Abstract: A workpiece diverter station is disclosed. The workpiece diverter station includes: a base frame; an X-direction workpiece transporter subassembly; a Z-direction lift assembly; and a Y-direction workpiece transporter subassembly. The X-direction workpiece transporter subassembly is axially fixedly supported with respect to the base frame in a Z-direction. The Z-direction lift assembly is supported by the base frame. The Y-direction workpiece transporter subassembly is connected to the Z-direction lift assembly and is axially movably supported with respect to the base frame in the Z-direction. A portion of a workpiece diverter station is also disclosed. A method for operating a workpiece diverter station is also disclosed. A method for servicing a portion of a workpiece diverter station is also disclosed.

Abstract: A sewing machine with an adjusting structure capable of controlling a swing center of a swing arm includes an adjusting apparatus and corresponding structures cooperating with the adjusting apparatus. The adjusting apparatus is provided on the pivotal portion with a sliding groove and a sliding block that can horizontally slide with respect to each other. Between the sliding groove and the sliding block are further provided an adjusting bolt and an elastic element. By rotating the adjusting bolt, the relative position between the swinging center around which the whole swing arm pivots and the whole structure of the swing arm can be changed in the horizontal direction accurately and conveniently, thus assuredly adjusting the start point of the travel of the presser foot, achieving the objective of accursedly adjusting position of the travel sensing apparatus.

Abstract: The sewing machine includes a presser body, a presser frame, a button holding device including a fixed portion and a sliding portion, a position detecting device including a sliding base attached to the presser frame and a sliding member coupled to the presser body and slidable with respect to the sliding base, a button diameter detecting switch, and a control device. The control device obtains, from the position detecting device, a shift amount of the presser body from a sewing start position when the button diameter detecting switch detects that a sewing operation is carried by a length that corresponds to a diameter of a button, and controls a drive of a sewing needle and the feeding of the workpiece such that a buttonhole stitch corresponding to the diameter of the button is formed.

Abstract: A button-hole earn is mounted on a pattern selection cam shaft for mounting a pattern selection cam, the pattern selection cam shaft provided independently of a pattern cam shaft provided with a needle swing cam group. The rotation of a sewing machine main shaft causes rotation of a drive gear which in turn rotates a first follower gear in engagement with the drive gear and a second follower gear engaged with the first follower gear. Thus, the rotation of the first follower gear causes rotation of the needle swing cam group whereas the rotation of the second follower gear causes rotation of the button-hole cam. Thus, a pattern selected among a plurality of patterns by a pattern selection dial is generated to form button-hole stitches selected by the pattern selection dial.

Abstract: The sewing machine includes a presser body, a presser frame, a button holding device including a fixed portion and a sliding portion, a position detecting device including a sliding base attached to the presser frame and a sliding member coupled to the presser body and slidable with respect to the sliding base, a button diameter detecting switch, and a control device. The control device obtains, from the position detecting device, a shift amount of the presser body from a sewing start position when the button diameter detecting switch detects that a sewing operation is carried by a length that corresponds to a diameter of a button, and controls a drive of a sewing needle and the feeding of the workpiece such that a buttonhole stitch corresponding to the diameter of the button is formed.

Abstract: A buttonhole sewing machine comprises a buttonhole cutting device which includes a knife and at least one cutting block that cooperates with the knife. Provision is made for a cutting drive for motion of the knife and the cutting block relative to each other by variable cutting force, the cutting drive comprising several linear drives which are connected in parallel and pneumatically actuated selectively.

Abstract: A buttonhole sewing machine comprises a buttonhole cutting device which includes a knife and a cutting block unit with several cutting blocks, one of which at a time being movable into a position of cooperation with the knife. The cutting blocks are mounted on an anvil that is stationarily joined to the sewing machine. The knife is movable from above against the anvil.

Abstract: A method is disclosed where a knot is formed in chain-stitching, and a first loop formed by a stitch to an article to be sewn, two stitches ahead of a final stitch, is drawn through a second loop which is formed by a stitch one stitch ahead of the final stitch, whereby a knot where the first loop is fastened by the second loop is formed, such that a third loop is inserted through the second loop and is then cut.

Abstract: A knot is formed in chain-stitching, and a first loop, formed by a stitch to an article to be sewn two stitches ahead of a final stitch, is drawn through a second loop which is formed by a stitch one stitch ahead of the final stitch, whereby a knot is formed where the first loop is fastened by the second loop, such that a third loop is inserted through the second loop and is then cut.

Abstract: A looper drive assembly for a buttonhole sewing machine includes a long arm which is driven by a double cam, followers and an oscillating plate at one end and the arm generally reciprocates longitudinally. V-shaped plates are pivoted at a second end of the arm. Ends of the V-shaped plates are connected to rocking links which carry the looper needles. The links are pivoted on shafts and support the V-shaped plates and the second end of the arm. As the arm reciprocates, the V-shaped plates swing, pull and push lower ends of the link and oscillate the links around shafts for alternating engagement of the looping needles with thread carried through a fabric by a main needle.

Abstract: Bight stitches at sides and bar tack stitches at ends of a buttonhole site are formed by periodically oscillating a needle bar holder over lesser and greater angles while a needle is in an up position. The needle bar holder is fixed to a horizontal transverse shaft. One end of a long, generally vertical arm is clamped to the shaft, and a generally horizontal link is pivoted to a lower end of the arm and to an adjustment slide in an upper arm of the inverted Y-shaped follower plate. The Y-shaped follower plate is pivoted on a central horizontal pivot. A double cam engages cam follower rollers oppositely extending from lower ends of the Y-shaped follower plate. Periodically, while the needle is up, the cams move the follower plate back and forth.

Abstract: A apparatus for forming a knot where a knot is formed in chain-stitching. In the method, a first loop is formed by a stitch to an article to be sewn, two stitches ahead of a final stitch, is drawn through a second loop which is formed by a stitch one stitch ahead of the final stitch, whereby a knot where the first loop is fastened by the second loop is formed, such that a third loop is inserted through the second loop and is then cut. The sewing machine including a single needle and a rotary looper and including a yarn feed adjusting device for adjusting a degree of feed of a yarn to the single needle. The yarn feed adjusting device sets a fed volume of the yarn during formation of the second loop to a value larger than that of the final or third loop and the first loop.

Abstract: A counter-weighted eccentric or crank is clamped to an end of the upper drive shaft. A link is pivoted between the eccentric and an end of a short leg on a V-shaped rocker. The base of the V-shaped rocker is pivoted on a fixed pin. The long arm of the V-shaped rocker is connected to a needle bar to drive the needle bar up and down. The movement of the needle bar carries a main needle and thread through a workpiece to make stitches in the cloth.

Abstract: A double cam drive operates on a main drive shaft of a buttonhole sewing machine is disclosed. Three double cams are arranged sequentially on the main drive shaft. A first double cam operates a looper mechanism, a second double cam drives a feeder, and a third double cam drives a needle bar mount for operating a bite mechanism to deflect a needle housing to make side stitches and tacks. Each double cam has a cam collar and two generally-circular concentric cams. Each cam of a double cam is positioned off-center on the cam collar with one cam positioned opposite the other. The three double cams have mounted collars at axial ends for securing the double cams to the shaft. Spacers are positioned between any two adjacent double cams for creating the proper spacing between the cams. A follower plate is pivoted on a stub shaft and has two rollers. The first roller contacts an outer surface of the first double cam and the second roller contacts an outside surface of the second double cam.

Abstract: A main cam of a buttonhole sewing machine has four cams connected together in an assembly which includes a drive disk switch spring. A worm hub and a drive disk are connected together. A shifter mechanism has right and left shifter arms and springs which periodically capture and release the drive disk switch spring. The drive disk and worm hub are driven by a worm gear on the main drive shaft. One of the shifter arms holds the switch spring in a detent, disengaging the switch spring from the drive disk while the buttonhole sewing machine sews bight stitches along a first side of the buttonhole site in a workpiece. The workpiece is clamped between a clamping plate and a clamp. The clamping plate moves in steps while the needle is up. When the clamping plate reaches the end of the intended buttonhole a shift plate is moved, moving the shift arms, releasing the switch spring from the first switch arm and positioning the second switch arm for capturing the switch spring.

Abstract: A quick feeding shaft is rotatably supported at a bed of a perforating sewing machine. A quick feeding shaft rotatable in one direction and has one end coaxially connected to a magnetic clutch shaft and the other end coaxially connected to one end of a quick feeding shaft body provided with a worm. A magnetic clutch is secured coaxially to the magnetic clutch shaft and operatively connects the magnetic clutch shaft to the quick feeding shaft. A pattern wheel shaft is disposed at right angles to the quick feeding shaft and has a pattern wheel for feeding a sewn cloth quickly. A worm wheel coaxially secured thereto at an intermediate portion thereof to mesh with the worm. The worm wheel and the worm form a gear mechanism for transmitting the rotational driving force of the quick feeding shaft to the pattern wheel shaft.

Abstract: A system and semi-automated method for folding and fusing limp strips of fabric to form a semi-finished placket and for assembly of the placket together with an unfinished shirt. The system comprises a folder apparatus, a fuser apparatus, and a sewer apparatus capable of applying reversed "L"-shaped pattern, to the semi-finished placket-unfinished shirt combination.

Abstract: A device and method for positioning an outer embroidery hoop on a framing table includes a hoop attachment having a hoop receiver which is adjustably mounted on a framing table. The hoop receiver can be released and slid along the upper table top surface and rotated as desired for infinite positioning. A side hoop attachment is also provided for jacket hoops and the framing table top can be removed and replaced with smaller or larger table tops as needed.

Abstract: Disclosed is a button-hole sewing machine which includes an electric motor for driving the sewing machine; a machine body including a bed for holding a workpiece in cooperation with a piece clamping means; a stitch forming device for working button-holes in the work piece and including mechanism for driving a needle bar which supports a needle, a looper-spreader mechanism for driving a looper and a spreader, and a turning mechanism for turning the needle bar, the looper and the spreader. The needle bar driving mechanism includes a vertical reciprocation mechanism and a needle lateral and an arm shaft for driving the up/down moving mechanism.

Abstract: There is provided an automatic shirt cuff manufacturing unit comprising an overcast stitching machine, a buttonhole forming machine and a button sewing machine. The unit includes means for conveying the cuff to the overcast stitching machine, means for removing the cuff from the overcast stitching machine, means for positioning at least one of the ends of the cuff with respect to one of the working heads of the buttonhole forming and button sewing machines, the working heads of said machines being arranged opposite one another, means for orienting the cuff so that it assumes the proper orientation, or an orientation at 180.degree. from it, under the working heads, means for bringing the cuff under said heads while maintaining it in correct position, and means for removing the cuff from the machines.

Abstract: An article is clamped in a predetermined position on a support, which is movable along a reciprocating path by a stepping motor. This movement of the support positions selected and spaced portions of the article at a fixed location at which a fastener element is attached to an edge of the article. The movement of the stepping motor is controlled by a computer program whereby the selected and spaced portions of the article are spaced from each other as desired.

Abstract: A mechanism for releasably securing a workholder to the automatically controlled carriage of a sewing machine during the sewing machine cycle. The mechanism includes a pair of coacting connector means operative to fixedly couple the workholder and the automatically controlled carriage together along with mechanism for automatically uncoupling the coacting connectors and propelling the workholder from the carriage at the completion of the sewing operation.

Abstract: Two carriage systems, X and Y, are provided with the X carriage system being carried by the Y carriage system. Each system includes a carriage which via two sets of rollers is capable of movement along a guide rail set. Flex hinges are provided in each carriage to seat the rollers in the guide rails. The hinges are generally rigid in a first plane and flexible in a second such that the carriage is stiff yet the distance between the rollers can vary to compensate for absolute distance changes in the rails, due, for example, to high or low spots in the roller contacting surface.

Abstract: A process for producing pockets of a strip type with a slide fastener, comprising conducting a continuous slide-fastener tape towards the sewing area of a strip-pocket sewing machine, separating portions of the tape, with the teeth of the slide fastener tape located towards the outside, sewing the tape simultaneously on the main fabric and on the pouch of the pocket itself on said fabric, cutting said pouch and fabric centrally between the seams as the seams are formed, and cutting at the end of the sewing and cutting operation two V-shaped notches in the main fabric and in the pouch at a place corresponding to the two end portions of said cut and apparatus for carrying out the process.

Abstract: A system for controlling the starting end of a thread is disclosed in which air is provided via a conduit and nozzle to a point adjacent the needle and above the presser foot of the sewing machine. The arrangement is such that the air is controlled by a valve whose operation is in turn controlled by the position of the presser foot so that air is supplied only when the presser foot is raised and the sewing machine is in a stopped position.

Abstract: A device for feeding materials in a feed direction for operations thereon, such as sewing buttons or buttonholes, either directly on the material or onto separate strips of material which are fed thereto. The device includes means for clamping the material which is to be sewn so that it does not shift as it is moved through a stitching area. A movable carriage is mounted on a support frame for movement backwardly and forwardly in respect to the direction of material feeding, and it carries a lower endless conveyor arranged beneath and cooperable with an upper endless conveyor so that the endless belt stretched thereon may be biased together during the feeding operation so that the material is clamped along its entire length as it is fed with the movement of the carriage. The apparatus includes a separate clamping device for clamping the forward edge of the material at the end thereof which is beyond the sewing needle operating area and this is also movable with the carriage.

Abstract: So-called raised buttonholes are sewn on a double-lock-stitch sewing machine with the fabric workpiece turned face down on the stitchplate of the sewing machine and the upper-thread tension being such that the interlocking loops of the upper and lower threads lie upon the downwardly facing side of the workpiece. According to the invention, the upper-thread tension at the end of a buttonhole-stitching cycle for the fastening stitch is increased above the lower-thread tension temporarily so that the interlocking loops of the upper and lower threads during this last fastening stitch lie within the thickness of the material or on the upper face of the downwardly turned workpiece.

Abstract: A method of and apparatus for the sewing of a succession of stitchgroups on a workpiece and for the feeding of a new workpiece into sewing position, e.g. for producing buttonholes on shirtfronts. The buttonholes are formed by linearly displacing a buttonhole stitching machine stepwise relative to a clamped edge of a fabric workpiece, and a second clamp adjacent the first is provided to retain a second workpiece in position. When the first row of buttonholes is completed upon movement of the machine in one direction, the fabric workpiece, which has been buttonholed, is released, the second fabric is engaged and brought into position, and the sewing machine is displaced in the opposite direction to form a respective row of buttonholes on the new fabric.

Abstract: A device for varying the pocket length provided on sewing machines for making welted pockets comprising a bed, a standard, an arm, a head, two groups with adjustable positioning carrying a mounting for driving valves and a mounting for one of two patch turners, frames for carrying the valves and the patch turner movable relative to the groups, pneumatic cylinders fixed to the groups to move the frames to two extreme positions, corresponding to the two extreme operating positions of the pneumatic cylinders and lock blocks positioned intermediate the extreme positions to stop movement of the frames intermediate the extreme positions. The lock blocks are fixed to the end of a piston rod mounted in a cylinder.

Abstract: An improvement in a logic controlled sewing machine which permits an operator to vary by electronic means ornamental pattern bight and feed, manual stitch control, or individually control forward and reverse feed to achieve, for example, an optimum balanced buttonhole or ornamental variations to patterns. Operator influenced means are effective to signal the logic to apply a holding signal to FET switches, maintaining the FET switch in the conductive state. Closing of the FET switch inserts the wiper of a rheostat in bypass arrangement in the feedback circuit of an operational amplifier between a digital-to-analog converter for feed or bight and, respectively, a feed or bight servo amplifier system. By changing the magnitude of the resistance in the feedback circuit of the operational amplifier, the gain may be altered, thereby to control the signal to the feed or bight linear actuator for variation of stitch length or pattern width, respectively.

Abstract: A system for manufacturing curved shirt plackets with buttonholes includes the steps of moving curved placket blanks in sequence from the top of a bundle to a positioning station, positioning the plackets for feeding to a buttonhole sewing machine, intermittently feeding the plackets to a buttonhole sewing machine and turning the plackets as necessary to align the lengths of the buttonholes across the length of the curved placket blanks, and transferring the plackets to a cutting station where they are cut in half and stacked in bundles of buttonhole halves and button halves.

Abstract: A device for producing piped openings in flat base material, for instance welted pockets, comprising first workpiece clamping means for securing a workpiece to a workplate, piping patch holding and folding means, sewing machines for sewing said folded piping patch on said workpiece with two stitch rows cutting means for cutting a slit and V-shaped tab slits at the ends of said slit, and a second workpiece clamping means which is displacable into said first workpiece clamping means and said piping patch holding and folding means, to receive said flat base material together with said folded piping patch and to feed them through said sewing machines and said cutting means.

Abstract: This disclosure is directed to a piped opening for use in a garment and an apparatus for making the opening. The piped opening comprises corresponding die-cut slits or cuts formed in the front and facing portion of a garment with the flap or flaps defined thereby being reversely folded inwardly of the respective front and facing portions to define a corresponding opening therein. An edging patch having a complementary slit or cut and reversely folded patch flaps is secured to one of the portions with the patch flaps positioned contiguous to corresponding flaps of the adjacent portion to form a partially piped opening. The front and facing portions are then reversely folded to dispose the edging patch therebetween with the respective openings defined in each, disposed in coaxial alignment. The front and facing portions are then secured.The apparatus for locating and forming an opening in a garment, e.g.