SOLID COSMETIC COMPOSTION COMPRISING A POLYESTER

Abstract

The present application relates to a cosmetic composition in cast form, in a pot or as a stick, comprising at least one polyester that can be obtained by reaction: of at least one polyol comprising 3 to 6 hydroxyl groups; of at least one non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid; of at least one aromatic monocarboxylic acid, and of at least one polycarboxylic acid comprising at least 2 carboxyl groups COOH and/or a cyclic anhydride of such a polycarboxylic acid. The application also relates to a method of cosmetic treatment using said composition, as well as the use of this composition for the care or the make-up of the skin or of the lips.

Description

The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions comprising polymers of the polyester class, as well as to their use notably in lipsticks.

The compositions according to the invention can be applied to substrates such as the skin of the face or of the body, the lips and keratinous materials such as the hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows and the nails.

There are many cosmetic compositions for which properties of gloss of the deposited film, after application on keratinous materials (skin, lips, integumentary appendages), are desired. We may mention for example lipsticks, nail varnish or also certain hair-care products.

In order to obtain such a result, it is possible to combine particular raw materials, notably lanolins, with so-called glossy oils, such as the polybutenes, which however have a high viscosity; or esters of acid or of fatty alcohol with a high number of carbons; or certain vegetable oils; or esters resulting from the partial or total esterification of an aliphatic compound hydroxylated with an aromatic acid, as described in patent application EP1097699.

It is also known to combine lanolins with polyesters obtained by sequential reaction of castor oil with isostearic acid and then with succinic acid, as described in U.S. Pat. No. 6,342,527.

To improve the gloss of the deposited film, as well as its durability, it has also been proposed to use esters resulting from the condensation of a polyol with a carboxylic acid of the “neo” type, notably in FR2838049.

We may also mention EP1457201, which describes a composition combining a polyester of triglycerides of hydroxylated carboxylic acids and an oil of low molecular weight selected from the polybutylenes, hydrogenated polyisobutylenes, polydecenes hydrogenated or not, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidones, esters of linear fatty acids, hydroxylated esters, esters of fatty alcohols or of C₂₄-C₂₈ branched fatty acids, silicone oils and/or oils of vegetable origin.

Patent application EP0792637 describes a composition combining an aromatic ester and a polymer of the polybutene or polyisobutene type.

Patent application EP1155687 describes a method comprising incorporating, in an oily phase comprising a cosmetically acceptable oil, an organopolysiloxane possessing at least 2 groups capable of forming hydrogen bonds.

However, these compositions and combinations, when they are in the form of a stick or poured in a pot, have a relatively low gloss compared with liquid or paste compositions.

The polymers used within the scope of the present invention are preferably alkyd resins, which constitute a particular class of polyesters, being the product of reaction of polyols and polycarboxylic acids, generally modified with unsaturated fatty acids, such as oleic acid, or with unsaturated oils, for example soya oil or castor oil.

Cosmetic compositions comprising polyesters are described in the prior art. In particular we may mention document FR2562793 which describes the use of sucrose benzoate in combination with toluene sulphonamide formaldehyde resins; or document JP61246113 which describes the use of sucrose benzoate in combination with a glycidyl versatate ester modified alkyd resin. We may also mention WO2002243676 which describes the use of a neopentyl glycol trimellitate adipate polyester resin in combination with copolymers of alkyl acrylates and methacrylates. There is also JP58023614 which describes the use of a modified polyester obtained by condensation of pentaerythritol with cis-4-cyclohexene-1,2-dicarboxylic acid and castor oil fatty acids, then reaction with a dioxirane compound of the epoxy resin type; or JP54011244 which describes the use of a modified polyester obtained by condensation of dipentaerythritol with cyclohexane-1,2-dicarboxylic acid and castor oil fatty acids then reaction with a dioxirane compound of the epoxy resin type.

The polyesters used within the scope of the present invention have a structure that is different from that of the known polyesters. Moreover, when they are formulated in combination with particular ingredients, they make it possible to achieve cosmetic properties equal to or even better than the performance already obtained with the known polyesters.

The aim of the present invention is to propose cast cosmetic compositions, for which the level of gloss reaches, for the first time, that of a cosmetic composition in the form of a paste or of a liquid such as a gloss.

The applicant discovered, surprisingly and unexpectedly, that certain polyesters lead to solid cosmetic compositions, cast or in the form of a stick, which display, once they are applied, a gloss that is as high as the gloss obtained in the prior art with liquid compositions.

In the case of lipsticks for example, a stick cannot give, at equal colour shade, as glossy an effect as a paste gloss.

The present invention therefore relates to a solid cosmetic composition, notably cast, comprising at least one polyester that can be obtained by reaction:

• • of at least one polyol comprising 3 to 6 hydroxyl groups;
  • of at least one non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid;
  • of at least one aromatic monocarboxylic acid, and
  • of at least one polycarboxylic acid comprising at least 2 carboxyl groups COOH and/or a cyclic anhydride of said polycarboxylic acid.

The present invention also relates to a cast cosmetic composition containing a benzoic acid/isophthalic acid/isostearic acid/pentaerythritol polymer, a benzoic acid/isophthalic acid/stearic acid/pentaerythritol polymer, or a mixture thereof.

“Hydrocarbon” means a radical or a compound formed essentially, i.e. constituted, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally of oxygen, nitrogen, sulphur, or phosphorus atoms, and not containing a silicon or fluorine atom. It can contain alcohol, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups. Preferably, the adjective “hydrocarbon” denotes a radical or a compound constituted solely of atoms of carbon and of hydrogen, and of oxygen.

“Branched” means a compound comprising at least one branching containing at least two carbon atoms. The polyisobutenes are not branched in the sense of the present invention. More generally, the number of branchings of a molecule corresponds to the number of side groups containing at least one carbon atom and branched on the main chain of the molecule, the main chain corresponding to the longest carbon chain of the molecule (see Organic Chemistry, S. H. Pine, 5th Edition; McGraw-Hill, chapter 3).

The composition of the invention can be in the form of paste, of solid, or more or less viscous cream. It can be an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion, a rigid or flexible anhydrous gel. In particular, it is cast as a stick or in a dish, and more especially in the form of a rigid anhydrous gel, notably an anhydrous stick.

Hardness of the Composition

The hardness of the composition can range from 30 to 300 g, notably from 50 to 250 g, preferably from 70 to 230 g, for example from 100 to 200 g, notably from 150 to 175 g. These values reflect the texture of a solid composition, notably that is liable to disintegrate on keratinous materials, whether it is cast in a pot or cast in the form of a stick.

The hardness of a stick can be measured by the “cheese wire” method, which comprises cutting a lipstick of 12.7 mm and measuring the hardness at 20° C., using a DFGHS 2 dynamometer from the company Indelco-Chatillon with displacement at a rate of 100 mm/minute. It is expressed as the shearing force (expressed in grams) required to cut a stick under these conditions.

According to this method the hardness of a composition according to the invention ranges notably from 50 to 300 g, preferably from 100 to 250 g and for example from 150 to 230 g.

The hardness of the composition according to the invention can also be measured by means of a texturometer, which shows the change in resistance to deformation of the composition as a function of the displacement of a spindle in a sample of said composition.

The texturometer measures the force of resistance to deformation of the composition once the spindle comes into contact with the sample. After reaching a programmed maximum depth L0 in the sample, the spindle returns to the starting point.

The hardness (expressed in gram or in newton) is equal to the value of resistance of the composition when the spindle is at the end of its travel, and the elasticity (expressed as percentage) is equal to the ratio of i) the distance L at which loss of contact occurs between the spindle and the sample during withdrawal of the spindle and ii) the distance L0. Loss of contact is reflected in nullification of the force of resistance of the composition on the spindle.

The texturometer used can notably be a Stable Micro System TAX-T2i® texturometer equipped with operating software of the type Texture Expert Exceed® fitted with a hemispherical plastic spindle P/0.5 HS Rheo's.

The parameters applied are advantageously as follows:

• • speed before contact: 0.1 mm.s⁻¹,
  • speed of displacement in the sample: 0.1 mm.s⁻¹,
  • speed of withdrawal: 0.1 mm.s⁻¹,
  • maximum depth L0: 1 mm.

The samples of composition are prepared by pouring, while hot, a sufficient amount of the composition to be tested, for example in a previously calibrated 100×15 mm Petri dish, to obtain a sample about 1 cm thick. The advantage of choosing this form of “packaging” is that it is of sufficient width to avoid any edge effect. Two Petri dishes are prepared in this way, and are left to stand for a minimum of 24 h at 20° C. before characterization.

At least three measurements are performed on each sample: one at the centre and the others located at equal distance from its centre and its edge.

The hardness is equal to the mean value of the measurements taken, with a minimum number of six.

More particularly, the hardness of the composition measured according to this method can vary from 30 g to 200 g, notably from 50 g to 190 g, especially from 70 to 175 g and more particularly from 100 g to 150 g.

Wet Gloss Index

The wet gloss index of a film of the composition according to the invention can be measured according to a method of evaluation that includes stages comprising, with the film illuminated by at least one light source:

• • application of a film of the composition on the lips
  • measurement of a first index representing the intensity of the non-diffused gloss of at least one portion of the film,
  • determination of a second index representing the non-uniformity of gloss of the film, i.e. the level of fragmentation of the observable zones of gloss
  • calculation of an index of perceived gloss from the first and second indices at least.

In one embodiment, measurement of the perceived gloss includes stages comprising:

• • acquiring, by polarimetric imaging, two images of keratinous materials, notably of lips, made up with a cosmetic product, one of them (C) in cross-polarized configuration and the other (P) in parallel-polarized configuration,
  • taking the difference of the two images to obtain a resultant image representing the light reflected non-diffusely by the surface of the film,
  • defining, on the resultant image (P−C), a region of interest for analysis, notably a rectangle including the lips,
  • generating a histogram of grey levels on the region of interest,
  • calculating a first index representing the average grey level of the lightest pixels, notably the last 0.5% of the histogram,
  • evaluating a second index representing the uniformity of gloss by visually scoring the resultant image (P−C) with the aid of an atlas or by image analysis by dividing the region of interest of the zones of gloss into segments,
  • determining an index of perceived gloss from the first and second indices, notably by adding at least the first and second indices.

Image processing can for example include detection of patches of a large extent, by definition with an area exceeding 100 pixels, and the corresponding total area Ab can be measured. The processing can also include the detection of patches of a small extent, by definition with an area less than 20 pixels, and the corresponding total area As can be measured.

The wet gloss index can for example be defined by the formula 40 log [(1+Ab)/(1+As)].

The image representative of non-diffuse gloss can be generated otherwise than by difference of the images P−C, for example by the operation (P−C)/(P+C) executed pixel by pixel.

The image representative of undiffused gloss can be obtained by colour or spectral polarimetric imaging. In these cases the chromatic or spectral characteristics of the image and in particular of the zones of gloss can be taken into account for calculating the various indices. In the case of high gloss, i.e. when the zones of gloss have a sufficient contrast against a diffuse background, it is possible to calculate the wet gloss index on non-polarized images generated under visible, ultraviolet or infrared illumination.

The wet gloss index of the compositions according to the invention is advantageously greater than or equal to 20, preferably greater than or equal to 30, more preferably greater than or equal to 40. The wet gloss index is less than 150, in particular less than 100, or less than 80.

Polyester (or Polycondensate)

The polyester (also called polycondensate hereinafter) is advantageously obtained by reaction of a polyol, of a polycarboxylic acid, of a non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid, and of an aromatic monocarboxylic acid.

According to one embodiment, the content of non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid is between 5 and 80 wt. %, preferably between 20 and 70 wt. %, for example from 25 to 65 wt. % relative to the total weight of the polycondensate.

According to another embodiment, the polyesters are advantageously obtained from the reaction of a polyol, of a polycarboxylic acid and of at least one non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid, said monocarboxylic acid being at a high content.

The polycondensates can be obtained by esterification/polycondensation, according to the methods known by a person skilled in the art, of the constituents described below.

One of the constituents required for preparation of the polycondensates according to the invention is a polyol, preferably comprising 3 to 6 hydroxyl groups, notably 3 to 4 hydroxyl groups. It is of course possible to use a mixture of said polyols.

Said polyol can notably be a carbon compound, notably a hydrocarbon, linear, branched and/or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, comprising 3 to 18 carbon atoms, notably 3 to 12, or even 4 to 10 carbon atoms, and 3 to 6 hydroxyl groups (OH), and can additionally comprise one or more oxygen atoms inserted in the chain (ether function).

Said polyol is preferably a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon compound, comprising 3 to 18 carbon atoms, notably 3 to 12, or even 4 to 10 carbon atoms, and 3 to 6 hydroxyl groups (OH).

It can be selected from, alone or mixed:

• • triols, such as 1,2,4-butanetriol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, glycerol;
  • tetraols, such as pentaerythritol (tetramethylolmethane), erythritol, diglycerol or ditrimethylolpropane;
  • pentols such as xylitol,
  • hexols such as sorbitol and mannitol; or dipentaerythritol or triglycerol.

Preferably, the polyol is selected from glycerol, pentaerythritol, diglycerol, sorbitol and mixtures thereof; and better still the polyol is a tetraol such as pentaerythritol.

The polyol, or the polyol mixture, preferably represents 10 to 30 wt. %, notably 12 to 25 wt. %, and better still 14 to 22 wt. %, of the total weight of the final polycondensate.

Another constituent necessary for preparation of the polycondensates according to the invention is a non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid. The non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid can be saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched and/or cyclic, comprising 6 to 32 carbon atoms, notably 8 to 28 carbon atoms and better still 10 to 24, or even 12 to 20, carbon atoms. It is of course possible to use a mixture of said non-aromatic monocarboxylic acids.

By non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid, we mean a compound of formula RCOOH, in which R is a saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched and/or cyclic hydrocarbon radical, comprising 5 to 31 carbon atoms, notably 7 to 27 carbon atoms, and better still 9 to 23 carbon atoms, or even 11 to 19 carbon atoms.

Preferably, radical R is saturated. Better still, said radical R is linear or branched, and preferably of C₅-C₃₁, or even of C₁₁-C₂₁.

In a particular embodiment of the invention, the non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid has a melting point greater than or equal to 25° C., notably greater than or equal to 28° C., or even 30° C.; it has in fact been found that when such an acid is used, especially in a large amount, it is possible on the one hand to obtain a good gloss and durability of said gloss, and on the other hand to reduce the amount of waxes usually present in the composition envisaged.

Among the non-aromatic monocarboxylic acids that can be used, we may mention, alone or mixed:

• • saturated monocarboxylic acids such as caproic acid, caprylic acid, isoheptanoic acid, 4-ethylpentanoic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, 4,5-dimethylhexanoic acid, 2-heptylheptanoic acid, 3,5,5-trimethylhexanoic acid, octanoic acid, isooctanoic acid, nonanoic acid, decanoic acid, isononanoic acid, lauric acid, tridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid, cerotic (hexacosanoic) acid; cyclopentanecarboxylic acid, cyclopentaneacetic acid, 3-cyclopentyl-propionic acid, cyclohexanecarboxylic acid, cyclohexylacetic acid, 4-cyclohexylbutyric acid;
  • unsaturated but non-aromatic monocarboxylic acids, such as caproleic acid, obtusilic acid, undecylenic acid, dodecylenic acid, linderic acid, myristoleic acid, physeteric acid, tsuzuic acid, palmitoleic acid, oleic acid, petroselinic acid, vaccenic acid, elaidic acid, gondoic acid, gadoleic acid, erucic acid, cetoleic acid, nervonic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachidonic acid.

Among the non-aromatic monocarboxylic acids mentioned previously having a melting point greater than or equal to 25° C., we may mention, alone or mixed:

• • among the saturated monocarboxylic acids: decanoic (capric) acid, lauric acid, tridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid, cerotic (hexacosanoic) acid;
  • among the unsaturated but non-aromatic monocarboxylic acids: petroselinic acid, vaccenic acid, elaidic acid, gondoic acid, gadoleic acid, erucic acid, nervonic acid.

Preferably, the following may be used: 2-ethylhexanoic acid, isooctanoic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, isoheptanoic acid, isononanoic acid, nonanoic acid, palmitic acid, isostearic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid and mixtures thereof, and better still isostearic acid alone or stearic acid alone.

Said non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid, or the mixture of said acids, preferably represents 30 to 80 wt. %, notably 40 to 75 wt. %, or even 45 to 70 wt. %, and better still 50 to 65 wt. %, of the total weight of the final polycondensate.

Another constituent necessary for preparation of the polycondensates according to the invention is an aromatic monocarboxylic acid. This acid can comprise 7 to 11 carbon atoms, in addition optionally substituted with 1 to 3 alkyl radicals, saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched and/or cyclic, which comprise 1 to 32 carbon atoms, notably 2 to 12, or even 3 to 8 carbon atoms.

It is of course possible to use a mixture of said aromatic monocarboxylic acids.

By aromatic monocarboxylic acid, we mean a compound of formula R′COOH, in which R′ is an aromatic hydrocarbon radical, comprising 6 to 10 carbon atoms, and in particular the benzoic and naphthoic radicals.

Said radical R′ can in addition be substituted with 1 to 3 alkyl radicals, saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched and/or cyclic, comprising 1 to 32 carbon atoms, notably 2 to 12, or even 3 to 8 carbon atoms; and notably selected from methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, terbutyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, cyclopentyl, hexyl, cyclohexyl, heptyl, isoheptyl, octyl or isooctyl.

Among the aromatic monocarboxylic acids that can be used, we may mention, alone or mixed, benzoic acid, o-toluic acid, m-toluic acid, p-toluic acid, 1-naphthoic acid, 2-naphthoic acid, 4-tert-butyl-benzoic acid, 1-methyl-2-naphthoic acid, 2-isopropyl-1-naphthoic acid.

Preferably, it is possible to use benzoic acid, 4-tert-butyl-benzoic acid, o-toluic acid, m-toluic acid, 1-naphthoic acid, alone or mixed; and better still benzoic acid alone.

Said aromatic monocarboxylic acid, or the mixture of said acids, preferably represents 0.1 to 10 wt. %, notably 0.5 to 9.95 wt. %, better still 1 to 9.5 wt. %, or even 1.5 to 8 wt. %, of the total weight of the final polycondensate.

The polyester can be obtained from a non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid, saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched and/or cyclic, comprising 10 to 32 carbon atoms, notably 12 to 28 carbon atoms and better still 12 to 24 carbon atoms; and having a melting point greater than or equal to 25° C., notably greater than or equal to 28° C., or even 30° C. It is of course possible to use a mixture of said non-aromatic monocarboxylic acids.

It has been found that when such an acid is used, in the stated amounts, it is possible on the one hand to obtain a good gloss and durability of said gloss, and on the other hand to reduce the amount of waxes usually present in the composition envisaged.

By non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid, we mean a compound of formula RCOOH, in which R is a saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched and/or cyclic hydrocarbon radical, comprising 9 to 31 carbon atoms, notably 11 to 27 carbon atoms, and better still 11 to 23 carbon atoms.

Preferably, radical R is saturated. Better still, said radical R is linear or branched, and preferably of C₁₁-C₂₁.

Among the non-aromatic monocarboxylic acids having a melting point greater than or equal to 25° C. that can be used, we may mention, alone or mixed:

• • among the saturated monocarboxylic acids: decanoic (capric) acid, lauric acid, tridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid, cerotic (hexacosanoic) acid;
  • among the unsaturated but non-aromatic monocarboxylic acids: petroselinic acid, vaccenic acid, elaidic acid, gondoic acid, gadoleic acid, erucic acid, nervonic acid. Preferably, it is possible to use lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid and mixtures thereof, and better still stearic acid or behenic acid, alone.

Said non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid with melting point greater than or equal to 25° C., or the mixture of said acids, preferably represents 22 to 80 wt. %, notably 25 to 75 wt. %, or even 27 to 70 wt. %, and better still 28 to 65 wt. %, of the total weight of the final polycondensate.

The polyester can be obtained from a non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid, saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched and/or cyclic, comprising 6 to 32 carbon atoms, notably 8 to 28 carbon atoms and better still 10 to 20, or even 12 to 18, carbon atoms; and having a melting point strictly below 25° C., notably below 20° C., or even 15° C. It is of course possible to use a mixture of said non-aromatic monocarboxylic acids.

By non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid, we mean a compound of formula RCOOH, in which R is a saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched and/or cyclic hydrocarbon radical, comprising 5 to 31 carbon atoms, notably 7 to 27 carbon atoms, and better still 9 to 19 carbon atoms, or even 11 to 17 carbon atoms.

Preferably, radical R is saturated. Better still, said radical R is linear or branched, and preferably of C₅-C₃₁.

Among the non-aromatic monocarboxylic acids having a melting point below 25° C. that can be used, we may mention, alone or mixed:

• • among the saturated monocarboxylic acids: caproic acid, caprylic acid, isoheptanoic acid, 4-ethylpentanoic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, 4,5-dimethylhexanoic acid, 2-heptylheptanoic acid, 3,5,5-trimethylhexanoic acid, octanoic acid, isooctanoic acid, nonanoic acid, isononanoic acid, isostearic acid;
  • among the unsaturated but non-aromatic monocarboxylic acids: caproleic acid, obtusilic acid, undecylenic acid, dodecylenic acid, linderic acid, myristoleic acid, physeteric acid, tsuzuic acid, palmitoleic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachidonic acid. Preferably, it is possible to use isooctanoic acid, isononanoic acid, isostearic acid, and mixtures thereof, and better still isostearic acid alone.

Said non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid of melting point below 25° C., or the mixture of said acids, preferably represents 0.1 to 35 wt. %, notably 0.5 to 32 wt. %, or even 1 to 30 wt. %, and better still 2 to 28 wt. %, of the total weight of the final polycondensate.

According to one embodiment, the polyester is obtained from a non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid, having a melting point greater than or equal to 25° C., and to 30° C. and from a non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid, having a melting point below 25° C.

In this embodiment, preferably, the total amount of non-aromatic monocarboxylic acids, namely those of melting point above 25° C. and those of melting point below 25° C., is advantageously between 30 and 80 wt. %, notably between 40 and 70 wt. %, or even between 45 and 65 wt. %, and better still between 50 and 60 wt. %, of the total weight of the final polycondensate.

Another constituent necessary for preparation of the polycondensates according to the invention is a polycarboxylic acid, saturated or unsaturated, or even aromatic, linear, branched and/or cyclic, comprising at least 2 carboxyl groups COOH, notably 2 to 4 COOH groups; and/or a cyclic anhydride of such a polycarboxylic acid. It is of course possible to use a mixture of said polycarboxylic acids and/or of anhydrides.

Said polycarboxylic acid can notably be selected from the linear, branched and/or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, or even aromatic polycarboxylic acids, comprising 3 to 50, notably 3 to 40, carbon atoms, in particular 3 to 36, or even 3 to 18, and better still 4 to 12 carbon atoms, or even 4 to 10 carbon atoms;

Said acid comprises at least two carboxyl groups COOH, preferably 2 to 4 COOH groups.

Preferably, said polycarboxylic acid is aliphatic and has 3 to 36 carbon atoms, notably 3 to 18 carbon atoms, or even 4 to 12 carbon atoms; or alternatively said polycarboxylic acid is aromatic and has 8 to 12 carbon atoms. Preferably it comprises 2 to 4 COOH groups.

The cyclic anhydride of said polycarboxylic acid can notably correspond to one of the following formulae:

in which groups A and B are, independently of one another:

• • a hydrogen atom,
  • a carbon radical, aliphatic, saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched and/or cyclic, or alternatively aromatic; comprising 1 to 16 carbon atoms, notably 2 to 10 carbon atoms, or even 4 to 8 carbon atoms, notably methyl or ethyl;
  • or alternatively A and B taken together form a ring comprising in total 5 to 7, notably 6 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, or even aromatic.

Preferably, A and B represent a hydrogen atom or together form an aromatic ring comprising in total 6 carbon atoms.

Among the polycarboxylic acids or their anhydrides that can be used, we may mention, alone or mixed:

• • dicarboxylic acids such as decanedioic acid, dodecanedioic acid, cyclopropanedicarboxylic acid, cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, cyclobutanedicarboxylic acid, naphthalene-1,4-dicarboxylic acid, naphthalene-2,3-dicarboxylic acid, naphthalene-2,6-dicarboxylic acid, suberic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, phthalic acid, terephthalic acid, isophthalic acid, tetrahydrophthalic acid, hexahydrophthalic acid, pimelic acid, sebacic acid, azelaic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid, dimers of fatty acids (notably of C₃₆) such as the products marketed under the designations Pripol 1006, 1009, 1013 and 1017, by Uniqema;
  • tricarboxylic acids such as cyclohexanetricarboxylic acid, trimellitic acid, 1,2,3-benzenetricarboxylic acid, 1,3,5-benzenetricarboxylic acid;
  • tetracarboxylic acids such as butanetetracarboxylic acid and pyromellitic acid,
  • the cyclic anhydrides of these acids and notably phthalic anhydride, trimellitic anhydride, maleic anhydride and succinic anhydride.

Preferably, it is possible to use adipic acid, phthalic anhydride and/or isophthalic acid, and better still isophthalic acid alone.

Said polycarboxylic acid and/or its cyclic anhydride, preferably represents 5 to 40 wt. %, notably 10 to 30 wt. %, and better still 14 to 25 wt. %, of the total weight of the final polycondensate.

The polycondensate can additionally comprise a silicone with a hydroxyl (OH) and/or carboxyl (COOH) function.

It can comprise 1 to 3 hydroxyl and/or carboxyl functions, and preferably comprises two hydroxyl functions or alternatively two carboxyl functions.

These functions can be located at the end of the chain or within the chain, but advantageously at the end of the chain.

Preferably silicones are used having a weight-average molecular weight (Mw) between 300 and 20000, notably 400 and 10 000, or even 800 and 4000.

This silicone can be of formula:

in which:

• • W and W′ are, independently of one another, OH or COOH; preferably W═W′;
  • p and q are, independently of one another, equal to 0 or 1,
  • R and R′ are, independently of one another, a divalent carbon, notably hydrocarbon, radical, saturated or unsaturated, or even aromatic, linear, branched and/or cyclic; comprising 1 to 12 carbon atoms, notably 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and optionally comprising in addition 1 or more heteroatoms selected from O, S and N, notably O (ether);
    notably R and/or R′ can be of formula —(CH₂)_a— with a=1-12, and notably methylene, ethylene, propylene, phenylene;
    or alternatively of formula —[(CH₂)_xO]_z— with x=1, 2 or 3 and z=1-10; in particular x=2 or 3 and z=1-4; and better still x=3 and z=1.
  • R1 to R6 are, independently of one another, a linear, branched and/or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated or even aromatic, carbon radical; comprising 1 to 20 carbon atoms, notably 2 to 12 carbon atoms; preferably, R1 to R6 are saturated or alternatively aromatic, and can notably be selected from the alkyl radicals, in particular the methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, pentyl, hexyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl and octadecyl radicals, the cycloalkyl radicals, in particular the cyclohexyl radical, the aryl radicals, notably phenyl and naphthyl, the aralkyl radicals, notably benzyl and phenylethyl, as well as the tolyl and xylyl radicals.
  • m and n are, independently of one another, integers between 1 and 140, and are such that the weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone is between 300 and 20 000, notably between 400 and 10 000, or even between 800 and 4000.

We may notably mention the α,ω-diol or α,ω-dicarboxylic polyalkylsiloxanes, and notably the α,ω-diol polydimethysiloxanes and the α,ω-dicarboxylic polydimethylsiloxanes; the α,ω-diol or α,ω-dicarboxylic polyarylsiloxanes and notably the α,ω-diol or α,ω-dicarboxylic polyphenylsiloxanes; the polyarylsiloxanes with silanol functions such as polyphenylsiloxane; the polyalkylsiloxanes with silanol functions such as polydimethylsiloxane; the polyaryl/alkylsiloxanes with silanol functions such as polyphenyl/methylsiloxane or polyphenyl/propylsiloxane.

Quite particularly, the α,ω-diol polydimethysiloxanes of weight-average molecular weight (Mw) between 400 and 10 000, or even between 500 and 5000, and notably between 800 and 4000, will be used.

When it is present, said silicone can preferably represent 0.1 to 15 wt. %, notably 1 to 10 wt. %, or even 2 to 8 wt. %, of the weight of the polycondensate.

In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the aromatic monocarboxylic acid is present in a molar amount less than or equal to that of the non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid; notably the ratio of the number of moles of aromatic monocarboxylic acid to the number of moles of non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid is preferably between 0.08 and 0.70, notably between 0.10 and 0.60, in particular between 0.12 and 0.40.

It has been found that this notably makes it possible to obtain a polymer that is advantageously soluble in the oily media generally used for formulating cosmetic compositions such as lipsticks or foundations; moreover, the film obtained displays adequate rigidity and flexibility for its use in this type of formulation, while having a gloss and a durability of the gloss such as are required.

According to one embodiment, the polyester can be obtained by reaction of:

• • at least one polyol comprising 3 to 6 hydroxyl groups;
  • at least one non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid comprising 6 to 32 carbon atoms;
  • at least one aromatic monocarboxylic acid comprising 7 to 11 carbon atoms,
  • at least one polycarboxylic acid comprising at least 2 carboxyl groups COOH and/or a cyclic anhydride of said polycarboxylic acid

For example, the polyester is selected from the benzoic acid/isophthalic acid/isostearic acid/pentaerythritol polymers, the benzoic acid/isophthalic acid/stearic acid/pentaerythritol polymers, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid does not contain a free OH group.

According to one embodiment, the polycondensate can be obtained by reaction:

• • of 10 to 30 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the polycondensate, of at least one polyol comprising 3 to 6 hydroxyl groups;
  • of 30 to 80 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the polycondensate, of at least one non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid, saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched and/or cyclic, comprising 6 to 32 carbon atoms;
  • of 0.1 to 10 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the polycondensate, of at least one aromatic monocarboxylic acid comprising 7 to 11 carbon atoms, optionally substituted additionally with 1 to 3 alkyl radicals, saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched and/or cyclic, which comprise 1 to 32 carbon atoms;
  • of 5 to 40 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the polycondensate, of at least one polycarboxylic acid, saturated or unsaturated, or even aromatic, linear, branched and/or cyclic, comprising at least 2 carboxyl groups COOH, notably 2 to 4 COOH groups; and/or a cyclic anhydride of said polycarboxylic acid.

According to one embodiment, said polycondensate can be obtained by reaction:

• • of 15 to 30 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the polycondensate, of at least one polyol comprising 3 to 6 hydroxyl groups;
  • of 5 to 40 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the polycondensate, of at least one non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid, saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched and/or cyclic, comprising 6 to 32 carbon atoms;
  • of 10 to 55 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the polycondensate, of at least one aromatic monocarboxylic acid comprising 7 to 11 carbon atoms, optionally substituted additionally with 1 to 3 alkyl radicals, saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched and/or cyclic, which comprise 1 to 32 carbon atoms;
  • of 10 to 25 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the polycondensate, of at least one polycarboxylic acid, saturated or unsaturated, or even aromatic, linear, branched and/or cyclic, comprising at least 2 carboxyl groups COOH, notably 2 to 4 COOH groups; and/or a cyclic anhydride of said polycarboxylic acid.

Preferably, the composition comprises a polycondensate as defined above, such that the ratio of the number of moles of aromatic monocarboxylic acid to the number of moles of non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid is between 0.08 and 0.70.

Preferably, the composition comprises a polycondensate as defined above, with the proviso that when the polycondensate comprises 10 wt. % of at least one aromatic monocarboxylic acid comprising 7 to 11 carbon atoms, optionally substituted additionally with 1 to 3 alkyl radicals, saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched and/or cyclic, which comprise 1 to 32 carbon atoms; then the ratio of the number of moles of aromatic monocarboxylic acid to the number of moles of non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid is between 0.08 and 0.70.

Preferably, the polycondensate can be obtained by reaction:

• • of at least one polyol selected from, alone or mixed, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, glycerol; pentaerythritol, erythritol, diglycerol, ditrimethylolpropane; xylitol, sorbitol, mannitol, dipentaerythritol and/or triglycerol; present preferably in an amount from 10 to 30 wt. %, notably 12 to 25 wt. %, and better still 14 to 22 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the final polycondensate;
  • of at least one non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid selected from, alone or mixed, caproic acid, caprylic acid, isoheptanoic acid, 4-ethylpentanoic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, 4,5-dimethylhexanoic acid, 2-heptylheptanoic acid, 3,5,5-trimethylhexanoic acid, octanoic acid, isooctanoic acid, nonanoic acid, decanoic acid, isononanoic acid, lauric acid, tridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid, cerotic (hexacosanoic) acid; cyclopentanecarboxylic acid, cyclopentaneacetic acid, 3-cyclopentylpropionic acid, cyclohexanecarboxylic acid, cyclohexylacetic acid, 4-cyclohexylbutyric acid; present preferably in an amount from 30 to 80 wt. %, notably 40 to 75 wt. %, and better still 45 to 70 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the final polycondensate;
  • of at least one aromatic monocarboxylic acid selected from, alone or mixed, benzoic acid, o-toluic acid, m-toluic acid, p-toluic acid, 1-naphthoic acid, 2-naphthoic acid, 4-tert-butyl benzoic acid, 1-methyl-2-naphthoic acid, 2-isopropyl-1-naphthoic acid;
    present preferably in an amount from 0.1 to 10 wt. %, notably 1 to 9.5 wt. %, or even 1.5 to 8 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the final polycondensate; and
  • of at least one polycarboxylic acid or one of its anhydrides, selected from, alone or mixed, decanedioic acid, dodecanedioic acid, cyclopropanedicarboxylic acid, cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, cyclobutanedicarboxylic acid, naphthalene-1,4-dicarboxylic acid, naphthalene-2,3-dicarboxylic acid, naphthalene-2,6-dicarboxylic acid, suberic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, phthalic acid, terephthalic acid, isophthalic acid, pimelic acid, sebacic acid, azelaic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid; cyclohexanetricarboxylic acid, trimellitic acid, 1,2,3-benzenetricarboxylic acid, 1,3,5-benzenetricarboxylic acid; butanetetracarboxylic acid, pyromellitic acid, phthalic anhydride, trimellitic anhydride, maleic anhydride and succinic anhydride;
    present preferably in an amount from 5 to 40 wt. %, notably 10 to 30 wt. %, and better still 14 to 25 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the final polycondensate.

According to another embodiment, the polycondensate can be obtained by reaction:

• • of 10 to 30 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the polycondensate, of at least one polyol comprising 3 to 6 hydroxyl groups;
  • of 22 to 80 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the polycondensate, of at least one non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid, saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched and/or cyclic, comprising 10 to 32 carbon atoms, and having a melting point greater than or equal to 25° C.;
  • of 0.1 to 35 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the polycondensate, of at least one non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid, saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched and/or cyclic, comprising 6 to 32 carbon atoms, and having a melting point strictly below 25° C.;
  • of 0.1 to 10 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the polycondensate, of at least one aromatic monocarboxylic acid comprising 7 to 11 carbon atoms, optionally substituted additionally with 1 to 3 alkyl radicals, saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched and/or cyclic, which comprise 1 to 32 carbon atoms;
  • of 5 to 40 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the polycondensate, of at least one polycarboxylic acid, saturated or unsaturated, or even aromatic, linear, branched and/or cyclic, comprising at least 2 carboxyl groups COOH, notably 2 to 4 COOH groups; and/or a cyclic anhydride of said polycarboxylic acid.

Preferably, the polycondensate can be obtained by reaction:

• • of at least one polyol selected from, alone or mixed, glycerol, pentaerythritol, sorbitol and mixtures thereof, and better still pentaerythritol alone; present in an amount from 10 to 30 wt. %, notably 12 to 25 wt. %, and better still 14 to 22 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the final polycondensate;
  • of at least one non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid selected from, alone or mixed, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, isooctanoic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, isostearic acid, isononanoic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid and mixtures thereof, and better still isostearic acid alone or stearic acid alone;
    present in an amount from 30 to 80 wt. %, notably 40 to 75 wt. %, and better still 45 to 70 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the final polycondensate;
  • of at least one aromatic monocarboxylic acid selected from, alone or mixed, benzoic acid, o-toluic acid, m-toluic acid, 1-naphthoic acid, and better still benzoic acid alone; present in an amount from 0.1 to 10 wt. %, notably 1 to 9.5 wt. %, or even 1.5 to 8 wt. % relative to the total weight of the final polycondensate; and
  • of at least one polycarboxylic acid or one of its anhydrides, selected from, alone or mixed, phthalic anhydride and isophthalic acid, and better still isophthalic acid alone; present in an amount from 5 to 40 wt. %, notably 10 to 30 wt. %, and better still 14 to 25 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the final polycondensate.

Preferably, the polycondensate has:

• • an acid number, expressed in mg of potassium hydroxide per g of polycondensate, greater than or equal to 1; notably between 2 and 30, and better still between 2.5 and 15; and/or
  • a hydroxyl number expressed in mg of potassium hydroxide per g of polycondensate, greater than or equal to 40; notably between 40 and 120, and better still between 45 and 80.

The acid number and hydroxyl number can easily be determined by a person skilled in the art by the usual analytical methods.

Preferably, the polycondensate has a weight-average molecular weight (Mw) between 1500 and 300 000, or even between 2000 and 200 000, and notably between 3000 and 100 000.

The average molecular weight can be determined by gel permeation chromatography or by light scattering, depending on the solubility of the polymer in question.

Preferably, the polycondensate has a viscosity, measured at 110° C., between 20 and 4000 mPa·s, notably between 30 and 3500 mPa·s, or even between 40 and 3000 mPa·s and better still between 50 and 2500 mPa·s. This viscosity is measured in the manner described before the examples.

Moreover, the polycondensate is advantageously soluble in the oily cosmetic media usually employed, and notably in vegetable oils, alkanes, fatty esters, fatty alcohols, silicone oils, and more particularly in media comprising isododecane, Parleam, isononyl isononanoate, octyldodecanol, phenyl trimethicone, C₁₂-C₁₅ alkyl benzoate and/or D5 (decamethylcyclopentasiloxane).

By soluble, we mean that the polymer forms a clear solution in at least one solvent selected from isododecane, Parleam, isononyl isononanoate, octyldodecanol and Cl₂—C_1-5 alkyl benzoate, at a rate of at least 50 wt. %, at 70° C. Certain compounds even display a particularly advantageous solubility in certain fields of application, namely solubility in at least one of the solvents mentioned above, at a rate of at least 50 wt. %, at 25° C.

The polycondensate can be prepared by the methods of esterification/polycondensation usually employed by a person skilled in the art. By way of illustration, a general method of preparation comprises:

• • mixing the polyol and the aromatic and non-aromatic monocarboxylic acids,
  • heating the mixture under inert atmosphere, firstly up to the melting point (generally 100-130° C.) and then at a temperature between 150 and 220° C. until the monocarboxylic acids are completely consumed (achieved when the acid number is less than or equal to 1), preferably distilling the water as it forms, then
  • optionally cooling the mixture to a temperature between 90 and 150° C.,
  • adding the polycarboxylic acid and/or the cyclic anhydride, and optionally the silicone with hydroxyl or carboxyl functions, in one go or stepwise, then
  • heating again to a temperature less than or equal to 220° C., notably between 170 and 220° C., preferably continuing to remove the water that forms, until the required characteristics in terms of acid number, viscosity, hydroxyl number and solubility are obtained.

It is possible to add conventional esterification catalysts, for example of the sulphonic acid type (notably at a concentration by weight between 1 and 10%) or titanate type (notably at a concentration by weight between 5 and 100 ppm).

It is also possible to carry out the reaction, entirely or partly, in an inert solvent such as xylene and/or at reduced pressure, to facilitate the removal of water.

Advantageously, neither catalyst nor solvent is used.

Said method of preparation can further comprise a stage of addition of at least one antioxidant to the reaction mixture, notably at a concentration by weight between 0.01 and 1%, relative to the total weight of monomers, so as to limit any degradation associated with prolonged heating.

The antioxidant can be of primary type or of secondary type, and can be selected from hindered phenols, secondary aromatic amines, organophosphorus compounds, sulphur compounds, lactones, acrylated bisphenols; and mixtures thereof.

Among the antioxidants that are particularly preferred, we may notably mention BHT, BHA, TBHQ, 1,3,5-trimethyl-2,4,6-tris(3,5-di-tertbutyl-4-hydroxybenzyl)-benzene, octadecyl-3,5-di-tertbutyl-4-hydroxycinnamate, tetrakis-methylene-3-(3,5-di-tertbutyl-4-hydroxy-phenyl)propionate methane, octadecyl-3-(3,5-di-tertbutyl-4-hydroxyphenyl)propionate 2,5-di-tertbutyl hydroquinone, 2,2-methyl-bis-(4-methyl-6-tertbutyl phenol), 2,2-methylene-bis-(4-ethyl-6-tertbutyl phenol), 4,4-butylidene-bis(6-tertbutyl-m-cresol), N,N-hexamethylene bis(3,5-di-tertbutyl-4-hydroxyhydrocinnamamide), pentaerythritol tetrakis(3-(3,5-di-tertbutyl-4-hydroxyphenyl)propionate) notably that marketed by CIBA under the name IRGANOX 1010; octadecyl 3-(3,5-di-tertbutyl-4-hydroxyphenyl) propionate notably that marketed by CIBA under the name IRGANOX 1076; 1,3,5-tris(3,5-di-tertbutyl-4-hydroxybenzyl)-1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6(1H,3H,5H)trione notably that marketed by Mayzo of Norcross, Ga. under the name BNX 3114; di(stearyl)pentaerythritol diphosphite, tris(2,4-ditertbutyl phenyl)phosphite notably that marketed by CIBA under the name IRGAFOS 168; dilauryl thiodipropionate notably that marketed by CIBA under the name IRGANOX PS800; bis(2,4-di-tertbutyl)pentaerythritol diphosphite notably that marketed by CIBA under the name IRGAFOS 126; bis(2,4-bis)[2-phenylpropan-2-yl]phenyl)pentaerythritol diphosphite, triphenylphosphite, (2,4-di-tertbutylphenyl)pentaerythritol diphosphite notably that marketed by GE Specialty Chemicals under the name ULTRANOX 626; tris(nonylphenyl)phosphite notably that marketed by CIBA under the name IRGAFOS TNPP; the 1:1 mixture of N,N-hexamethylenebis(3,5-di-tertbutyl-4-hydroxy-hydrocinnamamide) and of tris(2,4-di-tertbutylphenyl)phosphate notably that marketed by CIBA under the name Irganox B 1171; tetrakis(2,4-di-tert-butylphenyl)phosphite notably that marketed by CIBA under the name IRGAFOS P-EPQ; distearylthiodipropionate notably that marketed by CIBA under the name IRGANOX PS802; 2,4-bis(octylthiomethyl)o-cresol notably that marketed by CIBA under the name IRGANOX 1520; 4,6-bis(dodecylthiomethyl)o-cresol notably that marketed by CIBA under the name IRGANOX 1726.

The amount of polycondensate present in the compositions depends of course on the type of composition and on the properties required and can vary over a very wide range, generally between 0.1 and 70 wt. %, preferably between 1 and 50 wt. %, notably between 10 and 45 wt. %, or even between 20 and 40 wt. %, and better still between 25 and 35 wt. %, relative to the weight of the cosmetic composition.

According to one embodiment, the amount of polycondensate present in the compositions is between 10 and 20 wt. % relative to the weight of the cosmetic composition.

Non-Volatile Oil

The non-volatile oil can represent 1 to 90 wt. % of the composition, notably from 5 to 75 wt. %, in particular from 10 to 60 wt. %, or even from 25 to 55 wt. %, of the total weight of the composition.

According to one embodiment, the non-volatile oil can represent from 35 to 60 wt. %.

In the sense of the present invention, “non-volatile oil” means an oil having a vapour pressure below 0.13 Pa. The non-volatile oils can be hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils, or mixtures thereof.

In the sense of the present invention, “silicone oil” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and notably at least one Si—O group.

“Hydrocarbon oil” means an oil containing mainly atoms of hydrogen and carbon and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulphur and/or phosphorus atoms.

“Hydrocarbon” means an oil containing only hydrogen and carbon atoms.

The non-volatile oils can notably be selected from the hydrocarbon oils, fluorinated if necessary, and/or the non-volatile silicone oils.

As non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, we may notably mention:

• • hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin such as phytostearyl esters, such as phytostearyl oleate, phytostearyl isostearate and lauroyl/octyldodecyl/phytostearyl glutamate (AJINOMOTO, ELDEW PS203), triglycerides constituted of esters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which can have chain lengths varying from C₄ to C₂₄, and the latter can be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils are notably heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grape-seed oil, sesame oil, maize oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea butter oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soya oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, colza oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, lucerne oil, poppy oil, Chinese okra oil, cucurbit oil, black currant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut tree oil, passionflower oil, musk rose oil; shea butter; or triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids such as those sold by the company STEARINERIES DUBOIS or those sold under the designations MIGLYOL 810®, 812® and 818° by the company DYNAMIT NOBEL,
  • synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;
  • linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, squalane and mixtures thereof, and in particular hydrogenated polyisobutene,
  • synthetic esters such as the oils of formula R₁COOR₂ in which R₁ represents the residue of a linear or branched acid having from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R₂ represents a hydrocarbon chain, notably branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that R₁+R₂≧10.

The esters can notably be selected from esters, notably of fatty acid for example cetostearyl octanoate, esters of isopropyl alcohol, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropylstearate or isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactacte, octyl hydroxystearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, and notably isostearyl heptanoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or of polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 4-diheptanoate and ethyl 2-hexyl palmitate, alkyl benzoate, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, diethyl 2-hexanoate of propylene glycol and mixtures thereof, benzoates of C₁₂-C₁₅ alcohols, hexyl laurate, esters of neopentanoic acid such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, octyldocecyl neopentanoate, esters of isononanoic acid such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, di-isostearyl malate;

• • esters of polyols and esters of pentaerythritol, such as dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate/tetraisostearate,
  • fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, and 2-undecylpentadecanol,
  • higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and mixtures thereof, and
  • dialkyl carbonates, in which the two alkyl chains may be identical or different, such as the dicaprylyl carbonate marketed under the designation CETIOL CC®, by COGNIS.

The non-volatile silicone oils that can be used in the composition can be non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), the polydimethylsiloxanes having alkyl or alkoxy groups that are pendent and/or at the ends of the silicone chain, each group having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, the phenylated silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, dimethicones or phenyltrimethicones with viscosity less than or equal to 100 cSt, and mixtures thereof. According to another embodiment, the silicone oil corresponds to the formula

in which groups R represent, independently of one another, a methyl or a phenyl. Preferably in this formula, said organopolysiloxane comprises at least three phenyl groups, for example at least four or at least five.

Mixtures of phenylated organopolysiloxanes as described previously can be used.

We may mention, as examples, mixtures of triphenylated, tetraphenylated or pentaphenylated organopolysiloxane.

According to another embodiment, the silicone oil corresponds to the formula

in which Me represents methyl, Ph represents phenyl. Such a phenylated silicone is notably manufactured by Dow Corning under the reference Dow Corning 555 Cosmetic Fluid (INCI name: trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane). The reference Dow Corning 554 Cosmetic Fluid can also be used.

The non-volatile oil is preferably apolar, in the sense that its solubility parameter delta an is equal to 0.

Wax

The composition can contain a wax. “Wax” in the sense of the present invention means a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25° C.), with reversible solid/liquid transition, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30° C. and up to 120° C.

The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the designation DSC 30 by the Company METTLER.

The waxes can be hydrocarbon waxes, fluorinated waxes and/or silicone waxes and can be of vegetable, mineral, animal and/or synthetic origin. In particular, the waxes have a melting point above 25° C. and better still above 45° C.

As wax that can be used in the first, we may mention linear hydrocarbon waxes. Their melting point is advantageously above 35° C., for example above 55° C., preferably above 80° C.

The linear hydrocarbon waxes are advantageously selected from substituted linear alkanes, unsubstituted linear alkanes, unsubstituted linear alkenes, substituted linear alkenes, an unsubstituted compound being composed solely of carbon and hydrogen. The substituents mentioned previously not containing carbon atoms.

The linear hydrocarbon waxes include the polymers and copolymers of ethylene, of molecular weight between 400 and 800, for example Polywax 500 or Polywax 400 marketed by New Phase Technologies.

The linear hydrocarbon waxes include the linear paraffin waxes, such as paraffins S&P 206, S&P 173 and S&P 434 from Strahl & Pitsch.

The linear hydrocarbon waxes include the long-chain linear alcohols, such as the products comprising a mixture of polyethylene and of alcohols having 20 to 50 carbon atoms, notably Performacol 425 or Performacol 550 (mixture in the proportions 20/80) marketed by New Phase Technologies.

Examples of silicone waxes are for example

• • The C20-24 alkyl methicone, C24-28 alkyl dimethicone, C20-24 alkyl dimethicone, C24-28 alkyl dimethicone marketed by Archimica Fine Chemicals under the reference SilCare 41M40, SilCare 41M50, SilCare 41M70 and SilCare 41M80,
  • The stearyl dimethicones of reference SilCare 41M65 marketed by Archimica or of reference DC-2503 marketed by Dow-Corning
  • The stearoxytrimethylsilanes sold under the reference SilCare 1M71 or DC-580
  • The products ABIL Wax 9810, 9800, or 2440 from Wacker-Chemie GmbH,
  • The C30-45 alkyl methicone marketed by Dow Corning under the reference AMS-C30 Wax, as well as the C30-45 alkyl dimethicones marketed under the reference SF1642 or SF-1632 by General Electric.

The amount of wax in the composition according to the invention can range from 5 to 70 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 5 to 40 wt. %, and better still from 10 to 30 wt. %.

Colourant

The composition according to the invention can contain a colourant, at a rate of 0.5 to 50% of colourant, preferably 2 to 40% and better still 5 to 30%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The colourant can be any inorganic and/or organic compound, displaying absorption between 350 and 700 nm, or capable of generating an optical effect such as the reflection of incident light or interference, for example.

The colourants for use in the present invention are selected from all the organic and/or mineral pigments known in the industry, notably those described in the Kirk-Othmer encyclopaedia of chemical technology and in Ullmann's encyclopaedia of industrial chemistry.

As examples of mineral colourants, we may mention titanium dioxide, with or without surface treatment, zinc oxide, oxides of zirconium or of cerium, oxides of iron or of chromium, manganese violet, ultramarine, chromium hydrate and ferric blue. For example, the following mineral pigments can be used: Ta₂O₅, Ti₃O₅, Ti₂O₃, TiO, ZrO₂ mixed with TiO₂, ZrO₂, Nb₂O₅, CeO₂, ZnS.

As examples of organic colourants, we may mention the nitroso, nitro, azo compounds, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, compounds of the metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, and quinophthalone.

In particular, the colourants can be selected from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorgho red, blue pigments identified in the Colour Index under references Cl 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, yellow pigments identified in the Colour Index under references Cl 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, green pigments identified in the Colour Index under references Cl 61565, 61570, 74260, orange pigments identified in the Colour Index under references Cl 11725, 15510, 45370, 71105, red pigments identified in the Colour Index under references Cl 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole derivatives and phenolic derivatives as described in patent FR 2 679 771.

The pigments according to the invention can also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments can be composed notably of particles comprising an inorganic core, at least one binder for fixing organic pigments on the core, and at least one organic pigment at least partially covering the core.

The colourants can be selected from dyes, lakes or pigments.

The dyes are for example fat-soluble dyes, although water-soluble dyes can be used. The fat-soluble dyes are for example Sudan red, D & C Red 17, D & C Green 6, β-carotene, soya oil, Sudan brown, D & C Yellow 11, D & C Violet 2, D & C orange 5, quinoline yellow, annatto. They can represent from 0 to 20% of the weight of the composition and better still from 0.1 to 6%. Water-soluble dyes are notably beetroot juice, methylene blue and can represent from 0.1 to 6 wt. % of the composition (if present).

“Lake” means dyes that are adsorbed on insoluble particles, the composite thus obtained remaining insoluble during use. Inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are for example alumina, silica, borosilicate of calcium and sodium or borosilicate of calcium and aluminium, and aluminium. Among the organic dyes, we may mention carmine.

As examples of lakes, we may mention the products known under the following designations: D & C Red 21 (Cl 45 380), D & C Orange 5 (Cl 45 370), D & C Red 27 (Cl 45 410), D & C Orange 10 (Cl 45 425), D & C Red 3 (Cl 45 430), D & C Red 7 (Cl 15 850:1), D & C Red 4 (Cl 15 510), D & C Red 33 (Cl 17 200), D & C Yellow 5 (Cl 19 140), D & C Yellow 6 (Cl 15 985), D & C Green (Cl 61 570), D & C Yellow 1 O (Cl 77 002), D & C Green 3 (Cl 42 053), D & C Blue 1 (Cl 42 090).

“Pigments” means white or coloured, mineral or organic particles, intended for colouring and/or opacifying the composition. The pigments according to the invention can for example be selected from white or coloured pigments, pigments with special effects such as nacres, reflective pigments or pigments producing interference effects.

As pigments that can be used in the invention, we may mention oxides of titanium, zirconium or cerium, as well as oxides of zinc, iron or chromium, and ferric blue. Among the organic pigments that can be used in the invention, we may mention carbon black, and the lakes of barium, strontium, calcium (D & C Red No 7) and aluminium.

Nacres can be present in the composition at a rate of 0.001 to 20% of the total weight of the composition, preferably in a proportion of the order of 1 to 15%. Among the nacres that can be used in the invention, we may mention mica coated with titanium dioxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride such as coloured titanium mica.

The pigments can be present in the composition at a rate of 0.05 to 30% of the weight of the final composition, and preferably at a rate of 2 to 20%.

The variety of the pigments that can be used in the present invention makes it possible to obtain a rich palette of colours, as well as special optical effects such as metallic or interference effects.

By pigments with special effects, we mean pigments that generally create a coloured appearance (characterized by a certain shade, a certain vividness and a certain brightness) that is non-uniform, and varies depending on the viewing conditions (light, temperature, viewing angle etc.). They thus differ from the white or coloured pigments, which provide a conventional uniform opaque, semi-transparent or transparent hue.

As examples of pigments with special effects, we may mention white nacreous pigments such as mica coated with titanium dioxide, or with bismuth oxychloride, coloured nacreous pigments such as mica coated with titanium dioxide and with iron oxides, mica coated with titanium dioxide and notably with ferric blue or with chromium oxide, mica coated with titanium dioxide and with an organic pigment as defined previously, as well as nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. As nacreous pigments, we may mention Cellini nacres marketed by Engelhard (Mica-TiO₂-lake), Prestige marketed by Eckart (Mica-TiO₂), Colorona marketed by Merck (Mica-TiO₂—Fe₂O₃).

We may also mention the pigments with interference effect that are not fixed to a substrate, such as liquid crystals (Helicones HC from Wacker), holographic interference flakes (Geometric Pigments or Spectra f/x from Spectratek). Pigments with special effects also comprise fluorescent pigments, whether they are substances that fluoresce in daylight or which produce ultraviolet fluorescence, phosphorescent pigments, photochromic pigments, and thermochromic pigments.

Advantageously, the composition contains goniochromatic pigments, for example multilayer interference pigments, and/or reflective pigments. These two types of pigments are described in application FR0209246, the contents of which are incorporated in the present application by reference.

The composition can contain reflective pigments, which may or may not be of the goniochromatic type or of the interference type.

Their size is compatible with the phenomenon of specular reflection of visible light (400-700 nm), of sufficient intensity, taking into account the mean gloss of the composition, to create highlights. Said size can vary depending on the chemical nature of the particles, their shape and their specular reflectivity for visible light.

The reflective particles will preferably have a size of at least 10 μm, for example between about 20 μm and about 50 μm.

By “size”, we mean the size given by the statistical granulometric distribution for half of the population, called D50. The size of the reflective particles will depend on their surface condition. The higher the reflectivity of the latter, the smaller the size can be, a priori, and vice versa.

Reflective particles for use in the invention, with metallic or white reflection, can for example reflect light in all the components of the visible region without significantly absorbing one or more wavelengths. The spectral reflectance of these reflective particles can for example be greater than 70% in the range 400-700 nm, and better still at least 80%, or 90% or even 95%.

Regardless of their shape, the reflective particles may or may not have a multilayer structure and, in the case of a multilayer structure, for example at least one layer of uniform thickness, notably of a reflective material, which coats a substrate.

The substrate can be selected from glasses, ceramics, graphite, metal oxides, aluminas, silicas, silicates, notably aluminosilicates and borosilicates and synthetic mica, this list not being exhaustive.

The reflective material can comprise a layer of metal or of a metallic compound.

The layer of metal or of metallic compound may or may not completely envelop the substrate, and the layer of metal can be at least partially covered by a layer of another material, for example a transparent material. It may be preferable for the layer of metal or of metallic compound to coat the substrate directly or indirectly, i.e. with interposition of at least one, metallic or nonmetallic, intermediate layer.

The metal can be selected for example from Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te, Se and their alloys. Ag, Au, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo, Cr, Cu and their alloys (for example bronzes and brasses) are the preferred metals.

In the case notably of particles with a silver-coated or gold-coated substrate, the metallic layer can be present at a content representing for example from 0.1 to 50% of the total weight of the particles, or even between 1 and 20%.

Glass particles coated with a metallic layer are described notably in documents JP-A-09188830, JP-A-10158450, JP-A-10158541, JP-A-07258460 and JP-A-05017710. Particles with a silver-coated glass substrate, in the form of flakes, are sold under the designation MICROGLASS METASHINE REFSX 2025 PS by the company TOYAL. Particles with a glass substrate coated with nickel/chromium/molybdenum alloy are sold under the designation CRYSTAL STAR GF 550, GF 2525 by the same company.

Regardless of their form, the reflective particles can also be selected from particles with a synthetic substrate coated at least partially with at least one layer of at least one metallic compound, notably a metal oxide, selected for example from the oxides of titanium, notably TiO₂, of iron, notably Fe₂O₃, of tin, of chromium; barium sulphate and the following compounds: MgF₂, CrF₃, ZnS, ZnSe, SiO₂, Al₂O₃, MgO, Y₂O₃, SeO₃, SiO, HfO₂, ZrO₂ CeO₂, Nb₂O₅, Ta₂O₅, MoS₂ and mixtures or alloys thereof.

As examples of such particles, we may mention for example particles comprising a substrate of synthetic mica coated with titanium dioxide, or glass particles coated either with brown iron oxide, or with titanium dioxide, tin oxide or one of their mixtures, such as those sold under the tradename REFLECKS® by the company ENGELHARD.

Pigments from the METASHINE 1080R range marketed by the company NIPPON SHEET GLASS CO. LTD. are also suitable for the invention. These pigments, more particularly described in patent application JP 2001-11340, are glass flakes of C-GLASS comprising 65 to 72% of SiO₂, covered with a layer of titanium dioxide of the rutile type (TiO₂). These glass flakes have an average thickness of 1 micron and an average size of 80 microns, i.e. a ratio of average size to average thickness of 80. They give blue, green, yellow or silvery reflections, depending on the thickness of the layer of TiO₂.

We may also mention the particles of size between 80 and 100 μm, comprising a substrate of synthetic mica (fluorophlogopite) coated with titanium dioxide representing 12% of the total weight of the particle, sold under the designation PROMINENCE by the company NIHON KOKEN.

The reflective particles can further be selected from the particles formed from a stack of at least two layers with different refractive indices. These layers can be of a polymeric or metallic nature and notably include at least one polymeric layer. Said particles are notably described in WO 99/36477, U.S. Pat. No. 6,299,979 and U.S. Pat. No. 6,387,498. By way of illustration of the materials that can constitute the various layers of the multilayer structure, we may mention, this list not being limitative: polyethylene naphthalate (PEN) and its isomers, polyalkylene terephthalates, and polyimides. Reflective particles comprising a stack of at least two layers of polymers are marketed by the company 3M under the designation MIRROR GLITTER. These particles comprise layers of 2,6-PEN and of poly(methyl methacrylate) at a ratio by mass of 80/20. Such particles are described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,825,643.

The composition can contain one or more goniochromatic pigments.

The goniochromatic colourant can be selected for example from the multilayer interference structures and liquid-crystal colourants.

In the case of a multilayer structure, it can have for example at least two layers, each layer, independently, or not, of the other layer or layers, being made for example from at least one material selected from the group comprising the following materials: MgF₂, CeF₃, ZnS, ZnSe, Si, SiO₂, Ge, Te, Fe₂O₃, Pt, Va, Al₂O₃, MgO, Y₂O₃, S₂O₃, SiO, HfO₂, ZrO₂, CeO₂, Nb₂O₅, Ta₂O₅, TiO₂, Ag, Al, Au, Cu, Rb, Ti, Ta, W, Zn, MOS₂, cryolite, alloys, polymers and combinations thereof.

The multilayer structure may or may not have, with respect to a central layer, symmetry at the level of the chemical nature of the stacked layers.

Examples of symmetrical multilayer interference structures that can be used are for example the following structures: Al/SiO₂/Al/SiO₂/AI, pigments having this structure being marketed by the company DUPONT DE NEMOURS; Cr/MgF₂/Al/MgF₂/Cr, pigments having this structure being marketed under the designation CHROMAFLAIR by the company FLEX; MoS₂/SiO₂/Al/SiO₂/MoS₂; Fe₂O₃/SiO₂/Al/SiO₂/Fe₂O₃, and Fe₂O₃/SiO₂/Fe₂O₃/SiO₂/Fe₂O₃, pigments having these structures being marketed under the designation SICOPEARL by the company BASF; MoS₂/SiO₂/mica-oxide/SiO₂/MoS₂; Fe₂O₃/SiO₂/mica-oxide/SiO₂/Fe₂O₃; TiO₂/SiO₂/TiO₂ and TiO₂/Al₂O₃/TiO₂, SnO/TiO₂/SiO₂/TiO₂/SnO; Fe₂O₃/SiO₂/Fe₂O₃; SnO/mica/TiO₂/SiO₂/TiO₂/mica/SnO, pigments having these structures being marketed under the designation XIRONA by the company MERCK (Darmstadt). For example, these pigments can be the pigments of silica/titanium dioxide/tin oxide structure marketed under the name XIRONA MAGIC by the company MERCK, the pigments of silica/brown iron oxide structure marketed under the name XIRONA INDIAN SUMMER by the company MERCK and the pigments of silica/titanium dioxide/mica/tin oxide structure marketed under the name XIRONA CARIBBEAN BLUE by the company MERCK. We may also mention the pigments INFINITE COLORS from the company SHISEIDO. Various effects are obtained, depending on the thickness and the nature of the different layers. Thus, with the Fe₂O₃/SiO₂/Al/SiO₂/Fe₂O₃ structure it ranges from golden-green to grey-red for layers of SiO₂ from 320 to 350 nm; from red to golden for layers of SiO₂ from 380 to 400 nm; from violet to green for layers of SiO₂ from 410 to 420 nm; from copper to red for layers of SiO₂ from 430 to 440 nm.

It is also possible to use goniochromatic colourants with a multilayer structure comprising alternating polymeric layers, for example such as polyethylene naphthalate and polyethylene terephthalate. Said colourants are notably described in WO-A-96/19347 and WO-A-99/36478.

We may mention, as examples of pigments with a polymeric multilayer structure, those marketed by the company 3M under the designation COLOR GLITTER.

The colourants with liquid crystals comprise for example silicones or cellulose ethers on which mesomorphic groups are grafted.

As goniochromatic particles with liquid crystals, it is possible to use for example those sold by the company CHENIX as well as those marketed under the designation HELICONE® HC by the company WACKER.

The composition can in addition comprise dispersed goniochromatic fibres. Such fibres can for example have a size between 200 μm and 700 μm, for example about 300 μm.

In particular, it is possible to use interference fibres with a multilayer structure. Fibres with a multilayer structure of polymers are notably described in documents EP-A-921217, EP-A-686858 and U.S. Pat. No. 5,472,798. The multilayer structure can comprise at least two layers, each layer, independently, or not, of the other layer or layers, being made from at least one synthetic polymer. The polymers present in the fibres can have a refractive index in the range from 1.30 to 1.82 and better still in the range from 1.35 to 1.75. The preferred polymers for constituting the fibres are polyesters such as polyethylene terephthalate, polyethylene naphthalate, polycarbonate; acrylic polymers such as poly(methyl methacrylate); polyamides.

Goniochromatic fibres with a polyethylene terephthalate/nylon-6 bilayer structure are marketed by the company TEIJIN under the designation MORPHOTEX.

The compositions according to the invention can be in any form that is acceptable and usual for a cosmetic composition.

A person skilled in the art will be able to select the appropriate galenical form, as well as its method of preparation, on the basis of his general knowledge, taking into account on the one hand the nature of the constituents used, notably their solubility in the substrate, and on the other hand the application envisaged for the composition.

The compositions according to the invention can be used for the care or make-up of keratinous materials such as the hair, the skin, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the nails, the lips, the scalp and more particularly for make-up of the lips, eyelashes and/or face.

They can therefore be in the form of a product for care and/or make-up of the skin of the body or of the face, lips, eyelashes, eyebrows, hair, scalp or nails; a sun-tan or self-tanning product; a hair-care product notably for dyeing, conditioning and/or care of the hair; they are advantageously in the form of mascara, lipstick, lip gloss, blusher, eye shadow, foundation.

The invention further relates to a method of cosmetic treatment of keratinous materials, notably the skin of the body or of the face, the lips, the nails, the hair and/or the eyelashes, comprising the application, on said materials, of a cosmetic composition as defined previously.

The method according to the present invention notably provides care or make-up of the lips, by application of a composition of lipstick or of lip gloss according to the invention.

The invention further relates to the use of a polycondensate and of a non-volatile oil, notably in the proportions and with the chemical constitution described previously, for the make-up of the lips in order to improve the durability of the gloss over time.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic kit comprising:

• • a container delimiting at least one compartment, said container being closed by a closing element; and
  • a composition as described previously arranged inside said compartment.

The container can be of any suitable form. Notably it can be in the form of a pot, a box, or a case.

The closing element can be in the form of a removable stopper, a cover, a lid, notably of the type comprising a body fixed to the container and a cap hinged on the body.

The applicator can be in the form of a block of foam or of elastomer, a pad, or a spatula. The applicator can be free (puff or sponge) or integral with a stem carried by the closing element, as described for example in U.S. Pat. No. 5,492,426. The applicator can be integral with the container, as described for example in patent FR 2 761 959.

The closing element can be joined to the container by screwing. Alternatively, the closing element and the container are joined together otherwise than by screwing, notably via a bayonet mechanism, snap fitting, clamping, welding, gluing, or by magnetic attraction. “Snap fitting” means in particular any system involving the clearing of a ridge or collar of material by elastic deformation of one portion, notably of the closing element, then return to a position without elastic strain of said portion after the ridge or collar has been cleared.

The container can be made at least partly of thermoplastic material. As examples of thermoplastic materials, we may mention polypropylene or polyethylene.

Alternatively, the container is made of non-thermoplastic material, notably of glass or of metal (or alloy).

The container can have rigid walls or deformable walls, notably in the form of a tube or a “scent-bottle” tube.

The container can comprise means intended for causing or facilitating the distribution of the composition. Notably when the product is in the form of a stick, the latter can be propelled by a piston mechanism. Still in the case of a stick, notably of make-up product (lipstick, foundation, etc.), the container can comprise a mechanism, notably with a rack, or with a threaded rod, or with a helical groove, suitable for moving a stick towards said opening. Such a mechanism is described for example in patent FR 2 806 273 or in patent FR 2 775 566. Such a mechanism for a liquid product is described in patent FR 2 727 609.

The invention is described in more detail in the following examples.

Method of Measurement of Viscosity

The viscosity of the polymer at 80° C. or at 110° C. is measured using a cone-plate viscosimeter of the BROOKFIELD CAP 1000+ type.

The appropriate cone is determined by a person skilled in the art, on the basis of his knowledge; notably:

• • between 50 and 500 mPa·s, cone O₂ can be used
  • between 500 and 1000 mPa·s: cone 03
  • between 1000 and 4000 mPa·s: cone 05
  • between 4000 and 10000 mPa·s: cone 06

EXAMPLE 1

Synthesis of Pentaerythrityl Benzoate/Isophthalate/Isostearate

Put 20 g benzoic acid, 280 g isostearic acid and 100 g pentaerythritol in a reactor equipped with a mechanical stirrer, an argon feed pipe and a distillation system, then heat progressively, under a gentle stream of argon, to 110-130° C. to obtain a homogeneous solution. Then gradually raise the temperature to 180° C. and hold at this temperature for about 2 hours. Next, raise the temperature to 220° C. and hold at this temperature until an acid number less than or equal to 1 is obtained, which takes about 11 hours. Cool to a temperature between 100 and 130° C., then add 100 g isophthalic acid and heat again gradually to 220° C. for about 11 hours.

In this way, 405 g of pentaerythrityl benzoate/isophthalate/isostearate polycondensate is obtained in the form of a very thick oil.

The polycondensate has the following characteristics:

• • soluble to 50 wt. %, at 25° C., in Parleam
  • Acid number=3.7
  • Hydroxyl number=72
  • Mw=59400
  • η_{110° C.}=1510 mPa·s
  • ratio of the number of moles of aromatic monocarboxylic acid to the number of moles of non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid: 0.16.

EXAMPLE 2

Synthesis of Pentaerythrityl Benzoate/Isophthalate/Isostearate

Put 35 g benzoic acid, 270 g isostearic acid and 80 g pentaerythritol in a reactor equipped with a mechanical stirrer, an argon feed pipe and a distillation system, then heat progressively, under a gentle stream of argon, to 110-130° C. to obtain a homogeneous solution. Then gradually raise the temperature to 180° C. and hold at this temperature for about 2 hours. Next, raise the temperature to 220° C. and hold at this temperature until an acid number less than or equal to 1 is obtained, which takes about 11 hours. Cool to a temperature between 100 and 130° C., then add 65 g isophthalic acid and heat again gradually to 220° C. for about 5 hours.

In this way, 380 g of pentaerythrityl benzoate/isophthalate/isostearate polycondensate is obtained in the form of an oil.

The polycondensate has the following characteristics:

• • soluble to 50 wt. %, at 25° C., in Parleam
  • Acid number=5.5
  • Hydroxyl number=103
  • Mw=7200
  • η_{80° C.}=700 mPa·s
  • ratio of the number of moles of aromatic monocarboxylic acid to the number of moles of non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid: 0.30.

EXAMPLE 3

Synthesis of Pentaerythrityl Benzoate/Isophthalate/Stearate

Put 10 g benzoic acid, 370 g stearic acid and 95 g pentaerythritol in a reactor equipped with a mechanical stirrer, an argon feed pipe and a distillation system, then heat progressively, under a gentle stream of argon, to 110-130° C. to obtain a homogeneous solution. Then gradually raise the temperature to 180° C. and hold at this temperature for about 2 hours. Next, raise the temperature to 220° C. and hold at this temperature until an acid number less than or equal to 1 is obtained, which takes about 11 hours. Cool to a temperature between 100 and 130° C., then add 909 isophthalic acid and heat again gradually to 220° C. for about 11 hours.

In this way, 430 g of pentaerythrityl benzoate/isophthalate/stearate polycondensate is obtained in the form of a very thick oil.

The polycondensate has the following characteristics:

• • soluble to 50 wt. %, at 70° C., in Parleam
  • Acid number=10.8
  • Mw=8800
  • η_{80° C.}=360 mPa·s

EXAMPLES A TO R

The following polycondensates are prepared, as in the preceding examples (percentages by weight):

			Polycarboxylic
			acid or	Non-aromatic
	Polyol	Aromatic acid	anhydride	acid
	(% and type)	(% and type)	(% and type)	(% and type)	Solubility*
Example A	21.6	3.9	19.5	27.5%	at 25° C.
	pentaerythritol	benzoic	isophthalic	isostearic +
			acid	27.5%
				isononanoic
Example B	16.8	1.8	15.9	65.5	at 70° C.
	pentaerythritol	benzoic	isophthalic	behenic
			acid
Example C	20	4	20	56	at 25° C.
	pentaerythritol	terbutyl-	isophthalic	isostearic
		benzoic	acid
Example D	17.4	8.6	16	58	at 25° C.
	glycerol	benzoic	isophthalic	isostearic
			acid
Example E	20.7	8.5	15.9	54.9	at 25° C.
	glycerol	terbutyl-	acid	isononanoic
		benzoic	adipic
Example F	25.5	2	13.7	58.8	at 25° C.
	diglycerol	benzoic	isophthalic	isononanoic
			acid
Example G	28	2	14	56	at 25° C.
	ditrimethylol-	1-naphthoic	isophthalic	isostearic
	propane		acid
Example H	25.2	5.8	12.6	56.3	at 25° C.
	trimethylol-	benzoic	isophthalic	isononanoic
	propane		acid
Example I	25	2.1	14.6	58.3	at 25° C.
	trimethylol-	m-toluic	phthalic	isostearic
	propane		anhydride
Example J	21.9	6.3	13.5	58.3	at 25° C.
	erythritol	terbutyl-	sebacic	isooctanoic
		benzoic	acid
Example K	20.4	6.1	20.4	53.1	at 25° C.
	dipenta-	benzoic	PRIPOL	isostearic
	erythritol		1009**
Example L	28	2	14	40%	at 25° C.
	ditrimethylol-	1-naphthoic	isophthalic	isostearic +
	propane		acid	16%
				2-ethylhexanoic
Example M	21.3	6.4	17	27.7%	at 25° C.
	pentaerythritol	benzoic	succinic	nonanoic +
			acid	27.6%
				isoheptanoic
Example N	17.4	8.6	16	58	at 70° C.
	glycerol	benzoic	isophthalic	stearic
			acid
Example O	25.5	2	13.7	58.8	at 70° C.
	diglycerol	benzoic	isophthalic	myristic
			acid
Example P	25.5	3.9	15.7	54.9	at 70° C.
	diglycerol	benzoic	sebacic	lauric
			acid
Example Q	20.4	6.1	20.4	53.1	at 70° C.
	dipenta-	benzoic	PRIPOL	behenic
	erythritol		1009**
Example R	25.2	5.8	12.6	31.1%	at 70° C.
	trimethylol-	benzoic	isophthalic	stearic +
	propane		acid	25.3%
				behenic
*‘at 25° C.’ indicates that the polymer is soluble to 50 wt. %, at 25° C., in Parleam; ‘at 70° C.’ indicates that the polymer is soluble to 50 wt. %, at 70° C., in Parleam
**PRIPOL 1009 from Uniqema: dimer of oleic acid

EXAMPLE 4

Lipstick

A lipstick having the following composition was prepared:

	polycondensate from Example 2	30	g
	polyethylene wax	11	g
	pigments and fillers	7	g
	Parleam (hydrogenated isoparaffin)	qsf 100	g

After application on the lips, a coloured, glossy film is obtained, which remains glossy for at least 2 hours.

EXAMPLE 5

Synthesis of Pentaerythrityl Benzoate/Isophthalate/Isostearate/Stearate

Put 20 g benzoic acid, 210 g stearic acid, 70 g isostearic acid and 100 g pentaerythritol in a reactor equipped with a mechanical stirrer, an argon feed pipe and a distillation system, then heat progressively, under a gentle stream of argon, to 110-130° C. to obtain a homogeneous solution. Then gradually raise the temperature to 180° C. and hold at this temperature for about 2 hours. Next, raise the temperature to 220° C. and hold at this temperature until an acid number less than or equal to 1 is obtained, which takes about 11 hours. Cool to a temperature between 100 and 130° C., then add 100 g isophthalic acid and heat again gradually to 220° C. for about 11 hours.

In this way, 450 g of pentaerythrityl benzoate/isophthalate/isostearate/stearate polycondensate is obtained in the form of a very thick oil.

The polycondensate has the following characteristics:

• • soluble to 50 wt. %, at 70° C., in Parleam
  • Acid number=7.1
  • η_{110° C.}=850 mPa·s
  • Mw=28500
  • ratio of the number of moles of aromatic monocarboxylic acid to the number of moles of non-aromatic monocarboxylic acids: 0.166.

EXAMPLE 6

Synthesis of Pentaerythrityl Behenate/Benzoate/Isophthalate/Isostearate

Put 20 g benzoic acid, 140 g behenic acid, 140 g isostearic acid and 100 g pentaerythritol in a reactor equipped with a mechanical stirrer, an argon feed pipe and a distillation system, then heat progressively, under a gentle stream of argon, to 110-130° C. to obtain a homogeneous solution. Then gradually raise the temperature to 180° C. and hold at this temperature for about 2 hours. Next, raise the temperature to 220° C. and hold at this temperature until an acid number less than or equal to 1 is obtained, which takes about 11 hours. Cool to a temperature between 100 and 130° C., then add 100 g isophthalic acid and heat again gradually to 220° C. for about 11 hours.

In this way, 440 g of pentaerythrityl behenate/benzoate/isophthalate/isostearate polycondensate is obtained in the form of a very thick oil.

The polycondensate has the following characteristics:

• • soluble to 50 wt. %, at 70° C., in Parleam
  • Acid number=4.2
  • η_{110° C.}=2050 mPa·s
  • ratio of the number of moles of aromatic monocarboxylic acid to the number of moles of non-aromatic monocarboxylic acids: 0.181.

EXAMPLES a TO j

The following polycondensates are prepared, as in the preceding examples (percentages by weight):

			Polycarboxylic
			acid or	Non-aromatic
	Polyol	Aromatic acid	anhydride	acids
	(% and type)	(% and type)	(% and type)	(% and type)	Solubility*
Example a	20.4	4.1	18.3	28.6%	at 25° C.
	pentaerythritol	benzoic	isophthalic	isostearic +
			acid	14.3%
				isononanoic +
				14.3%
				stearic
Example b	20	4	20	18%	at 25° C.
	pentaerythritol	benzoic	isophthalic	isostearic +
			acid	38%
				stearic
Example c	20	4	20	28%	at 25° C.
	pentaerythritol	benzoic	isophthalic	isostearic +
			acid	28%
				stearic
Example d	19.8	4	19.8	40.6%	at 25° C.
	pentaerythritol	benzoic	isophthalic	isostearic +
			acid	15.8%
				stearic
Example e	19.8	4	19.8	48.5%	at 25° C.
	pentaerythritol	benzoic	isophthalic	isostearic +
			acid	7.9%
				stearic
Example f	19.8	4	19.8	52.4%	at 25° C.
	pentaerythritol	benzoic	isophthalic	isostearic +
			acid	4%
				stearic
Example g	25.5	3.9	15.7	34.9%	at 25° C.
	diglycerol	benzoic	sebacic	isostearic +
			acid	20%
				lauric
Example h	25	2.1	14.6	18.3%	at 70° C.
	trimethylol-	m-toluic	phthalic	isostearic +
	propane		anhydride	40%
				behenic
Example i	21.9	6.3	13.5	8.3%	at 70° C.
	erythritol	terbutyl-	sebacic	isooctanoic +
		benzoic	acid	50%
				stearic
Example j	20.7	8.5	15.9	45.9%	at 25° C.
	glycerol	terbutyl-	adipic	isononanoic +
		benzoic	acid	9%
				behenic
*‘at 25° C.’ indicates that the polymer is soluble to 50 wt. %, at 25° C., in Parleam; ‘at 70° C.’ indicates that the polymer is soluble to 50 wt. %, at 70° C., in Parleam.

EXAMPLE 7

Synthesis of Pentaerythrityl Benzoate/Isophthalate/Laurate/PDMS

Put 150 g benzoic acid, 165 g lauric acid and 110 g pentaerythritol in a reactor equipped with a mechanical stirrer, an argon feed pipe and a distillation system, then heat progressively, under a gentle stream of argon, to 110-130° C. to obtain a homogeneous solution. Then gradually raise the temperature to 180° C. and hold at this temperature for about 2 hours. Next, raise the temperature to 220° C. and hold at this temperature until an acid number less than or equal to 1 is obtained, which takes about 15 hours. Cool to a temperature between 100 and 130° C., then add 90 g isophthalic acid and 50 g of Silicone α,ω diol X22-160AS from Shin-Etsu, and heat again gradually to 220° C. for about 11 hours.

In this way, 510 g of pentaerythrityl benzoate/isophthalate/laurate/PDMS polycondensate is obtained in the form of a thick oil, which solidifies at room temperature.

The polycondensate has the following characteristics:

• • Acid number=28.7
  • Hydroxyl number=85
  • η_{110° C.}=2.1 poise (i.e. 210 mPa·s)
  • ratio of the number of moles of aromatic monocarboxylic acid to the number of moles of non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid: 1.49.

Take 500 g of the polycondensate obtained above, heat it at 70° C. and slowly pour in 215 g of ethyl acetate while stirring, then clarify by hot filtration on a No. 2 frit. After cooling to room temperature, we obtain 705 g of solution of polycondensate at 70% in ethyl acetate in the form of a pale yellow viscous liquid having a viscosity at 25° C. of about 165 centipoise (mPa·s).

EXAMPLE 8

Synthesis of Pentaerythrityl Benzoate/Isophthalate/Laurate

Put 165 g benzoic acid, 160 g lauric acid and 120 g pentaerythritol in a reactor equipped with a mechanical stirrer, an argon feed pipe and a distillation system, then heat progressively, under a gentle stream of argon, to 110-130° C. to obtain a homogeneous solution. Then gradually raise the temperature to 180° C. and hold at this temperature for about 2 hours. Next, raise the temperature to 220° C. and hold at this temperature until an acid number less than or equal to 1 is obtained, which takes about 15 hours. Cool to a temperature between 100 and 130° C., then add 100 g isophthalic acid and heat again gradually to 220° C. for about 12 hours.

In this way, 510 g of pentaerythrityl benzoate/isophthalate/laurate polycondensate is obtained in the form of a thick oil, which solidifies at room temperature.

The polycondensate has the following characteristics:

• • Acid number=20.4
  • Hydroxyl number=66
  • η_{110° C.}=4.7 poise (i.e. 470 mPa·s)
  • ratio of the number of moles of aromatic monocarboxylic acid to the number of moles of non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid: 1.69.

Take 500 g of the polycondensate obtained above, heat it at 70° C. and slowly pour in 215 g of ethyl acetate while stirring, then clarify by hot filtration on a No. 2 frit. After cooling to room temperature, we obtain 700 g of solution of polycondensate at 70% in ethyl acetate in the form of a pale yellow viscous liquid having a viscosity at 25° C. of about 310 centipoise (mPa·s).

EXAMPLE 9

Synthesis of Pentaerythrityl Benzoate/Phthalate/Laurate

Put 185 g benzoic acid, 174 g lauric acid and 114.6 g pentaerythritol in a reactor equipped with a mechanical stirrer, an argon feed pipe and a distillation system, then heat progressively, under a gentle stream of argon, to 110-130° C. to obtain a homogeneous solution. Then gradually raise the temperature to 180° C. and hold at this temperature for about 2 hours. Next, raise the temperature to 220° C. and hold at this temperature until an acid number less than or equal to 1 is obtained, which takes about 18 hours. Cool to a temperature between 100 and 130° C., then add 80 g phthalic anhydride and heat again gradually to 220° C. for about 8 hours. Add 15 g pentaerythritol and hold at 220° C. for 8 hours.

In this way, 512 g of pentaerythrityl benzoate/phthalate/laurate polycondensate is obtained in the form of a thick oil, which solidifies at room temperature.

The polycondensate has the following characteristics:

• • Acid number=13.0
  • Hydroxyl number=60
  • η_{110° C.}=0.9 poise (i.e. 90 mPa·s)
  • ratio of the number of moles of aromatic monocarboxylic acid to the number of moles of non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid: 1.74.

EXAMPLE 10

Lipstick

Ingredients (INCI name)	% W
A	TRIMETHYL PENTAPHENYL TRISILOXANE	53.05
	POLYESTER FROM EXAMPLE 1	20.00
B	ETHYLENE HOMOPOLYMER	1.00
C	POLYESTER FROM EXAMPLE 3	6.00
	POLY(VINYL LAURATE)	6.00
	VINYL ACETATE/ALLYL STEARATE COPOLYMER	7.00
D	RUTILE TITANIUM DIOXIDE TREATED WITH	0.20
	ALUMINA/SILICA/TRIMETHYOLPROPANE
	BRILLIANT BLUE FCF ALUMINIUM LAKE ON	0.20
	ALUMINA
	BROWN, YELLOW IRON OXIDES	0.95
	TARTRAZINE ALUMINIUM LAKE ON ALUMINA	0.85
	CALCIUM SALT OF LITHOL B RED	0.45
E	MICA-TITANIUM DIOXIDE	2.80
	MICA-TITANIUM DIOXIDE	1.00
	MICA-TITANIUM DIOXIDE	0.50
Total	100.00
Measurement of wet gloss at T 0 hour	43
Measurement of wet gloss at T 1 hour	40
Hardness	213

The procedure is entirely conventional: Melt phase B at 95-100° C. Then pulverize phase D in phase A. Next, add phase C to the molten phase B in a Rayneri, then add phase E after homogenization. The paste obtained is poured at 95° C. into a mould at 42° C. Cool the sticks to −4° C. before removing them from the mould.

Wet gloss and hardness are measured as described previously.

Claims

1. A solid cosmetic composition, comprising:

from 0.1 to 70 wt. % of at least one polyester, relative to a total weight of the cosmetic composition;

wherein the at least one polyester is obtained by reaction of:

at least one polyol comprising 3 to 6 hydroxyl groups;

at least one non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid;

at least one aromatic monocarboxylic acid; and

at least one polycarboxylic acid comprising at least 2 carboxyl groups and/or cyclic anhydride of such polycarboxylic acid.

2. The composition according to claim 1 claim 1, wherein the at least one polyester is obtained by reaction of:

from 10 to 30 wt. % of the at least one polyol comprising 3 to 6 hydroxyl groups relative to the total weight of the polyester;

from 30 to 80 wt. % of at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched and/or cyclic non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid, comprising 6 to 32 carbon atoms relative to the total weight of the polyester;

from 0.1 to 10 wt. % of at least one aromatic monocarboxylic acid comprising 7 to 11 carbon atoms, optionally substituted additional with 1 to 3 saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched and/or cyclic alkyl radicals, which comprise 1 to 32 carbon atoms relative to the total weight of the polyester; and

from 5 to 40 wt. % of at least one saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, linear, branched and/or cyclic polycarboxylic acid comprising at least 2 carboxyl groups; and/or a cyclic anhydride of such polycarboxylic acid relative to the total weight of the polyester.

3. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the polyol is a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon compound comprising from 3 to 18 carbon atoms and from 3 to 6 hydroxyl groups.

4. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the polyol comprises at least one member selected from the group consisting of glycerol, pentaerythritol, diglycerol and sorbitol.

5. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid is given by the formula RCOOH, in which R is a saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched and/or cyclic hydrocarbon radical comprising from 5 to 31 carbon atoms.

6. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid comprises at least one member selected from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexanoic acid, isooctanoic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, isoheptanoic acid, isononanoic acid, nonanoic acid, palmitic acid, isostearic acid, stearic acid and behenic acid.

7. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid is present in an amount of from 40 to 75 wt. % based on a total weight of the polyester.

8. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the aromatic monocarboxylic acid is given by the formula R′COOH, in which R′ is an aromatic hydrocarbon radical comprising from 6 to 10 carbon atoms.

9. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the aromatic monocarboxylic acid comprises at least one member selected from the group consisting of benzoic acid, 4-tert-butyl-benzoic acid, o-toluic acid, m-toluic acid and 1-napththoic acid.

10. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the aromatic monocarboxylic acid is present in an amount of from 0.5 to 9.95 wt. % based on a total weight of the polyester.

11. The composition according to claim 1, wherein:

the polycarboxylic acid or cyclic anhydride thereof comprises a linear, branched and/or cyclic, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic polycarboxylic acid comprising from 2 to 50 carbon atoms; and

the polycarboxylic acid or cyclic anhydride thereof comprises at least two carboxyl groups.

12. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the polycarboxylic acid or cyclic anhydride thereof is aromatic and comprises from 8 to 12 carbon atoms.

13. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the polycarboxylic acid or cyclic anhydride thereof comprises at least one member selected from the group consisting of adipic acid, phthalic anhydride and isophthalic acid.

14. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the polycarboxylic acid or cyclic anhydride thereof is present in an amount of from 10 to 30 wt. %, based on a total weight of the polyester.

15. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid does not contain a free OH group.

16. The composition according to claim 1, wherein a ratio of a number of moles of the aromatic monocarboxylic acid to a number of moles of the non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid is from 0.08 to 0.70.

17. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the polyester is obtained by reaction of:

at least one polyol comprising at least one member selected from the group consisting of glycerol, pentaerythritol and sorbitol in an amount of from 10 to 30 wt. % relative to a total weight of the polyester;

at least one non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid comprising at least one member selected from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexanoic acid, isooctanoic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, isostearic acid, isononanoic acid, stearic acid and behenic acid in an amount of from 30 to 80 wt. % relative to a total weight of the polyester;

at least one aromatic monocarboxylic acid comprising at least one member selected from the group consisting of benzoic acid, o-toluic acid, m-toluic acid, 1-naphthoic acid in an amount of from 0.1 to 10 wt. % relative to a total weight of the polyester; and

at least one polycarboxylic acid or cyclic anhydride thereof comprising at least one member selected from the group consisting of phthalic anhydride and isophthalic acid in an amount of from 5 to 40 wt. % relative to a total weight of the polyester.

18. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the polyester is present in an amount of from 1 to 50 wt. % relative to the total weight of the composition.

19. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition is in the form of mascara, lipstick, lip gloss, blusher, eye shadow, or foundation.

20. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition is in the form of a stick, or cast in a pot.

21. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition has a hardness of from 30 to 300 g.

22. A cast cosmetic compositions, comprising:

a benzoic acid/isophthalic acid/isostearic acid/pentaerythritol polymer;

a benzoic acid/isophthalic acid/stearic acid/pentaerythritol polymer; or

a mixture thereof.