Abstract: A cuff measuring device for tailors, including a thumb cap, an elongated portion and a slide, the thumb cap sized to receive the tip of a person's thumb, the elongated portion including indicia for measuring and being joined to the thumb cap and the slide providing a cuff rest and a chalk carriage, the slide being slidably mounted to the elongated portion to adjust the cuff rest against a garment cuff, the chalk carriage, including chalk providing a sliding mechanism for marking the garment for folding or cutting.

Abstract: A method for making a cutting guide, the cutting guide being formed from a measuring device and a sheet of material, with the measuring device having a top surface, a bottom surface, and p of graduations marked on one or the other of the top and bottom surfaces, with the sheet of material having a thickness in the range of 1 mm. to 5 mm. and further having adhesive on one side. The method includes measuring at least one cutting line on the step of material in accordance with predetermined dimensions; cutting the sheet of material along the cutting line to form of at least one piece of material having the predetermined dimensions; and forming a mechanical stop on the bottom surface of the measuring device by placing the adhesive side of the piece of material on the bottom surface of the measuring device.

Abstract: A continuously weft-knitted three-dimensional fabric cover having sutures to accommodate its three-dimensional format in which each suture defines a straight line or a series of straight lines joined end-to-end, each straight line lying at an angle of between 0.degree. and 50.degree. to the course-wise direction of the fabric.

Abstract: A three-dimensional pattern design method for garments fitted with sleeves concerns a general pattern method for speedily designing garments for men, women and children without further alterations being required. The method is characterized by the use of a particular structural line (A1-G-A3) determined by the body's morphology and attitude, by specific proportional calculations of the waistline, the collar and shoulder slope using reference values (Vx, Vy), by a specific relational and three-dimensional calculation of the armhole-sleeve fitting using transfer lines (G-C, G-C1) defining a reference value (Vz), by the calculation of two tension points (P, P1) for enabling a proper fitting of the garment to the shoulder, and by a single drawing line incorporating all the garment's basic components into the assembly plan. The method according to the invention is especially suitable for use in the dressmaking industry.

Abstract: The invention relates to a system and method for the preparation of sets of patterns from which material is cut and garments produced from the cut material. Each of the patterns has formed thereon stitchlines and a number of the stitchlines are to be joined together to form a seam. The invention lies in the provision of an ease factor in the stitchlines to allow for stretch and irregularity in the material, wherein the ease factor is calculated as a percentage of a designated dominant stitchline and included in the lengths of the subservient stitchlines which are to be joined to the dominant stitchline to form the seam. The sets of patterns can be input to a computer, graded for different size of garments and the ease factors checked by computer.

Abstract: A basic formula of active layout drawing in pants tailoring to make use of all the data obtained from measure around the waistline, measure around the hip between waistline and hip, measure around the hip, front measure from waistline to gore bottom, back measure from waistline to gore bottom, measure of full gore line, measure around the upper thigh, measure around the middle thigh, measure around the knee, measure around the calf, and the determination of the position of the middle thigh for making an active layout drawing to fit all kinds of figures of the body.

Abstract: A garment kit and method of assembly thereof for sale to a consumer-wearer, for the self assembly of a garment by the consumer-wearer, said kit including a partially prefabricated garment comprising a precut fabric dimensioned to cover a plurality of sizes; said precut fabric being provided with attachment markings thereon corresponding to said plurality of sizes; and said precut fabric already being provided with at least one substantially finished detail. Additionally, a measurement system for the production of both garment kits and fully fabricated garments, wherein a range of sizes, each of which is determined by a plurality of measurements, is divided into subranges, with one of the measurements being maintained substantially constant over the sizes of a subrange. Preferably the subranges overlap.

Abstract: A method of drawing a pattern for custom-tailored skirts in terms of taking into account a person's bodily dimensions, including measures around the waistline, around the largest part of the abdomen, another part of the abdomen thereabove, around the lower and lowermost hip, around the upper hip, various lateral distances between selected of the foregoing measures, the selected length of the skirt, and deviations from a standard body figure in terms of lateral deviations of portions of the wearer's body from a straight vertical line making contact with a laterally most protruding part of the wearer's body.

Abstract: A template for guiding a cutting tool for cutting cloth, paper, or the like is provided having a transparent body, a marked seam allowance, and a handle for accurate repetitive cutting of simple or complex pattern shapes.

Abstract: A convenient method and simple apparatus for cutting one or more layers of planar material, such as fabric into uniform, geometric shapes, involving the use of relatively small, thin geometrically shaped magnetic templates. The method and apparatus is particularly useful in preparing fabric pieces to be sewn together in order to produce a patchwork quilt.

Abstract: A method is disclosed by which an article of art comprising a mosaic-like pictorial design may be made. The pictorial design comprises an arrangement of a plurality of flat, colored pieces of material, with each piece having the configuration of a square, a triangle or a rectangle. The pieces are pictorially arranged by visually following a separate, mosaic-like pattern of numerically color-coded shapes which lie on a grid pattern of intersecting transverse and longitudinal lines which form rows of equal-sized squares and wherein the coded shapes are square, with the size of a grid square, triangular, and rectangular; the triangular shape formed by diagonally bisecting a square, and each rectangular shape by bisecting a square with a line parallel to a transverse or longitudinal line.

Abstract: The present invention provides a method of preparing a pattern drawing in upper body tailoring by making use of the data obtained from the measure of shoulder depth, arm girth at armpit, shoulder width, back width, neck base girth, back waist length, front waist length, bust point length, chest girth, breast depth, bust breadth, and abdomen depth. The pattern drawing fits all kinds of body figures.

Abstract: In a process of preparing a sketch to be used as a pattern for custom-tailoring at least a portion of a garment from selected material to fit a human figure of predetermined dimensions, the sketch is derived from a basic configuration for the desired portion of the garment, but in which selected dimensions are chosen in accordance with a set of predetermined measurements of the torso of the wearer.

Abstract: A garment pattern for action wearables is adapted for use with knitted elastomeric stretch fabrics. An original pattern suitable for rigid woven materials is initially modified to remove body ease and to reconfigure the pattern. This modified pattern is then a starting point for reductions in length and width which are dictated by the individual stretch characteristics of a particular knitted elastomeric fabric which will be used to make the finished garment. Pattern length and width reduction are applied to the modified pattern in a specific manner to arrive at the adapted stretch pattern.

Abstract: A garment kit and method of assembly thereof for sale to a consumer-wearer, for the self assembly of a garment by the consumer-wearer, said kit including a partially prefabricated garment comprising a precut fabric dimensioned to cover a plurality of sizes; said precut fabric being provided with attachment markings thereon corresponding to said plurality of sizes; and said precut fabric already being provided with at least one substantially finished detail.

Abstract: There is disclosed a garment drafting device which includes curves meeting certain equations which facilitate the design and creation of garments. In addition, there are disclosed methods for preparing sleeves which are an improvement over the art, and which facilitate the steps of creating the sleeves. Different sleeves may be created. In the garment drafting device, the creation of a new type of curve provides a device for readily obtaining the required curvature for patterns and the like.

Abstract: When a pattern having a contour suitable for producing cutting templates is selected from existing patterns, these patterns (10, 30) are laid on top of one another, specifically in such a way that the reference zones (21, 51) and the reference points (20, 50) are located on top of one another. The position of selection mark (70) is then selected in relation to the contours of the said patterns. For example, that pattern having a contour nearest to the selection mark (70) can be conceded as usable.In this way, existing patterns for producing new cutting templates relating to a specific part of a garment can be located and then also used.

Abstract: A method is disclosed for the determination of the shape of a flat section of fabric prior to application of the fabric to a curved surface.

Abstract: A method for marking a fabric for sewing, cutting, or the like includes placing a plurality of markers on the fabric at positions instructing how the fabric is to be manipulated. The markers are differentiable according to the instructions to be conveyed, are adhesively backed, and are distinguishable from the fabric when applied. A sewing aid includes a plurality of such markers.

Abstract: An apparatus for attaching a pair of fastener elements of a garment fastener to a garment fabric, comprises an optical indicator for designating a position of the garment fabric where the two fastener elements are to be attached. The indicator includes a light projector having a light source for projecting a beam of light, a reflector for reflecting the light beam downwardly, and means defining an aperture for the passage therethrough of the reflected light beam. An actuator is operatively connected to the light projector for reciprocating the same toward and away from a position where the aperture is in registry with a common vertical axis of the two fastener elements. The indicator is structurally and functionally separated from a pusher mechanism for supplying one fastener element to an upper unit of the apparatus.

Abstract: A device to improve and simplify techniques in needlework construction is disclosed which utilizes a porous resilient surface and a dense backing structure. The resilient surface is divided into two equal main working areas by a main indicator and each of the two main working areas are divided into smaller working areas by a plurality of secondary indicators. The purpose of the main and secondary indicators is to provide proper alignment of clothing materials placed on the device and more particularly with respect to completing a smocking apparatus. The purpose of the alignment indicators is to provide a series of work areas whereby a pre-pleated material can be pinned and retained while the smocking stitching is accomplished.

Abstract: This is a method of cutting out a front part of clothing and the like. A human body is drawn as a flat stereoscopic projection without breasts, then a basic original pattern piece (1) used as a body form is divided into a plurality of segments a.sub.1, a.sub.2, a.sub.3, a.sub.4 along a plurality of cutting lines (13, 14, 15, 16) toward the periphery from a bust point BP as the center, the segments a.sub.1, a.sub.2, a.sub.3, a.sub.4 are moved in response to measured personal dimensions and are placed so as to conform to the clothing of the design required. The profile of the figure is then used to obtain pattern pieces X.sub.1, X.sub.2, X.sub.3 for the front, and the cloth is cut out using the pattern pieces. When clothing of a design having darts is fabricated, triangular notches (18, 21, 23) are formed in the pattern pieces X.sub.1, X.sub.2, X.sub.3 to obtain darts (19, 20, 22) at the desired cutting positions indicated by the cutting lines (13, 14, 15, 16) and these are cut out.

Abstract: A method for converting a pattern for a first garment to a pattern for a second garment, where the first garment includes front and back, body and shoulder portions with sleeves extending from shoulder holes between those front and back portions. The regions of the body and shoulder portion adjacent to the sleeve-to-shoulder seam are non-parallel with respect to regions of the sleeve portions adjacent to that seam when the body and shoulder portions are positioned in a plane. The second garment has the same outer contour as the first garment, including front and back body portions with a shoulder hole between those front and back body portions. Separate, generally tubular sleeve and shoulder portions having a sleeve and shoulder seams extending along their lengths, have one end joined to the perimeters of the shoulder holes along shoulder-to-body seams.

Abstract: A method of grading a series of brassieres of like styling for women having the same body dimension except for breast sizes is provided. Each brassiere includes a pair of breast receiving cups for supporting the breasts of a woman, and body encircling components associated with the pair of breast receiving cups and sized to fit around the body of each woman. The method includes the steps of measuring the diaphragm dimension and body chest dimension of a woman having average sized breasts for the series of brassieres, determining by formula the breast size of the woman having average sized breasts based upon the measurements of the diaphragm and body chest dimensions, and reducing the size of the breast receiving cups while maintaining substantially the same the length of the body encircling components to accommodate a desired breast size of a second woman having less than the determined average breast size.

Abstract: The invention disclosed concerns a method of selecting a standard glove size. The method includes the steps of selecting a pair of two dimensional measurements which are correlated to hand volume, dividing a population of hand volumes into a predetermined number of approximately equally populated subgroup ranges, plotting two dimensional chart areas for each subgroup based upon intersections of the selected two dimensional measurements with reference to a predetermined point on the chart, and assigning one of the standard sizes to each chart area. The method further includes the steps of placing a hand on the predetermined point and plotting the intersection of the pair of two dimensional measurements for the hand to select the proper standard glove size. The chart can include areas for both left and right hands and the predetermined point can abut the web space between the middle and index fingers on the hand.

Abstract: A means and method for designing and fabricating garments, particularly suited for the home sewer. Using a stretch body suit having cushioned areas, muslin panels are draped on the individual wearing the suit to conform to the individual shapes and contours. The muslin panels form a basic pattern which include front and back portions of a bodice, a basic fitted skirt, and basic pants. The pattern is used to provide a corresponding plurality of oak tag slopers which may be manipulated to provide a variety of designs relative to the individual slopers. These slopers, manipulated into new designs, are used to make paper patterns which are in turn used as a guide in cutting actual garment sections which are stitched together to provide a completed garment which fits the individual with little or no alteration.

Abstract: Pattern pieces of a conventional foundation pattern draft are divided into segments along predetermined division lines. Various segments of different overall sizes are joined together and form a new pattern piece. The segments selected for combination into the new pattern piece more precisely fit and accommodate major fitting and structural areas of the body. Adjustment lines are marked on various segments forming the pattern piece. Dividing the pattern piece along the adjustment lines and overlapping the resulting edges of separating the resulting edges or horizontally shifting one resulting piece from another achieves vertical and horizontal adjustment in the pattern piece. A transfer technique involving angular pivotation of one defined portion or sector of the new pattern piece with respect to the remaining portion of the pattern piece in conjunction with other adjustments achieves further adjustment and precise fitting of the pattern piece.

Abstract: A plurality of identical, irregular, non-polygonal pieces, such as motorcycle silhouette games pieces, are cut from flat stock of predetermined width and indefinite length with minimum waste of the stock, by laying out a gang cutter "pattern", "marker" or "stencil" in a sequence of steps comprising (1) "boxing in" the curved outline of one non-polygonal piece to form a plane polygonal figure of three sides or more, (2) combining two such polygonal figures into a parallelogram, (3) nesting any protuberance in one piece into any recess in the other piece to reduce the area of the parallelogram (4) laying out a plurality of said parallelograms side by side across the width of the stock and (5) successively cutting the resulting pattern from the stock by a gang cutter arranged in the pattern.

Abstract: A dress pattern adapted from a master pattern that is of variable size and has a bodice section and a skirt section which are separate but adjacent one another. The pattern is based on the concept of graded measurements at the periphery of the pattern. With the exception of the center front section, the pattern is characterized by having a center front section, a front neckline, a shoulder seam, a front armhole, an underarm seam and a bust dart. The skirt section itself is characterized by the addition of graded measurements on each section.

Abstract: A system in which a plurality of members or guides are applied in sequence and utilized in combination for aiding in the selection and/or modification of the paper patterns used for making garments. The system includes shoulder seam defining members, a back pattern size indicating member, and shoulder slope indicating members, all of which are used to establish those dimensions and relationships found to be critical in such selection and/or modification of garment patterns.

Abstract: The assembly of articles of wearing apparel, particularly from fabric bearing a design, is facilitated by establishing reference markings along at least two adjacent sides of a length of material. Patterns, which include intersecting perpendicular guide lines, are positioned on the length of material employing a positioning plan which establishes a relationship between the guide lines and reference markings commensurate with the desired appearance of the garment being produced.

Abstract: A kit is provided for the fabrication of a custom fit garment. The outline of the individual patterns for the pieces forming the garment are preprinted in spaced relation on one or more lengths of fabric. In turn the pieces form a finished garment when joined according to the instructions provided. The patterns are sized for nominal dimensions with alterations capable of being made in the length and width of the garment by adding or subtracting as much as two inches at each seam. The alterations are preplanned by comparing actual measurements of the wearer with the known finished dimensions of a nominal size garment and properly adjusting the dimensions accordingly. Surplus material provided allows repair of the finished garment or the addition of accessories. This custom fit alteration method can also be applied to the common paper pattern style of garment making.

Abstract: The method of fitting a garment on a particular person by adjusting the placement of the garment on the person to locate the portion of the garment having the maximum perimeter substantially over the portion of the person having the maximum perimeter. For fitting a pair of pants on a person, a pattern inset is provided wherein the crotch of the pants is adjusted to provide a seat curve and to locate the maximum hip perimeter of the pants over the maximum hip perimeter of the person.

Abstract: The pattern of a room to be covered by a sheet vinyl or other sheet material is determined by using a roll of paper, which has pressure sensitive adhesive bands on both sides, each covered with a release paper. The paper is placed around the periphery of the room with a portion of the paper projecting up the wall. The paper is then affixed to the floor by removing the release paper from the adhesive on the underside of the paper, pressed into the intersections of the wall and floor and cut with a knife to conform to the periphery dimensions of the floor thereby creating a floor dimension pattern or template. The sheet vinyl or other sheet flooring material is then placed over the paper pattern or template in such a manner that it projects slightly up the wall. After it is laid out in this manner, the release paper is removed from the adhesive on the upper side of the paper pattern or template by picking up the sheet flooring from the paper pattern or template and pulling off the release strip.

Abstract: A method for garment pattern drafting for developing proportioned or graded slopers employing a grid or graphical display based upon quarter-inch spaces and comprising a series of parallel vertical and horizontal intersecting lines, the vertical series being equispaced a number of quarter-inch spaces and sixteenth-inch fractions thereof expressed as the quotient resulting from quartering the larger of actual measurements taken around the human figure, and the horizontal series being equispaced a number of quarter-inch spaces and sixteenth-inch fractions thereof expressed as the sum of the quotient of the actual centerfront measurement taken from the same figure plus a factor of two quarter-inch spaces. Suitable mounting means for the grid as well as rule members carrying a scale for marking off distances in terms of said quarter spaces are provided for constructing the grid.

Abstract: A predetermined symmetrical pattern is sewn on a canvas by applying a flexible adhering sheet having printed thereon indications of a gridwork corresponding to the gridwork of the canvas. The flexible sheet is of substantially smaller area than the canvas and indicates STITCHES and paths to be followed. The edges of the flexible sheet gridwork are aligned with the canvas gridwork while they are joined together. The canvas is then sewn with a first set of stitches to establish paths and STITCHES illustrated by the paths on the flexible sheet. The flexible sheet is removed and a second set of stitches is sewn to complete the paths established by the first set of stitches.

Abstract: Patchwork is produced by preparing patch shapes each consisting of a sheet of relatively rigid material such as thin cardboard, adhering said patches to the fabric to be used for the patchwork with a strippable adhesive, cutting out the patches with a seaming edge as needed around the individual patches, sewing the patches together while maintaining the rigid material in contact to protect the fabric against wrinkling and soiling during the operation, and then stripping the rigid material with the adhesive adhering thereto. The method is facilitated by laying out the design on the thin cardboard carrying the strippable adhesive and a protective strippable backing; the design can then be cut into individual patches or the cardboard can be cut without cutting the backing layer, so that the individual cardboard patch patterns can be stripped from the design sheet and adhered directly to the fabric.

Abstract: A method of making both full size and miniature replicas of patterns on photographic film from conventional paperboard clothing patterns. The full size clothing pattern replicas on film may be arranged directly on a conventional marker sheet in place of the paperboard clothing patterns. The miniature pattern replicas may be arranged on miniature marker sheet replicas constructed to the same scale as the miniature pattern replicas. The layout may be copied and the copy of the miniature pattern layout may be used as a guide in laying out full size patterns or pattern replicas on a marker sheet or the copy may be enlarged and reproduced to its original scale on a light sensitive marker sheet. The clothing pattern replicas may be formed with integral blocking borders or blocking lines.

Abstract: A method for garment pattern drafting for developing proportioned or graded slopers employing a grid or graphical display based upon quarter-inch spaces and comprising a series of parallel vertical and horizontal intersecting lines, the vertical series being equispaced a number of quarter-inch spaces and sixteenth-inch fractions thereof expressed as the quotient resulting from quartering the larger of actual measurements taken around the human figure, and the horizontal series being equispaced a number of quarter-inch spaces and sixteenth-inch fractions thereof expressed as the sum of the quotient of the actual centerfront measurement taken from the same figure plus a factor of two quarter-inch spaces. Suitable mounting means for the grid as well as rule members carrying a scale for marking off distances in terms of said quarter spaces are provided for constructing the grid.

Abstract: A flexible garment pattern is formed from a self-supporting plastic shell initially placed on a mannequin. The shell is cut while draped on the mannequin to the desired style and shape and then separated into several pieces of three-dimensional shape. These pieces are used as pattern pieces to cut out fabric pieces for a garment.The mannequin is provided with an adjustable fit plate in the bustline and kicker plates in the leg portion to impart a desired silhouette to the shaped shell.

Abstract: A method and apparatus for altering conventional clothing patterns are disclosed in which a series of measurements taken on a particular individual are used to construct alteration lines on a pattern which facilitate revision of the pattern to produce a garment particularly well fitted to the individual. Most body measurements taken on the individual are measured, directly or indirectly, from the point at which the arm joins the body at the underarm, thereby providing proper placement of armhole openings and appropriate shoulder slope to accomodate the individual's figure. A unique measuring template for facilitating measurements on the individual is also disclosed.

Abstract: A novel method cutting textile material into garment-pattern shaped pieces using thin paper sheet pattern pieces utilizing magnetic objects to position and clamp the pattern pices to the textile. Further, a method of storing the cut textile is disclosed.

Abstract: A plastic pattern form for customized fitting a person, comprising plastic sheet material having basic patterns printed thereon with the pattern indicating certain reference positions and lines for accurate placement of the pattern on the person together with indicated darts and seams ordinarily designed to go with the size pattern, and numbers indicating possible figure variations from the norm that will require size changes within the body of the pattern itself rather than at the seam lines; and a method of providing customized fitting utilizing said plastic pattern form, which comprises the steps of, attaching tapes to the figure being fitted including a chest tape extending around the figure and through the underarm areas, a waist tape extending around the waistline and a hip tape extending around the hips and through the high round areas of the seat, measuring the horizontal and vertical distances from reference points and the tapes to indicate distances to seam lines, laying said measurements plus stand