COSMETIC METHOD FOR TREATING HUMAN PERSPIRATION USING PARTICLES OF AN EXPANDED AMORPHOUS MINERAL MATERIAL; COMPOSITIONS
The invention relates to a cosmetic method for treating perspiration and, optionally, the body odours related to human perspiration, in particular underarm odours, an effective amount of particles of an expanded amorphous mineral material or of a composition containing said particles, and more particularly containing expanded perlite particles. The subject of the present invention is also a cosmetic method for treating perspiration and, optionally, the body odours related to human perspiration, in particular underarm odours, an effective amount of particles of a composition containing, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier, at least said particles and at least one antiperspirant salt or complex. The subject of the present invention is also a composition containing, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier, at least said particles and at least one antiperspirant salt or complex. The subject of the present invention is also an anhydrous solid composition in the form of a stick, characterized in that it comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier: (i) more than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of expanded mineral particles as defined above; and (ii) at least one fatty phase comprising at least one volatile oil and/or at least one non-volatile oil and a structuring agent.
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The invention relates to a cosmetic method for treating perspiration and, optionally, body odours related to human perspiration, in particular underarm odours, an effective amount of particles of an expanded amorphous mineral material or of a composition containing said particles, and more particularly of expanded perlite particles.
In the cosmetics field, it is well known to use, in topical application, antiperspirant products containing substances that have the effect of limiting or even suppressing the flow of sweat. These products are generally available in the form of roll-ons, sticks, aerosols or sprays.
Metal salts of this type are effective as an antiperspirant active agent, but some individuals find that the application of such products leads to skin irritation. Furthermore, aluminium salts block a part of perspiration by forming a partial plug in the sweat duct, which gives the consumer the impression of an unnatural perspiration control. In addition, they have a tendency to leave traces on clothing.
With the aim of obtaining a more natural control of perspiration, it has already been proposed to limit the feeling of wetness during the day by using perspiration-absorbing inorganic or organic fillers.
In patent GB 1485373, it has been proposed to use the following as moisture absorbents:
-
- particles of water-soluble polymers of natural origin, such as carraghenates, starches, guar gum, agar, low pectin esters, furcellaran, gelatin, xanthan gum, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, sodium carboxymethylcellulose, or mixtures thereof;
- particles of synthetic water-soluble polymers, such as polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinylpyrrolidone, polyethylene oxides, carboxyvinyl polymers, copolymers of methyl vinyl ether and maleic anhydride, linear ionenes, or mixtures thereof;
- particles of water-insoluble polymers of natural origin, such as mixtures of sodium alginate and calcium alginate, crosslinked dextrans, modified celluloses, alginic acid, calcium alginate, pregelatinized starches, modified starches, starch-hydrolyzed polyacrylonitrile graft copolymers, or mixtures thereof;
- particles of synthetic water-insoluble polymers, such as crosslinked polyacrylamides, crosslinked poly(acrylic acid)s, crosslinked polyhydroxy-methacrylates, crosslinked polyvinyl alcohols, crosslinked polyvinylpyrrolidones, sulphonated polystyrenes crosslinked with divinylbenzene, polyvinylpyridine crosslinked with divinylbenzene, crosslinked ionenes, or mixtures thereof.
Such compositions have also been described in application WO 05/102264.
In patents GB 2003730 and U.S. Pat. No. 4,508,705, it has been proposed in particular to use particles of moisture-absorbent polymers (gelatinized crosslinked starches) having a water absorption coefficient of at least 2, combined with surfactants having a melting point of from 30 to 75° C. and an organic solvent which partially solubilizes the polymer; the aim being to replace aluminium salts. U.S. Pat. No. 4,743,440 describes particles of modified cellulose used in place of or in combination with aluminium salts.
In patent GB 2067404, hydrocolloids such as, for example, polysaccharides modified with acrylic derivatives, acrylamide, acrylonitrile, or PVA, or crosslinked acrylic polymers (Permasorb 30) have been recommended as moisture absorbents.
Application WO 05/44213 describes solid antiperspirant compositions based on superabsorbent polymers of the grafted starch type, such as Water lock superabsorbent C200. This type of polymer can be combined with sesquiterpene, with zinc oxide and with a volatile silicone.
In applications EP 1258290, EP 1561455 and EP 1561456, it has been proposed to use silicone-grafted hydrophilic polymers capable of swelling in the presence of water while at the same time having a dry feel due to the coating with silicones.
Application EP 1338268 also describes deodorant compositions combining a dialkyl carbonate with moisture absorbents such as starches, silicates or talc. However, the anti-wetness effectiveness and the cosmetic properties obtained with these compositions are not yet entirely satisfactory. Some moisture-absorbing polymers have a tendency to form dry pellets under the arm after application.
There remains therefore the need to search for new formulations for the treatment of perspiration which do not have the drawbacks encountered with those known to date and which provide improved anti-wetness effectiveness and improved cosmetic properties. There is therefore a need to search for new antiperspirant active agents which can replace aluminium salts and aluminium/zirconium salts, which are effective, which can be readily formulated and which are well tolerated.
The Applicant has discovered, surprisingly, that particles constituted of a particular expanded amorphous mineral material make a good agent for treating perspiration and can be readily formulated in many products for use in reducing perspiration, without it being necessary to use conventional astringent salts.
Surprisingly, the Applicant has discovered that the use of particles constituted of an expanded amorphous mineral material comprising at least two elements chosen from silicon, aluminium and magnesium makes it possible to achieve this objective.
The Applicant has also discovered, in particular, that the use of particles of an expanded amorphous mineral material derived from at least one volcanic rock makes it possible to solve the technical problem mentioned above.
The Applicant has discovered more particularly that the use of particles of expanded perlite makes it possible to achieve this objective.
Antiperspirant products are generally provided in the form of an oil/water or water/oil emulsion, or in the form of aqueous or anhydrous sticks, of gels or of aerosols.
Among the roll-ons or the creams available on the antiperspirant product market, three major types of formulation exist: anhydrous or soft solid formulations, water-in-oil emulsions and oil-in-water emulsions. The soft solid anhydrous formulations and the water-in-oil emulsions, which are carriers comprising a continuous oily phase, have the drawback of producing a greasy feel on application.
The antiperspirant compositions currently on the market have the following drawbacks:
a) a wet effect on application that can lead to product transfer on contact with clothing and which is due to drying being too slow;
b) a tacky effect due to the presence of antiperspirant salts which are in the dissolved state in the aqueous phase. This feeling of tackiness and this drying time which is too long are often linked to a feeling of stickiness approaching the feeling of perspiration;
c) a greasy effect due to the presence of oils.
There also remains the need to search for new formulations for the treatment of perspiration, the drying time of which is substantially more rapid and the tacky effect of which is substantially reduced.
In order to solve this technical problem, it has already been proposed, in patent EP 1584330, to use micronized waxes, in particular of polyethylene, having a particle size of less than 50 μm and a melting point above 80° C.
In application US 20040076699, it has been proposed to use bismuth oxychloride, in an aluminium-salt-based composition, in order to give the carrier a dry feeling and a silky effect on the skin. However, bismuth oxychloride is a white pigment, application of which to the armpits should be avoided.
The Applicant has also discovered, surprisingly, that, by combining particles constituted of an expanded mineral material, as described above, with an antiperspirant salt or complex, antiperspirant formulations making it possible to achieve these objectives are obtained.
A subject of the present invention is therefore a cosmetic method for treating perspiration and, optionally, the body odours related to human perspiration, in particular underarm odours, an effective amount of particles of an expanded amorphous mineral material or a composition containing said particles in a cosmetically acceptable carrier, and more particularly of expanded perlite particles.
A subject of the present invention is also a cosmetic method for treating perspiration and, optionally, the body odours related to human perspiration, especially underarm odours, an effective amount of particles of a composition containing, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier, at least said particles and at least one antiperspirant salt or complex.
A subject of the present invention is also a composition containing, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier, at least said particles and at least one antiperspirant salt or complex.
A subject of the present invention is also an anhydrous solid composition in the form of a stick, characterized in that it comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier:
(i) more than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of expanded mineral particles as defined above; and
(ii) at least one fatty phase comprising at least one volatile oil and/or at least one non-volatile oil and a structuring agent.
Other subjects of the invention will appear in the subsequent description.
The term “cosmetically acceptable” is intended to mean compatible with the skin and/or its appendages, which has a pleasant colour, odour and feel and which does not create unacceptable discomfort (tingling, tautness, redness), that may discourage the consumer from using this composition.
The term “agent for treating perspiration” is intended to mean any substance which, by itself, has the effect of reducing the feeling of wetness, linked to human sweat, on the skin, or of masking human sweat.
For the purpose of the invention, the term “mineral material” is intended to mean any material constituted of inorganic substances.
The term “amorphous” is intended to mean any material comprising less than 10% by weight of crystalline phase, and preferably less than 5% by weight of crystalline phase, or which is even completely noncrystalline and does not have an ordered atomic structure.
The term “expanded material” is intended to mean any material having an untamped apparent density at 25° C. ranging from 10 to 400 kg/m3 (DIN Standard 53468). This density may in particular be the result of a treatment by means of a thermal process, in particular at a temperature ranging from 700 to 1500° C., and preferably from 800 to 1100° C.
Expanded Amorphous Mineral Material
The expanded amorphous mineral material in accordance with the invention contains at least two elements chosen from silicon, aluminium and magnesium.
The expanded mineral material derived from at least one volcanic rock in accordance with the present invention generally contains, in its composition, at least two elements chosen from silicon, aluminium and magnesium. It is generally obtained by thermal expansion of a volcanic rock comprising from 1% to 10% by weight of water, and preferably from 1% to 5% by weight of water, and less than 10% by weight of crystalline rock, relative to the total weight of the composition of the rock, preferably followed by milling. The temperature of the expansion process can range from 700 to 1500° C., and preferably from 800 to 1100° C. The expansion process described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,002,698 can in particular be used.
Volcanic or “effusive” rocks are generally produced by rapid cooling of the magmatic liquid on contact with air or water (immersion phenomenon giving hyaline rock). The volcanic rocks that can be used according to the present invention are chosen from those defined according to the Streckeisen classification (1974).
Among these volcanic rocks, mention may in particular be made of trachytes, latites, andesites, basalts, rhyolites and dacites. Use will more particularly be made of rhyolites and dacites, and even more particularly of rhyolites.
According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the particles of expanded amorphous mineral material have an expansion coefficient of from 2 to 70.
Preferably, the particles of expanded amorphous mineral material have an untamped density at 25° C. ranging from 10 to 400 kg/m3 (DIN Standard 53468).
According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the particles of expanded amorphous mineral material have a spontaneous pH measured at 25° C., in a dispersion in water at 10% by weight, ranging from 6 to 8.
According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the particles of expanded amorphous mineral material have a silica content of greater than or equal to 65% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of the material.
According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the particles of expanded amorphous mineral material have a particle size defined by a median diameter D50 ranging from 0.5 to 50 μm, and preferably from 0.5 to 40 μm.
Preferably, the particles of expanded amorphous mineral material have a platelet shape.
According to one particular form of the invention, particles of expanded perlite will be chosen as particles of an expanded amorphous material.
The perlites that can be used according to the invention are generally aluminosilicates of volcanic origin and have the composition:
70.0-75.0% by weight of silica SiO2
12.0-15.0% by weight of aluminium oxide Al2O3
3.0-5.0% of sodium oxide Na2O
3.0-5.0% of potassium oxide K2O
0.5-2% of iron oxide Fe2O3→
0.2-0.7% of magnesium oxide MgO
0.5-1.5% of calcium oxide CaO
0.05-0.15% of titanium oxide TiO2
The perlite is milled, dried, and then graded in a first step. The product obtained, termed Perlite Ore, is grey in colour and of the order of 100 μm in size.
The Perlite Ore is then expanded (1000° C./2 seconds) so as to give particles that are more or less white. When the temperature reaches 850-900° C., the water trapped in the structure of the material vaporizes and causes expansion of the material relative to its initial volume. The expanded perlite particles in accordance with the invention can be obtained by means of the expansion process described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,002,698.
Preferably, the perlite particles used will be milled; in this case, they are termed expanded milled perlite (EMP). They preferably have a particle size defined by a median diameter D50 ranging from 0.5 to 50 μm, and preferably from 0.5 to 40 μm.
Preferably, the perlite particles used have an untamped apparent density at 25° C. ranging from 10 to 400 kg/m3 (DIN Standard 53468), and preferably from 10 to 300 kg/m3.
Preferably, the particles of expanded perlite according to the invention have a water absorption capacity, measured at the Wet Point, ranging from 200% to 1500%, and preferably from 250% to 800%.
The Wet Point corresponds to the amount of water that must be added to 1 g of particle in order to obtain a homogeneous paste. This method derives directly from the oil uptake method applied to solvents. The measurements are carried out in the same way by means of the Wet Point and of the Flow Point having, respectively, the following definition:
Wet Point: mass, expressed in grams per 100 g of product, corresponding to the obtaining of a homogeneous paste when a solvent is added to a powder.
Flow Point: mass, expressed in grams per 100 g, of product starting from which the amount of solvent is greater than the capacity of the powder to retain it. This is reflected by a more or less homogeneous mixture that flows on the glass plate being obtained.
The Wet Point and the Flow Point are measured according to the following protocol:
Protocol for Measuring Water Absorption:
1) Material Used
Glass plate (25×25 mm)
Spatula (wooden handle and metal part (15×2.7 mm)
Brush with silk hairs
Balance
2) Procedure
The glass plate is placed on the balance and 1 g of perlite particles is weighed out. The beaker containing the solvent and also the sampling liquipipette (squeezable plastic pipette) are placed on the balance. The solvent is gradually added to the powder, the whole being mixed regularly (every 3 to 4 drops) using the spatula. The mass of solvent required to obtain the Wet Point is noted. The solvent is again added and the mass required to reach the Flow Point is noted. The mean over 3 tests will be established.
The particles of expanded perlite that are sold under the trade names Optimat 1430 OR or Optimat 2550 by the company World Minerals will in particular be used.
The amount of particles of expanded amorphous mineral used according to the invention may advantageously represent from 1% to 100%, and in particular from 5% to 60%, by weight, of the total weight of the composition.
Galenical Forms
The composition according to the invention may be in any of the galenical forms conventionally used for topical application, and in particular in the form of aqueous gels, aqueous solutions or aqueous-alcoholic solutions. Through the addition of a fatty or oily phase, they may also be in the form of dispersions of the lotion type, of emulsions of liquid or semi-liquid consistency of the milk type, obtained by dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O/W), or conversely (W/O), or of suspensions or emulsions of soft, semi-solid or solid consistency of the cream or gel type, or alternatively of multiple emulsions (W/O/W or O/W/O), of microemulsions, of vesicular dispersions of ionic and/or nonionic type, or of wax/aqueous phase dispersions. These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.
The invention also relates to compositions packaged in pressurized form in an aerosol device or in a pump-dispenser bottle; packaged in a device fitted with a perforated wall, in particular a grille; or packaged in a roll-on device; characterized in that they contain at least particles of perlite as defined above. In this regard, they contain the ingredients generally used in products of this type, which are well known to those skilled in the art.
The compositions according to the invention intended for cosmetic use may comprise at least one aqueous phase. They are in particular formulated as aqueous lotions, or as a water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion, or as a multiple emulsion (oil-in-water-in-oil or water-in-oil-in-water triple emulsion (such emulsions are known and described, for example, by C. Fox in “Cosmetics and Toiletries”, November 1986, Vol. 101, pages 101-112)).
Aqueous Phase
The aqueous phase of said compositions contains water and, in general, other water-soluble or water-miscible solvents. The water-soluble or water-miscible solvents include short-chain monoalcohols, for example of C1-C4, such as ethanol or isopropanol; diols or polyols, such as ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether and sorbitol. Propylene glycol, glycerol and propane-1,3-diol will more particularly be used.
Emulsifiers
a) Oil-in-Water Emulsifiers
As emulsifiers that may be used in the oil-in-water emulsions or oil-in-water-in-oil triple emulsions, mention may, for example, be made of nonionic emulsifiers such as oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated) fatty acid esters of glycerol; oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) fatty acid esters; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) fatty alcohol ethers; sugar esters such as sucrose stearate; and mixtures thereof such as the mixture of glyceryl stearate and PEG-40 stearate.
Mention may also be made of the fatty alcohol/alkylpolyglycoside emulsifier mixtures as described in applications WO 92/06778, WO 95/13863 and WO 98/47610, such as the commercial products sold by the company SEPPIC under the name Montanov®.
b) Water-In-Oil Emulsifiers
Among the emulsifiers that can be used in the water-in-oil emulsions or water-in-oil-in-water-in-oil triple emulsions or triple emulsions, mention may, by way of example, be made of the alkyl dimethicone copolyols corresponding to formula (I) below:
in which:
R1 denotes a C12-C20, and preferably C12-C18, linear or branched alkyl group;
R2 denotes the group: —CnH2n—(—OC2H4—)x—(—OC3H6—)y—O—R3;
R3 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 1 to 12 carbon atoms;
a is an integer ranging from 1 to approximately 500;
b denotes an integer ranging from 1 to approximately 500;
n is an integer ranging from 2 to 12, and preferably 2 to 5;
x denotes an integer ranging from 1 to approximately 50, and preferably from 1 to 30;
y denotes an integer ranging from 0 to approximately 49, and preferably from 0 to 29, with the proviso that, when y is different from zero, the ratio x/y is greater than 1, and preferably ranges from 2 to 11.
Among the preferred alkyl dimethicone copolyol emulsifiers of formula (I), mention will more particularly be made of Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone, and more particularly the mixture Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone and Dimethicone (INCI name), for instance the product sold under the trade name Abil EM90 by the company Goldschmidt, or else the (Polyglyceryl-4-Stearate and Cetyl PEG/PPG-10 (and) Dimethicone (and) Hexyl Laurate) mixture, for instance the product sold under the trade name Abil WE09 by the same company.
Among the water-in-oil emulsifiers, mention may also be made of the dimethicone copolyols corresponding to formula (II) below:
in which:
R4 denotes the group: —CmH2m—(—OC2H4—)s—(—OC3H6—)t—O—R5;
R5 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 1 to 12 carbon atoms;
c is an integer ranging from 1 to approximately 500;
d denotes an integer ranging from 1 to approximately 500;
m is an integer ranging from 2 to 12, and
preferably 2 to 5;
s denotes an integer ranging from 1 to approximately 50, and preferably from 1 to 30;
t denotes an integer ranging from 0 to approximately 50, and preferably from 0 to 30;
with the proviso that the sum s+t is greater than or equal to 1.
Among these preferred dimethicone copolyol emulsifiers of formula (II), use will particularly be made of PEG-18/PPG-18 Dimethicone, and more particularly the Cyclopentasiloxane (and) PEG-18/PPG-18 Dimethicone mixture (INCI name), such as the product sold by the company Dow Corning under the trade name Silicone DC 5225 C, or KF-6040 from the company Shin Etsu.
According to one particularly preferred embodiment, a mixture of at least one emulsifier of formula (I) and at least one emulsifier of formula (II) will be used.
Use will more particularly be made of a mixture of PEG-18/PPG-18 Dimethicone and Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone, and even more particularly a mixture of (Cyclopentasiloxane (and) PEG-18/PPG-18 Dimethicone) and of Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone and Dimethicone or of (Polyglyceryl-4-stearate and Cetyl PEG/PPG-10 (and) Dimethicone (and) Hexyl Laurate).
Among the water-in-oil emulsifiers, mention may also be made of nonionic emulsifiers derived from a fatty acid and from a polyol, alkylpolyglycosides (APGs), sugar esters, and mixtures thereof.
As nonionic emulsifiers derived from a fatty acid and from a polyol, use may in particular be made of fatty acid esters of a polyol, the fatty acid having in particular a C8-C24 alkyl chain, and the polyols being, for example, glycerol and sorbitan.
As fatty acid esters of a polyol, mention may in particular be made of isostearic acid esters of polyols, stearic acid esters of polyols, and mixtures thereof, in particular isostearic acid esters of glycerol and/or of sorbitan.
As stearic acid esters of polyols, mention may in particular be made of polyethylene glycol esters, for instance PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel P135 by the company ICI.
As glycerol and/or sorbitan esters, mention may, for example, be made of polyglycerol isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Isolan GI 34 by the company Goldschmidt; sorbitan isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 987 by the company ICI; glycerol sorbitan isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 986 by the company ICI; the mixture of sorbitan isostearate and polyglycerol isostearate (3 mol) sold under the name Arlacel 1690 by the company Uniqema, and mixtures thereof.
The emulsifier may also be chosen from alkylpolyglycosides having an HLB of less than 7, for example those represented by general formula (I) below:
R—O-(G)x (1)
in which R represents a branched and/or unsaturated alkyl radical containing from 14 to 24 carbon atoms, G represents a reduced sugar containing from 5 to 6 carbon atoms, and x denotes a value ranging from 1 to 10, and preferably from 1 to 4, and G denotes in particular glucose, fructose or galactose.
The unsaturated alkyl radical may comprise one or more ethylenic unsaturations, and in particular one or two ethylenic unsaturations.
As alkylpolyglycosides of this type, mention may be made of alkylpolyglucosides (G=glucose in formula (1)), and in particular the compounds of formula (1) in which R represents more particularly an oleyl radical (unsaturated C18 radical) or an isostearyl radical (saturated C18 radical), G denotes glucose, x is a value ranging from 1 to 2, in particular isostearylglucoside, oleylglucoside and mixtures thereof. This alkylpolyglucoside may be used as a mixture with a coemulsifier, more especially with a fatty alcohol, and in particular a fatty alcohol having the same fatty chain as that of the alkylpolyglucoside, i.e. containing from 14 to 24 carbon atoms, and having a branched and/or unsaturated chain, and for example isostearyl alcohol when the alkylpolyglucoside is isostearylglucoside, and oleyl alcohol when the alkylpolyglucoside is oleylglucoside, optionally in the form of a self-emulsifying composition, as described, for example, in document WO-A-92/06778. The mixture of isostearylglucoside and isostearyl alcohol sold under the name Montanov WO 18 by the company SEPPIC, and also the octyldodecanol and octyldodecylxyloside mixture sold under the name Fludanov 20X by the company SEPPIC, may, for example, be used.
Mention may also be made of polyolefins with a succinic end group, such as polyisobutylenes with an esterified succinic end group and salts thereof, in particular the diethanolamine salts, such as the products sold under the names Lubrizol 2724, Lubrizol 2722 and Lubrizol 5603 by the company Lubrizol or the commercial product Chemcinnate 2000.
The total amount of emulsifiers in the composition will preferably, in the composition according to the invention, be at contents with respect to active material ranging from 1% to 8% by weight, and more particularly from 2% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to another particular form of the invention, the compositions according to the invention may be anhydrous.
The term “anhydrous composition” is intended to mean a composition containing less than 2% by weight of water, or even less than 0.5% by weight of water, and in particular free of water, the water not being added during the preparation of the composition, but corresponding to the residual water provided by the ingredients mixed.
According to another particular subject of the invention, the compositions of the invention are anhydrous solid compositions in the form of a stick, characterized in that they comprise, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier:
(i) more than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of expanded mineral particles as defined above; and
(ii) at least one fatty phase comprising at least one volatile oil and/or at least one non-volatile oil and a structuring agent.
The term “solid composition” is intended to mean that the measurement of the maximum force measured by texturometry during insertion of a probe down into the formulation sample should be at least equal to 0.25 newton, in particular at least equal to 0.30 newton, especially at least equal to 0.35 newton, assessed under precise measuring conditions as follows.
The formulations are hot-cast into pots 4 cm in diameter and 3 cm deep. Cooling is at ambient temperature. The hardness of the formulations prepared is measured after a standing period of 24 hours. The pots containing the samples are characterized by texturometry using a texturometer such as that sold by the company Rheo TA-XT2, according to the following protocol: a probe of steel bead type, 5 mm in diameter, is brought into contact with the sample at a speed of 1 mm/s. The measuring system detects the interface with the sample with a detection threshold equal to 0.005 newton. The probe is pushed down 0.3 mm into the sample, at a speed of 0.1 mm/s. The measuring apparatus records the change in compression force measured over time, during the penetration phase. The hardness of the sample corresponds to the average of the maximum values of the force detected during the penetration, over at least 3 measurements.
According to one particular form of the invention, the compositions for treating perspiration according to the invention may also be in the form of a loose or compacted powder.
Fatty Phase
The compositions according to the invention may contain at least one water-immiscible organic liquid phase, called fatty phase. The latter comprises, in general, one or more hydrophobic compounds which render said phase water-immiscible. Said phase is liquid (in the absence of structuring agent) at ambient temperature (20-25° C.). Preferably, the water-immiscible organic liquid phase in accordance with the invention generally comprises at least one volatile oil and/or one non-volatile oil and, optionally, at least one structuring agent.
The term “oil” is intended to mean a fatty substance which is liquid at ambient temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 105 Pa). The oil may be volatile or non-volatile.
For the purpose of the invention, the term “volatile oil” is intended to mean an oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or with the keratin fibre in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oils of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils which are liquid at ambient temperature and which have a non-zero vapour pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10−3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).
The term “non-volatile oil” is intended to mean an oil which remains on the skin or the keratin fibre at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and which has in particular a vapour pressure of less than 10−3 mmHg (0.13 Pa).
The oil may be chosen from any of the physiologically acceptable, and in particular cosmetically acceptable, oils, especially mineral, animal, plant or synthetic oils; in particular, volatile or non-volatile, hydrocarbon-based and/or silicone and/or fluoro oils and mixtures thereof.
More specifically, the term “hydrocarbon-based oil” is intended to mean an oil comprising mainly carbon and hydrogen atoms and, optionally, one or more functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether and carboxylic functions. Generally, the oil has a viscosity of from 0.5 to 100 000 mPa·s, preferably from to 50 000 mPa·s, and more preferably from 100 to 30 000 mPa·s.
By way of example of a volatile oil that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of:
-
- volatile hydrocarbon-based oils chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane or isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permethyls, C8-C16 branched esters, isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Other volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell Solt by the company Shell, may also be used; volatile linear alkanes such as those described in patent application DE 10 2008 012 457 from the company Cognis;
- volatile silicones, for instance volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity ≦8 centistokes (8×10−6 m2/s), and having in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil that can be used in the invention, mention may in particular be made of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane;
- and mixtures thereof.
Mention may also be made of the linear volatile alkyltrisiloxane oils of general formula (I):
where R represents an alkyl group containing from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, and one or more hydrogen atoms of which may be substituted with a fluorine or chlorine atom.
Among the oils of general formula (I), mention may be made of:
- 3-butyl-1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane,
- 3-propyl-1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane, and
- 3-ethyl-1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane, corresponding to the oils of formula (I) for which R is, respectively, a butyl group, a propyl group or an ethyl group.
By way of example of a non-volatile oil that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of:
-
- hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene;
- plant hydrocarbon-based oils, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, such as heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or else wheat germ oil, olive oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, marrow oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, saffron oil, candlenut oil, passion flower oil, musk rose oil, sunflower oil, maize oil, soybean oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, caster oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil or Shea butter;
- linear or branched hydrocarbons of inorganic or synthetic origin, such as liquid paraffins and derivatives thereof, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, polybutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parleam, or squalane;
- synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;
- synthetic esters, in particular of fatty acids, such as oils of formula R1COOR2 in which R1 represents a linear or branched higher fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents an in particular branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, with R1+R2≧10, for instance purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, tridecyl trimellitate; alkyl or polyalkyl octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, fatty alcohol heptanoates, octanoates and decanoates; polyol esters such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate or diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrytyl tetraisostearate;
- fatty alcohols that are liquid at ambient temperature, comprising a branched and/or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol or oleyl alcohol;
- higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid;
- carbonates;
- acetates;
- citrates;
- fluoro oils, optionally partially hydrocarbon-based and/or silicon-based, such as fluorosilicon oils, fluorinated polyethers or fluorinated silicones, as described in document EP-A-847752;
- silicon oils, such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) which are non-volatile and linear or cyclic; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups which are pendant or at the end of the silicone chain, said groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenylated silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes or 2-(phenylethyl)trimethylsiloxysilicates, and
- mixtures thereof.
Structuring Agent
The compositions according to the invention comprising a fatty phase may also contain at least one structuring agent for said fatty phase which may be chosen preferably from waxes, pasty compounds, inorganic or organic lipophilic gelling agents, and mixtures thereof.
It is understood that the amount of these compounds may be adjusted by those skilled in the art in such a way as to not be detrimental to the desired effect in the context of the present invention.
Wax(es)
Wax is, in general, a lipophilic compound which is solid at ambient temperature (25° C.), which has a reversible solid/liquid change in state and which has a melting point of greater than or equal to 30° C., which can go up to 200° C. and in particular up to 120° C.
In particular, the waxes suitable for the invention may have a melting point of greater than or equal to 45° C., and in particular greater than or equal to 55° C.
For the purpose of the invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed by thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO Standard 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name “MDSC 2920” by the company TA Instruments.
The measurement protocol is as follows:
A 5 mg sample of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first rise in temperature ranging from −20° C. to 100° C. at a heating rate of 10° C./minute, and is then cooled from 100° C. to −20° C. at a cooling rate of 10° C./minute and, finally, is subjected to a second rise in temperature ranging from −20° C. to 100° C. at a heating rate of 5° C./minute. During the second rise in temperature, the variation in the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the sample of wax is measured as a function of the temperature. The melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the tip of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.
The waxes that can be used in the compositions according to the invention are chosen from waxes, which are solid at ambient temperature, of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof.
By way of illustration of the waxes suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of hydrocarbon-based waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, Alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax and sumach wax; montane wax, orange and lemon waxes, the refined sunflower wax sold under the name Sunflower Wax by Koster Keunen, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerites; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fischer Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, and also esters thereof.
Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils containing linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains. Among these, mention may in particular be made of isomerized jojoba oil such as the trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or sold by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, and the di-(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company Heterene.
Mention may also be made of silicone waxes (C30-45 Alkyl Dimethicone) and fluoro waxes.
Use may also be made of the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company Sophim. Such waxes are described in application FR-A-2792190.
Use may be made, as wax, of a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group containing from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture.
Such a wax is in particular sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P®, Hydroxypolyester K 82 P® and Kester Wax K 80 P® by the company Koster Keunen.
As microwaxes that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may in particular be made of carnauba microwaxes such as the product sold under the name MicroCare 350® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes of synthetic wax, such as the product sold under the name MicroEase 114S® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as those sold under the names MicroCare 300® and 310® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture of carnauba wax and of synthetic wax, such as the product sold under the name MicroCare 325® by the company Micro Powders, polyethylene microwaxes such as those sold under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company Micro Powders, the commercial products Performalene 400 Polyethylene and Performalene 500-L Polyethylene from New Phase Technologies, Performalene 655 Polyethylene or paraffin waxes such as the wax having the INCI name Microcristalline Wax and Synthetic Wax and sold under the trade name Microlease by the company Sochibo; polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes such as those sold under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company Micro Powders.
The composition according to the invention will preferably comprise a content of wax(es) ranging from 3% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 5% to 15%, more particularly from 6% to 15%.
According to one particular embodiment of the invention, in the context of the anhydrous solid compositions in the form of a stick, use will be made of polyethylene microwaxes in the form of crystallites having a shape factor at least equal to 2 and having a melting point ranging from 70 to 110° C., and preferably 70 to 100° C., in order to reduce or even eliminate the presence of strata in the solid composition.
These needle-shaped crystallites, and in particular the dimensions thereof, can be characterized visually according to the following method.
The wax is deposited on a microscope slide, which is placed on a heated platform. The slide and the wax are heated to a temperature which is generally at least 5° C. above that of the melting point of the wax or of the wax mixture under consideration. At the end of the melting, the liquid thus obtained and the microscope slide are left to cool in order to solidify. The crystallites are observed using a Leica DMLB100 optical microscope, with an objective selected according to the size of the objects to be visualized, and by polarized light. The dimensions of the crystallites are measured using image analysis software, such as the software sold by the company Microvision.
The crystallite polyethylene waxes in accordance with the invention preferably have an average length ranging from 5 to 10 μm. The term “average length” denotes the dimension given by the statistical particle size distribution to half the population, referred to as D50.
Use will more particularly be made of a mixture of Performalene 400 Polyethylene and Performalene 500-L Polyethylene waxes from New Phase Technologies.
Pasty Compounds
For the purpose of the present invention, the term “pasty compound” is intended to mean a lipophilic fatty compound that undergoes a reversible solid/liquid change of state, that has an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state, and that comprises, at a temperature of 23° C., a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
The pasty compound is preferably chosen from synthetic compounds and compounds of plant origin. A pasty compound may be obtained by synthesis from starting products of plant origin.
The pasty compound may advantageously be chosen from:
-
- lanolin and derivatives thereof,
- silicone compounds, which may or may not be polymers,
- fluoro compounds, which may or may not be polymers,
- vinylpolymers, in particular:
- olefin homopolymers,
- olefin copolymers,
- hydrogenated diene homopolymers and copolymers,
- linear or branched oligomers, which are homopolymers or copolymers of alkyl(meth)acrylates preferably containing a C8-C30 alkyl group,
- oligomers, which are homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl esters containing C8-C30 alkyl groups, and
- oligomers, which are homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl ethers containing C8-C30 alkyl groups,
- liposoluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherification between one or more C2-C100, preferably C2-C50, diols,
- esters,
- and mixtures thereof.
Among the esters that are in particular preferred are:
-
- esters of a glycerol oligomer, especially diglycerol esters, in particular condensates of adipic acid and of glycerol, for which some of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid and isostearic acid, and 12-hydroxystearic acid, in particular such as those sold under the trade mark Softisan 649 by the company Sasol,
- arachidyl propionate sold under the trade mark Waxenol 801 by Alzo,
- phytosterol esters,
- fatty acid triglycerides and derivatives thereof,
- pentaerythritol esters,
- noncrosslinked polyesters resulting from polycondensation between a linear or branched C4-C50 dicarboxylic acid or polycarboxylic acid and a C2-C50 diol or polyol,
- aliphatic esters of an ester resulting from the esterification of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester with an aliphatic carboxylic acid,
- polyesters resulting from the esterification, with a polycarboxylic acid, of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester, said ester comprising at least two hydroxyl groups, such as the products Risocast DA-H® and Risocast DA-L®,
- esters of a diol dimer and of a diacid dimer, where appropriate esterified on their free alcohol or acid function(s) with acid or alcohol radicals, such as Plandool-G,
- and mixtures thereof.
Among the pasty compounds of plant origin, a mixture of soybean sterols and of oxyethylenated (5 EO) oxypropylenated (5 PO) pentaerythritol, sold under the reference Lanolide by the company Vevy, will preferably be chosen.
Lipophilic Gelling Agents
Mineral Gelling Agents
As mineral lipophilic gelling agent, mention may be made of optionally modified clays such as hectorites modified with a C10 to C22 ammonium chloride, for instance hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride, such as, for example, the product sold under the name Bentone 38V® by the company Elementis.
Mention may also be made of fumed silica, optionally hydrophobically surface-treated, the particle size of which is less than 1 μm. It is in fact possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica, by chemical reaction generating a decrease in the number of silanol groups present at the surface of the silica. It is in particular possible to replace the silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained. The hydrophobic groups may be trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are in particular obtained by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas treated in this way are called “Silica Silylate” according to the CTFA (8th Edition, 2000). They are, for example, sold under the references Aerosil R812® by the company Degussa, Cab-O-Sil TS-530® by the company Cabot; dimethylsilyloxyl groups or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are in particular obtained by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or of dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas treated in this way are called “Silica dimethyl silylate” according to the CTFA (8th Edition, 2000). They are, for example, sold under the references Aerosil R972® and Aerosil R974® by the company Degussa, and Cab-O-Sil TS-610® and Cab-O-Sil TS-720® by the company Cabot.
The hydrophobic fumed silica has in particular a particle size that may be nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging approximately from 5 to 200 nm.
Organic Gelling Agents
The polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents are, for example, partially or totally crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes having a three-dimensional structure, such as those sold under the names KSG6®, KSG16® and KSG18® by the company Shin-Etsu, Trefil E-505C® and Trefil E-506C® by the company Dow Corning, Gransil SR-CYC®, SR DMF 108, SR-DC556®, SR 5CYC Gel®, SR DMF 10 Gel® and SR DC 556 Gel® by the company Grant Industries, and SF 1204® and JK 113® by the company General Electric; ethylcellulose, such as the product sold under the name Ethocel® by the company Dow Chemical; galactomannans comprising from one to six, and in particular from two to four, hydroxyl groups per monosaccharide, substituted with a saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain, such as guar gum alkylated with C1 to C6, and in particular C1 to C3, alkyl chains and mixtures thereof; block copolymers of “diblock”, “triblock” or “radial” type, of the polystyrene/polyisoprene or polystyrene/polybutadiene type, such as those sold under the name Luvitol HSB® by the company BASF, of the polystyrene/copoly(ethylenepropylene) type, such as those sold under the name Kraton® by the company Shell Chemical Co, or else of the polystyrene/copoly(ethylene-butylene) type, and blends of triblock and radial (star) copolymers in isododecane, such as those sold by the company Penreco under the name Versagel®, for instance the blend of butylene/ethylene/styrene triblock copolymer and of ethylene/propylene/styrene star copolymer in isododecane (Versagel M 5960).
As lipophilic gelling agent, mention may also be made of polymers with a weight-average molecular weight of less than 100 000, comprising a) a polymeric backbone having hydrocarbon-based repeating units comprising at least one heteroatom and, optionally, b) at least one pendant fatty chain and/or at least one terminal fatty chain, which is optionally functionalized, containing from 6 to 120 carbon atoms and being linked to these hydrocarbon-based units, as described in applications WO-A-02/056847 and WO-A-02/47619, the content of which is incorporated by way of reference; in particular, polyamide resins (especially comprising alkyl groups having from 12 to carbon atoms), such as those described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,783,657, the content of which is incorporated by way of reference.
Among the lipophilic gelling agents that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may also be made of esters of dextrin and of a fatty acid, such as dextrin palmitates, in particular such as those sold under the names Rheopearl TL® or Rheopearl KL® by the company Chiba Flour.
Use may also be made of silicone polyamides of the polyorganosiloxane type, such as those described in documents U.S. Pat. No. 5,874,069, U.S. Pat. No. 5,919,441, U.S. Pat. No. 6,051,216 and U.S. Pat. No. 5,981,680. These silicone polymers may belong to the following two families:
-
- polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, these two groups being located in the polymer chain, and/or
- polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, these two groups being located on grafts or branches.
Antiperspirant Salts or Complexes
According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the compositions of the invention may contain at least one additional antiperspirant salt or complex.
The antiperspirant salts or complexes in accordance with the invention are generally chosen from aluminium and/or zirconium salts or complexes. They are preferably chosen from aluminium halohydrates; aluminium zirconium halohydrates, complexes of zirconium hydroxychloride and of aluminium hydroxychloride with or without an amino acid, such as those described in U.S. Pat. No. 3,792,068.
Among the aluminium salts, mention may in particular be made of aluminium chlorohydrate in the activated or nonactivated form, aluminium chlorohydrex, the aluminium chlorohydrex polyethylene glycol complex, the aluminium chlorohydrex propylene glycol complex, aluminium dichlorohydrate, the aluminium dichlorohydrex polyethylene glycol complex, the aluminium dichlorohydrex propylene glycol complex, aluminium sesquichlorohydrate, the aluminium sesquichlorohydrex polyethylene glycol complex, the aluminium sesquichlorohydrex propylene glycol complex, or aluminium sulphate buffered with sodium aluminium lactate.
Among the aluminium zirconium salts, mention may in particular be made of aluminium zirconium octachlorohydrate, aluminium zirconium pentachlorohydrate, aluminium zirconium tetrachlorohydrate or aluminium zirconium trichlorohydrate.
The complexes of zirconium hydroxychloride and of aluminium hydroxychloride with an amino acid are generally known under the name ZAG (when the amino acid is glycine). Among these products, mention may be made of the aluminium zirconium octachlorohydrex glycine, aluminium zirconium pentachlorohydrex glycine, aluminium zirconium tetrachlorohydrex glycine and aluminium zirconium trichlorohydrex glycine complexes.
The antiperspirant salts or complexes may be present in the composition according to the invention in a proportion of approximately 0.5% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Deodorant Active Agents
The compositions according to the invention may also contain, in addition, one or more deodorant active agents.
The deodorant active agents may be bacteriostatic agents or bactericidal agents which act on the microorganisms of underarm odours, such as 2,4,4′-trichloro-2′-hydroxydiphenyl ether (Triclosan®), 2,4-dichloro-2′-hydroxydiphenyl ether, 3′,4′,5′-trichlorosalicylanilide, 1-(3′,4′-dichlorophenyl)-3-(4′-chlorophenyl)urea (Triclocarban®) or 3,7,11-trimethyldodeca-2,5,10-trienol (Farnesol®); quaternary ammonium salts such as cetyltrimethylammonium salts or cetylpyridinium salts, DPTA (1,3-diaminopropanetetraacetic acid), 1,2-decanediol (Symclariol from the company Symrise), -glycerol derivatives such as, for example, caprylic/capric glycerides (Capmul MCM from Abitec), glycerol caprylate or caprate (Dermosoft GMCY and Dermosoft GMC respectively from Straetmans), polyglyceryl-2 caprate (Dermosoft DGMC from Straetmans), biguanide derivatives, such as polyhexamethylene biguanide salts, -chlorhexidine and its salts; 4-phenyl-4,4-dimethyl-2-butanol (Symdeo MPP from Symrise).
Among the deodorant active agents in accordance with the invention, mention may also be made of:
-
- zinc salts, such as zinc salicylate, zinc gluconate, zinc pidolate; zinc sulphate, zinc chloride, zinc lactate, zinc phenolsulphonate; zinc ricinoleate;
- sodium bicarbonate;
- salicylic acid and its derivatives such as 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid;
- silver zeolites or zeolites without silver;
- alum.
In the event of incompatibility between the active agents mentioned above, or in order to stabilize them, some of said active agents may be incorporated into spherules, in particular ionic or nonionic vesicles and/or nanoparticles (nanocapsules and/or nanospheres).
The deodorant active agents may be present preferably in the compositions according to the invention in weight concentrations ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Suspending Agents
In order to improve the homogeneity of the product, it is possible to use, in addition, one or more suspending agents which are preferably chosen from hydrophobic modified montmorillonite clays, such as hydrophobic modified bentonites or hectorites. Mention may, for example, be made of the product Stearalkonium Bentonite (CTFA name) (reaction product of bentonite and of the quaternary ammonium stearalkonium chloride), such as the commercial product sold under the name Tixogel MP 250 by the company Sud Chemie Rheologicals, United Catalysts Inc., or the product Disteardimonium Hectorite (CTFA name) (reaction product of hectorite and of distearyldimonium chloride), sold under the name Bentone 38 or Bentone Gel by the company Elementis Specialities.
The suspending agents are preferably present in amounts ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Organic Powder
According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the antiperspirant compositions according to the invention will also contain an organic powder.
In the present application, the term “organic powder” is intended to mean any solid which is insoluble in the medium at ambient temperature (25° C.)
As organic powders that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may, for example, be made of polyamide particles, and in particular those sold under the name Orgasol by the company Atochem; polyethylene powders; microspheres based on acrylic copolymers, such as those made of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer, sold by the company Dow Corning under the name Polytrap; microspheres of poly(methyl methacrylate), sold under the name Microsphere M-100 by the company Matsumoto or under the name Covabead LH85 by the company Wackherr; hollow poly(methyl methacrylate) microspheres (particle size: 6.5-10.5μ) sold under the name Ganzpearl GMP 0800 by Ganz Chemical; methyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate copolymer microbeads (size: 6.5-10.5μ) sold under the name Ganzpearl GMP 0820 by Ganz Chemical or Microsponge 5640 by the company Amcol Health & Beauty Solutions; ethylene-acrylate copolymer powders, such as those sold under the name Flobeads by the company Sumitomo Seika Chemicals; expanded powders such as hollow microspheres, and in particular the microspheres formed from a vinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile/methacrylate terpolymer and sold under the name Expancel by the company Kemanord Plast under the references 551 DE 12 (particle size of approximately 12 μm and density 40 kg/m3), 551 DE 20 (particle size of approximately 30 μm and density 65 kg/m3), and 551 DE 50 (particle size of approximately 40 μm), or the microspheres sold under the name Micropearl F 80 ED by the company Matsumoto; powders of natural organic materials, such as starch powders, in particular crosslinked or noncrosslinked maize, wheat or rice starch powders, such as the powders of starch crosslinked with octenylsuccinic anhydride, sold under the name Dry-Flo by the company National Starch; silicone resin microbeads such as those sold under the name Tospearl by the company Toshiba Silicone, in particular Tospearl 240; amino acid powders such as the lauroyllysine powder sold under the name Amihope LL-11 by the company Ajinomoto; particles of wax microdispersion, which preferably have average sizes of less than 1 μm, and in particular ranging from 0.02 μm to 1 μm, and which are essentially constituted of a wax or of a mixture of waxes, such as the products sold under the name Aquacer by the company Byk Cera, and in particular: Aquacer 520 (mixture of synthetic and natural waxes), Aquacer 514 or 513 (polyethylene wax), Aquacer 511 (polymeric wax), or such as the products sold under the name Jonwax 120 by the company Johnson Polymer (mixture of polyethylene and paraffin waxes) and under the name Ceraflour 961 by the company Byk Cera (micronized modified polyethylene wax); and mixtures thereof.
Additives
The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may also comprise cosmetic adjuvants chosen from emollients, antioxidants, opacifiers, stabilizers, moisturizers, vitamins, bactericides, preservatives, polymers, fragrances, thickeners, propellants or any other ingredient normally used in cosmetics for this type of application.
Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to select this or these optional additional compound(s) in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the cosmetic composition in accordance with the invention are not, or are not substantially, impaired by the addition(s) envisaged.
The thickeners, preferably nonionic thickeners, may be chosen from modified or nonmodified guar gums and celluloses, such as hydroxypropyl guar gum or cetylhydroxyethylcellulose, and silicas, for instance Bentone Gel MIO sold by the company NL Industries or Veegum Ultra sold by the company Polyplastic.
The thickeners may also be cationic, such as, for example, the Polyquaternium-37 sold under the name Salcare SC95 (polyquaternium-37 (and) mineral oil (and) PPG-1 trideceth-6) or Salcare SC96 (polyquaternium-37 (and) propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate (and) PPG-1-trideceth-6), or other crosslinked cationic polymers such as, for example, those having the CTFA name ethyl acrylate/dimethylamino ethyl methacrylate cationic copolymer in emulsion.
The amounts of these various constituents that may be present in the cosmetic composition according to the invention are those conventionally used in compositions for the treatment of perspiration.
Aerosols
The compositions according to the invention may also be pressurized and be packaged in an aerosol device constituted of:
(A) a container comprising an antiperspirant composition as defined above,
(B) at least one propellant and a means of dispensing said aerosol composition.
The propellants generally used in products of this type, and which are well known to those skilled in the art, are, for instance, dimethyl ether (DME), volatile hydrocarbons such as n-butane, propane or isobutane, and mixtures thereof, optionally with at least one chlorinated and/or fluorinated hydrocarbon; among the latter, mention may be made of the compounds sold by the company Dupont de Nemours under the names Freon® and Dymel®, and in particular monofluorotrichloromethane, difluorodichloromethane, tetrafluorodichloroethane and 1,1-difluoroethane, sold in particular under the trade name Dymel 152 A by the company Dupont. Carbon dioxide, nitrous oxide, nitrogen or compressed air may also be used as propellant.
The compositions containing the perlite particles as defined above and the propellant(s) may be in the same compartment or in different compartments in the aerosol container. According to the invention, the pressurized concentration of propellant generally ranges from 5% to 95% by weight, and more preferably from 50% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the pressurized composition.
The dispensing means, which forms part of the aerosol device, is generally constituted of a dispensing valve controlled by a dispensing head, itself comprising a nozzle via which the aerosol composition is vaporized. The container containing the pressurized composition may be opaque or transparent. It may be made of glass, of polymer or of metal, optionally covered with a layer of protective lacquer.
The examples which follow serve to illustrate the present invention. The amounts are given as percentage by mass relative to the total weight of the composition.
EXAMPLES 1 TO 6 Roll-OnsComparative Stickiness and Drying Test
Protocol
A texture analyser having the following characteristics is used:
Instrument: Texture Expert TA-XT2 by Rheo Presettings:
Rotor: 10 mm ebonite cylinder
Descent prerate of the rotor 2 mm/s Descent rate of the rotor 10 mm/s Ascent rate of the rotor 5 mm/s
Force exerted on the glass plate: 40 g
Displacement: 0.5 mm
Time 1.5 s
Activating force 20 g
Acquisition rate 200 pps
Each antiperspirant is applied, with a film drawer, to a glass plate. The maximum adhesive force exerted by the rotor, which corresponds to the strength of the stickiness, is measured every minute and the rotor is cleaned after each measurement.
This operation is carried out until the maximum force is zero, i.e. until completion of the drying. The drying time is determined at this precise moment.
The results of the tests are represented in FIG. 1 by the curve of variation in the strength of the stickiness as a function of time, and in the following Tables 1 and 2:
It was found that the addition of 1% of perlite to a roll-on emulsion greatly decreases the stickiness and accelerates the drying speed.
It was found that the addition of 1% perlite to a roll-on emulsion greatly decreases the stickiness (50%) and accelerates the drying speed (25% more rapid).
EXAMPLES 7 TO 9 Anhydrous AerosolsComparative Stickiness and Drying Test
The same protocol as that implemented with Examples 11 to 16 is used
The results of the tests are represented in FIG. 2 by the curve of variation in strength of the stickiness as a function of time and in Table 3 below:
It was found that the addition of 1% of perlite to a roll-on emulsion greatly decreases the stickiness (50%) and accelerates the drying speed (25% more rapid).
Procedure:
The cyclopentasiloxane is heated to 65° C. The other ingredients are added (one by one) with the temperature remaining at 65-70° C. The whole (transparent solution) is homogenized for 15 minutes. The perlite is added. The mixture is cooled to approximately 55° C. (a few ° C. above thickening of the mixture) and is cast in sticks. The resulting sticks are placed at 4° C. for 30 minutes. The stick of Example 10 exhibits some white strata. It is observed that the combination of the two polyethylene waxes Performalene 500-L polyethylene and Performalene 400 polyethylene from New Phase Technologies makes it possible to obtain a stratum-free stick containing perlite (Example 11).
Comparative Test of Antiperspirant Effectiveness Between a Perlite Stick and a Stick Containing a Superabsorbent
Procedure:
The cyclopentasiloxane is heated to 65° C. The other ingredients are added (one by one) with the temperature remaining at 65-70° C. The whole (transparent solution) is homogenized for 15 minutes. The perlite or the superabsorbent polymer is added. The mixture is cooled to approximately 55° C. (a few ° C. above thickening of the mixture) and is cast in sticks. The resulting sticks are placed at 4° C. for 30 minutes.
Effectiveness Test
The stick containing the perlite was compared with the stick containing a superabsorbent, Luquasorb 1003, by 9 individuals. The test was carried out on 5 women and 4 men. Each product was applied to the armpits for 5 days, at a rate of one application per day.
For the men, the perlite stick was preferred since it does not form dry pellets under the arms, unlike the stick containing the Luquasorb 1003 superabsorbent. For the women, it is the perlite stick which emerges as the most effective. It appears that the stick containing the perlite is more effective or more cosmetic than that containing the superabsorbent.
Comparative Test of Antiperspirant Effectiveness Between a Perlite Stick and a Stick Containing Aluminium Chlorohydrate
The procedure is identical to that of Examples 12 and 13 above.
The in vivo effectiveness of the stick according to the invention was evaluated in comparison with a conventional aluminium chlorohydrate stick.
The test is carried out on a panel of 30 women between the ages of 18 and 50 who regularly (every day) use a fragranced, opaque white antiperspirant stick.
The following criteria were evaluated:
Effectiveness against wetness
Effectiveness against perspiration odours
Traces on clothing
Overall satisfaction.
The percentages of the women in favour, respectively, of the perlite-based stick 14 and those in favour of the aluminium salt-based stick 15 were measured. The results obtained are indicated in the following table:
The Optimat® 1430 OR is dispersed in the mixture of the other starting materials by blade-mixing. A homogeneous paste is obtained.
EXAMPLE 17 Anhydrous Cream
Procedure:
The Optimat® 1430 OR is dispersed in the mixture of the other starting materials by blade-mixing. A homogeneous paste is obtained.
EXAMPLE 18 Aerosol
Procedure:
The Optimat® 1430 OR is dispersed in the mixture of the other starting materials by blade-mixing, constituting phase A. This is pressurized in an aerosol container with isobutane.
EXAMPLE 19 Anhydrous Antiperspirant Stick
Procedure:
The cyclopentasiloxane is heated to 65° C. The other ingredients are added (1 by 1) with the temperature remaining at 65-70° C. The whole is homogenized (transparent solution) for 15 minutes. The perlite is added. The mixture is cooled to approximately 55° C. (a few ° C. above thickening of the mixture) and cast in sticks. The resulting sticks are placed at 4° C. for 30 minutes.
EXAMPLE 20 Anhydrous Stick
Procedure
Phase A and phase B are introduced. The mixture is heated at 90° C. until homogenization, and sufficient stirring is performed if necessary. Phase B3 is added at 90° C. This phase may contain preservatives, active agents or other starting materials that are temperature-sensitive and that it is preferable not to heat for too long. The mixture is heated to 95° C. so as to be able to cast sticks at 91-92° C.
Claims
1. Cosmetic method for treating human perspiration and, optionally, human body odours, consisting in applying, to the surface of the skin, an effective amount of particles of an expanded amorphous mineral material comprising at least two elements chosen from silicon, aluminium and magnesium or a composition containing said particles in a cosmetically acceptable carrier.
2. Method according to claim 1, in which the expanded amorphous mineral material is derived from at least one volcanic rock.
3. Method according to claim 2, in which the expanded amorphous mineral material derived from at least one volcanic rock contains at least two elements chosen from silicon, aluminium and magnesium.
4. Method according to claim 2, in which the expanded amorphous mineral material derived from at least one volcanic rock is obtained by thermal expansion of a volcanic rock comprising from 1% to 10% by weight of water, and less than 10% by weight of crystalline rock, relative to the total weight of the composition of the rock, followed by milling.
5. Method according to claim 1, in which the particles of expanded amorphous mineral material are perlite particles.
6. Method according to claim 5, in which the perlite particles are milled and have a particle size defined by a median diameter D50 ranging from 0.5 to 50 μm.
7. Method according to claim 5, in which the amount of particles of expanded amorphous mineral used represents from 1% to 100%, of the total weight of the composition.
8. Method according to claim 1, in which the expanded mineral particles constitute the sole perspiration treatment agent.
9. Method according to claim 1, in which the composition is packaged:
- (i) in pressurized form in an aerosol device or in a pump-dispenser bottle;
- (ii) in a roll-on device;
- (iii) in a device fitted with a perforated wall, in particular a grille;
- (iv) in the form of a stick; (v) in the form of a loose or compacted powder.
10. Method according to claim 1, in which the composition also comprises at least one deodorant active agent.
11. Method according to claim 1, in which the composition also comprises at least one antiperspirant salt or complex.
12. Method according to claim 1, in which the antiperspirant salts or complexes are generally chosen from aluminium and/or zirconium salts or complexes.
13. Method according to claim 12, in which the antiperspirant salts or complexes are chosen from aluminium halohydrates; aluminium zirconium halohydrates, and complexes of zirconium hydroxychloride and of aluminium hydroxychloride with or without an amino acid.
14. Composition according to claim 11.
15. Anhydrous solid composition in the form of a stick, characterized in that it comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier:
- (i) more than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of expanded mineral particles as defined in the preceding claims; and (ii) at least one fatty phase comprising at least one volatile oil and/or at least one non-volatile oil and a structuring agent.
16. Composition according to claim 15, comprising at least one polyethylene wax or one mixture of polyethylene waxes in the form of crystallites having a shape factor at least equal to 2, having a melting point ranging from 70 to 110° C., and having an average length ranging, from 5 to 10 μm.
17. Method according to claim 4, wherein the amount of water is from 1% to 5%.
18. Method according to claim 3, in which the expanded amorphous mineral material derived from at least one volcanic rock is obtained by thermal expansion of a volcanic rock comprising from 1% to 10% by weight of water, and less than 10% by weight of crystalline rock, relative to the total weight of the composition of the rock, followed by milling.
19. Method according to claim 6, wherein the perlite particles have a particle size defined by a median diameter D50 ranging from 0.5 to 40 μm.
20. Method according to claim 7, wherein the amount of particles of expanded amorphous mineral used is from 5% to 60%, by weight of the total weight of the composition.
Type: Application
Filed: Oct 22, 2009
Publication Date: Jan 5, 2012
Applicant: L'OREAL (Paris)
Inventors: Laurence Arnaud (L'Hay Les Roses), Delphine Ribery (Paris), Matthieu Cassier (Paris), Xavier Jalenques (Gennevilliers), Jean-Louis Refregier (Conflans Ste Honorine)
Application Number: 13/129,459
International Classification: A61K 8/25 (20060101); A61Q 15/00 (20060101); A61K 8/44 (20060101); A61K 8/92 (20060101); A61K 8/26 (20060101); A61K 8/28 (20060101);
