FOOTWEAR

Abstract

Low drop footwear which provides an illusion or an outward appearance of heeled footwear having heel-to-toe drop greater than D.r comprising an upper having an outside face and an inside face, a low drop insole having a footbed face and a heel-to-outsole face, and further comprising a heel and an outsole, said low drop insole comprising a backpart and a forepart and a midpart therebetween, said insole backpart comprising a point-of-heel at said footbed face thereof and said insole forepart comprising a point-of-treadline at said footbed face thereof, wherein said insole footbed face provides a real heel-to-toe drop D.r between said point-of-heel and said point-of-treadline, relative to said tread plane, wherein D.r is in a range of from zero drop to 15 mm drop; and wherein said low drop insole comprises an insole backpart thickness at point-of-heel t.ih and comprises an insole forepart thickness at point-of-treadline t.it wherein t.ih is less than t.it, and said heel comprises a heel height, in line with said point-of-heel, H.h and said outsole comprises an outsole forefoot thickness, in line with said point-of-treadline, t.o, wherein H.h is greater than t.o, wherein a difference in t.ih and t.it is less than or equal to a difference in H.h and t.o; and wherein said upper, heel and outsole provide an enclosure enclosing said low drop insole, whereby said low drop insole extends (upwardly) within said upper inside face for said insole thickness or at least part thereof, a part thereof selected from a low drop insole and an upper and a method for the manufacture thereof.

Description

The present invention relates to footwear, more particularly to a shoe or boot, or part thereof, most particularly to enclosed footwear, enclosed toe footwear, and the like, more particularly to low drop footwear including zero drop footwear, more particularly to heeled footwear comprising a heel and a sole or a sole unit comprising integral heel and sole, an insole and an upper therefor, a low drop insole, a low drop upper or lasted low drop insole (i.e. an insole applied to a last), a method for the manufacture thereof, the use of said insole, upper, lasted insole or last in manufacture thereof. More particularly the invention relates to low drop footwear, including zero drop footwear also known as no drop footwear.

Heeled footwear herein provides two discrete tread surfaces or points of ground contact, at a heel and at a forefoot or forepart of a sole also termed outsole. A further portion of sole provided therebetween is a mid-sole or waist. The mid-sole or waist herein provides for a generally non-ground contacting or non-tread support for the mid-portion of the foot, or may be in other ways visually distinct from the heel and sole.

It is usual for many categories of footwear comprise a visually discrete or distinct heel and sole, including footwear selected from dress footwear, office footwear or formal footwear and certain categories of fashion footwear, such as wherein the heel is visually separate from and at greater elevation or of greater height than the sole.

Heeled footwear is generally, although not exclusively, considered appropriate to accompany formal, smart or smart-casual attire, such as office wear, tailored attire such as a suit and the like in contrast to non-heeled footwear. This is particularly the case for dress footwear or formal footwear, office footwear and for certain categories of fashion footwear, in contrast to trainers, casual footwear and sandals as well as footwear with molded outsole units including heel.

Such casual footwear includes footwear having low heel-to-toe drop, that is wherein the difference in elevation of point of heel and point of treadline or forefoot is insufficient to provide a separate or visually separate heel and sole. Low drop footwear is generally accepted to have a heel-to-toe drop in the range up to 15 mm, and includes zero drop footwear having a drop of substantially 0 mm, such as in the range from 1 mm to 0 mm.

Heel to toe drop in classic footwear is set by shoemaking convention and thus not generally given much if any consideration. It will nevertheless be apparent that a usual heel to toe drop is in the range 15 mm to 25 mm. Footwear having heel to toe drop less than 15 mm generally fails to provide a classic look, but resembles a sneaker or trainer or similar casual shoe. Accordingly a low heel to toe drop herein is a drop which is less than that for conventional classic footwear. A particularly envisaged low heel to toe drop herein is in the range up to 10 mm. Nevertheless footwear herein providing a heel to toe drop in the range from 15 mm to 10 mm is aesthetically superior to classic footwear having a similar heel to toe drop.

Low drop and zero drop footwear is generally associated with health benefits resulting from gait, posture and weight distribution between heel and forefoot. Low drop footwear is recommended for individuals transitioning to zero drop footwear or may be footwear of choice for aesthetic reason or health reason. The footwear item is for accommodating and/or enclosing in the forepart, midpart and hindpart, respective forefoot, midfoot and rearfoot or hindfoot regions of a wearer's foot above the tread plane.

This invention relates to a footwear item affecting the relative disposition, more particularly the relative elevation above the treadplane of the weight bearing points of the foot of a wearer, more particularly the point of heel of the rearfoot or hindfoot region and the ball of the forefoot region.

More particularly the elevation of the point of heel of a wearer above the tread plane is the same as the elevation of the ball of the forefoot region of the wearer above the tread plane, i.e. there is zero heel-to-toe drop or zero drop, or the elevation of the point of heel of a wearer above the tread plane is up to or including 10 mm greater than the elevation of the ball of the forefoot region of a wearer above the tread plane, i.e. there is low heel-to-toe drop or low drop, more particularly up to or including 10 mm heel-to-toe drop or drop.

Accordingly this invention relates to a footwear item comprising zero heel-to-toe drop or zero drop or low heel-to-toe drop or low drop of up to or including 15 mm, i.e. there is zero drop in elevation or low drop such as less than or equal to 15 mm drop in elevation of the upper surface of the insole or weight bearing parts thereof above the treadplane, from the rearpart or hindpart of the footwear item to the forepart of the footwear item.

Zero or low drop may be substantially across the upper surface of the insole or between at least at a point of heel located in the rear part or hindpart of the upper surface of the insole and a point of tread located in the forepart of an upper surface of the insole. The point of heel is at or proximal to the centre or centrally to the insole, more particularly located to accommodate the point of heel of the foot. The point of tread is located on a nominal line of flex of the item, more particularly located to accomodate the ball of the forefoot and above a nominal treadline along the bottom of the footwear item where the item is designed to flex or bend.

This invention accordingly relates to zero drop or low drop footwear comprising a heel and an outsole which provides two discrete tread surfaces or points of ground contact, a first tread surface or point of ground contact at the heel and a second tread surface or point of ground contact at a forepart or toe of the outsole, the shoe having zero heel-to-toe drop or low heel-to-toe drop.

The point of heel and treadline provide support for the weight of the wearer, more particularly establish a balance of the footwear, whereby the line of flex coincides with the treadline. This provides a balanced posture and balanced walking position for a wearer. A further portion or midpart of outsole provided therebetween is a waist. The waist of the footwear item herein provides a non-ground contacting or non-tread support for the mid-portion of the foot.

It is usual for dress footwear, office footwear or formal footwear and for certain categories of fashion footwear to comprise a discrete heel and outsole, wherein the heel is of greater height or elevation than the outsole.

As described hereinbelow, elevation of the point of the heel with respect to the point of the treadline is considered to inhibit the natural extension or lengthening of the foot, by separation of the toe from the heel, during weightbearing such as standing and walking. Moreover such elevation has the effect of tipping the upper part of the foot forward. The wearing of footwear comprising a raised or elevated heel has been shown to cause pressure changes internally within the foot, and long term diminution and distortion of parts of the bone structure within the foot.

Unfortunately footwear providing low drop fails to achieve the elegant effect of narrowing of the midpart of the footwear which is achieved with conventional or classic footwear, by elevating the heel, conventional or classic footwear provides a diminishing of the shoe upper and sole from mid foot to toe. This has the effect of pinching and constraining the toes causing the turning in of the big toe, and cramping the remaining toes, leading to bunions etc, and causing postural changes in gait and in the alignment of the hips.

Non-conforming footwear addresses this problem by providing a wide toe box, configured so as not to constrain the natural toe line. This in combination with a low drop further contributes to a foreshortened shape, which lacks the lines of classic footwear.

Attempts to provide minimalist dress shoes such as Peerko, provide a sleek dress shoe-style upper on a minimalist outsole which cups around the lower part of the upper to give the impression of a more substantial heel and sole. Nevertheless there is no narrowing at the midpart of the shoe, giving the impression of an upmarket sneaker.

The zero drop market comprises a “zero toe-to-heel drop”, i. e with heel and toe being at same elevation. More particularly, the “point” of the wearer's heel, being the lowermost part of the heel, and the “point” of tread, being the lower most part of the wearers forefoot are comprised at the same elevation respective to a treadplane including ground contact surfaces of outsole and heel or to the ground, when the wearer is standing.

“Zero-drop” footwear for the formal and dress shoe market includes Birkenstock shoes and Caret shoes. These provide a glued on moulded one-piece heel and outsole unit. The Birkenstock heel and outsole unit typically presents a continuous ground-contacting profile between point of heel and point of treadline across the full surface area of the heel outsole unit and the outsole in the forepart is of same elevation as in the heel part giving a chunky or heavy appearance.

The Caret heel and outsole unit typically presents a moulded single unit which presents the appearance of a heel, by means of a bridge profile along a central portion of the heel and sole unit from toe to heel, i.e. the waist, linking the heel and sole portions, and an elevated edge profile to either side of the bridge portion, that is to say the edge profile resembles a moulded heel sole unit of a drop footwear item, whilst the central portion resembles a moulded heel-sole unit of a zero drop footwear item. Thus the heel portion is internally recessed to receive the heel of a wearer's foot and the central “bridge portion” or waist is internally recessed to receive a wearer's instep. The Caret shoe therefore lacks the possibility for narrowing at the waist and therefore failing to give a sleek appearance, rather resembling a sneaker.

These currently available zero drop shoes fail to give a sufficiently sophisticated look with the result that the wearer appears too casually shod for office wear or a formal dress occasion. Moreover such footwear can give an incongruous appearance when paired with a suit or formal dress. Moreover across all categories, low drop footwear including zero drop footwear, is seen as a statement of the values or beliefs of an individual, i.e. the wearer, In certain settings a wearer of low drop including zero drop footwear may choose not to display their preference. This would involve problems of transitioning between different drops of footwear.

It is therefore desirable to an individual, in certain settings, to wear low drop footwear including zero drop footwear having the appearance of conventional medium or high drop footwear.

The present invention addresses the problem of providing zero-drop or low drop footwear having the appearance of a traditional or classic drop item of footwear, more particularly the appearance of heel height and/or heel elevated with respect to outsole i.e. drop from heel to forepart of outsole, more particularly additionally resembling a formal or dress shoe in the heel and outsole as well as in the upper, for example having a distinct ground contact surface at heel and forepart, and an elevated and narrowed waist or midpart.

The heel and insole of the footwear item herein comprise a heel height and an insole height or depth or thickness which elevates the weight-bearing points of the foot of the wearer, i.e. the point of heel and ball of forefoot to the same elevation above the ground or the treadplane, more particularly to the height of the heel, i.e. with zero drop or minimal drop of the foot of the wearer. The footwear herein provides a resilient footwear and/or classic or sleek look, i.e. a distinct ground contact surface at heel and forepart, and an elevated and narrowed waist or midpart.

The heel and sole of footwear items is subject to wear at the striking point of the heel, to either side of the item in the case of being worn by a pronater or supinater, and over longer time, more generally across the surface area of the heel or a top piece thereof and outsole. Traditionally heel and outsole can be renewed or replaced, nowadays commonly by glueing one of a selection of sizes of heel top piece and outsole (top piece) rubber to the original, and cutting back to match the required shape and size.

A particular problem arises in replacing or renewing heel and outsole units for moulded outsole shoes such as Caret and Birkenstock dress shoes, to which a replacement adheres with difficulty. This may be due in part to the inhibition of shoe flex by overlaying a toe to heel unit over an original moulded unit. This may be further due in part to the lack of any distinct “edge” profile to the unit, for example the unit having a rounded edge, which provides a weakness in the securing of a replacement unit.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION

We provide herein a zero drop or low drop item of footwear such as low heeled footwear, more particularly formal or dress footwear, more particularly shoe or boot, which presents the appearance of a classic, i.e. low heeled or drop item of footwear, more particularly which provides separate or integral heel and outsole, each of which comprising a discrete ground-contacting or tread surface wherein the footwear provides a waisted portion or waist intermediate the heel or backpart and the toe or forepart (forefoot portion). The waisted footwear gives a formal or dress appearance, more particularly the outsole is waisted in a midpart thereof to resemble a corresponding classic low heeled or low drop item of footwear.

We moreover provide herein such footwear comprising renewable or replaceable heel and outsole ground contacting surfaces, more particularly wherein the ground-contacting surface of the heel comprises a replaceable heel ground-contacting surface covering, herein a top piece, for example for purpose of replacing by reheeling, such as in the case of wear or damage, and wherein the ground-contacting surface of the outsole or the outsole, is replaceable, for example with a new surface or a new outsole for example for purpose of resoling, such as in the case of wear or damage (to the ground-contacting surface of the outsole).

The footwear provides the appearance of a traditional formal, office or dress shoe. In embodiments the footwear provides sufficient toe space to prevent constraining the natural spread of the toes, i.e. comprises a flared forepart or forepart portion.

In embodiments an item of footwear herein provides zero drop from heel to toe, more particularly from point of heel to point of tread, and presents the appearance of a raised heel, more particularly a low raised heel or low heel, more particularly which has the appearance of a low drop shoe, more particularly a dress shoe such as a classic gentleman's dress shoe. We moreover provide herein a last comprising an insole attached thereto for said item of footwear. We moreover provide herein an insole for said item of footwear, more particularly a zero drop insole. We moreover provide an upper for said item of footwear which may be a stitched upper comprising plural sections, comprising a lasting allowance about a lower part thereof for securing beneath a zero drop or low drop insole herein and comprising in the midpart and forepart thereof an insole allowance corresponding to the thickness of the insole in the midpart and forepart, more particularly for lasting about a last and insole wherein the insole is seated or attached on a lower surface of the last. We moreover provide herein a zero drop last for said item of footwear having an insole as hereindefined seated or attached thereto at a lower surface thereof. We moreover provide said item of footwear which comprises a heel having a renewable tread surface or top piece, more particularly comprising a top piece or for use with a heel top piece and/or having a renewable or removable outsole or ground contacting surface thereof. A heel top piece and/or removable outsole may be removed and replaced with a replacement top piece and/or outsole or ground contacting surface thereof.

The item of footwear herein addresses the aforementioned objects.

Accordingly there is provide herein low drop footwear comprising an upper having an outside face and an inside face, a low drop insole having a footbed face and a heel-to-outsole face, and further comprising a heel and an outsole,

• • said footwear having an outside and an inside, said outside comprising said outside face of said upper, together with said heel and outsole and said inside providing an enclosure for enclosing a wearer's foot and comprising said inside face of said upper and said footbed face of said low drop insole;
  • wherein said heel comprises a heel tread surface and said outsole comprises an outsole forefoot having an outsole tread surface, said heel tread surface and said outsole tread surface comprised in a tread plane, and having an outsole midfoot therebetween.

In embodiments said low drop insole comprising a backpart and a forepart and a midpart therebetween, said insole backpart comprising a point-of-heel at said footbed face thereof and said insole forepart comprising a point-of-treadline at said footbed face thereof, wherein said insole footbed face provides a real heel-to-toe drop D.r between said point-of-heel and said point-of-treadline, relative to said tread plane, wherein D.r is in a range of from zero drop to 15 mm drop.

In embodiments said low drop insole comprises an insole backpart thickness at point-of-heel t.ih and comprises an insole forepart thickness at point-of-treadline t.it wherein t.ih is less than t.it,

• • and said heel comprises a heel height, in line with said point-of-heel, H.h and said outsole comprises an outsole forefoot thickness, in line with said point-of-treadline, t.o, wherein H.h is greater than t.o,
  • wherein a difference in t.ih and t.it is less than or equal to a difference in H.h and t.o.

In embodiments said upper, heel and outsole provide an enclosure enclosing said low drop insole,

• • whereby said low drop insole extends (upwardly) within said upper inside face for said insole thickness or at least part thereof.

In embodiments footwear provides an illusion or an outward appearance of heeled footwear having heel-to-toe drop greater than D.r.

In embodiments in footwear herein a difference in t.ih and t.it is up to 15 mm less than or equal to a difference in H.h and t.o.

In embodiments in footwear herein a difference in elevation of said point-of-heel above said tread plane and elevation of said point-of-treadline above said tread plane is in the range of from zero up to 15 mm.

In embodiments in footwear herein said insole thickness t.it is less than said heel height H.h, or said insole thickness t.ih is less than said outsole forefoot thickness to or a combination thereof, wherein said difference or said combined difference is from zero up to 15 mm.

In embodiments footwear herein is zero drop wherein said insole thickness t.it is equal to or intentionally equal to said heel height H.h, and t.ih is equal to or intentionally equal to said outsole forefoot thickness t.o.

In embodiments in footwear herein a line or plane containing the point-of-heel and the point-of-treadline at the insole footbed face is longitudinally inclined to said tread plane by an amount corresponding to a heel-to-toe drop of up to 15 mm.

In embodiments footwear herein is zero drop and a line or plane containing the point-of-heel and the point-of-treadline at the insole footbed face is parallel to said tread plane or intentionally parallel thereto.

In embodiments in footwear herein said heel comprises a heel block comprising an outwardly opposing heel face to said heel tread surface and said outsole further comprises an outsole midfoot arch surface, disposed between said tread surfaces and substantially offset (upwardly) from the tread plane, providing a non-tread face, said forefoot and said midfoot comprising an outwardly opposing outsole face to said outsole tread face and said outsole non-tread face, said opposing heel face and said opposing outsole face comprising an edge profile presenting an illusionary heel-to-toe drop D.i in a range of from 5 mm to 25 mm greater than D.r.

In embodiments in footwear herein said insole midpart has a thickness t.im wherein t.if is greater than t.ih and wherein t.im is a value increasing between t.ih and t.if.

In embodiments footwear herein is a dress shoe.

In embodiments in footwear herein said upper comprises a lasting allowance, being an amount of material excess to that enclosing the foot of a wearer for securing said upper to said insole, wherein said lasting allowance includes an insole allowance being an amount of material for enclosing said low drop insole.

In embodiments in footwear herein said insole allowance in a forepart or vamp part of or for said upper is an amount of greater than or equal to said insole forepart thickness t.it, and said insole allowance in a midpart or quarter part of or for said upper is an amount of greater than or equal to said insole midpart thickness t.im wherein t.im is a value increasing between t.ih and t.if.

In embodiments footwear herein comprises said lasting allowance of said upper overlapping an edge of said low drop insole upon said heel-to-outsole face of said insole, optionally together with a rand or welt thereof, and united to said low drop insole or said rand or welt by any one or more of stitching, glueing and bonding, and comprising said outsole and said heel secured by any one or more of fastenings, stitching, glueing and bonding, thereby enclosing said insole.

In embodiments footwear herein comprises a lasting allowance of said upper overlapping said low drop insole upon said footbed face thereof, and united thereto by any one or more of stitching, glueing and bonding, and comprising said outsole secured by any one or more of stitching, glueing and bonding, thereby enclosing said insole.

In embodiments footwear herein further comprises a manufacturing insole, secured to said upper optionally together with a rand or welt therefor or thereof, at a lasting allowance of said upper, said lasting allowance including a low drop insole allowance as herein defined, wherein said low drop insole is a removable insert configured to overly said manufacturing insole at said heel-to-outsole face of said low drop insole, thereby enclosed by said manufacturing insole and said upper. A low drop insert insole may comprise mid part and forepart only, with insole backpart being provided by manufacturing insole.

In embodiments footwear herein further comprises a manufacturing insole, secured to said upper wherein said low drop insole is a removable insert configured to overly said manufacturing insole at said heel-to-outsole face of said low drop insole, thereby enclosed by said manufacturing insole and said upper, wherein said footwear is a turnshoe, having said manufacturing insole secured to said upper at an outer face of a lasting allowance of said upper, optionally together with or about a rand or welt therefor or thereof, said lasting allowance including a low drop insole allowance as herein defined, providing said enclosure as defined in claim 1 inside out, turning, and securing said outsole to said manufacturing insole or welt or rand and inserting said low drop insole.

In embodiments footwear herein is configured for replacing of a heel top piece, being a wearing piece providing said heel tread surface and for replacing of said outsole, by removal of a heel piece or outsole and securing in a replacement heel top piece or outsole in place thereof by any one or more of glueing or bonding or stitching, whereby the inside of the footwear remains intact.

In a further aspect there is provided a part of footwear as herein defined, selected form an insole comprising a backpart and a forepart and a midpart therebetween, said insole backpart comprising a point-of-heel at said footbed face thereof and said insole forepart comprising a point-of-treadline at said footbed face thereof, wherein said insole footbed face provides a real heel-to-toe drop D.r between said point-of-heel and said point-of-treadline, relative to a tread plane therefor, wherein D.r is in a range of from zero drop to 15 mm drop;

• • and wherein said insole comprises an insole backpart thickness at point-of-heel t.ih and comprises an insole forepart thickness at point-of-treadline t.it wherein t.ih is less than t.it and from an upper or a pattern therefor or part thereof such as a vamp or quarter thereof, wherein said upper comprises a lasting allowance, being an amount of material excess to that enclosing the foot of a wearer for securing said upper to said insole, wherein said lasting allowance includes an insole allowance being an amount of material for enclosing said insole.

In a further aspect there is provided a method for the manufacture of footwear as hereindefined.

The item of footwear, more particularly comprises an upper and a substructure providing a heel and an outsole, each being separately attached to or integral with and having the appearance of being separately attached to, the upper, and having a heel tread surface and an outsole forepart tread surface, being separate or discrete. An item of footwear herein is more particularly a formal or dress shoe, more particularly a “low” heel shoe such as a womens'“Margaret Howell” style or a mens'dress style shoe, or a work boot for military wear or site-work etc, such as a steel capped certified work boot.

More particularly the shoe comprises an insole, enclosed within the upper having a difference in thickness in backpart t.ih and forepart t.it approximately equal or corresponding to a difference in height of the heel H.h and thickness of the outsole t.o (3).

Suitably a heel herein is of height H.h in the range measured in inches, here written as “of between 0.5″ and 1⅜″ (about 12 mm to 37 mm) such as ⅝″ and 1 ⅜ ″(about 15 mm to 37 mm) such as 1″ or 1 ⅛″, corresponding to about 25 mm and 29 mm respectively or a slightly lower heel height of ⅞ ″(about 22 mm) or slightly higher heel height of 1 ¼″ (about 32 mm) up to 1 ⅜″ (about 37 mm). Suitably an outsole herein is of thickness or height in ranges or amounts about a third of the heel height such as in the range 3/16″ (about 5 mm) to 0.5″ (about 12 mm) and corresponding amounts therebetween. Heel height may be measured about one cm from the chest being the front part of the heel (25 in FIG. 1A) or from the highest point of the heel, typically the back of the heel. In the case of classic men's dress shoes herein these are the same or substantially the same, more particularly as the upper surface of the heel is substantially flat.

An insole herein may be permanent, a lower surface thereof secured, e.g. stitched or glued or cemented to the upper at the lasting allowance thereof, and enclosed thereby or may be removably enclosed by the upper.

The insole extends upwardly within the upper. The upper and insole thereby provide an enclosure to receive the foot of a wearer. An outsole is secured to the upper below the lasting allowance thereof and extends below the upper. In embodiments the upper is sandwiched at the lasting allowance between the insole and the outsole. Known techniques include by means of gemband or with use of welt.

An item of footwear herein is more particularly low heeled footwear, such as a formal or dress shoe, which is zero drop or low drop.

An insole herein suitably comprises a profile at its upper surface corresponding to a lower surface of a zero drop or low drop last for the item of footwear herein, for example as illustrated in FIG. 8. The upper surface backpart and forepart profiles may be reflected in the lower surface back part and forepart with difference in thicknesses as defined. Preferably the insole edge is profiled to be continuous with the profile of the last. More particularly the insole edge is angled inwardly from upper surface to lower surface at least in the forepart and midpart and optionally in the backpart thereof. Thereby the upper lasted about the insole is recessed at the lower part thereof to provide a lip from underneath which the edge of the outsole projects footwear herein has a sleek appearance with. The footwear thereby gains a sleek appearance.

An insole may be molded to shape. In embodiments an insole comprises a pre-moulded profiled insole for example is comprised of plastic or cement or combinations thereof and optionally with other materials.

In embodiments the insole comprises a non-profiled blank for example is suitably shaped from a blunt edged blank. Shaping is suitably by shaving or skiving the edge inwardly. The profile is suitably by conforming to a last profile.

Suitably an insole shaped from a blank is a leather or synthetic leather which may be of a renewable material. Such material is readily wetted and profiled or conformed, and readily shaved or skived. Skiving the forepart of the insole differs from insole skiving in bespoke handmade shoe manufacture due to the need to retain a greater thickness of the insole herein at the edge.

The insole is also thinned at the waist towards the lower surface. In an advantage the insole herein permits a greater or equal waisting than or to classic dress shoes.

An insole herein may comprise a filler material in the forepart to confer properties such as reduced weight, increased flex or resilience. For example in insole may be rebated or channeled and filled or may be layered with a suitable elastic filler or a cushioning material such as a cork. An elastic filler or cushioning material may be solid or liquid such as paste or may be injectable, for example liquid filler or foam or sheet cork or liquid cork. Filling may be at the flex line. Preferably the insole comprises resiliently deformable filler. Thereby there is no loss in depth or shape during or after prolonged wear.

Footwear herein or a part thereof selected from upper, insole, outsole, welt or any part thereof may be comprised of any natural material or naturally occurring material or any synthetic material, more particularly any natural or synthetic polymer material such as natural or synthetic vegan or carbon-substitute or carbon-based polymer material or a combination or composite thereof. In embodiments a material herein comprises traditional material more particularly a leather or comprises a sustainable material more particularly a sustainable leather or a combination of any two or more thereof.

The material may comprise a glossy surface to one surface and matt surface to other surface. Preferably a material comprises elasticity or stretch and is suitable for shaping or conforming.

In a further aspect there is provided the novel sustainable material or its use in manufacture of an item of footwear of part thereof.

More particularly an insole herein is a monolithic piece trimmed in the backpart to a required thickness or comprises a composite or laminate of sheets or pieces overlaid and making up the forepart thereof.

The shaped insole exhibits a spring as hereindefined suitably of an amount of 7 mm or thereabouts for a size shoe 2, increased for larger shoe sizes. For example a spring may be at an angle to the treadplane of 10 degrees to 15 degrees.

An insole is shown in FIG. 7 prior to attaching to or shaping to a last.

An upper herein comprises a lower part disposed about an outer edge of the upper surface of the insole and below the, i.e. providing a heel ground-contacting surface and an outsole forepart ground-contacting surface, more particularly which provides a sleek appearance such as classic outsole height, more particularly outsole forepart height less than heel height, which provides narrowed outsole in the waist or midpart and/or profiled and/or narrowed upper in the instep and/or rounding or profiling inwardly of a lower part of the upper adjoining a line of attachment of the outsole and heel, whereby the attachment of upper to outsole is recessed inwardly beneath the lower edge of the upper.

More particularly the upper comprises a quarter portion and a vamp portion, wherein the vamp portion comprises material adapted to be comprised about and upward of the foot and a lasting allowance adapted for securing to a low drop insole or a manufacturing insole herein and a further insole allowance is adapted to be comprised about and upward of the insole, wherein the insole allowance has a width up to 15 mm.

In embodiments the upper is formed by positioning the insole as herein defined to the sole/base of a zero drop last and positioning the upper (may have been premoulded) about the last.

Preferably the process comprises in a preliminary stage providing an upper including a substantially uniform lasting allowance wherein additionally the upper provides a permanent insole allowance, the permanent insole allowance, herein a zero drop allowance, comprising an allowance of material corresponding to the thickness of the permanent insole, more particularly the zero drop allowance comprises a first allowance in the forepart of the upper and optionally a second allowance in the back part or heel of the upper, the first allowance comprising a substantially uniform allowance corresponding to the thickness of the forepart of the permanent insole and being greater than the optional second allowance comprising a substantially uniform allowance corresponding to the thickness of the backpart or heel of the permanent insole and an intermediate allowance in the midpart of the upper comprising an increasing allowance from backpart to forepart corresponding to the thickness of the midpart of the permanent insole.

Lasting is the process of pulling the upper over and around the shoe last and permanent insole. A lasting allowance is an amount of excess material of an upper which allows for lasting the upper over and around the shoe last and permanent insole. Shaping the upper to the last is preferably by tacking and tying, more particularly tacking along the centre line, molding by smoothing to the shape of the last, and tying about the edges with a tie such as muslin, rubber or other ribbon. Attaching the upper to the permanent insole may be by tacking, nailing, pegging or gluing. Attaching the outsole to the upper may be directly or preferably indirectly via a welt. Attaching may be by stitching or gluing welt to insole. Attaching outsole may be by stitching or gluing outsole to welt.

Methods for assembly of a shoe herein are as known in the art. Suitably a method comprises forming an upper (5) about a footbed (4) herein attached to a last, and attaching, e.g. stitching or pinning or stapling, the upper (5) to the base of the footbed (4); attaching (48) a welt (37) superimposed on the upper (5) outwardly of the footbed (4) and projecting radially therefrom ; and attaching the welt (37) to the sole (3) e.g. stitching (38), and attaching the heel (2) to the sole (3).

More particularly the upper is formed by first attaching the footbed as herein defined to a shoe last, forming upper material about the last and footbed and cutting a shape comprising the upper including footbed allowance and lasting allowance.

Attaching to the last is preferably by tacking and tying, more particularly tacking along the centre line, molding by smoothing to the shape of the last, and tying about the edges with a tie such as muslin, rubber or other ribbon

Prior art zero drop shoes typically comprise a moulded heel and sole one-part unit which is glued or bonded to or co-formed with the shoe. Embodiments of the shoe herein are advantageously suited for assembly or manufacture in classical manner using traditional methods most notably by hand stitching.

In embodiments there is provided a novel footbed as defined herein, more particularly for use in the manufacture of a shoe herein, more particularly comprising backpart, waist and forepart portions or waist and forepart or forepart only. In embodiments there is provided a heel, sole or last for use in the manufacture of a shoe herein. A last may be any zero-drop preferably non-conforming last, preferably a two-part or composite last or may be a last configured for ultra-waisting or waisting as hereinbefore defined.

A last may comprise arch support, for example may be custom shaped or universal-fit shaped to a foot resting on an arch support surface. This may assist in finer waisting and providing affective arch support in the upper shaping. Thereby an arch support may be dispensed with, allowing finer waisting of the shoe.

In embodiments a novel footbed herein is provided with difference in t.if and t.ih selected for a required heel elevation or height Hh. Footbeds may be provided with a range of differences (t.if-t.ih).

A footbed suitably has depth or thickness t.if as hereinbefore defined corresponding to a traditional heel height Hh, such as in the range 5 mm to 25 m, for example approximately 5, 8, 10, 12, 15 or 20 mm. A footbed suitably has depth or thickness t.ih (backpart) as hereinbefore defined corresponding to a traditional insole thickness such as in the range 1 mm to 4 mm, for example approximately 1 mm, 2 mm, 3 mm or 4 mm.

An insole herein is suitably contoured as known in the art of manufacture of orthopaedic insoles and the like.

In embodiments the upper (5) is lasted about the lower surface of the footbed or insole (4) and a lasting allowance thereof is secured below the insole (4) to a sufficient distance to permit of securing thereto for example by glueing or stitching or both. The visible portion of upper (5) comprises an amount of material configured to enclose the foot of a wearer together with an amount of material configured to enclose the footbed or insole (4), herein the insole allowance. Typically the insole allowance is of uniform width about the outer edge or circumference or feather edge of an upper. In embodiments herein the insole allowance in a forepart of the upper (5) is of greater width than the insole allowance in a backpart of the upper (5). More particularly the insole allowance in the forepart is of thickness corresponding to the height of heel (2). More particularly the insole allowance in the backpart is of width corresponding to the height of the forepart of the outsole (3). In embodiments the insole allowance in the waist portion of the upper (5) tapers between the forepart allowance and the backpart allowance. Reference herein to width of an allowance is to the distance between that part of the upper portion enclosing the foot and the lasting allowance.

In embodiments a zero drop shoe herein comprises enclosed heel and toe, i. e having upper (5) secured about the complete circumference of the heel (2) and outer sole (3).

In embodiments the heel is a monolithic block or platform. A monolithic block may be solid or may comprise a shell and cavity construction, for example for purpose of weight reduction. More preferably a heel is a laminar block or layers for example of leather or vegan renewable leather or equivalent.

In embodiments the sole or forepart (13) is a splayed-toe sole unit or forepart, such as for an item of footwear providing for spread or splay of toes, the item having a width across the mid-foot portion of the sole or waist portion (12) Wsm and a width across the heel or backpart (11) Wh, wherein Wsm is greater than or equal to 1.3 Wh, more preferably greater than or equal to 1.35 Wh, such as greater than or equal to 1.4 Wh, 1.45 Wh or 1.5 W.

In embodiments the item of footwear comprises a “waist” (12), i.e. a narrowed width between heel or backpart (11) and sole or forepart (13) for example at or in the region of the instep. A “waist” (12) has a width Wsm, which is less than Wh, for example is in the region of 0.6-0.95 Wh.

In embodiments the item of footwear herein comprises a sharp edge to the sole more particularly outsole (3) comprises a rand, rim, border or edge (36) projecting outwardly of and below the upper (5), more particularly a stitched edge. More particularly the upper (5) is comprised or lasted upwardly of and attached to the outsole (3). A stitched sole contributes significantly to the formal or dress appearance of the shoe. In one embodiment the sole comprises a channel in the upper and lower and intermediate surface area of the sole around the perimeter thereof and distanced inwardly of a rim forming the edge of the sole. The channel provides for recessed stitching of upper (5) to sole (2,3). In embodiments the channel in the lower surface area and optionally the intermediate surface area is infilled after stitching. Infilling prevents wear of the stitching on the ground-contacting surface of the sole.

General Description

Zero drop or zero heel-to-toe drop herein refers to substantially equal elevation of point of heel and elevation of point of tread of an item of footwear herein, including heel top piece and outsole.

Low drop or low heel-to-toe drop herein refers to elevation of point of heel greater than elevation of point of tread above the treadplane, including heel top piece and outsole by an amount that is less than classic drop, more particularly by an amount up to and including 10 mm.

In embodiments the footwear herein is machine-sewn or hand-sewn, whereby the upper (5) is lasted about and under the edge of the insole (4) in a lasting allowance (55) portion (55) thereof and the outsole (3) secured sufficiently underneath the insole (4) to and a welt (37) secured to the lasting allowance (55) for example by lateral stitching to the insole lower surface (45) by tacking and/or gluing and/or stitching, and its heel (2) and outsole (3) secured by a line of vertical fastenings (48,38), passing through a rand or welt (37) secured to the insole and/or lasting allowance of the upper (5), for example enclosing the inner sole or insole (4).

Alternative embodiments of our invention relate to footwear in which the soles (2,3) are secured to their uppers (5) by means other than stitching, more particularly by glueing or bonding, such as adhesive or heat glueing or bonding, and consists of a machine or hand-soled boots or shoe having its upper (5) overlapping the edge of the inner sole or insole (4) (the lasting allowance) upon its lower or wearing surface (45), and united thereto by glueing, bonding and/or stitching, and its outer sole (2,3) secured by glueing, bonding and/or stitching, more particularly to a rand or welt (37).

In embodiments, footwear herein comprises a replaceable heel piece (top piece) and/or a replaceable sole piece glued or bonded to the respective tread or ground-contacting surface of the heel (24) and/or out sole (34), or comprises a replaceable heel piece (top piece) and a replaceable (stitched) outsole; such footwear permits of removing a worn replaceable heel piece and/or replaceable sole piece or out sole and glueing or bonding a new replaceable heel piece and/or glueing or bonding or stitching a new replaceable out sole. This has the advantage that the shoe remains intact even after prolonged use; more particularly the footwear thereby has a lifetime which is not limited by wear of the heel or the out sole.

In contrast to the prior art which recesses the foot within the “heel”, the present invention provides an item of footwear in which the forefoot is built up allowing the provision of a classic heel.

Reference herein to low drop footwear is to footwear having low drop or zero drop, for example in the range from and including 0 mm to 15 mm, more particularly from and including 0 mm to 1 mm or 1 mm to 15 mm, such as 1 mm to 12 mm or 1 mm to 9 mm or 1 mm to 6 mm or 1 mm to 4 mm.

Reference herein to footbed and insole are interchangeable where context allows.

Reference herein to a “substantially planar” sole tread surface or outsole tread surface (34) includes a planar surface or a surface which is planar across its surface area with the exception of one edge, which comprises a “spring” profile, i.e. a lift at the toe-lift edge, which may be of in a range of up to 6 mm.

In embodiments an item of footwear herein comprises a sculpted waist (12), wherein the width of the item is reduced to both sides of the item, and particularly to the medial side for example there is a symmetrical or asymmetrical narrowing of the item at edge(s) thereof, i.e. at the waist (12).

In embodiments an item of footwear herein comprises an arch (32,35) intermediate the heel section and the toe section of the upper surface of the sole, i.e. the upper surface of the sole section is substantially planar about a laterally disposed intermediate arch section. An arch may have an elevation of 1.0 mm to 10.0 mm, such as more particularly of 1.5 to 10.0 mm, more particularly of 2.0 to 10.0 mm.

In embodiments a heel (2) herein comprises a plurality of vertically stacked heel lifts (22). By this means a heel (2) may be tailored to a desired heel height, and paired with a footbed (4) of a suitable height.

In embodiments the footwear herein enables the lengthening of a line between the toe and the heel, whereby the toe and heel recede slightly from each other, by the slight depression of a point intermediate therebetween towards the ground, as the length of the weight of a wearer progressively moves along the sole of the foot from toe to heel. The intermediate point is a part of the astragalus, which supports the whole weight of the body, and which is commonly identified as the top of the foot where the foot joins the leg. The sole of the foot is naturally so formed that we rest on the inside only upon the heel and the articulation of the bones of the instep with the toes, and externally upon the tuberosity of the bone of the metatarsus, where it joins the little toe. The wearing of a heeled shoe causes the weight of a wearer to rest also on the intermediate point below the astragalus, preventing its depression towards the ground, and thus preventing the lengthening of the toe to heel line. An item of footwear which prevents this lengthening may be an exact fit when seated but will pinch the toes when standing. This pinching and constraining of the toes translates into a restriction of the hip position, the gait and thus the posture and movement of the entire body, most particularly by the bending of the big toe towards the remaining toes. Moreover in the case of the wearing of high heels, the head of the astragalus is bent downwards and the bodyweight is borne predominantly on the toes, causing pressure changes internally within the foot and ultimately diminution, and distortion for their natural position, of the surface of the navicular and cuneiform bones and of those of the metatarsus which are in contact with them.

For this reason footwear is typically 0.5 inch or an inch longer than the toe to heel length of the foot in repose.

In embodiments a splayed sole provides a splay space for toes. It is known that the condition of “flat feet” is caused by constraining the sidesplay of the big toe, in turn rocking the foot to a supinated position.

In embodiments the item of footwear herein comprises a chisel-point toe (63), square toe (64) or comprises a rounded toe (61, 62), which may be symmetric or asymmetric.

The system is now illustrated in non-limiting manner with reference to the figures, wherein:

FIGS. 1 and 2 illustrate footwear herein in cross section side view

FIG. 3—illustrates heel block herein in side view

FIG. 4—illustrates assembly method and stitching of footwear of FIG. 1 in cross section side view

FIGS. 5A and 5C illustrate cross-section profiles, through lines B-B, C-C (insole) and D-D (upper) of

FIG. 5B illustrates side profile of a shoe herein showing cross section points of FIGS. 5A and 5C

FIGS. 6A and 6B illustrate alternative footwear herein in cross section side view and side elevation

FIGS. 7A, 7B and FIG. 8 illustrate insole in side view.

In FIGS. 9A, 9B and 9C are illustrated upper and parts in plan view.

FIGS. 10A, 10B and 10C illustrate cross sections of footwear.

Although a few preferred embodiments have been shown and described, it will be appreciated by those skilled in the art that various changes and modifications might be made without departing from the scope of the invention, as defined in the appended claims.

Attention is directed to all papers and documents which are filed concurrently with or previous to this specification in connection with this application and which are open to public inspection with this specification, and the contents of all such papers and documents are incorporated herein by reference.

All of the features disclosed in this specification (including any accompanying claims, abstract and drawings), and/or all of the steps of any method or process so disclosed, may be combined in any combination, except combinations where at least some of such features and/or steps are mutually exclusive.

Each feature disclosed in this specification (including any accompanying claims, abstract and drawings) may be replaced by alternative features serving the same, equivalent or similar purpose, unless expressly stated otherwise. Thus, unless expressly stated otherwise, each feature disclosed is one example only of a generic series of equivalent or similar features.

The invention is not restricted to the details of the foregoing embodiment(s). The invention extends to any novel one, or any novel combination, of the features disclosed in this specification (including any accompanying claims, abstract and drawings), or to any novel one, or any novel combination, of the steps of any method or process so disclosed.

Embodiments of the invention hereinbefore defined may alternatively or additionally consist in any one or more of the following as illustrated in FIGS. 1 to 10:

In FIGS. 1-3 zero-drop shoe has an outside and an inside, comprising an upper (5) and a heel (2) and outsole (3), insole (4), said upper (5) and insole footbed face (46), providing the inside of the shoe, comprising a backpart (11), a mid-foot portion or midpart or waist (12) and a forepart (13) wherein the heel (2) provides a heel tread surface (24) and the outsole (3) provides an out sole tread surface (34), said tread surfaces (24, 34) comprised in a tread plane, and said outsole (3) further comprising an outsole midpart (waist) surface (35), wherein said outsole midpart (waist) surface (35) is disposed between said tread surfaces and is substantially offset (upwardly) from the tread plane, more particularly across a significant distance, such as corresponding to a length of the backpart (11);

• • outsole (3) optionally comprises a heel portion (31) having a thickness t.sh and comprises a forefoot sole portion (33) having a thickness t.sf, and an arch or mid-foot sole portion (32) providing said arch surface (35)—

In FIG. 3 is shown in detail Heel (2) which comprises a heel block (e.g. comprising a monolithic solid or hollow block or a laminar block comprising a plurality of heel lifts (22)) spanning the shoe between a lateral side thereof and a medial side thereof and comprising said heel tread surface (24) and an opposing surface offset from the shoe face of the tread plane, said surfaces spaced apart by a height H.h, and by a substantially continuous sidewall i.e. (distinct from a wedge variety of shoe including a flat wedge such as a sandle or trainer) a classic low heel men's or women's dress or office variety of shoe and FIG. 4 illustrates an assembly method and stitching herein of footwear of FIG. 1 in cross section side view.

H.h or (H.h+t.sh) is greater than t.sf, for example is in a range from 2 t.sf to 5 t.sf or 6 t.sf i.e. the shoe is of the low-heel variety, and distinct from the medium to high heel, flat and wedge varieties

Insole footbed face (46) for supporting a wearer's foot comprises an optional heel insole portion (corresponding to backpart 11) having a thickness t.ih * and providing a heel footbed face (41), an arch or mid-foot or waist portion (corresponding to waist 12) having a thickness t.fm and providing an arch or mid-foot footbed face (42) and a forefoot portion (corresponding to forepart 13) having a thickness t.if * and providing a forefoot bed surface (43),

With heel insole portion present t.if is greater than t.ih, for example is in a range from 1.5 t.ih to .fh

and H.h+t.ih is substantially equal to t.sf+t.if or

(H.h+t.sh)+t.ih is substantially equal to t.sf+t.if.

Advantageously t.if is equal to the height Hh of the heel (2). This gives an accurate measure for ensuring parallelism within the shoe.

In embodiments the insole is contoured for example to conform to the arch and edges of the foot. In embodiments the heel footbed (4), more particularly insole (4) backpart portion comprises least thickness at a point-of-heel (41), more particularly where the point-of-heel corresponds to the location of the lowest point of the heel and/or the centre of load of a wearer's foot. In embodiments the sole (3) portion, more particularly footbed (4) forepart portion comprises least thickness at a point of tread (43), more particularly the point of tread corresponds to the location of articulation of the wearer's foot, such as the metatarsophalangeal joint (MTP), metatarsal head such as 2^nd and/or 3^rd metatarsal head or the lowest point of the forefoot and/or the line of spring. In embodiments t.hf is footbed thickness at the point-of-heel (41). In embodiments t.if is footbed thickness at the treadline (43).

The zero-drop shoe as claimed, provides for enclosing of a wearer's foot with “zero-drop” between point-of-heel (41) and point of tread (43), more particularly wherein a line or plane containing the point-of-heel and point of tread is parallel to a line or plane containing the heel tread surface (24) and outsole tread surface (34). In embodiments therefore a line or plane containing point (41) and point (43) is parallel to a line or plane containing the heel tread surface (24) and outsole tread surface (34).

Suitably the heel (2) comprises a width W.h, spanning the heel between a lateral side thereof and a medial side thereof. W.h has a greatest width W.hmax, for example corresponding to a line including a point-of-heel (21). Suitably the arch outsole portion (32) comprises a width W.sm spanning the midfoot between a lateral side thereof and a medial side thereof. W.sm has a minimum width W.smmin, for example corresponding to a highest point of the arch of a wearer's foot. In embodiments W.hmax is greater than W.smmin.

In embodiments the zero-drop shoe herein is a dress/office/formal shoe and is characterised by classic looks and clean lines.

A feature of such shoes is a waisted mid-shoe, wherein the sole of the mid-shoe is waisted compared to the heel and the sole of the forefoot.

This is made possible by the natural arch of the foot, whereby the arch is elevated to the medial side of the foot, with regard to the heel and forefoot. The upper is shaped to be drawn in below the foot at the arch, and the sole is trimmed or recessed. This gives a very elegant and clean line.

In prior art zero-drop dress/formal shoes, a “tromp d'oeil” effect is used whereby the heel is dropped to the level of the forefoot, by recessing the heel portion of the footbed within a heel of the shoe, at the same elevation as the footbed at the forefoot. However this lowers the arch of the foot below the normal position of the arch portion of the sole. A further tromp d'oeil effect provides a sole arch at the medial and lateral edges of the shoe, but recesses the footbed within the sole arch along the central line of the foot. The shoe has the appearance of a dress shoe but the absence of a foot arch is apparent.

The wearer's foot is located below the usual position of an arch in the shoe, whereby the widest part of the midfoot is at the height of the apparent midfoot part of the sole, which prevents any waisting of the sole.

In contrast, the shoe herein provides classic waisting. In fact the elevation of the forefoot raises the arch of the wearer's foot above the usual level, whereby an even greater waisting may be achieved than can be achieved with class shoes. In embodiments, W.sm is at a minimum W.smmin and is equal to Wsm^B-B at a cross-section B-B taken through a base of the footbed (45) where it passes through a point-of-arch location (42). In embodiments Wsm^B-B is in the range 0.5 Whmax, for example 0.6 Whmax, 0.65 Whmax, 0.7 Whmax, 0.75 Whmax, 0.8 Whmax, 0.85 Whmax, 0.9 Whmax, or 0.95 Whmax to<Whmax, for example 0.99 Whmax or 0.95 Whmax or 0.9 Whmax or 0.85 Whmax.

In FIGS. 5A and 5C, left shoe bottom view—through heel and sole, are shown the waisting at different sections through the shoe, in plan view and in bottom view. FIG. 5C illustrates base view of a shoe herein through heel (2) and outsole (3) showing cut back welt at heel or backpart and in midfoot or waist and upper (5) cross-sections (B-B, C-C) and footbed (4) cross section (A-A). Contour B-B shows the ultra-waisting of the sole midfoot portion in embodiments herein corresponding to cross-section B-B shown in FIG. 5B, shoe side view. Contour C-C shows the classic waisting of the sole mid-foot portion at height of the footbed surface corresponding to cross section C-C shown in FIG. 5B. The greater width of the foot towards the top of the arch is shown by contour D-D, corresponding to cross section D-D shown in FIG. 5B.

As will be apparent this line D-D is the width of the foot which would be present at the elevation B-B in a tromp l'oeil prior art zero-drop shoe having upper surface of insole recessed within and below the top of the “heel” of the shoe, giving a very non-classic shaped shoe.

In FIGS. 6A and 6B is shown in Cross section and Side View the shoe having parts as shown in FIGS. 1 and 2

FIGS. 7A and 7B illustrate insole (4) before lasting, having parts as shown in FIG. 1, and FIG. 8 illustrates insole (4) blank and positioned on or attached to last or lasted and profiled at waist.

In FIGS. 9A, 9B and 9C are illustrated upper and parts having insole allowance (54) and lasting allowance (55). FIGS. 9B and 9C illustrate parts comprising vamp and quarter of upper of FIG. 9A having insole allowance (54) and lasting allowance (55) to upper. FIG. 9 illustrates vamp and quarter and upper having insole allowance (54) and lasting allowance (55).

In FIGS. 10A, 10B and 10C are illustrated assembly configurations as herein defined in lateral cross section of footwear herein including low drop insole insert and manufacturing insole depicting upper (5), welt (48), manufacturing insole (49), low drop insole (4) and outsole (3).

FIG. 10A illustrates a shoe having FIG. 4 construction wherein upper (5) is lasted about low drop insole (4) at insole allowance (54) and said lasting allowance (55) lasted below said insole (4) at said insole heel-to-outsole face (45) and stitched with lateral stitches (48) through welt (37) into a holdfast or gemband of said insole heel-to-outsole face (45). Vertical stitching (38) unites outsole (3) to welt (37).

In FIG. 10B, shoe has mass production technique wherein upper (5) is lasted about low drop insole insert (4) at insole allowance (54) and stitched (48) at lasting allowance (55) to manufacturing insole (49) through welt (37). Vertical stitching (38) unites outsole (3) to welt (37).

In FIG. 10C, shoe has turnshoe technique wherein upper (5) is lasted about low drop insole insert (4) at insole allowance (54) and stitched (48) at lasting allowance (55) to manufacturing insole (49) through welt (37).

Vertical stitching (38) unites outsole (3) to welt (37).

Methods for assembly or manufacture of a shoe herein are as known in the art. Suitably a method comprises forming an upper (5) about a footbed (4) herein, and attaching, e.g. stitching or pinning or stapling, the upper (5) to the base of the footbed (4); attaching (48) a welt (37) superimposed on the upper (5) outwardly of the footbed (4) and projecting radially therefrom ; and attaching the welt (37) to the sole (3) e.g. stitching (38), and attaching the heel (2) to the sole (3). Prior art zero drop shoes typically comprise a moulded heel and sole one-part unit which is glued or bonded to or co-formed with the shoe. Embodiments of the shoe herein are advantageously suited for assembly or manufacture in classical manner using traditional methods most notably by hand stitching.

In embodiments there is provided a novel footbed as defined herein, more particularly for use in the manufacture of a shoe herein, more particularly comprising backpart, waist and forepart portions or waist and forepart or forepart only. In embodiments there is provided a heel, sole or last for use in the manufacture of a shoe herein. A last may be any zero-drop preferably non-conforming last or may be a last configured for ultra-waisting or waisting as hereinbefore defined.

In embodiments a novel footbed herein is provided with difference in t.if and t.ih selected for a required heel elevation or height Hh.

Footbeds may be provided with a range of differences (t.if-t.ih).

An insole suitably has thickness t.if as hereinbefore defined corresponding to a traditional heel height Hh, such as in the range from 5 mm to 25 mm, for example approximately 5 mm, 7 mm, 8 mm, 9 mm, 10 mm, 12 mm, 15 mm or 20 mm. An insole suitably has thickness t.ih as hereinbefore defined corresponding to a traditional insole thickness such as in the range 1 mm to 4 mm or 5 mm, for example approximately 1 mm, 2 mm, 3 mm or 4 mm or 4.5 mm.

An insole herein is suitably contoured as known in the art of manufacture of orthopaedic insoles and the like.

An insole herein is suitably manufactured using materials and methods as known in the art for insoles. and the like.

Suitably, the forefoot sole portion (33) herein comprises a width W.sf defined between a lateral (or outside of body) and a medial (or inside of body) side thereof. In embodiments W.sf is greatest at a position on or forward of the treadline and/or MTP line, more particularly between the treadline and a toeline, for example being a line including the metatarsals or heads. In embodiments the shoe is a flared shoe and W.f^B-B, and an arch or mid-foot sole portion (32) providing said arch surface (35) and having a minimum width W.a^B-

In embodiments a shoe herein is a non-conforming shoe comprising a point (36) being the apex of the most forward part of the forefoot portion (13) of the shoe which is an extension of a medial line M. L including the point-of-heel (41, 31, 21) and the second metatarsal head or medial side of the treadline. This is illustrated in FIG. 5A wherein alternative apexes (36) are shown, being a maximally elongated apex, e.g. known as “winklepicker” style (65), a truncated elongated apex e.g. known as chisel-point (64), an oval shaped apex, e.g. known as “almond” (62) and a rounded, e.g. known as classic rounded (61). The shoes of these embodiments comprise a medial side of the forefoot portion (13) of the shoe which is parallel or close to parallel to the hereinbefore defined and in FIG. 5A illustrated medial line M.L. This has the advantage of non-conforming the toes of a wearer and in particular the 1^st metatarsal or big toe. In turn the adjacent toes of a wearer are not conformed but rather follow a natural line. As hereinbefore described, this is beneficial for numerous health reasons including direct and indirect effects of non-conforming footwear such as posture, bone deformation, bunions and other pressure conditions and the like. Accordingly the herein show is a non-conforming zero-drop shoe comprising a “flared” forefoot.

In embodiments the shoe herein comprises arch surface (35) which extends between a point at or towards the top of the heel block (2) and the tread surface (34) of the sole unit (3). The arch surface may extend with any desired cross section profile taken through a vertical plane including the medial line M.L, for example a descending profile such as a descending straight line, slide-shaped (corresponding to a child's slide), elongate offset S-shaped or wave-form profile, or rising and descending profile such as any of the aforementioned having an initial upward kick. A descending profile is preferred, particularly in the case of a lower heeled shoe.

The lower surface 45 of the footbed is suitably correspondingly profiled. Accordingly a footbed herein comprises an optionally contoured, heel portion (41) having a thickness t.ih corresponding to a traditional insole, and an optionally contoured forefoot portion (43) having a thickness t.if having a thickness corresponding to a traditional heel height, and having therebetween an optionally contoured arch portion (42) having progressively increasing thickness from heel portion to forefoot portion, the footbed optionally having a waisted midfoot portion (42) as hereinbefore defined and/or a flared forefoot portion (43) as hereinbefore defined.

An arch surface may be profiled in a transverse direction across the treadline, for example may include a ridge or other ornamentation extending along the vertical plane including the medial line M.L, or may be rounded at or towards the lateral side and medial side.

A shoe herein may comprise any shape of heel block as known in the art, for example a D-shaped cross-section with straight or concave or convex heel seat (25). Side edges may be substantially vertical or angled off-vertical for example as illustrated in FIGS. 2A and 3.

Claims

1. Low drop footwear comprising an upper having an outside face and an inside face, a low drop insole having a footbed face and a heel-to-outsole face, and further comprising a heel and an outsole,

said footwear having an outside and an inside, said outside comprising said outside face of said upper, together with said heel and outsole and said inside providing an enclosure for enclosing a wearer's foot and comprising said inside face of said upper and said footbed face of said low drop insole;

wherein said heel comprises a heel tread surface and said outsole comprises an outsole forefoot having an outsole tread surface, said heel tread surface and said outsole tread surface comprised in a tread plane, and having an outsole midfoot therebetween;

said low drop insole comprising a backpart and a forepart and a midpart therebetween, said insole backpart comprising a point-of-heel at said footbed face thereof and said insole forepart comprising a point-of-treadline at said footbed face thereof, wherein said insole footbed face provides a real heel-to-toe drop D.r between said point-of-heel and said point-of-treadline, relative to said tread plane, wherein D.r is in a range of from zero drop to 15 mm drop;

and wherein said low drop insole comprises an insole backpart thickness at point-of-heel t.ih and comprises an insole forepart thickness at point-of-treadline t.it wherein t.ih is less than t.it,

and said heel comprises a heel height, in line with said point-of-heel, H.h and said outsole comprises an outsole forefoot thickness, in line with said point-of-treadline, t.o, wherein H.h is greater than t.o,

wherein a difference in t.ih and t.it is less than or equal to a difference in H.h and t.o;

and wherein said upper, heel and outsole provide an enclosure enclosing said low drop insole,

whereby said low drop insole extends (upwardly) within said upper inside face for said insole thickness or at least part thereof.

2. Footwear as claimed in claim 1, which provides an illusion or an outward appearance of heeled footwear having heel-to-toe drop greater than D.r.

3. Footwear as claimed in claim 1, wherein a difference in t.ih and t.it is up to 15 mm less than or equal to a difference in H.h and t.o.

4. Footwear as claimed in claim 1, wherein a difference in elevation of said point-of-heel above said tread plane and elevation of said point-of-treadline above said tread plane is in the range of from zero up to 15 mm.

5. Footwear as claimed in claim 1, wherein said insole thickness t.it is less than said heel height H.h, or said insole thickness t.ih is less than said outsole forefoot thickness t.o or a combination thereof, wherein said difference or said combined difference is from zero up to 15 mm.

6. Footwear as claimed in claim 1, which is zero drop wherein said insole thickness t.it is equal to or intentionally equal to said heel height H.h, and t.ih is equal to or intentionally equal to said outsole forefoot thickness t.o.

7. Footwear as claimed in claim 1, wherein a line or plane containing the point-of-heel and the point-of-treadline at the insole footbed face is longitudinally inclined to said tread plane by an amount corresponding to a heel-to-toe drop of up to 15 mm.

8. Footwear as claimed in claim 1, wherein said footwear is zero drop and a line or plane containing the point-of-heel and the point-of-treadline at the insole footbed face is parallel to said tread plane or intentionally parallel thereto.

9. Footwear as claimed in claim 1, wherein said heel comprises a heel block comprising an outwardly opposing heel face to said heel tread surface

and said outsole further comprises an outsole midfoot arch surface, disposed between said tread surfaces and substantially offset (upwardly) from the tread plane, providing a non-tread face, said forefoot and said midfoot comprising an outwardly opposing outsole face to said outsole tread face and said outsole non-tread face, said opposing heel face and said opposing outsole face comprising an edge profile presenting an illusionary heel-to-toe drop D.i in a range of from 5 mm to 25 mm greater than D.r.

10. Footwear as claimed in claim 1, wherein said insole midpart has a thickness t.im wherein t.if is greater than t.ih and wherein t.im is a value increasing between t.ih and t.if.

11. Footwear as claimed in claim 1, which is a dress shoe.

12. Footwear as claimed in claim 1, wherein said upper comprises a lasting allowance, being an amount of material excess to that enclosing the foot of a wearer for securing said upper to said insole, wherein said lasting allowance includes an insole allowance being an amount of material for enclosing said low drop insole.

13. Footwear as claimed in claim 12, wherein said insole allowance in a forepart or vamp part of or for said upper is an amount of greater than or equal to said insole forepart thickness t.it, and said insole allowance in a midpart or quarter part of or for said upper is an amount of greater than or equal to said insole midpart thickness t.im wherein t.im is a value increasing between t.ih and t.if.

14. Footwear as claimed in claim 12, comprising said lasting allowance of said upper overlapping an edge of said low drop insole upon said heel-to-outsole face of said insole, optionally together with a rand or welt thereof, and united to said low drop insole or said rand or welt by any one or more of stitching, glueing and bonding, and comprising said outsole and said heel secured by any one or more of fastenings, stitching, glueing and bonding, thereby enclosing said insole.

15. Footwear as claimed in claim 12, comprising a lasting allowance of said upper overlapping said low drop insole upon said footbed face thereof, and united thereto by any one or more of stitching, glueing and bonding, and comprising said outsole secured by any one or more of stitching, glueing and bonding, thereby enclosing said insole.

16. Footwear as claimed in claim 1, further comprising a manufacturing insole, secured to said upper optionally together with a rand or welt therefor or thereof, at a lasting allowance of said upper, said lasting allowance including a low drop insole allowance as herein defined, wherein said low drop insole is a removable insert configured to overly said manufacturing insole at said heel-to-outsole face of said low drop insole, thereby enclosed by said manufacturing insole and said upper.

17. Footwear as claimed in claim 1, further comprising a manufacturing insole, secured to said upper wherein said low drop insole is a removable insert configured to overly said manufacturing insole at said heel-to-outsole face of said low drop insole, thereby enclosed by said manufacturing insole and said upper, wherein said footwear is a turnshoe, having said manufacturing insole secured to said upper at an outer face of a lasting allowance of said upper, optionally together with or about a rand or welt therefor or thereof, said lasting allowance including a low drop insole allowance as herein defined, providing said enclosure as defined in claim 1 inside out, turning, and securing said outsole to said manufacturing insole or welt or rand and inserting said low drop insole.

18. Footwear as claimed in claim 1, which is configured for replacing of a heel top piece, being a wearing piece providing said heel tread surface and for replacing of said outsole, by removal of a heel piece or outsole and securing in a replacement heel top piece or outsole in place thereof by any one or more of glueing or bonding or stitching, whereby the inside of the footwear remains intact.

19. A part of footwear as claimed in claim 1, selected form an insole comprising a backpart and a forepart and a midpart therebetween, said insole backpart comprising a point-of-heel at said footbed face thereof and said insole forepart comprising a point-of-treadline at said footbed face thereof, wherein said insole footbed face provides a real heel-to-toe drop D.r between said point-of-heel and said point-of-treadline, relative to a tread plane therefor, wherein D.r is in a range of from zero drop to 15 mm drop;

and wherein said insole comprises an insole backpart thickness at point-of-heel t.ih and comprises an insole forepart thickness at point-of-treadline t.it wherein t.ih is less than t.it and from an upper or a pattern therefor or part thereof such as a vamp or quarter thereof, wherein said upper comprises a lasting allowance, being an amount of material excess to that enclosing the foot of a wearer for securing said upper to said insole, wherein said lasting allowance includes an insole allowance being an amount of material for enclosing said insole.

20. A method for the manufacture of footwear as claimed in claim 1.