70. The removed portion 81x, as solely shown explicitly in FIG. 71 for high hip situations, may serve as a template that can be used to make additional custom-fitted signal seam stretchable skirts, with high hip dimensions, using the same fabric 10, or using fabric fairly similar in stretch characteristics to the fabric 10 used to make the initial custom-fitted single seam stretchable fabric skirt 100.
With further reference to the drawings, FIG. 72 depicts a flow chart 5000 characterizing methodology for final fitting an embodiment of a custom fitted single seam stretchable fabric skirt 100. Final fitting provides one last chance to assure the fit is on target and the way the eventual wearer desires it to be. As depicted in FIG. 73, the eventual wearer may try on the skirt, as previously fitted and basted, with the correct side out. Any excess fabric 18 may be pulled up under the waist elastic 80, so that the marked waistline is right along top of the waist elastic 80. The eventual wearer can double check the look and fit of the skirt by checking, inter alia, skirt length, tightness of fit around hips when sitting down, single seam 110 location, waistline placement, height of optional seam opening from hem, and comfort around the waist. A ruler 41 may be used to take measurements from floor to the hemline, to be certain the hem is equal distance all the way around the skirt 100. Any adjustments may be made from the waistline to accommodate any differences and safety pins may be used to re-mark the waistline at the waist elastic 80, when all adjustments have been made.
Depending on how tight the skirt 100 is fitted, an eventual wearer may want to make a slit, box or kick pleat opening, to facilitate easier walking and physical movement, while wearing the skirt 100. If the eventual wearer decides to include slit, box or kick pleat in the skirt 100, a decision regarding how high up from the hem the eventual wearer wants the slit, box or kick pleat seam opening to extend. For example, a midi-skirt may have, per the eventual wearer's designation, a slit length of 10-inches. Correspondingly, the slit length can be longer for a maxi-skirt and may be shorter, or even non-existent, for a mini-skirt. During final fitting the slit, box or kick pleat height may be marked with double safety pins 15. The basting, in the area of the slit, box or kick pleat may be removed going from the hemline up to the top mark of the seam opening. Each side of the slit or kick pleat may be pinned back to its corresponding side along the seam line, and the eventual wearer can look in a mirror to approve the seam opening length.
When final fitting has been completed, the skirt 100 can be removed from the eventual wearer, by pulling excess fabric out from under the waist elastic 80 and removing the skirt down off the body.
With further reference to the drawings, FIG. 74 depicts a flow chart 6000 characterizing methodology for sewing the center back seam of a custom fitted single seam stretchable fabric skirt 100. With the skirt 100 finally fitted, the fabric 10 may be folded along a center front line fold and placed on a cutting mat with the wrong side down, so that the single seam is aligned on the far left and the hem is aligned along the bottom, when facing the skirt, as depicted in FIG. 75A. The double safety pins 15 that may have been used to mark the top of a slit, box or kick pleat may be replaced with straight pins and the no opening and slit opening choices may be pinned back together and readied for trimming. As possibly marked with safety pins holding the fabric together, a single seam stitching line can be created using an erasable marker 61 along a straight edge. Moreover, when prepping for a no-opening slit choice, a seam allowance cutting line can be created using an erasable marker 16 along a straight edge formed, for example by three rulers 41, wherein the cutting line may be located about 1 and ¼ inches from the already marked single seam line, to form a seam allowance portion of fabric. Any excess fabric may be trimmed along the rulers' edges from the hem up to the top of the skirt, as shown in FIG. 75A. Following trimming, the seam allowance width will be approximately 1 and ¼ inches, from the marked seam line to the edge of the fabric. For both the box and kick pleats, as depicted in FIG. 75B, the center back seam allowance is not trimmed below the double pin marks; the trimming of the center back seam ending approximately 2.5″ above the pin marks for the box pleat and ½″ above pins for the kick pleat.
Once trimmed, the single seam may be pinned and sewn, as shown in FIG. 76A for a slit option; or sewn from the hem edge for a “no seam opening” option, as depicted in FIG. 77. As further depicted in FIG. 76B, the seam starts at the double pin marks, with the untrimmed seam allowance forming wider pleat extensions than for the split. Diagonal pins may be inserted along the seam allowance starting at the hem for no opening, or at pin marks for a slit, box or kick pleat and extending down to the waistline. Preferably the pins may be oriented so as to face downward, with the pin points located in a row approximately ½-inch from the seam line, so the pins may not need to be removed while stitching the single seam, thereby helping to keep the stretchable fabric in place while sewing, as depicted further in FIG. 77. At this point the seam line may likely be already marked for easy sewing. The sewing machine may be set in accordance with the settings commensurate with the recorded test results pertaining to the type of stitch desired. For example, if a zig zag stitch is desired, the sewing machine may be set for: Lightning Stitch, with other applicable settings adjusted in accordance with the appropriate sew test. Starting at the hem edge for a “no seam opening” option, or at the top of the slit or pleat, for corresponding options, it may be preferable to fix, knot or backstitch a few stitches to lock the seam and provide wear resistance. Then the seam may be sewn, for example with a zig zag stitch 2003, along the marked seam line from the hem edge for a “no seam opening” option or from the top of the slit, box or kick pleat option to the waist casing edge.
With continued reference to the drawings, FIGS. 78 and 79, respectively depict flow charts 7000A and 7000B characterizing methodology for forming respective variation embodiments of slit extension hems or a slit extension hem with twin needle top stitch option of an embodiment of a custom-fitted single seam stretchable fabric skirt. Slit extension hems may need to be stabilized and folded in on the single seam line, and sewn to the skirt 100. There are various hem finishes operably available for slit extension hems that sewists can choose from, preferably in accordance with the results from corresponding sew tests. Hand catch stitch, machine stretch blind hemstitch, or even a longer straight stitch may be employed for this hemming, since the slit will not likely be exposed to as much stretching as is the seam line or hem. Additionally, stretch, lightning, zig/zag or twin stretch needle top stitching may be utilized. Once a sewist decides on a stitch, they can utilize the recorded sew test settings for optimal stitching of that chosen stitch.
In general, FIGS. 80A-83 show stitching of a slit 38 extension hems with lightning stitch; how to mark and sew an embodiment of a top stitch triangle and how such stitching looks with top stitching across the top of a slit embodiment 38a. Top stitching across both sides of slit extensions may provide even more stability at the top of the slit 38a and may lessen the stress on the bottom of the associated single seam 110. As depicted previously in FIGS. 40, 47 and 48, a portion of stay tape, such as 1¼″ wide fusible stay tape, is added according to stitch choice and sew test results, generally fused under the layer of fabric upon which the needle thread stitches. Tape may be, inter alia, added: 1) right along the edge of extensions; 2) ¼″ from the edge, as depicted in FIG. 80A; or 3) both right along the edge of extensions, as well as ¼″ from the edge, particularly if the fabric 10 requires additional stabilization. Stay tape may extend from approximately 2″ above the top of the slit to a position even with the top edge of the hem. As depicted in FIG. 80B, extensions may be measured and folded in along the edge of the stay tape to form 1¼″ hems, with pins located ¾″ from the edge, so top stitching may be more efficiently performed without removing the pins. If fusible tape is affixed to the inside of the hem fabric, it may be preferable to perform a Blind stretch hem stitch or hand catch stitch from inside. Conversely, if stay tape is fused 1¼″ in from the extension edge then it may be preferable to sew or top stitch from outside of the skirt, since it is generally preferable to have needle thread stitching on the side of the extension hem that is fused to prevent stretching.
As depicted further in FIG. 81A, on the correct side of the fabric, both folds of slit 38a may be lined up together with hems even. Then, a clear plastic ruler, such as 2″ wide clear plastic ruler 41, may be placed over the single seam, so that a 1-inch centerline down the middle of the ruler 41 is lined up on top of the opening of the slit 38a. The top of the ruler 41 may be positioned so that it is approximately 1-inch above the top of the slit 38a. A mark, such as with a pin 76, may be placed on the single seam 110 at the top edge of the ruler 41, so the mark is on the seam approximately 1-inch above the top of the slit 38a. Additional marks may be placed approximately 1-inch away from both sides of the top of the slit 38a, wherein the additional marks may again be pins 76 and coincide with the ends of extension hem stitching. The three marks, or pins 76, may form a triangle.
To sew an embodiment of the slit 38 with zig zag stitching, it may be preferable to start at the hem. As depicted in FIG. 81B, sewing may commence, with a preferred stitch, such as a zig zag stitch effectuated with settings of the machine set according to an applicable sew test, so that the stitching commences from the top of the hem. The fold may be lined up along a 1-inch mark on a stitch plate, and a 1-inch line may be marked with tape, or an edge/quilting guide may be set to 1-inch, to assist in stitching to the first pin of the marked triangle. When using a machine, with the needle positioned down into the fabric, the first pin of the triangle may be removed. Then, the fabric may be pivoted so that stitching may continue to the next pin at the top of the triangle, whereupon the fabric may be pivoted once more to facilitate further stitching to the final pin of the triangle, so that stitching may proceed to the other hem and ended with a knot. Alternatively, if a Blind stretch hem stitch or hand catch stitch is utilized, as depicted in FIG. 81C, stitching may begin with a fix or knot on one side of slit 38a and continue along the other slit hem extension. As further depicted in FIGS. 81B and 81C, once the extension hems of slit 38 are sewn, a reinforcement of stitching around the triangle may complete the process. Accordingly, a reinforcement stitch may have 4-inch tails and stitching to where the hem stitching ended, with a fix or knot stopping at the top pin. Reinforcement stitching may, likewise, involve pivoting and stitching to the pin mark on the other side of the slit. For a blind hem, it may be effective to stitch the bottom of the triangle and then engaging a fix or knotting the thread.
Slit extension hem stitching may utilize several different stitches, however, a twin stretch needle top stitch 2017 may be used when sewing another embodiment of a slit 38, such as a slit extension hem, as specifically depicted in FIGS. 82 and 83. It may be preferable to attach fusible stay tape, by measuring along the slit 38a edge and adding an extra 1-inch of tape at the top of the slit 38a. The use of fusible tape may accommodate potential shrinkage, when sewn, wherein fusible stay tape at the hem may be trimmed even with the hem. To sew an embodiment of a stitch 38a having twin stretch stitching 2017, the skirt fabric may initially be positioned wrong side 10b up, and the fabric of the slit 38a extensions may be folded approximately 1 and ¼ inches along an edge of the fusible stay tape. To help secure the fabric, pins may be inserted along the folds, preferable with the pin points diagonally downward and ¾ inch away from the extension edge, to allow for stitching 1-inch from the edge without having to remove pins. Then, to mark sewing lines, the fabric may be turned correct side 10a up and both folds of the slit or kick pleat 38 may be oriented so that the hems align. In a manner similar to that described before with respect to FIG. 81A, a ruler, such as clear plastic ruler 41, may be placed over the single seam, so that a 1-inch centerline down the middle of the ruler 41 is lined up on top of the opening of the slit or kick pleat 38. The top of the ruler 41 may be positioned so that it is approximately ¼-inch above the top of the slit 38a. If a marking implement, such as a pen or marker, has been tested on the fabric to make sure it can be successfully erased, a stitch line may then be drawn around the ruler. This stitch line may then be utilized to guide placement of the outside twin needle during the stitching process.
To sew an embodiment of the slit 38a with twin stretch needle stitching 2017, the skirt fabric may be slid correct side 10a up, onto the free arm of a sewing machine, if it has one, or simply oriented with skirt fabric correct side 10a up for sewing. If a sewing machine has a stitch plate seam guide, it may be preferable to sew in view of the 1-inch seam line marking. Otherwise, it may be preferable to mark the seam line with blue painter's tape on the stitch plate, to position the fold along while sewing, or utilize an edge/quilting guide attachment to sewing machine foot set for 1-inch width. Moreover, it may be preferable to engage the material “needle down” so if, at any time, the sewing process needs to stop for some reason the needles will hold the fabric in place and the stitches will continue in a straight line. The fold of the slit 38a may be positioned under the presser foot, in a manner so that the right needle is aligned along the 1-inch seam guide mark on fabric or the stitch plate, or along the blue painter's tape. Another option may be to use a moveable edge/quilting guide rod inserted into the sewing machine foot, if the machine has such structure, and set to 1-inch width. It may be preferable to leave about 4-inches of thread out behind the needles, when sewing starts. In addition, it may also be preferable to start by turning the hand wheel to initially insert the needles into the fabric. As depicted specifically in FIG. 82, stitching may preferably begin just on or above the hem and may continue upwards until the top of the marked stitching line is reached, wherein the last stitch may be located in the corner of the top stitching line. Stitching may then be stopped and the pressure foot raised, so that threads may be pulled out approximately 8-inches. The pulled-out threads may then be cut approximately in half leaving about 4-inches of thread to begin sewing again and the rest for knotting. Before starting to sew again at the corner of the stitching line, since the pulled out threads need to be pulled inside of the skirt, it may be preferable to thread a hand needle with each thread and poke it through the inside of the skirt, and then a double knot may be tied and the threads cut to approximately ½-inch. As in FIG. 83, sewing may continue, by turning the skirt fabric and lining up the right needle to where the last stitch ended, to then stitching across the top of the slit 38a and stopping at the other marked stitch line corner. Threads may again be pulled and cut and in a manner similar to the other corner and stitching may likewise continue again down to a location on or just above the hem stitching. If a stitch is needed to connect to the line of stitching on the hem, then it may be preferable to thread a tail into a hand needle and make additional stitches by hand. Following stitching the thread tails may be cut to approximately 4-inches for knotting inside of the skirt.
With continued reference to the drawings, FIG. 84 depicts a flow chart 7000C characterizing methodology for forming an embodiment of a box pleat of an embodiment of a custom-fitted single seam stretchable fabric skirt 100. The box pleat extensions may need to be stabilized and folded in on the single seam line. A box pleat 38b insert can have various dimensions, but, as depicted in FIG. 85, the pleat insert fabric width may be approximately 4 inches. In addition, the length of the box pleat 38b may also have various dimensions, but it is helpful to add approximately 3 inches to the length of the pleat insert fabric. For further convenience, an approximately 1 and ¼ inch strip of fusible stay tape 32 may be added to the hem. Moreover, as depicted in FIG. 86, for additional convenience an approximately 2-inch-wide strip of fusible stay tape 32 may be applied to the box pleat 38b extension and pins 76 may be utilized to hold it in place while pressing. Sewing and stitching may be performed in correspondence with settings derived from previously conducted sew tests. As depicted in FIG. 87, the pleat extensions may be folded in approximately 2-inches along the stay tape and the hem folded up 1¼ inches along the stay tape. As depicted in FIG. 88, with the tape side down on the sewing machine, starting at the hem edge, the box pleat insert fabric maybe attached to pleat extensions with a ⅜-inch seam. Preferably a stretch stitch 2003 may be utilized with stitching set according to previously performed sew tests.
To help reinforce the top opening of the box pleat 38b, a top stitch triangle may be utilized. On the correct side of the skirt, as depicted in FIG. 89A, a measuring tool, such as a 2-inch wide ruler, may be positioned with the lower ruler edge along the top of the pleat opening, and the 2-inch ruler mark on top of the center back seam line. A pin 76 may be placed along the top of the ruler at the center back seam. In addition, along the bottom of the ruler, a measurement of approximately 1½ inches can be determined on either side of the center back seam and marked with pins 76 for both bottom points of the triangle. After removing the ruler, a new pin 76 may be positioned inch down from the top pin and the top pin 76 may be removed. This pin forms the new triangle top point for the top stitching.
Prior to top stitching the box pleat 38b triangle, it may be preferable to pin extension folds together at the center back seam, being careful to also line up hems even with each other, as depicted in FIG. 89B. To sew an embodiment of the box pleat 38b with a desired stitch, such as a zig zag stitch or long straight stitch, it may be preferable to start at the new top pin 76 mark of the marked triangle, and slide the pin 76 under the presser foot of a sewing machine. After pulling out about 4-inches of thread and engaging, fixing or knotting the thread, the sewing needle may be lowered into the new top marked position of the skirt fabric, with the skirt fabric laying correct side up, and then the pin 76 may be removed. Sewing may commence, with a preferred stitch, such as a zig zag stitch effectuated with settings of the machine set according to an applicable sew test, so that the stitching commences from the top marking running through one of the two side markings, or lower pins 76 of the triangle, and then with the needle down into the fabric, at a chosen lower pin mark, the presser foot may be raised and the fabric pivoted to a position allowing sewing over the pin on the other side of the box pleat opening. The fabric pivoting process may be repeating and sewing may return to the new top of the triangle point where stitching initially began, whereupon sewing may conclude with an end fix or knot. The threads may be pulled to the wrong side of the knot if needed. Trimming of excess fabric may be effectuated by turning the skirt to the wrong side and, with a ruler and a marker, drawing a line inch from the top edge of the insert fabric. Excess fabric across the line may be trimmed with shears. Moreover, a dotted trim line may be created ⅜ inch from both top triangle seams. In addition, a trim line for center back seam allowance may be marked 1¼ inches from the seam, extending onto the fabric insert and down to the dotted triangle trim lines. Both layers of the triangle trim lines may be trimmed out to the edges of the pleat insert.
With continued reference to the drawings, FIG. 90 depicts a flow chart 7000D characterizing methodology for forming an embodiment of a kick pleat 38c of an embodiment of a custom-fitted single seam stretchable fabric skirt 100. As depicted in FIG. 91, when looking down at the fabric from a top view, to the left of the kick pleat 38c extension edge, a 2-inch stay tape may be applied, so as to extend from approximately inch above the pleat opening to under the hem edge, positioning it according to knowledge obtained from applicable sew tests. With the tape side down on a sewing machine, stitching, such as zig zag stitching or any other preferred edge stitching, may commence about ¼ inch from the edge to affix the tape to the fabric. If a serged-type edge is preferred, then no stay tape is required to be affixed to the fabric to finish the kick pleat 38c. As depicted in FIG. 92, it may be preferable to add to the right kick pleat 38c extension, when viewed from a top perspective, a ⅜ inch stay tape applied so as to extend from approximately inch above the pleat opening to under the hem edge. Again, with the tape side down on a sewing machine, stitching, such as zig zag stitching or any other preferred edge stitching, may commence about ¼ inch from the edge to affix the tape to the fabric. Likewise, if a serged-type edge is preferred on the right side, then no stay tape is required to be affixed to the fabric to finish the kick pleat 38c.
When forming an embodiment of a kick pleat 38c, the pleat extensions may be folded in approximately 2-inches along the tape edges, as depicted in FIG. 93A. A measuring instrument, such as a rule 41, may be utilized to determine fold width. The folded pleat extensions may be pinned in place with pin points approximately ¾ inch from the edges, while making sure to keep the hems even. On a folded pleat extension, a pin 76 may be positioned approximately 1 and inches from the pleat opening and about inch in from the edge, to mark the start of top stitching. As depicted in FIG. 93B, stitching of the left kick pleat 38c extension may include orienting the skirt fabric so that it is correct side up. Then, stitching may commence, along a line approximately 1 and ½ inches from the folded edge, by using a 1 and inch mark on the sewing machine's stitch plate (if it has one), by following a line marked at that location with tape, or by using a machine edge/quilt guide set for 1 and ½ inches. The stitching may comprise a stitch, such as a running straight stitch, a zig zag stitch, or any other operable stitch, and may extend from the top designated pin mark to the bottom of the hem. As depicted in FIG. 94A, with a stitch of choice, such as Blind Hem Stitch or a Hand Catch stitch 2007, the fabric may be oriented so as to be wrong side up and the left pleat extension (or the hem on the right side when perceived from a top view with the fabric wrong side up) may be stitched and hemmed. However, it may be desirous to leave the fabric unhemmed, especially if the skirt 100 includes a relatively short pleat design.
To help reinforce the top opening of the kick pleat 38c, a top stitch may be utilized. On the correct side of the skirt, as depicted in FIG. 94B, a measuring tool, such as a 2-inch wide ruler, may be positioned on the right pleat (when viewed from a top perspective) with the lower ruler edge running parallel with the bottom edge of the skirt. Pins 76 may be placed at intervals 2-inches from the edge of the pleat, so as to mark a line running parallel with the pleat edge. Then, the left kick pleat 38c extension (as viewed from a top perspective) may be positioned so that the fold edge is located contiguous with and aligned along the line on the right kick pleat 38c extension marked by pins 2-inches from the edge of the right kick pleat 38c extension. When in that contiguously aligned position, the bottom edges of both kick pleat extensions should be even, and then the left kick pleat extension can be pinned to the right kick pleat extension to keep the pleat extensions aligned and in place with respect to each other. A pin 76 may be placed at the top of the kick pleat 38c opening and then a line can be drawn, with an erasable marker, from the top pin 76 to the end of the stitch line on the pleat. A top reinforcement stitch may be sewn from the location where previous stitching ended, to the pin positioned at the pleat opening. The stitching may be fixed or knotted at both ends on the inside of the skirt, or wrong side of the fabric.
To facilitate further functionality of the kick pleat 38c, the skirt fabric may be positioned wrong side 10b up, as depicted in FIG. 95, and, with a ruler and a marker, a dashed or dotted line may be created to delineate a trim line approximately ⅜-inch from the reinforcement stitching. To open the fabric for seam allowance, a cut may be made from the edge to the ⅜-inch mark on the seam, the cut paralleling the reinforcement stitching. A center back seam trim line may be marked 1 and ¼ inches out from the seam down to the dashed or dotted trim line paralleling the reinforcement stitching. With a cutting instrument, such as shears, the remaining fabric, between the trim line and the end of the center back seam line may be trimmed and removed, so that only the top layer is trimmed, along the dotted line from the edges of the pleat extension to the ⅜-inch mark on the seam.
With continued reference to the drawings, FIG. 96, depicts a flow chart 8000 characterizing methodology for forming an embodiment of an elastic waist and an embodiment of a waist template of an embodiment of a custom-fitted single seam stretchable fabric skirt 100. During final fitting of the skirt 100, the waistline may be adjusted and, if the waistline is adjusted, then it may be necessary to redraw a new waistline marking 81 in correlation with the adjusted waistline, safety pin 15 marks, as shown in FIG. 97. A ruler, such as a clear plastic ruler 41, or other measuring implement may be used to create an adjusted waist casing edge line 87 that is 1 and 2-inches above the finally fitted top elastic at the waistline, by dotting, with a marking implement such as an erasable marker 61, every half inch above the finally fitted waistline 81. The fabric above the adjusted waist casing edge line 87 may be cut-off and trimmed by a cutting implement, such as a rotary cutter 30. It may be preferable to save the removed trimmed fabric for possible use in making a waist template.
With the excess fabric trimmed, a fold may be created along the marked waistline 81, as depicted in FIG. 98, so that the fabric is folded over the elastic 80, wherein the square stitched connection 85 of the elastic 80 may be moved so that it does not fall right on top of the single seam 110. The single seam 110 may be opened up and pinned flat. As the fabric is folded over the elastic 80 to create a casing, the folded portions may be held in place by diagonally downward placed straight pins, so that the pin points may be oriented so as to be pointing away from the fold. Then, as depicted in FIG. 99, the skirt may be turned wrong side out and prepared for sewing the casing. If the sewing machine has a free arm the waistline may be slid around it. The sewing machine settings may be set in accordance with a desired stitch, such as a zig zag stitch 2003, and in view of the sewing characteristics and recorded settings from a previously performed corresponding sew test. To create the waistline casing, it may be preferable to sew along the bottom edge of the elastic 80 using a long narrow zipper foot or any comparable foot, so that the casing slides under the foot with the casing fold towards the sewing machine. It may be preferable to stitch close to the elastic without sewing into it, as the sewing commences around the entirety of the waist portion of an embodiment of a custom-fitted single seam stretchable fabric skirt 100. Once finished the thread may be fixed with a knot, or a few stitches of backstitching may be sewn to lock the waist casing stitching in place.
It may be preferable to construct a template for the waist curve of the wearer 50 of the custom-fitted single seam stretchable fabric skirt 100. Such a waist template may facilitate the efficient formation of other similar skirts 100 made from similar stretchable material and fitted to the same wearer 50. As depicted in FIG. 100, to make a waist template 400, for a wearer having fairly even hip height, several pieces of paper, such as pieces of paper 402 and 404, may be taped together lengthwise end-to-end. Then the taped paper 402/404 may be turned over so that the tape side is down. The pieces of trimmed fabric 81x that was previously trimmed above the waist casing line may be positioned on the taped paper, so that the longest straight edge of the trimmed fabric 81x is aligned parallel with the top straight edge of the taped paper, on the trimmed pattern paper 400 mark center front fold 56. As further depicted in FIG. 100, then the curved edge of the trimmed fabric 81x, which represents the fitted and delineated waist casing line of a skirt 100, may be traced onto the paper. With a ruler or other straight edge, a straight line may be drawn downward on the taped paper, from the center front fold line 56 of the fabric template to the bottom of the taped paper. With the line traced and drawn, the trimmed fabric portion 81x may be removed and the taped paper may be cut along the traced and drawn line, as depicted in FIG. 101. Cutting the taped paper along the traced and drawn lines results in two primary paper portions: a discardable portion 400x comprised of taped portion 402x and 404x; and a waist template 400. A similar process of forming a waist template 500 for a wearer having a high or uneven waist is depicted in FIG. 102. Again, several pieces of paper may be taped together. However, because the waistline curvature may not be symmetrical it will not be preferable to fold the trimmed fabric 81x along the center line 56. Rather, the entire curvature of the trimmed fabric 81x may be traced onto the taped paper. Center front line 56 may be extended along a ruler onto paper 404. Once the taped paper is cut along the traced line, as in FIG. 103, the top portion 500x may be discarded and the bottom portion may serve as a waist template 500.
With continued reference to the drawings, FIG. 104, depicts a flow chart 9000 characterizing methodology for forming an embodiment of a lining 700 of an embodiment of a custom-fitted single seam stretchable fabric skirt 100. A lining 700 is sewn as a separate garment and attached to the skirt 100 at the waist casing edge after the single seams 110 are sewn on each. There are numerous ways to finish the hems (for the lining bottom and/or for slit edges) as in the sew tests described previously. The use of fusible stay tape isn't recommended, unless the chosen fabric needs it, since the fusible stay tape will add bulk to hems. The utilization of hand, machine, and serger rolled hems are also a possibility. It may be preferable to fold the lining hems up about inch using sew test hem stitch preference and settings. Since it is an option for a skirt 100 to have no bottom hem, it is also an option for the lining 700 to have no bottom hem.
With further reference to the drawings, FIGS. 105-111 depict various stages of the formation of an optional lining 700, in accordance with the present description. The fabric for the lining 700 may be prepared in a manner similar to the fabric preparation performed for the formation of the skirt 100. For example, the lining 700 fabric may be straightened and squared, and any store cut edges may be trimmed and removed. The selvages may be trimmed and blue painter's tape 37 may be used to mark the hem edge of the fabric. Additional excess fabric can be trimmed later.
Just prior to sewing the single seam 110 of the skirt 100, the skirt 100 may be used, in some manner, as a template to help mark the dimensions to be cut out to make the lining 700. As depicted in FIG. 105, the pins 76 marking the single seam 110 may be removed, except two pins may be left to mark the top of the slit, box or kick pleat on the one seam line. The lining 700 fabric 710 may be placed wrong side 710b up and the skirt 100 fabric can be placed on top of the lining 700 right side, so that the wrong sides 710b and 10b of the lining 700 and the skirt 100, respectively, may be together. The bottom hem of the skirt 100 may be lined up with the bottom hem of the lining 700, and the right edges of the lining 700 and the skirt 100 may also be aligned, preferably along a grid line. The fabric may all be smoothed. Then, with an erasable marker 61, a dot-marked waistline 781 may be marked on the lining 700 to match the waistline of the skirt 100.
A trimline 771 may be drawn on the lining 700, with an erasable marker 61, as depicted in FIG. 106. In addition, the double pin 76 marks may be transferred from the skirt 100 to the lining 700 and the skirt 100 fabric can be removed. Rulers, such as ruler 41, may be placed and aligned to mark and trim off ½ inch from the bottom hem 773 of the lining 700. Accordingly, the resulting length of the lining 700 will be 1 inch shorter than the skirt 100, when the lining 700 is finally hemmed up another ½ inch. The excess fabric above the dot-marked waistline 781 may be trimmed using a rotary cutter 30. Moreover, the excess fabric beyond the trim line 771 on the left edge may be trimmed using a rotary cutter 30, as depicted in FIG. 107. The hem edge 773 may be sewn by pinning up a ½ inch fold along the bottom of the lining 700. A hem stitch may be set, in accordance with previously performed sew test preferences and settings, with the hem fold lining up along a stitch plate guide of the sewing machine. It may be beneficial to utilize leader paper to prevent the fabric 710 from sticking into the needle hole, as referenced in FIG. 108, which shows center back seam stitching. Sewing of the single seam of the lining 700 may be accomplished by placing correct sides 710a together and double pinning the top of the slit, box or kick pleat double pin marks. The stitch type of the single seam may be determined in accordance with previous sew test preferences. As depicted in FIG. 109, with the single seam edges pinned together, sewing may commence from the top of the double pin 76 marked slit or kick pleat and continue up the seam edges to the top waist casing edge. Regardless of whether a slit, box or kick pleat is sewn on skirt 100, a slit is performed on all linings 700. As shown in FIG. 109, the slit can then be sewn in a manner similar to that disclosed with respect to skirt 100, by, inter alia, trimming approximately ¾ of an inch from the single seam and slit extensions, thereby leaving approximately ½ inch seam allowance. Sewing may commence from the top of the slit toward the bottom hem of the lining 700. Finally, the lining 700 may be attached to the skirt 100 along the waist casing. As depicted in FIG. 110, the lining 700 may be pinned to the skirt 100 along the waist casing edges, matching up seam lines first. Then a zig zag or overcast stitch may be utilized to sew the lining 700 and attach it to the skirt 100. The waistline casing of the skirt 100 may then be completed by treating the skirt 100 and lining 700 as one. Furthermore, the lining 700 may be attached to the skirt 100 with a crocheted thread chain at the slit hem, as depicted in FIG. 111 for skirt slits only. Neither a box pleat nor a kick pleat may require this feature.
Although various aspects are illustrated and described herein with reference to specific embodiments, the aspects, in whole and in part, are not intended to be limited to the details shown. For example, the apparatus, system and methods described herein may be utilized to track reduction in human size, as opposed to growth in human size, and may also be used to track any change in human size. Rather, various modifications may be made in the details within the scope and range of equivalents of the claims and without departing from the invention.
